Removal of Suburban Furnace January 13, 2026, 04:57:31 pm I needed to replace the circuit board in my furnace. Here's what I did: 1. Turn off the propane at the tank2. Pull the fuse3. Remove the cabinet door (2 hinge screws)4. Remove the front cover (2 screws)5. Remove the 2 cabinet anchor screws (the furnace is contained within the aluminum cabinet)6. Pull the cabinet out. Gotta give it pretty good jerk 7. Separate the wires from the wire nuts and label8. Remove the 1 or 2 screws that hold the furnace in the cabinet. You need a flashlight and real long screwdriver9. Pull the furnace out of the cabinet10. Put it on a table to work on it11. Reverse the process to reinstall12. Wire it back up (I used Wagos)13. Check for propane leaks and fire it up!jor* Got the circuit board from eBay for a hundred bucks. The prices are all over the board so I went with relatively inexpensive with excellent eBay rating.circuit board 11 Likes
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #1 – January 14, 2026, 09:16:37 am How was it reconnecting the exhaust and intake flues?Jon
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #2 – January 14, 2026, 09:30:08 am QuoteHow was it reconnecting the exhaust and intake flues?Easy. Just had to wiggle it a bit to get them lined up.jor 1 Likes
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #3 – January 14, 2026, 01:28:48 pm Excellent step by step. How did you determine it was a PCB issue? Thanks!!
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #4 – January 15, 2026, 09:40:09 am QuoteHow did you determine it was a PCB issue?Here's what it was doing. It would turn on and run through its cycle just like always. However, when left on to maintain temperature, it would sometimes fail to start. Turning it off and back on would return it to normal operation. I just did some youtube and AI research and figured it had to be the circuit board. While I had it on the table I just made sure all the connections were tight. Anyhow, works now! jor
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #5 – January 15, 2026, 01:51:37 pm John, did you check the motor or fan bearings while you had the unit out? Our 98~MB furnace began with whining noise at start up about five years ago but has stopped, lucky for us, a little after it started. At the time it got pretty loud, we were considering pulling the furnace but it stopped and is working now. The bearings may be sealed and not replaceable, we did not have to find out. Karen~Liam 98 ~ MB NinA
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #6 – January 16, 2026, 09:20:35 am Quotedid you check the motor or fan bearingsNo. No bearing noise. I have some experience with that though. I had a furnace starting to squeal on another rig. I fixed it for a time with a little oil and ended up replacing the motor. Cheap and easy. When you get a good look at these things, you see that they are pretty simple. Hard to justify the price the manufactures get for them.One other thing. These furnaces are inefficient and real loud. I looked for a replacement with two or three speeds or some other innovation to quiet it down but was unsuccessful. I guess the only solution is to have it installed as far away as possible! jor
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #7 – January 16, 2026, 02:40:39 pm John, I am planning on adding a Hydronic Hot water boiler system with 12v fan heat exchanges to our 98~MB. The manufacturer of Timberline is up here near Vancouver WA. They make gas or diesel fired hot water boilers for the RV industry, Winnebago Revel and others use them. I will report back here after I check their system out in person. Gas fired boiler noise would be the our biggest issue since we would be locating it in the hot water heater bay in our LD rear lounge. We would keep both systems. Karen~Liam 98 ~ MB NinA1 SERIES - Timberline Heat and Hot Water 1 Likes
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #8 – January 17, 2026, 09:49:43 am QuoteI am planning on adding a Hydronic Hot water boiler system with 12v fan heat exchanges to our 98~MBNow this is exciting! Really looking forward to your postings on this excellent upgrade. Installation is expensive so if you can do that yourself, you'll save a bundle. I've had hydronic before in other rigs (AquaHot) and it is waaaaay better than our noisy gas furnaces. You'll love it.Re the noise, the AquaHot used a Webasto burner and I remember it making a pleasing whine. jor
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #9 – January 17, 2026, 01:30:13 pm I am going to Elwell, the makers of the Timberline heating system this week. They are excited for this project, they don't know the LD brand but are excited about retro fitting a Class C motorhome. I have installed many hydronic boilers systems in homes and businesses over the years and have been waiting for someone to come up with a boiler system for RVs. There are many systems out there now but size does matter for this LD retro project. Karen~Liam 98 ~ MB NinA 1 Likes
Re: Removal of Suburban Furnace Reply #10 – January 17, 2026, 01:59:35 pm The Timberline heater, along with its associated parts., look interesting, especially its ability to provide hot water too. If removing the furnace and water heater, this would provide the room for the new equipment without significantly reducing the rig's storage.The air handler could be located inside the bench seat on the passenger side, with vents cut into the seat's baseWhat fuel do you want to burn? Gasoline would be the simplest and most dangerous. Diesel is less prone to burning but would require either an additional fuel tank or carrying one or two five gallon fuel containers. Diesel fuel is smelly, I would hate to spill any inside the rig, you would never get rid of the smell. Gasoline would probably be my choice, with the generator's fuel line being the source of fuel.The existing furnace's intake and exhaust vents may be useful for the boiler.Keep us posted on what you do, it should be a fun project.Larry 1 Likes
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Topic: Removal of Suburban Furnace (Read 444 times)
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