Advice On New Electrical Components

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Advice On New Electrical Components

August 24, 2025, 03:07:19 pm

Hello, fellow Lazy Daze Folks,

I am upgrading the converter, solar charge controller, solar panels, and switching to 500 AH Lithium batteries. I have read the numerous wonderful threads on many of these topics, but some are a bit old. I would like the expert advice/opinion available here on which converter, solar charge controller, and solar panels are the best for the money today.

I currently have the PD 4645... non-lithium, HPV22B, factory 100-watt solar (2), and two new lead acids. I am going to do the swap myself, except for the solar panels, and the potential for having to increase the wiring from the panels to prevent voltage drop. My preference would be to get the same brand converter and solar charger, but there might be better options, hence this request.

Thanks in advance!
George Worley, 2006 MB

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #1 – August 24, 2025, 03:54:13 pm

Too many opinions. You will have to do your own research. Nothing you have today is good enough.

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #2 – August 24, 2025, 05:47:54 pm

Hi George; The PD converter is good. Not being LiF jumper selectable, may not matter. It would go to bulk charge, which is good, and back off to 'float'. The batteries usually have internal BMS's that will help. The 45 Amp rating is low, but will work just fine.
   The HPV-22B has MPPT circuitry, but a top limit of 22 Amps. It's regular mode (not 'Vacation') has a 14v output that will work. A better controller would fit in the same spot (with a bezel to fit it's greater depth) is the BlueSkyEnergy RM3000i that many of us have now. It can be programmed (by pushing a few buttons) to not have 'stages' of charging, and a programmable output voltage. (mine is set to 14.4 volts). LiF doesn't need temperature compensation, so the temperature probe wires can be left unconnected. (I'm not sure if the HVP-22B has that)
The BSE 3000i can handle about 400-500W of solar, but on really sunny days, 30A is the limit. Likely you won't get that much very often.
   Batteries, need to fit your floorplan, space capacity and needs for electrical current. Inverters, toaster ovens, electric compressor refrigerators, and heavy duty 12v. air conditioners, all determine how much battery/converter/panels and Inverter you will need.
   These upgrades can be done in phases, better to have a plan in mind first, before you start. Prices for components can go up or down. Your floorplan, a MidBath, and year 2006, are a great package to work on. Many here have extensively improved that to as much a 1000W of panels (overkill?) and 800AH of batteries, 3Kw Multibus charger/(inverter)s, etc. RonB

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #3 – August 24, 2025, 06:27:19 pm

Excellent advice from Ron, as usual. I would just add one tip: get a smart battery monitor, preferably before you do any other upgrades. Without one, you really won't know where you stand, electrically. Especially with lithium batteries, a digital voltage readout is nearly worthless.

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Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #4 – August 24, 2025, 07:23:07 pm

Thank you, Andy and Ron. Good to know the PD will work. And great advice on the Victron monitor. I might get that now, hook it up, and then continue making a plan as Ron suggested. Our goal is to be able to use Harvest Host without facilities or boondocking when we start traveling in the spring and make it out west. We will winter in Florida, but with full hook-ups. That might be when I start the upgrades.

We are not "full-time" maintaining our home base here on Kent Island, but I retire in March, and my gypsy gene is kicking in.

Again, thanks, guys.

George

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #5 – August 26, 2025, 07:28:05 pm

As far as brands go, it's hard not to use Victron for as much as you can.
They can provide a lot of the equipment you need and it can all be managed with an app.
Making it convenient to keep track of the system.

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #6 – August 27, 2025, 07:02:03 pm

Only thing I wouldn't use from Victron is batteries.
They seem to be a lot more expensive than many of the alternatives.

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #7 – August 27, 2025, 08:32:38 pm

Agreed. I have used Victron LiFePO4 batteries in two rigs, and they're good, but they are just too expensive for what you get. Otherwise, though, I'm a big fan of their products, and have used them for fifteen years or more in multiple RVs.

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #8 – August 28, 2025, 08:43:31 pm

The first question is, do you plan on a large inverter?
If not, you can make this project easier and cheaper by keeping the Progressive Dynamics converter, as Ron suggested, and switching to a Blue Sky 3000i. The 3000i will fit the Heliotrope's opening with a little trimming and using a conversion spacer. I like the 3000i's visual display.
Heliotrope to Blue Sky Adapter Plate
Heliotrope to Blue Sky Adapter Plate
Sky Blue 3000i solar controller | Flickr
Sky Blue 3000i solar controller | Flickr

Our PD converter is twenty years old, works fine with lithium, and, according to Battleborn's tech line, is fully compatible with lithium batteries.

Definitely upgrade the solar panels' lead-in cabling, don't cheap out, go for an oversized wire gauge to keep voltage drop to a bare minimum.
The above equipment will do fine with 500 watts of solar and 500 amp/hours of lithium battery. I have good luck with the Li-Time lithium batteries.

If you want to spend a bunch of money, Victron makes great equipment, but it will not provide any more practical benefits other than a lot of data to look at on your phone.
Do get a battery monitor as Andy suggested; it will provide a lot of useful information. The Victron monitor would be my choice.

Larry

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #9 – August 29, 2025, 01:47:40 pm

Thank you all for the replies. I favor your conservative approach, Larry. However, looking at all the great Victron products gives me gadget envy lol.

Right now, I am not planning a large inverter as my current AC is original and could benefit from replacement. I am looking at the newer DC models, but am concerned about the BTUs available in the 12v versions, except for the Mabru unit....expensive. Still on the fence, but if I do go the 110v path for the new AC, then I will get a newer charger/3000w inverter. This decision can wait a bit.

The Li-Time batteries are priced right and get good reviews. They will fit into the existing battery box with some modifications to airflow and insulation. I do have some existing uncertainty over the current alternator charging of this bank, with some threads suggesting overheating without additional mods. Some threads say this is not a problem. Larry, any issues charging the lithiums from the stock alternator?

The 3000i solar controller should also be a good replacement...and looks good without additional mods. I will get the Victron battery monitor system/shunt.

Thanks again.

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #10 – August 29, 2025, 02:41:56 pm

Larry said
Heliotrope to Blue Sky Adapter Plate
Heliotrope to Blue Sky Adapter Plate
Sky Blue 3000i solar controller | Flickr
Sky Blue 3000i solar controller | Flickr"

Larry I have seen you post links to the Blue Sky controller and adapter plate several times and it appears to take me to AM Solar.
My understanding was that AM Solar went out of business. Am I mistaken?

Steve K

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #11 – August 29, 2025, 04:29:00 pm

This appears to be the same plate:
SB3000i/SC30-ADAPTER – Sunforge LLC SB3000i/SC30-ADAPTER – Sunforge LLC

Steve

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #12 – August 29, 2025, 06:12:22 pm

Quote from: Steve K. - August 29, 2025, 02:41:56 pm

Larry I have seen you post links to the Blue Sky controller and adapter plate several times and it appears to take me to AM Solar. My understanding was that AM Solar went out of business. Am I mistaken?
Steve K

I went to the site and ordered one, stopping short of actually paying. It appears to be the remains of AM Solar, now a web-based supplier.
I have used the spacer in the past when updating someone's solar controller. Utilizing the spacer to install a 3000i fills the factory cutout and has a clean look.
When I installed our 3000i, I modified the cover plate from the old Heliotrope controller. You can see the modified plate in
the "Blue Sky 3000i" link I posted earlier in this thread.

Larry

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #13 – August 29, 2025, 06:33:30 pm

Thanks Larry. Just the answer I was looking for. I may order one to use for an "upgrade".

Steve K

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #14 – August 29, 2025, 08:15:16 pm

Quote from: gjworley - August 29, 2025, 01:47:40 pm

I favor your conservative approach, Larry. However, looking at all the great Victron products gives me gadget envy lol.

The beauty of owning an RV is that you can modify it anyway you please, as long as it is legal.
Victron produces high-grade equipment, no argument there. If you have money to burn, go for it.

If all you want is an upgraded battery and solar charging system, the 3000i and possibly a bigger converter, one that fits in the Factory position, will provide the same functionality as a Victron system at a fraction of the cost. The only interior change will be losing the compartment under the refrigerator for the additional batteries.

If you switch to a Victron system, the new equipment will need to be located somewhere. It will not fit in the Factory electrical system space, and will require using more storage space, probably the exterior storage under the battery box.
It is tempting to install the batteries in an exterior compartment. A more temperature-controlled place is preferable. Lithium batteries are very temperature sensitive; they don't like being hot or cold.

Our lithium battery pack has used the 130-amp stock alternator for recharging for over three years without issues, along with the stock diode isolator. I believe this is the same isolator your 2006 has. The isolator does limit the charging compared to the relays used in later-year LDs. I have not tested using a relay.
Automotive alternators automatically derate themselves when they get hot. If desired, a DC to DC charger can be installed in place of the isolator, which will limit the charging level.

As for switching to a 12-volt A/C, do you want to be able to run it off the batteries and use it as a replacement for the existing roof-top A/C?
I would imagine a 12-volt, 15K BTU A/C is going to draw in the 140-150-amp range. No reasonably-sized battery pack is going to last long, and recharging depleted batteries could be a long process. The power cable running to the roof would probably need to be 4/0 gauge, very hefty cables to install.

A lot to think about.
Larry

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #15 – August 30, 2025, 01:27:39 pm

Hi Larry, The OutEquipPro is wired and comes with 12 feet of #6 (pretty good) flexible cable. Rated for 10k btuh.
Amazon.com: RV Air Conditioner, 12V 10000 BTU Rooftop Air Conditioner for...
4 'Aught' wiring for a larger unit maybe, but not for this 10k btuh unit. The heater is lightweight, only for hookups (already paid for the electric, might as well use it to save propane) situations. RonB

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #16 – August 30, 2025, 04:28:15 pm

Hello Larry and Ron,

Thanks again for the info. Regarding the AC mentioned, it is shown being installed by several folks. The real-world ampage was around 50 amps at the highest setting....going down to 20ish in the eco mode. My challenge is the BTU size as this will replace, and not supplement, the older AC, which I think is 13500 BTU...works ok in hot weather. Seems these DC guys are pretty efficient with power. As we will be traveling out west and the upper Midwest, where temperatures might be higher I would like one close to the existing BTU. I haven't found a DC unit yet and wonder what the real-world amp draw will be IF one is eventually available.

I will keep my current AC setup now and depend on the generator or shore power, but I am upgrading with the possibility of a larger, efficient DC unit becoming available. The cable will be a challenge, but I think there is some info on this board with suggestions.

Right now, I plan on stealing a bit of room under the fridge to expand the existing battery box. The pull-out will be removed. Two 300-AMP-Hour batteries fit here nicely. Spent yesterday chasing all the wiring and access possibilities. I might pay a younger back to do the work.

Thanks for the info on the stock alternator. I read another thread where the DC to DC dedicated alternator does a great job. If my generator ever dies, then that will be my go-to. The generator is in great shape, so that might be an upgrade for the next owner.

The only other owner did a wonderful job of upkeep and maintenance. Looks like most folks on the board do the same.

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #17 – August 30, 2025, 05:42:12 pm

Quote from: RonB - August 30, 2025, 01:27:39 pm

Hi Larry, The OutEquipPro is wired and comes with 12 feet of #6 (pretty good) flexible cable. Rated for 10k btuh.
Amazon.com: RV Air Conditioner, 12V 10000 BTU Rooftop Air Conditioner for...

I came up with the 140-150 amp draw based on what a 120-volt 15K BTU A/C would use if run on the inverter. I can't imagine a 12-volt A/C is so much more efficient, if at all.

I'm confused about what is being accomplished by going to a 12-volt A/C with a low 10K BTU output. 13K is barely able to keep our 23.5' LD cool on hot days; a 15K A/C would be better.
If the 10K BTU of cooling is to be the primary A/C, it's going to be inadequate on hot days, so why bother?
A 10K A/C would seem to be aimed at van conversions with smaller, better-insulated interiors, not equipped with generators.
Practical long-term A/C operation is going to require shore power or generator time, for either a 12-volt or 120-volt A/C, IMO.

Is the 12-volt A/C supposed to replace or supplement the Factory rooftop A/C? Where is the 12-volt power going to come from once the battery is depleted: the converter on shore power, solar, the generator, or running the engine, using the alternator to recharge the battery?
Few of us have enough solar to produce a continuous 50 amps for daytime use; probably 1200 watts or solar or more would be needed for mid-day operation.
And then you are considering switching to a 12-volt refrigerator and its additional power needs.

From the link you provided.
"Power Your Off-Grid Adventures
With a 12V 360Ah battery, enjoy up to 6 hours of max cooling mode, offering flexibility for your off-grid needs."

Your 405 amp/hour battery is going to be depleted to the 80% point in about six hours if the A/C is drawing 50-amps.. That is going to take a couple of days or more to recharge using solar unless shore power is available or the generator is run for many hours.

Larry

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #18 – August 31, 2025, 04:27:21 am

Hi Larry; The 6 hours they quote is at maximun full on running. I can run the generator if need be. The OutEquipPro 10k is a supplement to the Dometic when plugged in (hookups). The large windows in back (my '99) aren't dual thermal pane, and the Dometic is too far forward. You have the advantage of a central dinette in your floorplan and do sleep in the cabover. I spend inside time in the rear dinette, and also sleep in the large bed in the back. The cabover (cat condo) is storage. The 55A converter, assisted by solar, can run the OEP; the leftover 110VAC can run the Dometic. (that's 13.5k +10k btuh.) The OEP is quieter. At night with no solar heating, the Dometic may not be needed (optional).
If I'm driving through hot places (Texas, New Mexico, Arizona), the OEP in back can assist the dash air. The solar still works, the engine alternator charges batteries and runs the OEP, and I won't need to run the genset. (BTDT) Gas station stops, rest breaks and restaurants won't need the genset either.
Sometimes I'd like a little bit of cooling at night, but some places have generator hours , and no hookups. So I can charge up the batteries and get some cooling during the night. (not full on, max power drain) The Onan Emerald is really !! noisier than your MicroQuiet.
   I probably will stay with an absorption 'fridge.   I can fit two more batteries for 800AH total by using the hard to access space at the fronts of the side compartments. (long compartments, short doors). There are ways to add more solar if I really wanted to. With the new Starlink, I can remove the batwing antenna. That would get me another 200W or 300W, possibly 800W of total solar.
   Should the Dometic develop an issue, I have a spare A/C other than the cab A/C. A little redundancy. The cats would appreciate that also.
   Less than 70 pounds weight added, about $1200, and lots more versatility. RonB
   edited for clarity

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #19 – September 01, 2025, 12:01:51 pm

Ron
Your 12-volt A/C project is going to be a lot of work, but it should be useful in the conditions described.
Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.

Larry

Re: Advice On New Electrical Components

Reply #20 – September 03, 2025, 01:18:10 pm

Hi Larry; Me too! One complication is that I got the roof hole not in the right location. (missed by about 1/2"). That caused a bit of a delay. I ended up with a hole 14-3/8" by 14-5/8". Really poor documentation didn't help. The hole should have just been 10.5" (fore/aft). But I used the extra room to my advantage to run the wiring into the ceiling and over to the nearby (passenger side) overhead storage cabinet. Many pictures and boring details to be shown when it is all finished. RonB

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