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Topic: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna (Read 1078 times) previous topic - next topic
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Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna

Hi Don and Sharon and Welcome to our FOLD. (Fellowship Of Lazy Dazers). Your sale ad  prompted me to post this question for the group:
     I too have a new and as yet unmounted Starlink antenna. I have the much smaller King head unit for broadcast TV signals, so it doesn't take as much space up on the roof. My 23.5' doesn't have as much roof space as longer rigs and the 450W of solar I have now uses up a lot of 'real estate'.
    Others here have removed the antenna. The crank up assembly can still be a source of water leaks. I'm guessing that a flat plate of aluminum could be sealed down over the removed antenna location.
     The antenna pre-amp power supply that has the on off switch, and the 12vdc 'cigarette lighter' plug could be used to power the Starlink, but I'm moving that plug into a storage compartment that will also store the SpaceX supplied cable. A remote on/off switch is mounted inside the rig, with a light to remind me that it is on. 
     I have this Magnedyne unit, white, (also available in brown):  Amazon.com: Magnadyne Multi-Device RV Wall Charger with USB-C, USB-A & VPA...
       and I will use Andy's 12Vdc suggested adaptor for powering the Starlink:  Amazon.com: JOYROOM 120W Super Fast Car Charger USB C, 3-Port PD100W+PD35W...  
   That still leaves you with the hole in the ceiling where the crank assembly is now. I guess a standard blank off wall plate could cover that hole.  ENERLITES Blank Device Wall Plate, 2-Gang 4.88" x 4.92", Mid-Size, Unbreakabl...  RonB

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #1 –
RonB-

Last week a link to a Starlink-on-Sensar-arm product popped up on another site. When I try to go to the site my browser says it has a security problem, so I don't feel comfortable passing that along. I have sent a private message to that user on the other site, to see if he has other contact methods. If anything comes of it I'll let you know.

Mark H.
Former owner, 31-foot gas Class A
Former owner, 1997-8 mid-bath
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #2 –
Hi Mark, Thanks for that.  I thought of doing that, but It would have made it more hazardous to retrieve and replace when I just wanted to place it on a picnic table, or store it in a more 'out of the weather and sunlight' compartment.
And then I would have lost the ability to just get local programming in locations that still have broadcast.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #3 –
We removed the crankable antenna and are placing a Starlink Mini in it's place.  We purchased the weather/hail enclosure for the antenna, and are using the enclosures magnetic base with magnetic disks adheased to the surface.  Iwill probably install a steel plate over the old antenna location to mount the antenna. When parked in the barn I'll remove it from the roof, and place in the metal barn window to use it as the internet source for the barn. 


We have not watched "TV" or cable for probably 20+ years, so we do not have an issue with not getting local broadcasts. We use streaming sites (e.g., Prime Video), and YouTube sites for all we watch.
1997 26.5 Island Bed
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #4 –
Quote from: Doug & Sharon  - 
I will probably install a steel plate over the old antenna location to mount the antenna.

The roof is aluminum, use an aluminum plate to cover the hole.
Using steel will lead to corrosion and potential holes in the roof.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #5 –
If you use a passivation layer, there is no problem with a steel plate as you block the galvanic currents.  The steel is magnetic, the aluminum is not.  I would use steel for the magnetic rain/hail cover for the Starlink antenna to mount it to the roof. The other option is adhesive circular disks for adhesing to the roof for the magnetic legs on the rain/hail cover.  Still testing for the optimal material.

The existing hole for the antenna will be used for the Starlink cables.  I will use a watertight passthrough.

I have years of experience with processes and materials, and spent 14 years on the senior design and management team for Space Station Freedom, and the International space station.

There are a number of ways to passivate, Mylar sheets, plastic sheets, silicon (don't recommend), other coatings . . .

To use Starlink while driving, I plan to either use the inverter 120VAC output (unless running the generator while traveling). While parked, will use the normal 120VAC outlets.   Just switch where the Starlink is plugged in.

If you mount the Starlink antenna on the roof, then you need a router inside as the Faraday cage of aircraft aluminum will block the RF signals from reaching the interior. The Starlink comes with a waterproof Ethernet cable for this purpose.

I love all the contributions to this subject.
1997 26.5 Island Bed
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #6 –
Here is the link to which I referred in Reply #1. As per that post (from five months ago), when I went to that Web page I got a security warning; as of today, I did not get a security warning.

StarGard - StarLink to Winegard Adapter

I have no experience with the product or the seller. Just something I saw on my many wanderings in the Web.

Mark H.
Former owner, 31-foot gas Class A
Former owner, 1997-8 mid-bath
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #7 –
I watched the video regarding installing the Starlink Mini on the Sensor Arm crank - years ago I installed the King Jack antenna - removing the ‘bat wing’ antenna.  Installing the Starlink Mini seems do-able.
  I did not see how the Starlink Mini cable is adapted to the coax cable?  Am I missing something?
1994 Twin King
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #8 –

Hi Chris.  The Starlink just needs 12VDC (up to 30VDC) and uses Wi_Fi to connect.  The King head and the Bat Wing get 12vdc over the Coax center feed. I'm not sure that the center wire can provide enough current for the Starlink. It might tell you if it isn't sufficient. 
   I'm leaving my over the air TV intact, and running a separate power upconverter and cable for the Starlink Mini antenna.  I plan to use the Starlink sitting on a separate small table mostly stationary, camped.  I have a clamp on mount for the ladder rail, if I try to run it from where I'm camped and have a good clear sky. I don't plan (yet) to try running the Starlink underway. The 1" clamp might suffice for underway use with a little extra fastening down. The wire would be tie wrapped to the ladder.
     This is the adaptor for the Starlink Mini:  Amazon.com: Starlink Mini 12V Adapter DC Step Up Converter 12V to 30V 3.5A...
  RonB

As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #9 –
The Starlink Mini has a lower power WiFi when compared to the older Starlinks. When mounting on the roof, the WiFi signal received inside the rig will be much slower due to the attenuating effect of the aluminum roof. For best results, running a router inside the rig is preferable and will provide the full speed available from the Starlink.

Based on over two years of frequent Starlink usage, permanently mounting the Starlink on the roof will lead to times when there will not be a usable signal due to overhead obstructions, primarily from trees.
I understand the appeal of a permanent mounting, but unless you can always park out in the open, there will be times when it will not have a good view of the sky, critical for Starlink's operation.
A permanent mount may be fine for desert camping, but most coastal and mountain campgrounds have trees and assigned campsites where moving to have a good view of the sky is usually not possible. BTDT.
We have had many occasions where moving the Starlink 150' away has still not allowed us to get a good view of the sky, and Starlinks cannot 'see' through trees. My advice is to keep your Starlink portable and not permanently attached to the roof.

Larry


Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #10 –
The Starlink Mini has an Ethernet waterproof connector/port on the Starlink antenna next to the power port. You can connect another router inside the RV to connect your devices to.  I have 4 magnetic adhesive pads connect the antenna and rain/hail protective cover to the roof of the RV over where the TV antenna had been, feeding the power and Ethernet cables to the interior of the RV. The router will give you excellent signal strength to your devices.

The Starlink antenna and internal router will work on the move as long as you have power to Starlink antenna and router via perhaps the inverter 120VDC outlets, or running you generator while driving and using normal 120VDC outlets.

The extra router is to stop the Faraday cage effect of the aluminum RV skin, which blocks RF signals.  You connect your computers, phones, tablets, etc., to the router in the RV.  When outside the RV you should get good direct coverage from the router in the  Starlink antenna.

I see rereading your post you have already mentioned using an internal router.
1997 26.5 Island Bed
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #11 –
Using the magnetic mounts for the Starlink Mini with the rain/hail enclosure, allows you to easily dismount the Starlink antenna from the roof, and to connect the antenna on a table, or rock away from the rig, as long as either you have extra long enough  cables, or a separate power source colocated with the Starlink antenna. In most cases you can connect to the Starlink through the RV's windows.

When at home with the RV in our metal barn, I remove the Starlink from the RV and mount it angled at a window for internet coverage.  I found it does not receive satellite data through a closed window as the window must be coated and not pass RF signals.

Even with the antenna inside the barn, and with at least 180 degrees of the sky blocked by the metal building (only looking towards the northern sky) I still get great coverage.  Speed tests give me well over 100 mega bits per second (sometimes less, sometimes more). We sometimes stream 4K video, or less, with multiple phones also connected.
1997 26.5 Island Bed
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #12 –
Mini again,

I will purchase a flagpole buddy for my Mini.
I use the provided cable, etc.  Recently I placed the Mini on the roof and had phenomenal  internet speed.  I have used both the 110 outlet within the referigerator compartment and my Bluetti for power.  I was curious if the coax cable for the antenna already installed could power the Mini?
It seems that answer is no.  Thank you for all the comments.
1994 Twin King
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #13 –
Quote from: l1v3fr33ord13  - 
Here is the link to which I referred in Reply #1. As per that post (from five months ago), when I went to that Web page I got a security warning; as of today, I did not get a security warning.

StarGard - StarLink to Winegard Adapter

I have no experience with the product or the seller. Just something I saw on my many wanderings in the Web.

Mark H.

Wow, what a great simple invention
Joe B.
2008 26ft  grey/white Rear Bath
NE88 caravan club
Re: Removing Sensar 'Batwing' Antenna
Reply #14 –
Ok, The rg-59U cable that goes from the Winegard power faceplate with the 12vdc, through the wall, ceiling, baseplate and into the 'batwing' preamplifier is often steel with a copper plated surface. RF signals travel through the copper surface (skin effect) and the dc, to power the pre-amp in the antenna head, travels through both. Not much power is required to run the preamp. If you were to hit a tree branch or cause similar damage to the wire, a dead short would present no damage potential to the vehicle, so there is some circuitry to limit current to the antenna head.  The 7.5 amp fuse is to protect the cigarette lighter style outlet, and the TV that might be plugged in to it.
     The amount of current available to a Starlink mini would almost certainly be inadequate to run the antenna correctly. The Stargard is for physical attachment to the present mast. In good shape it should be up to holding the Starlink steady. In a stiff breeze, gusty winds, or driving at speed, I'm not sure that I'd trust my expensive Mini antenna to the light weight antenna lifter. It was never intended for that much flat surface, or weight.
     Doug and Sharon put new power cables through the hole where the old antenna was. So that would power the Starlink. And the router cable, inside separate router, would provide signal strength inside the rig. I'm counting on the window for now. Like Chris and Andy I may carry around a mast (maybe bumper mounted).  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB