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Topic: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD. (Read 1995 times) previous topic - next topic
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Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Hey yall. New Member here.  8)

May be checking out a 1994 Midbath on a Chevy chassis soon.  "Chevy Van 30 RD" I believe the plaquing says.

Pics look like its in good condition. Seller claims no leaks ever, and that everything works as should. "New motor" installed about 1000 miles ago with receipts from local shop supposedly.  Its a 454 he says.  New fridge. 

Just wanted to share with yall enthusiasts over here and see if there are any suggestions or things to look for when inspecting. 

Im not too mechanically inclined so Id just be looking mostly for engine or tranny leaks and want to test drive it down and up a local grade and do maybe 30 miles and see how she shifts and if any overheating. check, touch, smell all fluids.

Interior looks nice in pics. Id check closely for leaks in all roof adjacent storage area and vent areas and around windows. and crawl on the roof to check for obvious issues of course.

He's asking $10k. Will make sure to pass smog before buying.  Im in California by the way.


Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #1 –
Just found the pinned Used Inspection Checklist.  That'll keep me busy for a while.

Wanted to post this ASAP to get some opinions if possible though, since I will be checking it out soon.

$10k seems like a decent deal if it runs, passes smog and has no signs of leakage.   :)

Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #2 –
I don't believe LD ever made a Mid-Bath on a Chevy chassis.
The 22' models were built on a Chevy G-30 chassis ( 10,500 lb.,)
1994, was the first year of a 30' model built on a Chevy GP-30 chassis, it had a much higher GVW of 14,500 lbs and sat much higher on larger wheels.
So what model LD are you looking at?

A 30-year-old RV can have dozens of problems, many unseen or not obvious.
For antique RVs, rot is the kiss of death, it should be avoided at all costs. If you find any, no matter how slight it looks, walk away. Rotted areas are like icebergs, most of it is unseen. Unless you have the ability, place, and money to repair
 it yourself, the repair cost can easily exceed the value of the rig.
The front and rear corners are the most common spots where rot occurs, the result of leaking end caps and/or windows.
Look closely at the ceiling especially in the corners and around the vents.

Be very careful with your inspection, it's unusual to find a rig this old in good condition. Reconditioning an old rig can be very costly, nothing is cheap and repair costs can run in the thousands very quickly.

Larry

Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #3 –
Quote from: Rasko1  - 

Im not too mechanically inclined

I wouldn’t recommend that anyone who isn’t an accomplished shade tree mechanic and DIYer buy a rig that old.  It’s a house and a vehicle and the house shakes like an earthquake each time your drive it.  There will be many things that need attention on both the house and vehicle side. 

A rig like that is a labor of love.  You have to enjoy working on it as much as traveling in it. 

If that’s not your idea of a good time, tread carefully.

Rich
2003 MB
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #4 –
Thanks for the input guys,

Larry, I think its a 30ft. Yea ive heard from many that ANY sign of water leaking is a disqualifier. I guess dry rot would be just as serious? I'm in a desert climate. I'm thinking dry rot would pertain to plastic or rubber trim and of course the roof coating.

rich, that is a great point to consider about having to enjoy working on such an old rig as much as traveling.  I enjoy minor DIY projects that involve a bit of creativity, but im no mechanic.  The cramped engine compartments on these van chassis class c's look like a nightmare to access anything although access from under the vehicle and under the "doghouse" makes for options I guess?

Are 1994 models aluminum framed with regards to the "house boxes"?

Here's a few pics from his ad.


Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #5 –
more pics
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #6 –
Hi Rasko1;  Welcome to the Club, (the FOLD as we sometimes call it; Fellowship Of the Lazy Daze).
   When you say Old, I think of rigs from the late '70's or '80's. Usually found in a barn, or worse, just sitting in a field.  Your '94 is only 5 years older than my '99, (OK, still getting up there I guess). 
    This one has the one piece fiberglass nose cone without the front windows. That's good.  The fold open hood is excellent! Much better access than the small Ford hood on the van chassis (like mine) allows.  The insides look good and well taken care of. At it's age there will still be things needing attention, but I don't see any deal breakers right off the bat.  I'm assuming those are current photos and not something from years ago.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #7 –
Hello Rasko1.   You asked about aluminum framing … all the framing is wood while the skin is aluminum with some parts in fiberglass like the cab over, end caps, lower panels on the sides.  There are a good many construction pictures here.

Lazy Daze Construction Photos

Hope this helps.
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #8 –
If this LD is as clean as it appears, it's a deal, assuming the mechanical parts are still in good condition.
It may still need thousands of dollars in work, tires and batteries are expensive and have limited life spans.

It is an oddball rig, very few G-Ps were built since the chassis was only available for three years and it is a hybrid chassis, a mix between the G30 (what most Chevy-based LDs were built on) and the P30 cargo box van chassis.
Some parts may be difficult to find, Rock Auto (my go-to parts supplier) doesn't list a G-P chassis or anything similar.
It may have larger wheels and tires (more expensive), but I'm not sure since I have only seen one of these rigs in the last 30 years.
Someone has added aftermarket valve covers and tubular exhaust manifolds to the engine..

Make sure to check the corners for leaks inside the Entertainment Center and the back corners inside the cabinets and around the rear windows.

Good luck with your search
Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #9 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
Some parts may be difficult to find, Rock Auto (my go-to parts supplier) doesn't list a G-P chassis or anything similar.

I own 2 vehicles from 2004 (Honda and Ford) and parts are quickly becoming harder to find.   Even harder, for a 1994, is finding a mechanic who knows how to work on those systems.   So much has changed in 30 years.  Look for the gray beard mechanics and treat them wonderfully if you find a good one.  

Rich
2003 MB
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #10 –
"Larry, I think its a 30ft."

There is absolutely no question as to the length... it is definitely a 30' LD, although I'd never seen one on a Chebby chassis! My '04 30'IB is on the Ford chassis.

Clarification; Dry rot is caused by water intrusion and effects primarily wood, eating away over time, causing the wood to disintegrate.  :o  :(
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #11 –
"ive heard from many that ANY sign of water leaking is a disqualifier. I guess dry rot would be just as serious?"

The two go together. Backing up what Steve said: any sign of water leaking, in a thirty-year-old RV with wooden framing and aluminum-over-wood shell, means that rotten wood (otherwise known as dry rot) is guaranteed. Restoring rotted walls and frame in an old Lazy Daze is a MAJOR job that you can expect to spend months on. Figure on putting at least $5,000 and six months of hard work into it before it's usable.

"I'm thinking dry rot would pertain to plastic or rubber trim and of course the roof coating."

Lazy Dazes never used a roof coating. The roof was aluminum over plywood. If you find a coated roof, run away! It means the rig had serious leakage problems, and some uninformed person tried to "cure" them by slathering the roof with goop.

And as Rich pointed out, finding a mechanic who can work on (and get parts for!) a thirty-year-old chassis and drivetrain will be difficult. Be prepared to do the work yourself.

I'm sorry to sound so discouraging, but as Rich said, "It’s a house and a vehicle, and the house shakes like an earthquake each time you drive it."
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #12 –
Quote from: Ed & Margee  - 
Hello Rasko1.   You asked about aluminum framing … all the framing is wood while the skin is aluminum with some parts in fiberglass like the cab over, end caps, lower panels on the sides.  There are a good many construction pictures here.

Lazy Daze Construction Photos

Hope this helps.

thanks, Ed & Margee.  Lots of cool pics in that thread!  
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #13 –
Quote from: RonB  - 
Hi Rasko1;  Welcome to the Club, (the FOLD as we sometimes call it; Fellowship Of the Lazy Daze).
   When you say Old, I think of rigs from the late '70's or '80's. Usually found in a barn, or worse, just sitting in a field.  Your '94 is only 5 years older than my '99, (OK, still getting up there I guess). 
    This one has the one piece fiberglass nose cone without the front windows. That's good.  The fold open hood is excellent! Much better access than the small Ford hood on the van chassis (like mine) allows.  The insides look good and well taken care of. At it's age there will still be things needing attention, but I don't see any deal breakers right off the bat.  I'm assuming those are current photos and not something from years ago.  RonB

Thanks for the input.  It does look well taken care of if the photos are current.  I think Im capable of recognizing any leak spots if I climb on the roof and check in all the corners cabinet and vent areas inside.  I actually looked at a 1988 Ford LD a bit over a year ago and was able to find numerous leak areas.  That one was pretty bad though in a few cabinets and around some window areas.  Needless to say I passed on that one. 

I just gotta make sure the mechanicals on this thing are in decent condition.  
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #14 –
Quote from: Larry W  - 
If this LD is as clean as it appears, it's a deal, assuming the mechanical parts are still in good condition.
It may still need thousands of dollars in work, tires and batteries are expensive and have limited life spans.

It is an oddball rig, very few G-Ps were built since the chassis was only available for three years and it is a hybrid chassis, a mix between the G30 (what most Chevy-based LDs were built on) and the P30 cargo box van chassis.
Some parts may be difficult to find, Rock Auto (my go-to parts supplier) doesn't list a G-P chassis or anything similar.
It may have larger wheels and tires (more expensive), but I'm not sure since I have only seen one of these rigs in the last 30 years.
Someone has added aftermarket valve covers and tubular exhaust manifolds to the engine..

Make sure to check the corners for leaks inside the Entertainment Center and the back corners inside the cabinets and around the rear windows.

Good luck with your search
Larry

Thanks again Larry!

Great info about the chassis and parts availability. I appreciate your insights!

Yea I didn't get info about the tire DOT dates, but was expecting to have to drop close to $2k on tires, factoring in a spare 7th tire,  before I were to take her out of town. I'm not too sure about the batteries either, but he's saying everything works.

I'm not sure if the aftermarket valve covers and exhaust manifolds are a good to have upgrade, or a red flag so to speak.  Maybe it is related to the "recent" "new engine" installation and the limited availability of these older parts you referenced?  I haven't clarified with the seller yet if the engine is new, used, or rebuilt, he said new, but I want to ask him that in person and gauge his response.

Thanks for pointing the aftermarket parts out. Like I said Im no mechanic, and wouldnt recognize something like that. I think I'd better talk to my preferred local mechanic and see if he's willing to check this thing out for me if it passes my initial inspection. The shop where he says the motor was replaced isn't my preferred shop. 

Once I get over this bronchitis I will get over and check this rig out, hopefully this weekend.  I'm just hoping he still has it. but thats almost a red flag in itself if he still has it and it really is as good a deal as it appears to be.   :-\
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #15 –
Quote from: rich  - 
I own 2 vehicles from 2004 (Honda and Ford) and parts are quickly becoming harder to find.   Even harder, for a 1994, is finding a mechanic who knows how to work on those systems.   So much has changed in 30 years.  Look for the gray beard mechanics and treat them wonderfully if you find a good one.  

Rich


Another good point. I think in just the past 5 years supply chain dynamics have changed drastically.  :-\
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #16 –
Quote from: Lazy Bones  - 
"Larry, I think its a 30ft."

There is absolutely no question as to the length... it is definitely a 30' LD, although I'd never seen one on a Chebby chassis! My '04 30'IB is on the Ford chassis.

Clarification; Dry rot is caused by water intrusion and effects primarily wood, eating away over time, causing the wood to disintegrate.  :o  :(

Thanks for clarification.  :)
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #17 –
Quote from: Andy Baird  - 
"ive heard from many that ANY sign of water leaking is a disqualifier. I guess dry rot would be just as serious?"

The two go together. Backing up what Steve said: any sign of water leaking, in a thirty-year-old RV with wooden framing and aluminum-over-wood shell, means that rotten wood (otherwise known as dry rot) is guaranteed. Restoring rotted walls and frame in an old Lazy Daze is a MAJOR job that you can expect to spend months on. Figure on putting at least $5,000 and six months of hard work into it before it's usable.

"I'm thinking dry rot would pertain to plastic or rubber trim and of course the roof coating."

Lazy Dazes never used a roof coating. The roof was aluminum over plywood. If you find a coated roof, run away! It means the rig had serious leakage problems, and some uninformed person tried to "cure" them by slathering the roof with goop.

And as Rich pointed out, finding a mechanic who can work on (and get parts for!) a thirty-year-old chassis and drivetrain will be difficult. Be prepared to do the work yourself.

I'm sorry to sound so discouraging, but as Rich said, "It’s a house and a vehicle, and the house shakes like an earthquake each time you drive it."

No worries Andy. I appreciate the discouragement!  I'll definitely talk to a mechanic. And I definitely wont be forcing or rushing this decision.

Thanks for the heads up about the roof coating.  I'll read more into roof maintenance on here.

THANKS YALL!!!!  
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #18 –
UPDATE:

Checked out the rig this afternoon for just a couple hours.

Found a small spot with evidence of a leak in front corner entertainment center above driver. Corner interior paneling was caulked and wood ceiling panel had a couple warp ripples formed in about a 6to8" square near that caulked corner seam.  The external fiberglass vertical flat panel corresponding to this area was cracked pretty much from top to bottom, with probably an 1/8th inch gap in cracked fiberglass area. (no pics, SORRY). 

Rooftop had a few bare spots with metal showing, I assume just needs painted besides the seams.  The seams for most part seemed sealed decently with some kind of caulking material goop which was discolored pretty dark in contrast to the white roof and was dry and crumbly to touch.  The  siding seam  in mid curve area near top of ladder was sealed with this caulk goop stuff but had grown a bit of a gap at about the middle of its curve, maybe a 3/16ths" wide gap a few inches long. I didnt find any signs of leakage on the interior corresponding to this section.  all vent and appliance circumferences seemed sealed decently with this aging discolored goop. Bathroom vent cover had a small hole and was probably very sunrotted. AC cover was half gone as it had cracked and been torn apart from high winds. AC worked with shore power, but im assuming it needs another exterior cover before the rain gets to its components. 

fridge was working off of propane and kitchen sink had water pressure from either propane or shore power.

Tires looked good but dated 2016.   :'(

Motor sounded good and smooth. A small hose or cable from engine area towards transmission which had a heatsleeve of some sort on it had leaked oil all over it below a small hose clamp, looked to my untrained eye to be a loose clamp as it was dry above that clamp.  Also, exhaust pipe halfway to muffler was leaking condensed warm water at a welded coupling, a slow steady drip about every minute or so. Probably needs rewelded again to my untrained eye.

Lots of maintenance records. The engine replacement which was supposedly 1000 miles ago was actually 10yrs and 5000 miles ago according to the documents.  $8k of engine hoses and belts. Im assuming those rubbers and belts are very due for replacement although all that stuff looked ok to this non mechanic.  2014 is a long time ago. 

He drove us about 10to 12 miles round trip up and down a small grade here on hwy 247 dropping into Yucca Valley from Landers area and back up.  Engine seemed to run smooth and kept a steady 50mph goin up the grade without pushing it to downshift.  shifting seemed smooth and strong, but the first time getting speed out of the driveway was a bit abrupt/strong. 

All in all, I think its worth what hes asking.  Im a little less enthused after finding that small leak evidence and the cracked exterior panel.  The roof seams are gonna need redone very soon I suspect. Needs tires for any real excursions.  House batteries are dead and swelling.  That oily hose/cable, and the exhaust condensation leak need attention.  exteriors of storage compartments were showing wear and slight water damage underneath but looked good, felt sturdy, and still lined pretty well inside them. They could probably use some kind of sealant on the undercarriage area.   

This is just the stuff a novice like me noticed in a quick couple hours.  I think its a decent buy for someone. I just havent decided if that someone is me.  LOL.   He's got a bunch of vehicles and toys, and lives quite close to the offroad areas he likes.  He doesnt need this rig and you can tell he's barely used it a few times since he bought it from the neighbor lady a couple years ago.

I told him Id talk to my preferred mechanic in the morning and see if he would be willing to inspect the drivetrain for me. Im not sure if he has the space or desire to deal with a 1994 30fter either.  So I guess thats it for now. 

Torn...   :-\
 
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #19 –
Sounds like you did a fairly thorough inspection given the time you had. You could, after a satisfactory mechanic’s inspection, offer a lesser amount than asking based on the deficiencies you found. Six tires and a spare alone will be $1,500 or so. You’ll need house batteries also.  If you don’t mind putting in some labor yourself, you could save a lot of money. Hard to know what water damage is lurking under the skin.

If it were me and I really wanted this rig, I’d probably offer in the $7,500 range. Good luck!
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #20 –
Thanks for the input HILOLA.

A lower offer is a good idea. But, Im having doubts, with the small leak and I think the biggest point made here is about buying a 30yr old model without being a competent mechanic has me kind of spooked.

Ive got an appointment with the mechanic mid next week, but might just cancel and tell the seller Im out.


Thanks for the advice yall.  Very good points to consider all around.
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #21 –
I called it off.   :-[
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #22 –
Keep hunting, and sooner or later something better will turn up.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: Advice on buying a 1994 Chevy LD.
Reply #23 –
March 27,2025. I had just read the above and more on other sights.
Hopefully I will sleep tonight.
Last November we bought a 97 26.5 after bussing 300 miles. To my untrained eye all works and looks great. We brought her home. I inspect more now, at home. We used it twice. I did put in a new chassis battery. An rv repair shop inspected the roof and approved. I can't get up there. Our go to mechanic drove it and took a quick look and listen. Said things should be ok. So far no evidence of leaks or exterior damage.
Our fingers are crossed but it's an enjoyable and nice looking LD.