Log In | Register
Skip to main content
Topic: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL (Read 305 times) previous topic - next topic
0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.
Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
I’m upgrading to a 21st Century toilet and the flange has to be rotated to align the new toilet’s bolt pattern. The mounting screws to the floor are obvious (and removed) I’m hoping the flange isn’t glued to the black tank. I would hate to break something while prying on the flange. Am I making this more difficult than necessary?
I try not to break the rules but merely test their elasticity.  '88 22RL converted to Rear Dinette
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #1 –
Hi Bob;  So what model are you taking out, and what model are you installing?  My '99 has a Sealand Traveler #510.
   The toilet deposits straight into your black tank, if it is like mine, through a collar installed on the floor. The pedestal is installed to the floor independently, if I got it right.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #2 –
RonB the original Aqua Magic has mounting holes at 11&5 o’clock. The newer Thetford Aqua Magic Residence High Profile Toilet has holes at 9&3 o’clock. It’s the same collar/mounting flange-just rotated a few degrees. I can slightly move the flange from the floor after removing the 4 screws, but I’m afraid to go gorilla and end up causing damage to the black tank. I’m hoping that flange is not glued to the tank.
I try not to break the rules but merely test their elasticity.  '88 22RL converted to Rear Dinette
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #3 –
Quote from: Dazed  - 
I can slightly move the flange from the floor after removing the 4 screws, but I’m afraid to go gorilla and end up causing damage to the black tank. I’m hoping that flange is not glued to the tank.

There is only one way to tell how the flange is attached to the black tank. Removed the four screws, work a thin putty knife around under the flange to break loose any adhesive, if it is tight, and then try to rotate the flange.
I think Ron is correct, the flange is not glued to the black tank.
Working on old motorhomes always teaches you something new.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #4 –
Hi Bob;  As Larry said, you'll learn new things!   I did find a youtube  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwrF3KYCwtM.  It does show the mounting base screws at "11 and 5 o'clock". Pretty clueless but provides a key photo at 12:30 of the floor flange.  A 13mm wrench translates to 1/2". I'm sure the AquaMagic is English standard. The twisted up 'gas' line he refers to is a copper water line most likely.  My old 1980 SOB had all copper water lines.
    The new toilet you have, that you are going to install, should have a new flange with it for the through floor connection to the holding tank.   RonB        (p.s. there have to be better videos out there than this!)
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #5 –
Yikes that was nasty😵. I had to bleach  my hands after watching that. After watching more YouTube videos, I’m going to try LarryW’s idea of rotating the flange and hope it’s screwed in not glued in. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=acuEzt3ZLtU&embeds_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY&feature=emb_logo
I try not to break the rules but merely test their elasticity.  '88 22RL converted to Rear Dinette
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #6 –
Hi Bob;  Yeah the person didn't even put on gloves until halfway!   You video was more interesting (and cleaner).  It looks that the mounting collar just unscrews from a pipe coming up from the tank.  You could undo the screws holding the flange down to the floor, and unscrew it enough to get the toilet hold down screws into the correct location. After this many years you should probably replace that flange. I would think that your new toilet came with a new flange. Hopefully the tank won't move while you attach and screw down the new flange. No cross threading the new one!
    Weeks ago I was tightening the four base mounting bolts on my Sealand, and snapped one off.  Brass (Bronze?), not as tough as steel, oops! Other three holding, so I'll keep an eye on that, while I buy the parts I'll need.  RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #7 –
If it is a regular toilet flange, when you remove all the screws from it, it might just turn on the pipe to what ever position you need. On my old Tioga nothing was glued to the holding tanks simply a piece of pipe slid into the tank flange and a big hose clamp secured everything in place.
Here's hoping,

Jon
1994 MB
Re: Toilet flange removal 1988 22RL
Reply #8 –
No joy attempting to un-screw the flange. I’m not going to get as drastic as the Airstream video. Moved to Plan B. The slots in the flange that were NOT  used by LD in the original installation are very close to the position I need. With some grinding, chiseling, sweating and cussing I elongated those slots and was able to get the bolts where I needed. See photo. The circles are the original mounting slots-dashed indicate modified slots.  It now fits!
BUT THE TOILET IS TOO HIGH!  Probably because it was designed to go on a carpeted floor (ugh) the flange keeps the base of new toilet from sitting flush with the floor surface. PLAN C. (and possibly D.) Use a thicker flooring or use a sub-floor so the base of toilet is raised to the level of the top of flange. I’m definitely not going back to carpet!
I try not to break the rules but merely test their elasticity.  '88 22RL converted to Rear Dinette