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Topic: Rubber molding for outside compartments (Read 344 times) previous topic - next topic
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Rubber molding for outside compartments
A piece of the rubber molding in one of our storage compartments on our 2013 Twin Bed has decided it's life is over.  Would anyone have a suggestion of where to point me to purchase replacement strips/roll?

TIA,

Bill
2013 31' Silver Twin Bed
Semi-retired 6/21....
Re: Rubber molding
Reply #1 –
The factory has this stripping/molding; just call and describe what you want. They require that you send a check for the cost of the product, tax, and postage to ship it. When they receive your check, they send your order. ;)

2003 TK has a new home
Re: Rubber molding
Reply #2 –
I ordered enough to do the cabinet that needed it and two others. The idea being that if one is shot the others are not far behind.   Only one other needed help.  The rest seem to be good.   We have had  some very wet weather the last few weeks.  I have not complained because of the fires out west.
Previously: 2007 Mid Bath
Re: Rubber molding
Reply #3 –
Bill,

On my last visit to the Mothership, I picked up 25’ of self adhering rubber for the outside cargo bays. I only used enough for three bays with plenty left over for the future.

Simple project. Clean the old “sticky” off with acetone and when applying the new rubber make sure you simply lay it in place as you go. Vince told me that if you stretch it as you lay it into place it will eventually pull itself free. It’s been some time since I installed it and it still looks great.

I had priced it out and Lazy Daze is far less than even Amazon. I used a piece of twine to go around the openings to get a length then Vicky measured the string. At a dollar a foot, it was a bargain.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Rubber molding
Reply #4 –
Hi Bill; A friend's 2001 MB had most of the compartment gaskets in bad shape, and the previous owner included one old gasket that had come completely off. Unless it is torn, this was in remarkably good shape. Still stretchy, no surface cracking, and 16 years old. The problem was a thin layer of double sided tape that had detached from the gasket material, and sometimes from the door rim.
     Although I had bought some from the mothership, I still had to clean the door rim, so I used acetone, carefully, it will attack the paint, but apparently not the door rims. I think I tried 'Goo-Gone' also. If it works, it's safer for materials. I cleaned the gasket material easily, and removed any of the double sided tape. It was deteriorating as I cleaned it off of the rubber (Neoprene I would guess). I re-glued the rubber directly to the framework using fast cure white Gorilla glue. Be really careful with that stuff; messy and Permanent (with a capital 'P') I used cotton swabs to apply a film of water right at where the glue goes also with a cotton swab. I had a bowl of water to clean drips. The water speeds adhesion and curing. (really, it's in the directions.) You've got about 10-15 minutes 'open' time, so I did about two foot sections at a time. Ok I only had about ten clothes pins. (After I finished I found the container of new pins!). The glue foams up so you need to apply pressure. I covered it with the blue painters tape, and that helped keep the glue off of the clothes pins. Like Vince said you don't want to stretch the gasket material, especially going around corners. It took about 2-3 hours and I could undo the clamps, and carefully peel off the tape. The excess glue foams up around the edges of the gasket, and can be easily removed with a itty-bitty 1/16" wide screwdriver blade. I used a machinist's pick (scribe). It took some time but I think it will be a lot more permanent than the original version. More clothes pins and I could have done more at a time. I taped the compartment doors open with painters tape.
    After the first compartment it was easier. Some gaskets were still well attached, so I just re-glued the parts that were loose. 
    Maybe the gasket material shrinks with time, or maybe the person who did this coach, stretched it too much. When I finished at the top of my first compartment, not stretching the gasket, I ended up four inches short! So I used a four inch piece to fill in the gap. 'Shoehorned' the segment in to not have a gap appear later.  I'll bet most of you have the corners pull off first. I've had that happen on my '99 TK. One thing I do about once every year is liberally apply a coating of spray dry lube (Silicone). But I spray a piece of paper towel and wipe it just on the gasket, several coats. I clean and coat the mating surface on the compartment door, and wipe on the silicone spray. I tape the compartment door open while it dries for a few hours. I use a blob of that painters tape on the handle so It doesn't scratch the paint on the wall or handle. I had cleaned a compartment gasket once, ran out of time and closed it. A few days later it was almost impossible to get open, and detached a corner. (had to re-glue that). I suspect that lack of 'dry' lube causes most gasket failures. If I have to pull on the door to get it to open, just a little sticky, that's my reminder to do this PM.  Hope this helped.. RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: Rubber molding for outside compartments
Reply #5 –
Another option worth a try is 3M's VHB foam tape.  Thin, gray, with red release backing on both sides.  Works very well with clean surfaces you've described. One-shot on alignment, though.
2000 Front Lounge
Re: Rubber molding for outside compartments
Reply #6 –

i had fairly good luck with this stuff, using the prep listed above...

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1999 MB