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Topic: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed (Read 1045 times) previous topic - next topic
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Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
This cab over area. Fun huh!?
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #1 –
Fie!  Quite a project.
Was this expected when you bought it?
Do you have, can you develop the tools to do this?
I see a bunch of new tools in your future.   
Keep posting your progress.
Joel & Terry Wiley
2013  31 IB   ORWAN   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #2 –
Quote from: joel wiley  - 
Fie!  Quite a project.
Was this expected when you bought it?
Do you have, can you develop the tools to do this?
I see a bunch of new tools in your future.   
Keep posting your progress.

Joe, it was indeed expected. One of those seek advice as you venture further. I am either confident or a fool. We shall see. I do plan to bore folks with my progress.

As for new tools, those exist only in my ability to discern the best way to accomplish an enormous task.
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #3 –
It's a good thing your are young, it is going to take some time to sort this project out.

Start by cutting back the paneling until you find intact wood all the way around the rot.
Once all the rot has been removed and good wood exposed, the whole are needs to be sprayed to kill off the fungus and spores.
In a previous posting concerning rot, Paul B. suggested using a Bora-Care, or TimBor solution to spray the rot, before completely drying the interior. Vacuum the bunk area clean, you will be spending a lot of time up there, no need to be breathing dust and spores.

Has the cab sagged over the passenger side door?  if so, a framework of 2 X 4"s needs to be built to lift it back to the proper height plus adding an inch or so to allow for settling once the repairs are made and supporting frame removed.
Check the other corner and the front window area for rot, using an icepick to located soft wood.
Don't be surprised if you find more, the pre-90 LDs suffered from much rot in the front caps due to the many seams.
The post-90 one-piece caps do not have nearly as many leaks.
Even if there is no rot in the front window (yet) plan on a total reseal, they all eventually leak.
Some even cover over the front window cutout with sheet aluminum to eliminate future leaks.

For tools, I suggest a vibratory tool with several different size wood blades, good for making clean cuts in hard to reach places.
A pneumatic stapler that can shoot 3/8" -1-1/2". narrow crown staples is very useful.

When starting the repairs, start at the floor of the bunk and work upward, re-establishing the ceiling's height and support.

You are going to have a lot of fun.
Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #4 –
Quote from: Mindispower  - 
Joe, it was indeed expected. One of those seek advice as you venture further. I am either confident or a fool. We shall see. I do plan to bore folks with my progress.

As for new tools, those exist only in my ability to discern the best way to accomplish an enormous task.


Day two. Pictures paint a thousand words.
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #5 –
On the roof views, are those pinholes in the aluminum?
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #7 –
I saw the one large hole which looked like an old screw hole but wasn't sure if there were other, smaller holes.  So I assume you will be repairing or replacing the roof material as well.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #8 –
Quote from: HiLola  - 
I saw the one large hole which looked like an old screw hole but wasn't sure if there were other, smaller holes.  So I assume you will be repairing or replacing the roof material as well.

Absolutely! Will not move forward until I know all leaks die the painful death they deserve. I just bought this and it needs to be good until the day I move on. 😁
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #9 –
So, cab over is rid of rot and will leave to dry. Removed all screws also. Fortunately the shell is fiber glass so no rust worries. Will reframe with pine.
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #10 –
Just a word of encouragement then one note to add to other LDO members comments.

Good on you for bringing a LD back from the brink.

Now the note. Currently Lazy Daze uses foam board insulation in place of the older fiber batting. Foam adds to the R Value of the insulation. Any ideas of replacing the batting with foam board in the areas that you have already exposed?

Just a thought.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #11 –
Quote from: Kent Heckethorn  - 
Just a word of encouragement then one note to add to other LDO members comments.

Good on you for bringing a LD back from the brink.

Now the note. Currently Lazy Daze uses foam board insulation in place of the older fiber batting. Foam adds to the R Value of the insulation. Any ideas of replacing the batting with foam board in the areas that you have already exposed?

Just a thought.

Kent
That has been my intention from the start. Thanks for the suggestion and encouragement. It is much appreciated.
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #12 –
Today my get up and go is in slo-mo.  8)
Quote from: Larry W  - 
It's a good thing your are young, it is going to take some time to sort this project out.

Start by cutting back the paneling until you find intact wood all the way around the rot.
Once all the rot has been removed and good wood exposed, the whole are needs to be sprayed to kill off the fungus and spores.
In a previous posting concerning rot, Paul B. suggested using a Bora-Care, or TimBor solution to spray the rot, before completely drying the interior. Vacuum the bunk area clean, you will be spending a lot of time up there, no need to be breathing dust and spores.

Has the cab sagged over the passenger side door?  if so, a framework of 2 X 4"s needs to be built to lift it back to the proper height plus adding an inch or so to allow for settling once the repairs are made and supporting frame removed.
Check the other corner and the front window area for rot, using an icepick to located soft wood.
Don't be surprised if you find more, the pre-90 LDs suffered from much rot in the front caps due to the many seams.
The post-90 one-piece caps do not have nearly as many leaks.
Even if there is no rot in the front window (yet) plan on a total reseal, they all eventually leak.
Some even cover over the front window cutout with sheet aluminum to eliminate future leaks.

For tools, I suggest a vibratory tool with several different size wood blades, good for making clean cuts in hard to reach places.
A pneumatic stapler that can shoot 3/8" -1-1/2". narrow crown staples is very useful.

When starting the repairs, start at the floor of the bunk and work upward, re-establishing the ceiling's height and support.

You are going to have a lot of fun.
Larry

Thanks Larry. Yes, going to be thoroughly cautious about prep before framing. Fortunately there are no front windows. Yes, 60 years young. BTW, what do you think of alum. framing as an alternative?

The rear window had a gap of up to 1/4" until my partner in crime, Chris 'the beadman' Pierce worked his magic!
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #13 –
Today is insert new radiator day. Pretty simple actually. However, brainwave here disconnected  the hood cable, forgot he did and promptly closed the hood! Had to physically remove hood pins but now the mechanism does not work. Sems to me the cable now has too much play.
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #14 –
If one considers a busted radiator to be rot, this post belongs here. So highly rated is my LD, the delivery vehicle was appropriate.
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #15 –
I am in awe of anyone taking on a project such as this.   I find the baseline skills & the courage to jump in simply amazing.

Here's a question, just because I was watching This Old House this morning & they used the product--why not spray foam insulation that would expand to fill nooks & crannies & provide a more water-tight barrier, instead of cutting/fitting rigid insulation to  maneuver into the spaces?  As I watched  This Old House I thought about the impossibility of future updates (adding circuits/etc. that could be fished through the voids of non-foam insulated spaces, but I'm sure there must be other reasons).  Can someone enlighten My ignorance?

Thx--

Lynne
Lynne
LDy Lulubelle, Green '05 31' TB
Lilly, the 4-Legged Alarm
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #16 –
My reason not to use foam is that it apparently gives off odors for months. I also think that foam board has a higher r value and down the road if anything needs to come out for repair, the board makes life a lot simpler.
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #17 –
Lynne,

Spray in foam looks great going in... but a real pain to get out. I’ve used it at the homestead on occasion to fill a void. Wish I hadn’t. It’s removal is extremely difficult.

Prying and chopping and a few choice words still leaves it attached to places you can not access. Batting works well for ceiling installion between the studs and can be removed with no great effort. Foam panels are a great option for our beloved LD’s as the R value is high and it is easy to work with.

I pity the person who attempts an LD structural repair and finds spray in foam behind the panel. 😫

Just sayin’

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #18 –
Quote from: Kent Heckethorn  - 
,
I pity the person who attempts an LD structural repair and finds spray in foam behind the panel. 😫
Just sayin’

Pity anyone trying to work on an LD with insulated holding tanks. The stuff is almost impossible to remove.

Spray foam is the ticket for new home construction or extensive remodeling but it is messy.
It is best used with designs that have built-in utility chases, to allow for future electrical and electronics additions.
For RVs, high-R foam board is the easiest to work with.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #19 –
When selecting options for our LD, I questioned Todd about the foam insulation on the tanks. He said it did very little good and that removing it was a real pain.

Needless to say that was one option we did not select.

Kent
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #20 –
Quote from: joel wiley  - 
Fie!  Quite a project.
Was this expected when you bought it?
Do you have, can you develop the tools to do this?
I see a bunch of new tools in your future.   
Keep posting your progress.
[/quote


This qualify as a new tool purpose wise?
LD 22', 1989 Custom Build. Chassis 1990 Chevy Van G30, 5.7l.
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #21 –
Exactly! What more does anyone need but a solid hammer and a Swiss Army Knife?
2015 27' RB "MissB.Haven"
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #22 –
Quote from: Mindispower  - 

[/quote


This qualify as a new tool purpose wise?
Well, if you break the blade and it's Victorinox, you can get it replaced here for the cost of shipping.
Swiss Army Knife Repair - they don't do Wengers
(Ask me how many times I've used the service  :D )
Joel & Terry Wiley
2013  31 IB   ORWAN   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE
Re: Extensive Rot-all tips welcomed
Reply #23 –
Quote from: Kent Heckethorn  - 
When selecting options for our LD, I questioned Todd about the foam insulation on the tanks. He said it did very little good and that removing it was a real pain.

Needless to say that was one option we did not select.

Kent

Sigh. I wish Todd had been as direct with us. No one said a word when we foolishly checked that option box. Now, to replace a dump valve, I’m going to have to get out a chisel and go to work. 🤨. — Jon
(Former) ‘06 TK “Albatross.” And (former) Vespa 250.   Alas, no more; both are gone.😕 Great memories remain! 😄