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Topic: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps. (Read 665 times) previous topic - next topic
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Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Resently purchased a 89 22 ft FL and getting ready to re-seal the roof with eternabond, re-seal the windows and end caps with 3M 5200 fast cure.  So I have been reading old forms on this site and just found out that the 3M fast cure is hard to get out of the tube and sets up very fast. So my question is.
I have just purchased 3 x 10oz tubes to be used with a caulking gun to apply around the windows and end caps, will there be any issue with the 3M setting up and drying before all of it is used from the 10oz tube. Planning to do the roof first, than the end caps, and then the windows. So not sure if one 10 oz tube would be used all at once. Can anyone tell be how fast it would harden where it would no longer be able to dispense out of the tip of tube?  Bought the 10 oz as the cost was a lot cheaper than 1oz tubes and am doing a lot of re-sealing. Not sure if I have purchased too much and should do an exchange before starting the job.
Also doing re-seal around roof vents just pulling sealant over old sealant using Dicor.  Would I use 501 self level or 551 non leveling?

Your input is appreciated since I am a newbie first RV, first LD. So been reading a lot and learning a lot from everyone here.  This is a great forum.

A dinosaur to most of you and out of date but I love the T-Rex.

Hank



1989 22'
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #1 –
I have no issue using an entire tube of 5200 in a caulking gun once I start. Takes me maybe 2 hours.

I make sure all the prep is done and everything is taped, masked and ready to go. Don't forget the tip to don multiple sets of those examination gloves so you can peel them off as they get contaminated. I like to also have a few rags and a roll of paper towels on hand, and a selection of scrap lumber sticks for scraping caulk off my hands, shoes,  face, driveway, roof, passersby, etc. That stuff gets everywhere. Have fun!
Paul
'92 Mid Bath
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #2 –
To keep the nozzle from hardening up between uses I insert a 10 penny nail (or one that fits the opening snuggly. The next time you need to use the sealant just take a pair of pliers, pull the nail out and go to work. Sometimes it takes a bit of rotation to get it free.   ;)
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #3 –
Isn't using 5200 on the windows going to make the very difficult to get out should the need arise?

Jim
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #4 –
"Isn't using 5200 on the windows going to make the very difficult to get out should the need arise?"

The rear window in my TK had been edge-sealed with 5200; Vince didn't report any difficulty removing it or cleaning/prepping the perimeter (other than scraping/cleaning took a small additional amount of time) when the factory replaced the fogged original unit. The new window and all the others are sealed with 5200; it's just a narrow bead of sealant around the frame, so I don't think there are significant issues with difficulty of removal. (Eternabond removal is a different matter!)

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #5 –
I recommend being extremely judicious about where you use the 5200.  It is really intended to be used on items that you don't intend to remove in the future.  On fiberglass boats, 5200 removal has been known to pull gel coat off the surface.  My personal experience removing deck hardware that has been attached with 5200 has been unpleasant and laced with curses toward the previous owner.  For removable items like vents, etc., I use butyl tape and dicor roof sealant.  When I replaced a window in the past, I used a silicon sealer with good results and did not have subsequent leaks. 
Use whatever the factory recommends, but if you ever anticipate removing an item, you will regret having used 5200 for the prior job. Paul's recommendation about using multiple exam gloves is a really good idea.  A little misplaced 5200 will get onto all of the things you don't want it on!
By the way, if you have to remove any old Dicor on the roof, try heating it with a heat gun first and then remove it with a putty knife.  It makes the job easier, faster, and with cleaner results.
2014 27 MB
Towd: Either the Jeep Wrangler or trailer containing the BMW R1200GS and 2 E-bicycles
Happy wife=Happy life
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #6 –
Quote from: Jim & Gayle  - 
Isn't using 5200 on the windows going to make the very difficult to get out should the need arise?

Jim

My understanding is that modern day RV's must have an escape route other than the main entry door. In the past, the LD escape hatch satisfied this requirement. Other brands generally have a window designed as an escape route. Does LD do this on their newer models?
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #7 –
Jim, I may have misunderstood your comment on the difficulty of "getting out"; did you mean removing the window for repair/replacement or using a window as an "escape" for occupants in case of emergency? If the latter, I can't see why an edge seal of 5200 around the frame would have any bearing on a large window being used as an escape route?

Joan
2003 TK has a new home
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #8 –
When applying a sealant to the window frame that has been removed, you do NOT want to use an adhesive like the 5200! There are many reasons you may in the future need to remove that window, and you will not be able to do that without damaging probably both the window and the siding. Use window sealing tape for that purpose, clean out what oozes out after a week or so, then you can solvent clean and apply a permanent edge seal. 5200 or similar products should be ok for this purpose.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #9 –
"...then you can solvent clean and apply a permanent edge seal. 5200 or similar products should be ok for this purpose."
----
Yes; I wasn't referring to sealing a new window into the frame with 5200, just sealing around the frame of the installed window.

When the factory installed the new back window in my rig, they used Loctite PL S40 to "goop" it in. I cleaned up some small "squeeze out" overage bumps and valleys in the Loctite, then cleaned around the frame first with solvent, then with white vinegar, then taped off the window frame and applied the 5200 as a frame seal.

Joan

2003 TK has a new home
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #10 –
Quote from: JCT  - 
Yes; I wasn't referring to sealing a new window into the frame with 5200, just sealing around the frame of the installed window.

Yep, I knew that, but I wasn't sure what Hank intended. Just resealing the perimeter is ok if there are no signs leakage has occurred, but otherwise removing the window and resealing the frame is essential as a first step.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #11 –
Guessing my post on resealing in regards to the windows was not worded correctly.  I will be resealing the outer frame which seems that 5200 has been used in most cases on this forum.

Thank you for all your replies, guessing Dicor is ok to use around my roof vents, I will just be using it to cover up and small cracks so was going to use the non level brand.

Hank
1989 22'
Re: Resealing of roof,windows and end caps.
Reply #12 –
Quote from: JCT  - 
Jim, I may have misunderstood your comment on the difficulty of "getting out"; did you mean removing the window for repair/replacement or using a window as an "escape" for occupants in case of emergency? If the latter, I can't see why an edge seal of 5200 around the frame would have any bearing on a large window being used as an escape route?

Joan

I was talking about removing the window.

Jim