Water heater May 07, 2025, 12:01:09 pm Water heater will not light for more than s few seconds. It is trying 3 time before lockout. I have replaced everything except the off on switch and tank. Any ideas what is wrong. Dennis
Re: Water heater Reply #1 – May 07, 2025, 12:40:19 pm Hi Dennis; Does the flame look and sound like what it should be when it is on? If so the igniter tip may not be sensing the flame. It cuts off the gas and tries again. The free electrons in the flame conduct electricity to confirm to the logic electronics board, that the flame is lit. Try lightly sanding (clean) the tip and see if that fixes it. I copied this from the IRV2 forum: "Re-position spark electrode so tip is engulfed in flame....gets red (maintain 1/8" spark gap) Make sure flame spreader is straight/parallel to end of burner tube Check that high voltage wire from transformer on board has clean/tight connections on both ends Check that mounting screw for spark electrode assembly is clean/tight (provides ground) Replacing the circuit board is LAST option........." I hope this helps. RonB 1 Likes
Re: Water heater Reply #2 – May 07, 2025, 12:41:02 pm The water heater is very sensitive to poor electrical connections. The spark gap needs to be within specs.I suggest a full tune-up before buying any additional parts.Here is a video that goes through the basic tune-up procedure.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GXtp_2sA8AoYou will need a multimeter.Larry 3 Likes
Re: Water heater Reply #3 – May 07, 2025, 01:13:33 pm Hi Larry, a good video, but a few comments... He had it all apart but he didn't say he cleaned the tip of the igniter. My opinion is that it can provide a spark (very high voltage) no matter how clean it is, but the small current through the plasma that provides a signal back to the control board, needs a better connection, causing this problem if it is dirty. He did mention adjusting the flame spreader, which could be dirty, deflecting the flame away from the igniter tip, but he didn't say if he did adjust it. He should have made it clear that the thermal fuse is a fuse, and if it is open, it has to be replaced. Usually this fails if the flame through the heat exchanger tube is partially blocked and blows back to the location of the fuse. He could have added that the ECO switch is "electric cut off'. I would have mentioned 'soot build up outside' as an indicator that the air/fuel mixture needed adjusting for more air. He did mention that altitude affects that mix ratio. And yearly the plastic plug should be removed to clean the tank of particulate matter, or inspected. A lot of that depends on how 'hard' the water you generally use is. One trouble I have seen in person is connector pins to the control board, that had moved out of position in the white plastic shell. Pushing the one connector back into the shell to properly seat, fixed it. (I think that was a factory defect that didn't show up as a problem until after a few years.) RonB 2 Likes
Re: Water heater Reply #4 – May 07, 2025, 03:41:08 pm 90% of the problems I have found with the Atwood water heaters are caused by poor electrical connections, renewing all the connections usually solves the issue. I have found the spark gap set too wide on many heaters, it should be about 1/8".The control boards occasionally go bad. Dinosaur makes a good replacement.I carry an extra board, along with a spare thermal fuse that has been 'borrowed' a few times at Caravans and GTGs to get someone through the event until replacements can be obtained.Larry 2 Likes
Re: Water heater Reply #5 – May 07, 2025, 06:28:17 pm Thanks to you all for the information. I did clean the spark igniter and made sure they aline and set gap to 1/8", did not clean where the assembly to the flame tube will clean it and make sure that round thing is centered. I was in the old LD group for a long time and stopped using it. Just found this site a few days ago. Glad to be back. We live in Bend oregon area. We have a 1999 green 30' we bought in J̌une 2004.P.S. the flame sounds normal for 10 seconds or so. 1 Likes
Re: Water heater Reply #6 – May 08, 2025, 12:46:02 pm Hi Dennis, Welcome back! We have lots of archive entries and The very useful Companion as sources of information concerning just about anything. The Search function can shed light on many issues. So you said " the flame sounds normal for 10 seconds or so." Then what? Does it fade away, or abruptly shut off?Do your flames on the cooktop look normal? I'm wondering if you have a pressure regulator problem or some contamination in the propane. If your space heater works normally then the issue probably is with the water heater. RonB
Re: Water heater Reply #7 – May 08, 2025, 01:42:25 pm Quote from: RonB - May 08, 2025, 12:46:02 pmHi Dennis, Welcome back! So you said "The flame sounds normal for 10 seconds or so." Then what? Does it fade away, or abruptly shut off?Do the flames on the cooktop look normal? I'm wondering if you have a pressure regulator problem or some contamination in the propane. If your space heater works normally then the issue probably is with the water heater. RonBPropane pressure regulators wear and age, eventually needing replacement. The fabric diaphragm inside the regulators hardens and cracks. If this happens, you can get a nice propane leak. Consider replacing it if your LD still has the original.The propane systems should be set at 11 inch/pound H2O with two propane appliances running. I run the water heater and furnace` during the pressure adjustment. If you try to adjust the pressure with nothing running, the pressure will be too low for the proper operation of any of the propane appliances.A manometer of some sort is needed. A traditional manometer is made of tubing and is very accurate and easy to make. YouTube has many videos on how to build one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gsI6wOeqRlII use an electronic manometer I bought 12 years ago. Its readings match the old tubing manometer I made a few decades ago.Amazon.com: PerfectPrime AR1890 Professional Digital Air Pressure Meter &...If you are not willing or qualified to deal with the potential dangers of working with propane, have a professional install and/or set the pressure. We don't want anyone or anything getting hurt.Larry 1 Likes As an Amazon Associate Lazy Daze Owners' Group earns from qualifying purchases.
Re: Water heater Reply #8 – May 08, 2025, 01:58:30 pm Thanks Larry, I will get a new regulator. Hope that's the problem.
Re: Water heater Reply #9 – May 08, 2025, 02:04:57 pm Quote from: dfr - May 08, 2025, 01:58:30 pmThanks Larry, I will get a new regulator. Hope that's the problem.It's not necessarily the cause of your propane problem but changing the old regulator is a good preventative maintenance item. If original, 26 years is a long time.Larry
Re: Water heater Reply #10 – May 23, 2025, 03:02:42 pm Thanks for the information very helpful I just bought a 1985 lazy daze in amazing condition original interior a couple fixes but other than that it’s great
Re: Water heater Reply #11 – May 24, 2025, 12:55:11 am Quote from: AlasJasmine - May 23, 2025, 03:02:42 pmThanks for the information very helpful I just bought a 1985 lazy daze in amazing condition original interior a couple fixes but other than that it’s greatWelcome aboard.There are still a few of us who owned 1980 era LDs and still remember how things work and break.Let us know if you have questions.One point, make absolutely sure the roof, end caps, and, most importantly, the front window and cap seams are well sealed.Almost every pre-1990 LD I have looked at or worked on had front-end rot from leaks around the window and front cap seams. The front corners are particularly susceptible to leaks and rot.Larry
Re: Water heater Reply #12 – July 05, 2025, 12:52:10 pm Quote from: dfr - May 07, 2025, 12:01:09 pm Water heater will not light for more than s few seconds. It is trying 3 time before lockout. I have replaced everything except the off on switch and tank. Any ideas what is wrong. Dennis Hi AllReplaced the propane regulator, still did not work.Looked at the exhaust vent, there was a black mud daubers nest plugging the entire tube at the end, cleaned it out, still did not work.Had my new circuit board checked, it was no good, bought a new one, still did not work.Everything was new including solenoid valve, circuit board, thermal cut off kit including new EOC thermostats, spark probe gap set at 1/8", propane regulator, still did not work.Finally checked the connection between the bracket that holds the main burner to the flue tube, the hole was stripped, so the screw would not tighten, I cleaned both surfaces and used a larger screw and added vent covers to the exhaust tube.Problem fixed, works like new!Thanks again everyone for you help 5 Likes
Re: Water heater Reply #14 – July 05, 2025, 09:45:42 pm Quote from: Andy Baird - July 05, 2025, 06:29:11 pmSo, bad ground?One of the most common causes of the failure of water heaters to ignite or stay lit.Larry 2 Likes
Re: Water heater Reply #15 – July 05, 2025, 10:23:05 pm Yes it was a bad ground the screw would not tighten, so the two pieces would wobble and not make a good groundDennis 2 Likes
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