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Topic: Thoughts On Towing and Hitch Hardware Reinforcement (Read 2216 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: My Thoughts On Towing
Reply #25 –
Quote from: Terry Burnes  - 
For instance, our 2003, which may be newer than Larry's 2003 and is certainly newer than Art's 2002, came standard with Grade 8 bolts attaching the receiver to the chassis/bumper.

For what it's worth, I'm certain that the bolts on our '09 MB were Grade 5 bolts and they showed signs of deterioration and wear.  Before I replaced them with Grade 8 bolts, I checked the OEM bolts with a bolt chart and they all had Grade 5 markings.  So perhaps the Factory switched to Grade 8 bolts at some point then changed back to Grade 5 bolts?
Re: My Thoughts On Towing
Reply #26 –
Quote from: Terry Burnes  - 
I believe Art, "Older Fossil," had some problems that were one example.

The problem we had was not with the attachment to the frame rails, but rather how the receiver was mounted and our particular situation.  With our stock Jeep Wrangler, the tow bar was pretty close to level.  But building the Jeep up for offroading, lifted the baseplate nearly four inches and put the weight close to 4,000 lbs.  To get the tow bar level, we added a 4" inverted drop receiver.  This created a long lever that put a lot of torque into the receiver.  The receiver was basically mounted below a square steel box at the center of the bumper and the torque started to deform the bottom of this box.  The solution was to straighten everything and weld some steel angle stock across the bottom of the bumper to strengthen this area from deforming.  It then seemed to behave fine for many thousands of miles of towing after this.  We happened to be in upstate New York when this started to be noticeable.  Luckily we were visiting a friend who knew a local welder.
Art and Barbara
Settled in Atterdag Village of Solvang
2015-2022 fulltime in a 2016 Tiffin Allegro Bus 37AP
2002-2015 2002 LD MB
Art's blog
Re: My Thoughts On Towing
Reply #27 –
Stack this in the 'For what it's worth' column...

A grade 5 bolt head will have three (3) hash marks, while a grade 8 bolt head will have (5) hash marks.

Like I said, FWIW!   8)
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: Thoughts On Towing and Hitch Hardware Reinforcement
Reply #28 –
I know this is an old topic but I wanted to bring up a safety concern regarding the use of lifting eye bolts as attachment points for the safety chains. Lifting eye bolts are designed to be used at 0° relative to the axis of the bolt shaft. Most can be used safely from 0-45° although the strength rating falls off exponentially. I am not aware of any lifting eye bolts designed for use from 45-90° off axis as they are show being used in the pictures below here.

If a lifting eye bolt is rated for 5000 pounds at 0° it generally will be rated for 25% of that amount, or 1250 pounds, at 45°. Has anyone devised a safer solution since this this was originally posted? Shoulder eye bolts with broader shoulders are slightly stronger but still far too weak since those are static loads. When a vehicle breaks away now there is a larger dynamic load that must be considered. I would hate to see a bad problem become worse if a towed vehicle breaks away from it's primary connection and the safety system fails too. :(



Chet in Yorktown, Virginia
Re: Thoughts On Towing and Hitch Hardware Reinforcement
Reply #29 –
See that large hole in the lower surface of the bumper, one on each side of the hitch?  I put a large shackle in those holes, with the safety cable eye loops in the shackle.  No eye bolts.

Ken F in WY
'08 MB
Re: Thoughts On Towing and Hitch Hardware Reinforcement
Reply #30 –
"Lifting eye bolts are designed to be used at 0° relative to the axis of the bolt shaft."

Good point, well taken!   :o
Steve S.
Lazy Bones & Cedar
2004 30'IB (Island Bed)
Yesterday is History, Tomorrow is a Mystery
Live for the day!
Re: Thoughts On Towing and Hitch Hardware Reinforcement
Reply #31 –
Went out an snapped this under my 2013 31 IB.  The mothership welded a bar across the hole.   I suppose the could have welded it on top for a bit more security, but this seems workable.

Joel
Joel & Terry Wiley
2013  31 IB   ORWAN   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE
Re: Thoughts On Towing and Hitch Hardware Reinforcement
Reply #32 –
I knew the 5/8" diameter eyebolts were not the perfect solution but they were on hand and beefy enough that something violent enough to break them is probably something I want to get way from. The breakaway cable is short enough to pull out of the brake switch before the safety cables fully tighten.
Out in the desert, I have intentionally driven short distances, at low speeds, with the hitch popped of the ball (I know, old school) to see what would happened and to adjust things.
The tow bar drops in the cradle provided by the crossing of the safety cables, the breakaway switch activates the Jeeps brake's and lights up a bright bulb on the LD's dash. It was rather undramatic .
Once the breakaway cable's and safety cable were set to the right length, there is little banging or major contact between the toad and LD. The tow bar swings under the bumper and the safety cables restrict it from moving forward more than a few inches . When setting up the safety cables, I try to keep them as short as possible and still provide adequate movement.

Looking deeper into this, a simple way of solving the side pull issue is to use a weld-on, tie-down designed for pull from various angles.
These should work.
McMaster-Carr
Have a qualified welder burn them on.

Larry
Larry
2003 23.5' Front Lounge, since new.  Previously 1983 22' Front Lounge.
Tow vehicles  2020 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon, 2001 Jeep Cherokee
Photo Collection: Lazy Daze
 
Re: Thoughts On Towing and Hitch Hardware Reinforcement
Reply #33 –
Joel and Larry - I agree with regards to welding on a piece of rod or a ring for a connection. Does LD now weld that rod on the bottom of all the new rigs?
Chet in Yorktown, Virginia