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Topic: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse (Read 2120 times) previous topic - next topic
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Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #25 –
A few specific answers about your engine:

First, invest in a service manual for your van and engine. Check Amazon for used copies -- get the one specific for vans and/or cutaways. This will give you an idea how much work is involved to fix the various mechanical problems you're describing. Some you can do yourself, assuming some basic old car tinkering experience, others are best left to a mechanic.

Be aware that a lot of dealers don't work on RVs, or don't work on vehicles as old as yours. That means finding an independent repair shop that is willing to work on it and won't rip you off. Being female and inexperienced means that they'll at least try. If you know the proper terminology and you can describe the troubleshooting steps you've already tried (which is why you should have a service manual) you'll look like less of a victim.

The sure sign of a blown head gasket (or possibly a cracked block) is to look at the fluid in the radiator. Wait until the engine is cold (e.g. first thing in the morning after driving the previous day) then remove the radiator cap. If the fluid looks like a chocolate milkshake, coolant from the radiator is mixing with oil from the crankcase and this is officially Bad News. Engine's going to have to come out and being a van chassis this is a lot more work and money than on a normal vehicle.

If it's using oil, blue smoke from the tailpipe most often means bad piston rings or a severely worn out engine. Oil all over the place without blue smoke means a bad oil leak. Could be a blown seal or a leaky gasket from the oil pan or valve covers. Take it tou a coin op car wash and spray off as much of the crud as you can under the hood and underside of the coach to make it easier to locate leaks. Put a big sheet of cardboard under the engine and transmission overnight -- the location of the oil spots will be more informative if you cleaned up that area first.

Leaky gaskets are not terribly hard to service but it's a dirty job to DIY. Blown seals are much tougher especially with a van chassis as the engine will have to come out and if it's that bad you may as well just replace it with a new or rebuilt engine. In the meantine carry lots of oil with you and check your oil regularly -- daily before driving it. Don't wait for the oil light to come on or your engine will suffer badly.

Once you know how much oil you're leaking, you can judge whether it's cheaper to fix it or just keep putting oil in it. You can buy a lot of rerefined motor oil for the cost of pulling the engine from a van. Yes it sucks environmentally, but if you have to choose between your personal security and an oil leak, spend that money on you not your vehicle. Spread cat litter under the leaks and sweep it up regularly if you worry about leaving a mess where you're parked.

RV air conditioners are expensive, power hungry and loud. Shop for a small household window A/C and stick it through the kitchen window once you're parked with access to shore power. So called portable air conditioners don't work nearly as well and are more expensive than a plain window unit.

Squealing dash a/c is either a loose belt or a bad bearing. Assume all the belts and hoses are old and rotten and need replacing. Not a cheap repair but it's one less thing that can leave you stranded and vulnerable. If it's a bad fan bearing, it could be easy to find and fix or it could be a nightmare that requires removing the entire dash assembly.

If it sputters on acceleration, it could be all kinds of things. A worn out carburetor, fouled plugs (take one out and look at it) from either oil or too-rich fuel mixture, a dirty air filter, and a lot of other possibilities. Read your service manual for troubleshooting tips.

A locksmith can get the broken locks open and repaired. Amazon has a nice selection: Amazon.com : ch 751 lock cylinder In my opinion there's almost no point rekeying those locks for "security reasons" -- if someone wants whatever is in the compartments that their universal key won't open, they'll take a crowbar to it and leave you with a lot more damage than the value of whatever stuff they steal.

As for the odometer, no clue. If it's mechanical it's probably been tampered with; if it's digital maybe that's as far as it goes once it reaches 100,000 miles which makes no sense to me but then neither did the Y2K bug.

I am sure on reflection there are things you might have done differently with regard to your purchase, but it is what it is. Take the time now to prioritize what's worth fixing and what isn't. Safety always comes first -- tires, brakes and steering can put you in the ditch on your side and wreck you and everything inside your coach.

Fire is the enemy of RVs and their people.  Find your emergency exits and practice using them -- they're no good to you if you can't escape when you need to. Inside the coach, make sure the wiring is in good condition, fuses and breakers are correct for the circuits they control, and there are no gas leaks. All these are fire and explosion risks, and once a fire starts you will lose the coach and everything inside, if not to the fire itself, then to smoke and water damage.

RV fridges are another potential hazard. If you're using the fridge, get an RV tech to go over it and make sure it's working properly. Fridge failures can release ammonia gas or start a fire. Install carbon dioxide, propane and smoke detectors and check them regularly.

If you're street camping, take care to keep your rig clean and free from clutter both inside and out. Don't store personal belongings or trash outside the rig. Learn how to be a stealth camper -- the Home on Wheels Alliance website has lots of tips -- separate day and night parking places for example, and doing the best you can to maintain a tidy and respectable appearance. It's getting tougher all the time thanks to homeless camps taking over neighborhoods.
fu
2015TK
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #26 –
Quote from: HiLola  - 
If it’s a single battery, it should be 12 volts. Do you have a multimeter?
I do not and the use for one has been plaguing me for years. Perhaps it's time one is acquired...

However yes this is a 12 volt per google search for specs It's a flooded Lead-acid. So I think I need distilled water perhaps it's dry?
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #27 –
Quote from: GypsyMickey  - 
I do not and the use for one has been plaguing me for years. Perhaps it's time one is acquired...

However yes this is a 12 volt per google search for specs It's a flooded Lead-acid. So I think I need distilled water perhaps it's dry?

Yes, use distilled water. Available in gallon jugs at Walmart and drugstores. Assume there's also corrosion on the terminals and get something to clean that up and protect them. The automotive department will have the right kind of grease for the terminals.

ALWAYS wear eye protection when dealing with batteries. Carefully remove the caps over the cells and look. If you can see the top of the plates, you are definitely low on water. Add in small amounts from a measuring cup or syringe until the water makes a () shape, no higher. Overfilling the battery is bad for it too.
fu
2015TK
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #28 –
You might call a local automotive parts store to see if they can load test it. Let them know it’s a RV “house” battery, not an engine starting battery.

You can pick up a basic multimeter, which should do just fine, at Harbor Freight:

https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #29 –
Quote from: GypsyMickey  - 
1. Driving about 55 minutes with my buddy tailing me in my car left my windshield soaked in oil. My buddy said it had been coming from the exhaust the whole trip. The exhaust is a 90-degree pipe behind the left rear tires. A trip to a parts store for spark plugs resulted in the clerks and manager refusing to sell and suggesting I instead call a lawyer and use the lemon law...I don't know why they think it applies to privately sold anything, but they said the head gasket must be blown.

Won't sell you the plugs? Oil out the exhaust typically not associated with a blown head gasket - more likely leaky valve seals. Anyway, the oil would foul the plugs, causing misfires. In our '83 I would replace the plugs at least yearly, and they would be a mess. Note too leaks from multiple places from the engine are common with a poorly kept 350 block, and could end up on a following vehicle.

Steve
2004 FL
2013 Honda Fit
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #30 –
Here's a page about how to choose and use a digital multimeter. Any meter is better than none at all, but if you get one with autoranging (unlike the Harbor Freight cheapies), it'll be a lot simpler and easier to use.

And before you put too much money into making this rig livable, I strongly suggest getting the drivetrain diagnosed. If it turns out that you need a new engine and/or transmission, that's likely going to cost more than you paid for the rig--and you'll still have a 35-year-old motorhome with lots of other problems. In that case you'd be better off unloading it and looking for a better rig. Can your car tow a trailer? A decent used trailer is a lot less expensive than a decent used motorhome, and a trailer has a lot less to go wrong.

I'm just saying: before you put more time, work, and money into this rig, have the drivetrain thoroughly checked out.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #31 –
UPDATE:

This is quite the trooper of RVs. It made an hour trip today overloaded by all my crap. At times sounded like it would split in half, but never broke or cracked. The front brakes squealed a bit, those poor guys were in some stop and go traffic for about 40 minutes. Got it to a campsite and quickly
learned how to work the hose, the retractable 30-amp shore power, and made a sewage and grey water dump opting to use the same hose (only one I found that actually fit) and opting to close them back up instead of fashion some permanent PVC fixture as many neighbors were doing.

Everything worked! All except for the overhead A/C, but that's OK because the seller provided a portable A/C and it's kinda chilly rn in FL anywho. Tomorrow, after I secure funding for my next night, awaiting a few withdrawals from my crypto accounts to clear (praise be to the plasma industry) I will give the engine a good check, checking fluids, belts, and generally cutting my teeth on a vintage van engine. I added water to the deep cycle battery I found and That's seems to have done quite the job on the charging system. Also plan to pop the other two compartments I can't access, but was able to open one by bending the door away from the latch (the lock wouldn't turn and wouldn't fully accept my key). By process of elimination this one must be my fresh water inlet hose, though It seemed devoid of any valve....It was a door and then a large white hose going in and up...I definitely found the sewage and grey water because I dumped them and I wouldn't think they'd keep fresh water tanks right next to sewage tanks... But idk I'll need to consult the manual for clarification.

Long story short, my panic about this being non functional was premature. I'll be removing the overhead A/C and replacing with solar paneling as long as the weight is comparable, but that's a distant project. Still need to replace the compartment locks and give the engine and chassis a real good inspection/overhaul, but things are looking up and I even decided on a name for this rig....

She'll be known from now on as "The Gravy Train"
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #32 –
Quote from: GypsyMickey  - 
UPDATE:

Long story short, my panic about this being non functional was premature. I'll be removing the overhead A/C and replacing with solar paneling as long as the weight is comparable, but that's a distant project. Still need to replace the compartment locks and give the engine and chassis a real good inspection/overhaul, but things are looking up and I even decided on a name for this rig....

She'll be known from now on as "The Gravy Train"
Traveling, camping and even with some repairs past, present and future you have saved tens of thousands of dollars buying that older RV.  Keep money set aside to address issues that come up to keep it a positive experience.
Steve and Jill, Steve posting
1999 26.5 Mid-Bath
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #33 –
Quote from: GypsyMickey  - 
made a sewage and grey water dump opting to use the same hose (only one I found that actually fit) and opting to close them back up instead of fashion some permanent PVC fixture as many neighbors were doing.
Congratulations, you’re doing it right.

Black and Grey tanks are designed to dumped when pretty full, and not kept open continuously.  Solids will tend to stay behind if the tanks are left open, leading to nasty clogs (poop pyramids).   Be generous with water when using the toilet so there is plenty of liquid to move things along.
Dave

2017 TK
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #34 –
Some (many?) of us do not connect grey/black water dump hoses except when we use them.  Grand Canyon trip decades ago, I was advised ravens would mistake hoses for tasty, giant worms. At least until they'd pecked enough holes to make them useless. This is a great tidbit to learn second hand.
Joel
Joel & Terry Wiley
2013  31 IB   ORWAN   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #35 –
Quote from: joel wiley  - 
Some (many?) of us do not connect grey/black water dump hoses except when we use them.  Grand Canyon trip decades ago, I was advised ravens would mistake hoses for tasty, giant worms. At least until they'd pecked enough holes to make them useless. This is a great tidbit to learn second hand.
Joel
I have wondered why so many people connect when they arrive. Many places we camp at have a dump station and we don't have the sewer hole on our site. But the sites that do have sewer on site I don't know why, unless they are staying for a long time. I connect up and dump just before we leave and then put everything away. I see no reason to have it sit out in the elements for days.
Steve and Jill, Steve posting
1999 26.5 Mid-Bath
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #36 –
Hi Steve;  I can only think that some don't manage their water very well and take long showers, or a few times per day.  11:00 at night with soap in your hair would be a bad time to run out of fresh water, or for the gray tank to be full!  Many occupants/children might complicate water management.  Visiting adults that don't have experience at managing water for instance.    RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #37 –
Possibly to make sure they have all the parts and pieces they need?  

I occasionally put the hoses out and leave the valves closed, especially when camping with our now adult kids.   They know that hookups means unlimited water and sewer and take advantage.  It's easier to open to gray gate for a minute then close it as needed with longer showers.   They can do it when I'm not around.   Makes it easier for everyone. 

Rich
2003 MB
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #38 –
UPDATE: Was able to spend a lot more time today, but learned some things last night also.

Last night, tried to use the oven. The dial is weird, Pilot On is clockwise from OFF and all the temps are counter clockwise, starting with Broil. it won't turn clockwise at all, even when pushed in, so when I push in and turn to Pilot On, I did see the pilot light flame, then a few moments later the burner lit with the cascading flame, then I had to turn the dial back and OFF is unavoidable. Even so, I managed to go fast enough that nothing bf turned off, set my temp and then checked it 2 minutes later - out. Tried again...same thing.

i pulled the knob off at some point but now I can't even get the pilot to light although I think I may now be out of gas because my furnace is also not working tonight, however, my water is still hot. ::head scratch::

I got the forbidden compartments open, found more hosing, an extra dump hose so I can have a grey and a black water one, but only one fits in the handy dandy storage tube. Also found elbows so I can return the one I purchased. Found more electrical cords and extensions, some tools, a replacement awning canopy, AND a rotten bottom board. The back of the compartment floor was OK, but the front is completely rotted and falling in pieces.

Maybe a few new beams and some plywood to fix, nbd, but is there an upgrade for this? thin stainless steel? like sheet metal maybe? plastics or fiberglass? i can work with wood and it's relatively cheap, but if Im gonna replace anything structure-wise, I would like to future proof it if possible.

The biggest issue though is that my water inlet has been leaking on the ground and after trying grommets, rescue tape, silicon tape, and a new hose, I discovered the interior inlet leaks. There's a plastic coupler on a non flex line and thread tape couldn't fix the leak there but rescue tape and thread tape did turn it into a drip that makes about a pint in 3 hours so it's manageable, but I'm just turning the source off unless I need it and have a small dish positioned to catch the drips. Towels are drying the interior floor in the cupboard and hopefully the cavity between the exterior and interior doesn't rot away.

The exterior drips were running into my LP gas service port and rusting that whole welded frame bit, so anticipating a worst case scenario or the tank rusting itself free and becoming a flammable road hazard during travel, I think I also need to upgrade this to maybe a removable tank secured by straps and positioned for the service ports to still function or maybe just get some new metal and re-weld the tank? not sure, I can weld, but am not a welder and I'm not thrilled about the idea of welding a potentially combustible tank of propane, no matter how empty experts claim it is...

So I got a lot done today but also discovered much more needs to be done. the gravy train keeps on pouring.
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #39 –
I would treat your current propane supply as a non replaceable resource for now, as finding some to fill it is likely difficult based on these google results from “35 year old rv propane tank”:

Key Considerations for a 35-Year-Old Tank:
DOT Cylinders (Removable): If the tank is a 20lb/30lb vertical cylinder, it is long past its 12-year inspection limit. It must be recertified by a professional or replaced. Exchange programs (like Blue Rhino) are a common way to swap out old tanks.
ASME Tanks (Permanently Mounted): These have thicker, welded, and more durable shells, typically used on Class A/C motorhomes. While they do not have a mandatory "expiration date," 35-year-old tanks should be thoroughly inspected for heavy corrosion, leaks at the valves, and proper functioning of the gauge.

Safety Check: Check the tank collar for a stamp indicating the manufacturer date. If it is from 1991 or earlier, it is likely best to replace it due to age-related wear.

Component Failure: The regulator and valves on a 35-year-old tank are highly likely to have degraded and should be replaced for safety.

Do not attempt to fill a rusted, damaged, or severely outdated tank yourself. Take it to a qualified propane professional.
Dave

2017 TK
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #40 –
It would be helpful to post photos of some of the issues your talking about to help us understand better. The Site Instructional Guide section of the forum explains how to do that:

Site Instructional Guides

Is your propane tank the vertical, removable type or the horizontal, permanent type?
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #42 –
"The biggest issue though is that my water inlet has been leaking on the ground and after trying grommets, rescue tape, silicon tape, and a new hose, I discovered the interior inlet leaks."

Simple solution: don't use it. Seriously, hooking up directly to campground water is a poor idea for a number of reasons, and most people I know don't do it. Instead, we fill our water tank, draw from that using the water pump, and refill as necessary. This avoids issues such as algae growth in exposed water hose, frozen water hose in winter, and leaking or burst indoor plumbing (especially in an older rig!) due to excessive campground water pressure.
Andy Baird
2021 Ford Ranger towing 2019 Airstream 19CB
Previously: 1985 LD Twin/King "Gertie"; 2003 LD Midbath "Skylark"
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #43 –
What Andy said.

After seeing the photo of your propane tank, I’m concerned you may have a problem getting it filled due to the rust issues.
Greg & Victoria
2017 Mid-Bath  “Nocona” towing a manual 2015 Forester
Previously a 1985 TK
SKP #61264
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #44 –
I have the leak fixed.

I think propane is going to be a challenge as I find lots of small tanks that I assume previous owner used to fill the tank on his own either bc of being denied at a fill station or bc they're difficult to find. I'll probably end up doing the same for the rest of this winter.
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #45 –
Hi GypsyMickey;  You have an ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineering) horizontal propane tank.  While it looks pretty rusty, it should do for now.  Try to clean some rust off and look for deep pin holes of rust that might be leaking. Primer and paint the worst parts.  When your heater is running, cooking, water heating, the propane inside is vaporizing. It uses warmth of the tank to do this. The tank gets cold and will 'sweat' in humid locations (Florida) and that gets the rust started. Salt on the roads in the 'snow belt' can accelerate this rust. Rocks continually pelt the tank as you drive, chipping the paint. Mine is mounted just aft of the driver side duals, so that doesn't help matters.
    Those small tanks, one gallon, were likely used for a barbeque, or lantern, or some other appliance not presently there. Trying to hook those up is a waste of time. Better to get a small 2-3 gallon DOT tank such as used for barbeques that can be refilled remotely, and properly connect fittings to attach it into your propane system.
    Getting propane back into your onboard systems takes patience, if you ran out. The pilot position of the knob on the oven keeps it going (very small flame) so you don't have to relight it every time you use the oven. With propane in your tank and main lines, use a stovetop lit burner, to get propane in and air out of your lines. Some older space heaters might have a pilot that you would need to light. The refrigerator also has a very small line that takes many re-tries to get the pilot to stay lit.
    This brings up the topic of propane, smoke and carbon monoxide alarms.  Make sure you have them, and that they work. A small portable fire extinguisher is required also to be on-board.     RonB
RonB (Bostick) living in San Diego
Original owner of "Bluebelle" a '99 TKB
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #46 –
Excellent advice and info. Your tank maintenance tips are indispensable.

My manual says pretty much the same things you have, but never elaborates on alternative ways to handle the propane, just the safety precautions, and then "use a fill station". I see everyone else with the portables and I'll grab one for sure, maybe two.

The manual also says that the fridge will run off AC power, but it needs the propane to initially cool as the AC power can only maintain temp, not efficient at cooling it from warmth.

I'm assuming the water heater follows the same sort of switching or I'm underestimating the size of that tank, because furnace hasn't fired for 3 days and yet still have hot water, but no oven and haven't tried range recently.
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #47 –
Quote from: GypsyMickey  - 
The manual also says that the fridge will run off AC power, but it needs the propane to initially cool as the AC power can only maintain temp, not efficient at cooling it from warmth.

In my 12 years of having a 2000 30 IB when preparing for a trip I turn the fridge on the day before I leave on AC. It always cooled my fridge to the same temps that propane did.

YMMV
Jerry
Jerry Galang
Meridian, ID 83646
 
Re: RVing Newbie - Feeling lost, overwhelmed, and bad buyer's remorse
Reply #48 –
I normally turn the reefer on a few days before the trip.  Propane is NOT on, maybe it cools inefficiently.
Last upgrade included a 300AH lithium battery & 2K inverter.  Initial test was to chill reefer via inverter.  It cooled down nicely overnight, although it took a bit more than 200AH to do so.  Part of the test was solar recover rate - that didn't go as well as hoped - we got 9 days straight of atmospheric river rainfall.    ::)
Reefer is 2013 vintage, may differ from OP's.
Joel & Terry Wiley
2013  31 IB   ORWAN   / 2011 CRV Tow'd LWEROVE