Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

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Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

March 30, 2025, 06:24:11 pm

I would like to replace our original 2003 Air Conditioning unit with something newer, quieter, and more efficient.

One of the latest and greatest in the internet RV world seems to be the Turbro inverter 13.5K heatpump unit.

TURBRO Inverter RV AC with Heat Pump, 13,500 BTU, Quiet, Remote/WiFi-Controlled

By chance, has anyone here installed one on their LazyDaze and is willing to provide feedback, particularly involving fit and how well the 13.5k heats/cools a 27' coach?

Rich

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #1 – March 31, 2025, 09:21:00 am

Might draw more amperage than the original or the RecPro Houghton.
I didn't see the sound level listed.

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #2 – March 31, 2025, 01:28:36 pm

Turbo is a brand I have not heard of. I'm not sure who owns the company, what its reputation is, or, more importantly, where to get warranty service if needed.
The switch to an efficient, variable-speed compressor is the upgrade we have waited for. Now, they need to make the interior fan variable speed, as opposed to the Turbo's single-speed fan. The reduction in overall power usage is impressive.
Too bad Turbo's site does not show much usable specs, especially on the power usage and noise levels. I found an RV blog that lists some of this important information.
https://www.mortonsonthemove.com/turbro_ac_review/

Besides the lack of a track record, not being available in a larger 15,000 BTU model (or bigger) is disappointing. Our 24' FL could use a larger A/C, as the Factory 13,500 BTU A/C has a hard time keeping the rig cool in very hot conditions, the type we see every summer. I believe Rich lives in a hot, humid climate, his larger LD needs even more cooling than our short 24' model.
Keep us posted on the results, our 22-year-old A/C is going to need replacement eventually.

Larry

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #3 – March 31, 2025, 02:44:55 pm

The advertising is underwhelming. "Good for a top temperature of 109 degrees!" Lot's of times I've been in higher temperatures in the 110 to 119 range, just where I live. Much worse in Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas. Many of those states also have more humidity.
   "Good for RV's and food trucks up to 23 feet!" OK I just barely comply with the 23' part. The model RV they show has few and small windows. I suspect the heat load is worse inside with Lazy Daze's larger windows.
   Dual motors are nice. One rotary compressor for the cooling fluid. They are all rotary compressors now. The R32 they mention is the new flammable stuff. Special certification for anyone working on it, And special tools and licenses. So many east coast places don't want you in tunnels or on bridges with propane tanks. What about flammable roof top air conditioners?
   I'm not sure what the inverter hype is about. They use an AC power to run an adjustable DC powered motor for the compressor and fan? OK better operation when the plug in power droops to 100VAC.
   The small roof top package is nice, but small space usually reduces the heat transfer efficiency. Not good for best air conditioner operation.
   Really they need to up the game from 15,000 BTUH to 17k or 18k BTUH systems. 13.5k BTUH systems are for small vans, no, or few windows. RonB

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #4 – March 31, 2025, 03:16:14 pm

It might seem odd at first glance to worry about power consumption for a RV.   I go back and forth.

On the one hand, I never pay for metered electricity at campsites and I can't imagine that running the generator uses any less fuel for the power differences we're talking about.   On the other hand, I'd love to be able to reliably run the A/C on a solid 15amp outlet.   I can sometimes do that with our current system, if I'm the only thing on the circuit and the voltage drops aren't excessive.

Somewhere in the back of my mind is a power system upgrade and it would be nice to run the A/C off batteries one day after I upgrade from my lead acid golf carts to lithium (and expand).

I live in the Southeast, but I'm not out RVing during the hottest months of the year.   We also have shade at most summer campsites around here. We do travel across the US, but again not in the summer if we can help it.   I would welcome the heat pump heating as an improvement over the heat strips I have now.

GREE makes another inverter (I think) RV A/C (Eco-Cool), but I don't love the way it intrudes into the space below the ceiling.   Not an issue for most people, but I'm tall and don't have much room to spare in the LD. Also the air vents seem tiny.

If I went with a non-inverter unit, the Houghton Rec-Pro seems like a fine choice.   I'm also considering the Furion Chill.

I'm aware that the Turbro might be underpowered on the hottest days.   I'll have to look into that a bit more.

Rich

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #5 – March 31, 2025, 05:01:17 pm

"Keep us posted on the results, our 22-year-old A/C is going to need replacement eventually.
Larry"

Larry,
February I replaced my Dometic AC with the 15K BTU RecPro. What an improvement! The install was easier since the wall thermostat is not used but is replaced with a remote control. Just connect the AC wiring. It is very noticeably quieter than the Dometic, particularly the compressor sound turning on & off. The long bolts are not needed but a little widening (1/8") of part of the 14" roof hole is needed for the shorter four bolts. The vibrating saw did that for me. It is also lighter than the Dometic and somewhat easier to get up on the roof. It was also very easy to get the Dometic off the roof, we just threw it as far from the LD as possible. :-) I found that the easy start was not needed. Conversations with friends is much easier as with the lower fan noise level. Sleeping is much better for the same reason. Here are photos of it in place in our 27' RB.

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #6 – March 31, 2025, 06:17:11 pm

The thing that is most interesting thing about the Turbo 13.5K A/C is that it is the first model available in the US that has a variable speed, inverter-driven compressor. This means the compressor can run at a low speed once the cabin is cool enough, eliminating the annoying stopping and starting of the A/C's compressor, especially at night. Variable speed means the A/C can maintain an even inside temperature, without temperature swings as the compressor cycles on and off.
No one else that I know in the US is selling a variable speed compressor RV A/C. Now, if they would add a variable speed fan and upgrade future units to 15K BTU or bigger that can still run on 120 VAC, I would be interested.

Adding a soft-start to our LD's A/C has eliminated the continued damage and the noise associated with thumping compressor restarts. Any future A/C for our LD will have either a soft-start or an inverter drive, preferably an inverter.

Larry

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #7 – March 31, 2025, 06:40:38 pm

I thought I would add a comment about the one-speed circulation fan - that might not be such a detriment for non-ducted installations like ours. The single location requires enough airflow to distribute the output throughout to keep inside temperature acceptable throughout the rig. Insulation in the rigs is minimal for handling the temperature extremes, so the more effective the output circulation the better the overall temperature regulation. For properly ducted systems, a variable speed fan would allow quieter operation without leaving hot or cold zones.

Steve

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #8 – March 31, 2025, 09:58:54 pm

Doing a little search on Turbro regarding who owns it, the country of origin, and any other pertinent facts has produced next to nothing. Its American owner is registered by DomainsByProxy.com, 2155 E Warner Rd, Arizona, as private. No additional information appears to be available other than Amazon reviews. I assume Turbro is an Asian company that doesn't want to be identified as being so.
The lack of background information doesn't give me confidence that the company will be around if parts or service are needed after buying, YMMV

Larry

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #9 – April 04, 2025, 12:26:05 pm

Hi Rich; One thing I'm considering to cope with hookup sites but more heat than my 13.5k BTUH A/C can handle; is a second lightweight (45#) 12vDC air conditioner above the seating area. With the hookups, I can run the old Dometic and still have enough to have the converter (assisted by solar and LiF batteries) to, at peak heat times, (i.e. sunlight coming in the back windows, run an 8k Btuh roof air also.
   For those familiar with the T/K layout, unlike the MidBath, my only seating is in the back. That is also farthest from the Dometic ceiling unit. This A/C RV Air Conditioner, 12V 10000 BTU Rooftop Air Conditioner with Heater –... would fit the need. Also at Amazon for $946.
   And for just at peak hours from say 11:00 AM to 3:00 PM camping without hookups would spare me from the excessively loud Onan Emerald that I have. (much noisier than the MicroQuiet) most of you have. For campgrounds with generator hours and no hookups, This small A/C would fill in again for some night time cooling.
   Might as well use some of that extra capacity 400AH LiF and 550 Watt solar also. I have the roof space and the vent would be where the overhead florescent (now LED) light is now. It is unused because I put in a light underneath the cross storage cabinet to match the ones on each side.
   I know one other member put in a roof 12v DC Air/Con recently.   RonB   edit; that was JayWay.

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #10 – April 04, 2025, 04:17:13 pm

Here ya go, Ron. Just add water!

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #11 – April 05, 2025, 04:10:00 am

Hi Greg, I installed a RecAire swamp cooler on my previous (non LD) rig. It worked pretty well in dry weather, but used a lot of water and 12V. electricity. They didn't have Lithium batteries or efficient solar yet., so it is a non starter.
   I think the roof air at 10k BTUH, along with the 13.5k BTUH will beat any 110-120 degree heat. That's for hookups which I rarely seek out. 10k cooling right in the back where I sit, and sleep would be enough most times, and quieter.
   Remember that you do have the dual pane windows, I don't. (mine don't fog up either). I also don't have the block polyethylene insulation. I have fiberglass batting. I'm sure that has shifted inside the walls over the last 25 years.
   So for about $2k and 60# of A/C and wire, That makes 23.5k BTUH. I have more alternatives. The wiring can be totally concealed, and I can hook on to the 12vdc at my inverter, which is at the wheel well. (passenger side) #2 fine strand (real copper) welding cable with EPDM insulation. (made in USA too). For an extra $50 I can get a PTC heater built in also. The forward area of my passenger side storage can fit another 206 AH battery for 600AH total. Hard to use that area for much else. That sets me up for a 12vdc compressor freezer/refrigerator also. (I prefer a propane fridge though). RonB

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #12 – April 23, 2025, 09:40:11 pm

Turbro vs Furrion Chill Cube cage match.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQK7ycslSEw

Steve

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #13 – April 23, 2025, 10:53:36 pm

I ordered a Turbro, knowing it would be on backorder and wouldn't ship for a while.

They took my credit card, sent an email explaining the delay, and told me to expect it to ship around the end of April, first of May.

The website price has already increased for the next batch. Sign of the times I guess.

More later....

Rich

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #14 – June 19, 2025, 08:43:50 pm

I finished installing the Turbro Greenland inverter A/C today.

Some notes from the install:

(1) To remove the old A/C, I removed the inside portion of the A/C and used a reciprocating tool (from inside the coach) to cut the foam gasket in half.

(2) Under the foam gasket was a strip of butyl tape.   It came off easily and I replaced it with this: Amazon.com: LLPT Butyl Tape Black 2 Inch x 16.5 Feet 5mm Thickness Water...

(3) The 120v wiring was not in great shape. There were some brown spots from arcing and the were one spot where the white wire was touching the metal frame (no insulation). I was pleasantly surprised to find that LD had left plenty of extra wire (shocking!, pun intended) so it was no big deal to cut back to clean wire.   The original connections were made with wire nuts and secured with electrical tape.   I used Wago connectors upon reassembly.

(4) The vent opening was exactly 14"x14" while the new version called for 14.25" x 14.25.   I enlarged the hole slightly with a circular saw.

(5) Even after enlarging the vent, it was a struggle the get the inside portion of the new A/C to fit.   Most of the issue was caused by a section of copper pipe LD used to protect the 120v wire as it passed through the framing.   I ended up trimming the plastic on the new A/C a bit to make everything fit.

(6) I used a ladder, some straps, and a helper to get the old unit off the roof and the new unit onto the roof. Copied from others who have done the same.

(7) The new A/C has all kind of new technology compared to the 2003 Dometic my coach came with (inverter, heatpump, remote).   Still, it feels like an off brand overseas import.   There are lots of molded plastic clips and such and seem fragile. I didn't break any, but we will have to see how they hold up.

( As with most RV A/C units, there are 4 bolts that secure the bottom half to the top unit while sandwiching the roof.   1 of the 4 had a misthreaded nut on the top side.   I have to re-thread part of it and cut one of the 7" bolts shorter to get everything securely together.   This was a machining/manufacturing error.

(9) Once everything was installed, the A/C has been working great.   It cooled my coach from 89 degrees to 80 degrees in around 45min on a 92degree day while the coach was in the shade.   If left for longer, it would have cooled even further.   It remains to be seen if it can keep up in full sun on a 100 degree day. (rated for 13,500 BTU vs 15,000 for the original)

(10) See the video below for details and testing (not my video, but the same unit), but electricity consumption is way lower.   There is no start up spike (due to the inverter technology) and measured right about 10amps running full blast. This allowed me to run the A/C of a standard 15amp 120v household outlet using heavy cables.

(11) The A/C ramps up and down smoothly instead of switching on and off as the set point is reached.   This makes it more pleasant inside from a noise and cooling perspective.

(12) I'm looking forward to the heat pump feature.   I know many newer LDs already have this, but my 2003 only had heat strips.

Recent video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I__fHbYPbH0&ab_channel=AllAboutRV%27s

Rich

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Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #15 – August 06, 2025, 01:58:04 pm

Hi Rich, My installation of a 12VDC. rear roof air conditioner involved cutting a new hole in the ceiling. That was not without some challenges. The placement was very tight to not run off the back roof, or into a post supporting the baggage rack. After the 2000's, LD changed to just a ladder with no surrounding rack. Too far forward would intrude into the Fantastic vent fan. I wanted to keep that fan for outside air exchange. A delay of a month (a 3 week vacation out of country, visitors from out of town for a week+). set things back also. I also put in some other modifications along the way. Pictures for that when I finish.
For a fan change in the bathroom to a FFan (exhaust only), years ago I had a steel conduit protecting the wires. 12V not 110VAC like you had. Capped the wires and pushed them back in the hole, ground off the protruding pipe, and cleaned up. Managed to get the wires back out of the hole intact. RonB

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #16 – August 06, 2025, 03:25:07 pm

If I were to do the install again, I would grind back the metal pipe like you did.   My solution works, but a little of both (removing some from the pipe and some from the plastic of the new AC) would probably work better.

After using the Turbro AC on a 3 week trip, there are pros and cons.

(1) It generates a lot of cold air. More than the original it replaced. It's more efficient and smoother (no jolting off and on as the compressor kicked on which would occasionally wake us).

(2) It doesn't do as good a job of distributing that air into the back portion of the MB floorplan. There are forward and rearward vents for air distribution, but the air doesn't flow evenly across the width of either. It comes out strong on one side, and weaker on the other. The weak side facing rear directs to the hallway between the bath and closet that leads to the back room. We've taken to using a fan to distribute air on hot sunny days.   That works well, but I wish it wasn't needed.

(3) There some non-documented quirks that I'm still figuring out. For example, in AC mode the fan keeps blowing regardless of if the compressor is on or not. We prefer this while sleeping for white noise.   In heat mode, the fan seems to stop when the cabin temp reaches the set temp on the thermostat.

(4) The remote is great, but I sometimes have to push the button twice to get a change to register.   It also makes a beep when you change something (as an audible cue that the signal was received).   Not a huge deal, but not ideal if you're trying to adjust the temperature at night while someone is sleeping.

(5) Because of lower power consumption, I don't feel the need to turn the A/C off before running the microwave.   With our old unit, this combo would occasionally overload the electrical system and flip a breaker.

(6) It is quieter than the unit it replaced, but it's not 'quiet'. The noise is from moving air (vs mechanical noise) so I'm not sure how much can be done about this without a ducted air distribution system. There are 3 different fan speeds to select (or an auto mode where the unit selects the fan speed).

All in all, I'm pleased with the unit.   I wish the air distribution on hot days was better to the rear room of the mid-bath, but many floorplans won't have that issue.

Rich

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #17 – August 07, 2025, 04:12:15 am

Hi Rich, The Outequippro (summit 2) 10k btuh would work for you also. The T/K back lounge/dinette is pretty much the same as the Midbath, Especially if you have the fold up/down dinette table. I remember that you have the fantastic vent fan aft of another vent just forward about at the shower. You could move the fan forward and put the Outequip Pro in the back hole. RV Air Conditioner, 12V 10000 BTU Rooftop Air Conditioner with Heater –...
You would need to go full Lithium, but you should do that anyway. 400, 600 or 800 watt hours would be easy to do on the MB and 600-800 W of solar. RonB

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #18 – August 07, 2025, 06:42:38 am

RonB

I’ve considered it. For now I have 200w of solar and the standard 2 6v lead acid batteries. If I ever upgrade the power system, a 12v AC starts looking very attractive.

I appreciate you sharing your experience with it.

Rich

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #19 – August 07, 2025, 11:41:31 am

I think the daunting downside of a 12V MAJOR draw appliance such as this is wiring it through the rig with cabling designed to handle the 60 Amps it draws. 120VAC for this application is much less hassle.

Steve

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #20 – August 07, 2025, 11:48:54 am

Quote from: Steve - August 07, 2025, 11:41:31 am

I think the daunting downside of a 12V MAJOR draw appliance such as this in wiring it through the rig with cabling designed to handle the 60 Amps it draws. 120VAC for this application is much less hassle.

Steve

If you watch some install videos, a standard install runs the wiring across the roof, down the fridge vent, and to the batteries.

It removes some of the dread if you're comfortable with that routing. It's more similar to running wires for solar. Here's the quick version: https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Tp1mwAJ2iRI

Having enough space up top to replace a standard vent with a larger A/C unit without hitting a railing or an antenna is my biggest concern.

Rich

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #21 – August 07, 2025, 04:48:17 pm

Quote from: rich - August 07, 2025, 11:48:54 am

If you watch some install videos, a standard install runs the wiring across the roof, down the fridge vent, and to the batteries.

That is the problem - low voltage wiring is an extremely inefficient way to transfer power. From resistive losses you probably lose more energy powering this 12V air conditioner than you would running a 120VAC model from a 90% efficient, properly wired inverter.

A total cabling resistance of 0.05 Ohm at 58 Amps is a power loss of 168 Watts. Assuming a 15 Amp draw for a 13,500 BTU 120VAC unit, a cabling resistance of 0.1 Ohm would be a power loss of 22 Watts. This is assuming proper cabling and connections for both cases.

Steve

Re: Turbro inverter A/C - considering it

Reply #22 – August 08, 2025, 03:34:44 am

Hi Steve: Yes running the wiring could be a daunting task, but highly dependent on the floorplan. In my case, not so bad. First the wiring included with the OutEquip Pro, 10k btuh roof air, was #6 AWG. Peak currents as high as 90 Amps, but more in the 30A range much of the time. The 6ga wire is pretty flexible. In my case I opened up a hole 14.375" x 14.5" above the back table (dinette) and 'king' bed when made out to a bed. Since the ceiling was opened up, the wiring run is inside the ceiling over to the passenger side overhead storage cabinet. It stays against the overhead ceiling inside the compartment door and is only about 1" thick (two conductors, so 1" wide. It runs forward to the closet and enters at the ceiling, behind the clothes hanger bar, runs to the back wall (inside surface of the external wall) runs along the shelf across to the back corner of the closet, then down to the area behind the drawer. Across forward (behind the drawer) into the space, front of the wheel well, where I mounted the inverter. The wire there will change to the #2 AWG (fine strand EPDM insulation) cables that I had running from the inverter to the battery bank. I have a 130A set/reset breaker there at the batteries.
My inverter was experiencing some voltage sag with the microwave running. (120-130 A) So those wires back to the batteries (power and ground pair) will be upgraded to finely stranded '0' gauge wiring. (1/0). The two #2 already there, will connect to the new air conditioner, with buss bar screw ring terminals. So most of that run will be #2, much better than the #6 it came with.
Pictures are being taken. RonB edited 12/1 to reflect the actual wiring run. (still in progress).

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