Used Lazy Dazes Inspection Checklists, Tips, Recommendations, Discussions

Topic: Used Lazy Dazes Inspection Checklists, Tips, Recommendations, Discussions (Read 3919 times) previous topic - next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

February 09, 2017, 06:13:39 pm

Note: The following list is not my own but a paste from LDO files.

Kent

Used Lazy Daze purchase checklist 1999 Lazy Daze 23.5' TK

• Ask owner to turn on refrigerator (on LP gas) the day before inspection. There should be propane to test appliances.

• Wear clothes suitable for crawling under rig. Bring gloves, headlamp, small night light to test AC plugs (or a polarity checker).
Have a tarp available for crawling under coach.

Coach

• Does the rig sit level on level ground? No listing or leaning? Remember that it won't be perfectly level unless fully loaded, but severe listing should be checked out further.
• Make sure ladder is stable. Climb up on the roof and inspect the seams and roof penetrations. The sealant cracks naturally as it dries, but look for anyplace where it has cracked through or pieces are missing. If you find any significant gaps, check the inside ceiling carefully for any soft spots. Check to see if the previous owner tried to seal a leak using some different type of caulking.
• Check roof and walls for bubbles or very small whitish spots. This may indicate electrolysis, a condition caused by dampness inside the coach wall. Electrolysis corrodes the aluminum panel until small holes are worn through.
• Check solar panel. Solar panels could have cracked glass from rocks, hail, pinecones etc. Look for moisture inside the panels, corrosion inside on the metal collectors.
• Check air conditioner cover, TV antenna, all plumbing vents, refrigerator vent, roof vents. They should all be intact. Skylights? Screens? • Pay attention to leading and trailing edges of roof as that's where damage from low hanging trees, etc. is most likely.
• Sight down the sides of rig and look for uneven surfaces. LD's aluminum siding has a rippling appearance - that's normal. Large bulges are abnormal.
• Also inspect the outside paneling for electrolysis while checking for scratches, dings, signs of impact and paint fading/damage. Are there any stains, rust spots or areas of corrosion? Check that the Phillips screws are snug on the outside trim pieces.
• Check end caps for gaps. The end cap trim piece in the rear corners at eye level will often look bad. That's mostly cosmetic.

• Check wheel wells to see signs of tire blow-out damage. While here, check & make note of tire pressures. Check condition of sidewalls and tread. Look for abnormal or uneven wear on the tires.
(I already know age of tires) R. front ____ L. front ____ R. rear/outside ____ R. rear/inside ____ L. rear/outside ____ L. rear/inside ____
• Look at the rubber seals on the windows and the coach entry door.
Look for cracking or separation from glass. Check caulking. Look for cracking or gaps. Have the windows been caulked or re-sealed? This may indicate that they had leaks in the past, or it may be appropriate preventive maintenance. Check that the window weep hole covers are in place. (older than 2003) Missing covers let dirt accumulate and plug up the hole.
• Generator - check for obvious signs of oil leaks or other external damage. Run the generator (later).

• Awning – make sure it deploys. Check for tears or mildew.

• Step (electric or manual) – make sure it works.
• Storage compartments. Make sure all the locks function and latches are in place.

• Check the battery compartment for acid corrosion.
• INTERIOR: Check for water damage everywhere. Inspect closely for dry rot from leaking seams, roof penetrations, or windows. Look very carefully wherever water could get in and collect. Check around all windows, vents, and hatches. Look *everywhere* for discoloration or dampness in the interior paneling. Look for rust spots on drape hooks, which could indicate a high level of moisture by the window. Look at the ceiling for discoloration or stains.

Look closely at the paneling below each window, all the way to the floor. Running a hand over the paneling may be the only way to find the soft spots. The affected areas would be soft and/or brittle.

While you're checking the interior, be alert for unpleasant smells.
Mildew and mold are good signs of water penetration.

• Climb in cabover bed. Feel under mattress for any damp or soft areas. Check for any signs of leaks around windows and escape hatch.
Make sure the hatch opens & closes tightly.

• Check the bathroom floor around the shower and toilet for soft spots. Check vinyl for peeling or bubbles.

• Check all overhead cabinets for leaks from the ceiling.

• Check lower cabinets for signs of dampness or mold.
• Look for patched carpet, new floor coverings, or an uneven floor.
These may indicate water damage. Listen for creaking that may indicate the sub-floor is damaged. If it's very cold, some creaking may be normal.

• Open and close every window. Make sure that the cranks all work, and that windows close properly and seal. Do they slide freely? (they may not slide like a puck on ice, but should not be severely stuck) Are the window locks working? Are the screens in place? Check all blinds.

• Open vents. Turn on fans.

• Pull out all drawers and open all cabinets. All should operate smoothly, and have no unpleasant odors. Make sure all handles, pulls and hinges are present. Check that the dinette or couch that converts to a bed can still do so. Use a flashlight to check for discolorations or stains.

• Lift up and inspect all cushions, including the cab-over bed.
Broken frames, worn or stained fabrics, or sagging cushions will be expensive to replace.

• Turn on an inside faucet and then turn on the water pump. Pump should prime immediately and water should flow. If water heater tank isn't full, let pump fill it by leaving hot water faucet open. Once you have water flowing from both hot and cold faucets, turn off faucets. Pump should shut off automatically. Wait a minute or two... pump should not cycle again. If it does, suspect a leak in the plumbing system.
• Check tank level panel. Fresh water should be full and both waste tanks empty.

• First, make sure that water heater is not bypassed with a water heater bypass kit (used to bypass water heater for winterization.. if you're not sure, ask.) and is full of water. Light water heater.

• While waiting for water heater, test cold water in kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower & the toilet. Make sure all the water drains quickly and easily. Check tank level panel again.

• Back to water heater. Check for: * Pilot light (if so equipped) stays lit.
* If Direct Spark ignition, make sure control switch works.
* Main burner works.
* leaks (especially around drain plug and pressure release valve) * If electric equipped, check for operation.
* Let it heat up and check for shutoff if possible.
• Turn on the furnace and set thermostat above current temperature.
It may take a while to light.
• Go outside and check flames for the water heater, furnace & fridge.
Check that the flames are noisy and robust. A proper mix will burn loudly with a blue flame, not lazy with a yellow flame. It can be adjusted by loosening the small Phillips screw and sliding the air adjust collar. Usually that can be left alone unless you are over about 6000' and are having a soot problem.
• Make sure hot air is coming out of all heater vents. There are two forced air vents: one facing the bathroom and one right around the corner from it, facing the cab. They are round brown vents about 5" in diameter, so they're easily recognizable. One duct goes right underneath the drawer under the refrigerator. Pull out the drawer, pull at the stop forcefully. You can see the hose and it should be OK.
Check that it isn't collapsed either.
• Water heater should be ready now. Check hot water in both sinks & the shower. Fill both the black and gray tanks and drive over some bumps (later). This makes sure the tanks don't leak, and that the supports holding them up are in good shape.
• Turn on generator and let it run for 15-30 minutes. Make sure it doesn't stall or stutter.

• Check all interior and exterior lights • Light all range burners. Light oven pilot light and turn oven on.
• Test microwave • Check that roof A/C is blowing cold air, then turn it off.
• Turn off generator. It should stop quickly and not run on for another minute.

• Check that refrigerator is cold (best if you have wireless thermometer to check temp-38F frige/0-5F freezer). If the fridge has been running on AC, turn switch to LP and listen for flame to light.
Go outside and check fridge access door. The flame should stay on.
• Check solar controller. Hopefully you'll see a black panel about 5" x 7" with an LCD panel and some buttons. About all you can do is look to see that at least a few amps are coming down from the roof. even with a small panel you should see at least 3 or 4 amps at noon on a clear day. * The Solar controller should show the current voltage of your batteries, and a switch to show the charging current. Watch the voltage increase when you plug in the shoreline. The fluorescents won't change brightness, they have internal voltage regulators.
• Activate levelers. Make sure they all deploy. Leave them deployed while you inspect underneath the rig.

• Look underneath at the bottom of the rig at the exposed wood frame areas for dry rot, particularly around the entrance step and behind the rear wheels. You should look for collision damage, things that have come loose, or after-market items that weren't installed well. Check the gas hose to the generator for cracks. Check for signs of water, oil or fluid leaks.
• Look at all axles and suspension components. Are there any bent or broken parts? Major rust? Dangling wires? Missing shock absorbers?

• Retract levelers.
• Plug the shore power cord in and make sure it works. Check all AC outlets inside with night light (better w/polarity checker).

• Raise, rotate, lower TV antenna and test for function • Test any Smoke, Propane and/or CO detectors

• Dump valves. Check for leaks. Dump black tank, then grey tank.
Make sure everything works easily.

Engine and drivetrain

• Start the engine. Exhaust blue smoke = burning oil, white smoke = burning coolant, black smoke = running rich. Listen for exhaust leaks (ticking or obvious exhaust gas escaping). This will all have been checked by mechanic, but do this anyway to hear how engine sounds. Go somewhere flat.

• Make sure hood release works.

• Check all the fluids under the hood to see if if they smell burned or extra foul, or look really dirty. Again, just double check all fluids.

• Does hood close securely?

• Drive the coach down the road and find out if it accelerates smoothly, pulls, vibrates, etc. Make sure the in-dash A/C and heat, radio, CB and other electric equipment work properly.
Go over some bumps to jog the water in the tanks.

• Evaluate the condition of the cab. Are the seats worn, seat cushions squashed, dashboard cover cracked? Are all seatbelts in place?
• Crawl under coach again and check for water tank leaks. Check that the supports holding both tanks up are in good shape. Check levelers - they should still be fully retracted.

• See how well engine restarts after about an hour sitting.
More...Like Quote