I own a 2020 MB and thought I had a bad generator timer, so I contacted American Technology after searching this forum and ordered a replacement, as a few of us with have had issues with timers failing. Unfortunately neither of the two timers they sent (minimum order) worked.
I tested the wires in the control panel going from the timer to the generator switch while the generator was running and it reads OL. I then went to the generator, using the schematic of the remote control connections in the manual, and tested the “remote run” E wire end of the remote control connector with the “ground” A wire end of the remote control connector and it also reads OL on my multimeter. I don’t have much experience with wiring, but I looked at the wiring schematic (Diagram #3) in the Lazy Daze manual, but not sure how to determine if the issue is from the generator to the convertor or to the monitor panel and how to fix the issue. I don’t see any loose wires and all of the wires from the generator to the house is encased in the wire tubing. I’m at a loss as I’m not sure if it could be a bad remote control connector/genset connector or something else. Any thoughts on what else I can troubleshoot?
I originally thought I had a control panel issue as I had an issue with it reading empty for my LPG, but American Technology helped me troubleshoot that issue and we determined it was a bad propane sending unit and once I replaced the sending unit the panel started reading the levels again. Sorry for the long post. Thanks again.
Regards,
Joseph
2020 MB
SW MI (Currently in SoCal)
My first thought is when you are saying your meter reads "0L", it sounds like you're trying to measure "ohms" (resistance).
I would expect the Hour Meter would run on "voltage"?
Sorry about that. I took pictures of my multimeter while testing the propane sending unit and incorrectly referenced those readings above. I meant to write the “remote run” wire with ground was reading zero voltage while the generator was running at the generator. At the control panel, the wire from the timer to the generator read .007 and the wire from the timer to generator read .010.
This thread here on LDOF might help. Hours Meter for Generator (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=38529.msg248586#msg248586)
Evidently the new electronic meters have an internal battery that wears out. RonB
Thank you, Ron.
I did some research and the wire from the generator to the + side of the hour meter is supposed to have 12v when generator is running.
The meter + wire is terminal F in the remote control harness from the generator.
I'm pretty darn sure Cummins/Onan kept the same remote control wiring for decades. Last year I replaced a friend's older 4000 with a new model after it threw a rod (very high hours). I was concerned about the remote wiring and didn't need to be. The remote harness from the new generator plugged right into her existing remote harness.
(https://i.imgur.com/MPuHc91.png)
Thanks Ron and Mark. I figure it's not a bad hour meter. When I tested the E pin on the generator set connector (see wiring schematic on page 46 of the Cummins link below) when disconnected from the remote control connector, I’m getting approximately 13V and I'm also getting approximately 13V at the solenoid. When the generator set connector and remote control connectors are connected together and I test the E wire, I’m not getting any voltage. Newbie here, any recommendations on what to replace to fix the issue based on the results above? Do I replace the remote control connector, run another remote E wire, engine harness, PCB, etc? I’m not seeing any damage on the wires. Thank you so much.
P.S., I couldn't figure out how to attach an image to this post as it kept asking for a url when I tried to upload the image. Below is the Cummins link for the generator I have (4K-26100R Spec R). Thanks.
https://www.cummins.com/sites/default/files/rv-manuals/A041D129.pdf
“ see wiring schematic on page 46 of the Cummins (4K-26100R Spec R)”
Here’s the schematic
Interesting that they went to an 8-wire plug from 10.
Pin "F" (not "E") still has the same function of running the hour meter in both versions. The location of F is slightly different though. What I remember is the harness connector had the terminal letters cast into the plastic. Hopefully they didn't change that.