I recently received a settlement that represents a final windfall worth counting on. Previous windfalls didn't amount to much for me, so I wanted to buy something I could always fall back on during hard times. I bought a used RV so no matter what may come I'd always have a roof, my own space, a [toilet] and a shower.
Due to other circumstances out of my control, I had to scramble and though it wasn't ideal, I bought a 92 Front Lounge Lazy Daze RV. Chevy G30. There was a single advertised issue: Roof A/C inoperable. Seller stated an estimate he received was replacement, including labor, at $700. I would discover more issues after paying $6k.
1. Driving about 55 minutes with my buddy tailing me in my car left my windshield soaked in oil. My buddy said it had been coming from the exhaust the whole trip. The exhaust is a 90-degree pipe behind the left rear tires. A trip to a parts store for spark plugs resulted in the clerks and manager refusing to sell and suggesting I instead call a lawyer and use the lemon law...I don't know why they think it applies to privately sold anything, but they said the head gasket must be blown.
2. The odometer doesn't move, it's stuck at 100001.
3. When running dash board fan for A/C, there is a loud squealing, sounds like a young elephant - Bad bearing?
4. While on highway, and sudden acceleration or torque leads to sputtering, as if the plugs are soaking wet.
5. Several of the exterior panels have broken locks and I'm unable to access them.
I have been able to turn on a few lights and I thought I heard the furnace woosh on, but felt no heat. I haven't attempted to fill the water tanks, only the fuel tank.
Seller quipped in parting, "Get it to a mechanic to check it all out... soon." Oh...? yay...
I'm a DiYer and I would like to tackle this on my own so I can enjoy my road adventure by saving money. With that in mind, I'm asking for links to cheap parts suppliers, common methods of operations and maintenance, along with upgrade tips that make things far easier. I would love links to tutorials, even for the simpler things like, "how do I make the Fridge cold"?, or "What's this thing do/What's this switch do?" or even "Where is the switch for this or that?"
My plan without any previous knowledge is to install a generator or a solar array and additional batteries to store power. I'd also like a water filtration system, such as a water softener. I plan to boondock as much as possible. I'm fine with the standard things for now, but ultimately I want replacements for appliance layouts, lights, and captain's chairs. Once I comfortable with the RV, I will then add a robust sound system (my hope is to design an ultimate RV, self sufficient, with new features inside a vintage shell.
I see some links already and am asking for more targeted advice. Thanks for reading!
Honest advice - If what you say is accurate, put it on craigslist, disclose the issues you know about, and sell it as-is.
You will take a loss, probably a big one, but it will be much less than the loss you will eventually take trying to fix this thing.
You likely made a mistake. Trying to fix it by fixing things will be more expensive than getting out now.
Unless your state has different rules than mine, you probably won't have much luck going after the seller.
Rich
Ouch.
The problems you mention except for the hatches are all mechanical; you haven't started on structural. At that age water intrusion is very likely with attendant dry-rot. Reply #1 suggests selling at a loss. It appears you are into this at $6K. If you sell now, you are out, at most $6K, less anything you can get for it. 6K is better than the 8, 10, 12K that you will sink into it. Think new engine, trans, AC (auto and Roof). And tell yourself 'the next time I do that it will be a mistake'.
Now that you've found this board, take a look at posts on how to check out an RV before purchase.
Sorry,
Joel
Rich and Joel are rigtht on when it come to dealing with an antique LD with serious issues due to the lack of maintenance and just being worn out. You could pour many thousand of dollars into this rig and still have an old, worn out rig.
I'm not sure why you would think a 34 year old motorhome would be a good investment without a through inspection by a knowledgble mechanic and RV tech.
Would you buy a 38 year-old car without having it inspected?
As I have said many times here, RVing is NOT a cheap lifestyle, you have got to pay to play.
Dump this rig and consider whatever the cost to you to be the cost of education.
Larry
I'm a DiYer and I would like to tackle this on my own so I can enjoy my road adventure by saving money. With that in mind, I'm asking for links to cheap parts suppliers, common methods of operations and maintenance, along with upgrade tips that make things far easier. I would love links to tutorials, even for the simpler things like, "how do I make the Fridge cold"?, or "What's this thing do/What's this switch do?" or even "Where is the switch for this or that?"
It’d be very difficult to try to answer your questions in a single post without something like an encyclopedia for RVs. This Forum has a search feature, which should be of some help for some of your questions since they’ve come up many times in the past. On the front page of this forum, there is a resource called The Companion. This resource has a very comprehensive index, which should also be of help to you.
I’d suggest that as you move forward on this project and run into information dead ends, this forum is more than willing to help.
Best of luck.
Ouch.
The problems you mention except for the hatches are all mechanical; you haven't started on structural. At that age water intrusion is very likely with attendant dry-rot. Reply #1 suggests selling at a loss. It appears you are into this at $6K. If you sell now, you are out, at most $6K, less anything you can get for it. 6K is better than the 8, 10, 12K that you will sink into it. Think new engine, trans, AC (auto and Roof). And tell yourself 'the next time I do that it will be a mistake'.
Now that you've found this board, take a look at posts on how to check out an RV before purchase.
Sorry,
Joel
After looking through the records the seller provided at length, I believe the issues were mostly created when they upgraded converters...I caught a forum print-off where the owner was trying to troubleshoot why they couldn't power 12V appliances from the batteries, but once connected to shore power could...The print off was incomplete, but it seems this was right after the converter upgrade and then there was another owner a few years later that did another converter upgrade and then sold to the guy I bought from. So, I think the original owner felt the initial power change introduced too many problems, decided he couldn't work it out and sold for pennies to a flipper who didn't bother fixing and just had someone upgrade it again, then resold for profit to who I bought from. I believe he experienced the weird issues too, but the RV still served its purpose after all if you're only doing a weekend trip, some minor annoyances aren't a big deal. I think the RV then became a liability after non use and no motivation to address the ongoing problems which appear to be electrical and affecting the entire unit.
I'm going to sell, but I have to time things carefully as I gave up any residential life except for hotels to live in this. Being that I don't know RV structure and wiring, I'm going to mention those problems, but I believe I can tackle the engine's issues for relatively cheaply and this would make the purchase much more attractive. I could save the expense and just follow suit however, it will depend on how my first few showings go and how obvious the RV will be versus how oblivious the buyer.
I had limited options since I was having to move out of my place in 48 hours, that means packing it all too, while shopping for an RV, and then coordinating a helper to go retrieve it. Incredibly I got it accomplished, but as would be expected my shopping research fell by the wayside.
Although I would imagine any dealer will instantly recognize the problems and be unwilling to lose money on a trade-in, perhaps some would be kinder and work out a deal maybe for a smaller and simpler camper van? Anyone ever hear of such a trade? Problematic Old Class C with vintage quality for an old, sound but declining, bare minimum Campervan?
While I don't relish the idea of pushing the "vintage" as the value here, without a sympathetic deal, I'll have no choice.
JD Power rang this particular RV in at $2710, but I'd need at the very least 1.5x that or I'd be a homeless person with plenty of spending money...and before anyone asks, No. I will not go back to renting, I can't buy a home, and I still aim to make RVing my next adventure in life. Sure, I got screwed bad, but even from this position I'm way closer to my goals than I would be if I took over a 50% loss on this deal. even 40% would be pushing it...
Rich and Joel are rigtht on when it come to dealing with an antique LD with serious issues due to the lack of maintenance and just being worn out. You could pour many thousand of dollars into this rig and still have an old, worn out rig.
I'm not sure why you would think a 34 year old motorhome would be a good investment without a through inspection by a knowledgble mechanic and RV tech.
Would you buy a 38 year-old car without having it inspected?
As I have said many times here, RVing is NOT a cheap lifestyle, you have got to pay to play.
Dump this rig and consider whatever the cost to you to be the cost of education.
Larry
I had a budget to change my life and a used RV fit it quite well, even including some for repairs and the initial voyage costs. I still trust in the common man to be honest and regardless of the times that trust has screwed me, I will continue to give trust initially because it's foolish to think anyone can earn your trust if you approach them as dishonest initially. You are lecturing from a position that doesn't exist in reality or practicality. The mistake was made by not being able to do enough specific market research and have a position of leverage for haggling. In fact the seller didn't even need to sell this to me, he just had to show up because I had this one shot and no one else responded in time. Had I done the research I probably could have saved some money, but then I would have been quicker to put that towards fixing these issues. So, in response to your preachy analogies I simply say hindsight is 20/20 and none of the suggestions to be a smarter RV shopper would have made a difference in the end, actually had I avoided certain listings because of a higher knowledge, I would have secured nothing in time.
I'm aware you didn't know about my time limit, so it's forgivable that you chose to preach and lecture, but without that your posts contributes nothing. It does give clues about who you are, though. Nice to meet you, sir. Knowing now the full scope of my situation, what would your experience and wisdom suggest is the best action? Take the huge loss and squander what's left of my life (which would be largely reduced), approach the market with the same or more dishonesty as the last seller? Or accept the expensive junk that still has some use and nurture more use from it over time?
I have a different opinion than some on here. You could get that RV working great for tons less than most people on here paid for theirs. It is that simple. People easily spent 40K to 100K for theirs, oh and they still spent more money after they bought it.
I typically when buying an older vehicle just did what had to be done and didn't look back. To sell and take a loss leaves you with a loss of money and no RV.
It sounds like you did the best you could with the situation you were in, and there is more to the story than in your initial post.
If you decide to keep it, keep posting to the forum and you will get responses, mostly helpful. My initial comment did not have the information you posted later. Good luck and keep posting.
Joel
Knowing now the full scope of my situation, what would your experience and wisdom suggest is the best action? Take the huge loss and squander what's left of my life (which would be largely reduced), approach the market with the same or more dishonesty as the last seller? Or accept the expensive junk that still has some use and nurture more use from it over time?
I would give the same advice to a friend or family member or anyone I know and care about. It's based on the age and condition of the vehicle, and the cost of repairs. None of that changes because you find yourself in a tough spot.
If you don't want to sell the rig at a loss, I would suggest finding a place to drive it to and park it long term. I would also caution against putting much money into repairs. Only do DIY repairs, and learn to live without anything that would cost more than a small amount.
I know that's not what you want to hear, but it's the best I got given the situation you find yourself in. There no magic way to take a very old worn out RV and make it into a reliable travel vessel without spending more money than the rig is worth. If you really have a blown head gasket, it would probably cost $10,000 minimum to get this RV going reliably down the road.
Rich
I have a different opinion than some on here. You could get that RV working great for tons less than most people on here paid for theirs. It is that simple.
I'm sorry the OP bought this rig in a moment of dispair and panic. I wish we coud help but we were cosulted after the purchase, not before. There is nothing we can say or do to help retifiy the situation other than give advice..
An engine that spits enough oil to cover the windshield of a car in a back of it is not something that can be cheaply fixed, it needs a engine replacement, not a cheap repair. These engine cannot be rebuilt or repaired with removing them, a BIG project for an exerienced mechanic in well equipped shop. Worn piston rigns or a blown head gasket fall into his category.
This is a rig that could live on the streets of a big city, parked in commercial zones, if allowed. If the OP is happy with this, great, but it isn't a rig that can be driven distances for living in the boonies. There is no way to cheaply turn this LD into a dependable rig.
Larry
Hi GypsyMickey; It could just be that there is too much oil in the engine. The whoosh of the heater means the fan is working, but it won't get hot if the propane tank is turned off (or empty). Battery and converter issues could be as simple as on misplaced (connected in the wrong location) wire. Or even just a a loose screw at a critical connector.
If the roof and windows are in good enough shape, and it doesn't leak, there is still hope for living in it.
You didn't say what state you are located in. In California a sale isn't complete until the vehicle passes a smog check. No pass, no sale! The previous owner is 'on the hook' for all the repairs needed to pass a smog check. Until they are done, you are just test driving it. The previous registered owner generally would have it 'pass smog' (good for 90 days) before trying to sell it. All smog devices have to be there, and in working shape. Additionally the engine exhaust can't emit any visible smoke upon startup. A new wrinkle that was added to the test about 2019. Other states may have different requirements.
The knowledge and experience levels required, go up with the age and condition of the rig. Engines, running gear and electrical, plumbing specific to trailers/slide in campers and motorhomes range anywhere from simple to very complex. Lazy Daze's are sort of in the middle of that. RonB
Few replies here I wanted to post a reply to generally address everyone who has given input. First off, Thank you. Advice or simply stating realistic facts is greatly appreciated and exactly why I came here. Please keep this coming.
To clarify a few details: I am in Florida and my only priority destination is Atlanta so a state away would be the farthest I'd have to go though I would want to go further, but if I'd need to sink a lot more money first, I'm fine with just Atlanta.
Currently the RV isn't starting so I'm trying to figure that out. It has fresh gas and was starting. The battery died from a cold snap here, But I wasn't able to jump it off. I'll most likely yield to a mobile
mechanic since my mechanical expertise isn't well versed in electrical and it would appear this RV is chock full of those. Structurally it's in great shape, there's not a great deal of rust (minimal for its age) on the chassis, but the engine surely needs an overhaul. I'm thinking a mobile mechanic that can get it started is much cheaper than a tow and a generator and Id prefer to be mobile with it but it's a catch-22 since mobility means I need to tow
my compact sedan that is my primary errand runner and the RV is meant to be a home that won't evict me while I seek to treat my lifelong undiagnosed mental issues that have ruined my professional career.
I think my decision to make my life mobile was a wise one, but I surely didn't prepare well
enough and honestly I didn't have time to adequately prepare due to circumstances. If I can work out the electrical issues, I think I'll be OK.
Hi GypsyMickey; That cold snap would be pretty tough on the engine staring battery. (Florida). The standard key for external compartment doors is a CH751 key. Those can be obtained easily, since almost all RV locks use that key. I forgot to mention that issue that you had.
Towing is a vehicle is a great complicator. That Chevy 350 engine was never great at pulling that much extra weight, and most vehicles can't be towed '4 down' anymore. I hope this all works for you eventually. RonB
UPDATE:
Got it running and had had a chance to read through the manual and I think my issues are the built in safeties...From what I gathered the living space electrical are limited if the engine is running because it shouldn't be lived in while traveling which makes sense, Someone watching TV while traveling would be certain death if a bad accident occurred. Problem is the outlets don't work with the engine off either and they should because the house batteries are charged now. I'm having an electrician come check things as a favor so hopefully they can shed some light on this. Again, with the obvious engine issues the fact it's a 92 chevy seems to suggest it will still run even with problems. As I learn and with each new eureka I'm uncovering what's really an issue and what's by design.
I'll look into getting the compartment key because I do want to install that specific generator eventually. Without reading into it a lot will it connect into the vehicles gas supply and the electrical as?
The 110 outlets only have power if you are hooked up to shore power, running a generator, or an inverter converting the house battery power. The 12V cigarette style outlets run off the house batteries
Not sure about the steps required to add a generator to a LD that never had one. Are you thinking of plumbing a regular generator in the generator compartment or just getting a stand alone gas generator?
But it might be cheaper to simply add a solar generator (stupid name, as it generates nothing on its own) with a couple solar panels. Really depends on what items you want to run on AC current (the 110 outlets only)
I was thinking of adding generator that goes in the compartment. I need the 110 outlets. But cheaper might be better. This roof is pretty cluttered however so Idk if solar is the answer. i can't even find the house batteries though. The compartment locks are in bad shape, some have keys broke off in them, others seem carved out, so I think even with the right key I'd still
need to pop them open and either bungee shut or replace the latch...
I hate to be the bearer of bad news again....but....
Adding a generator like an Onan 4000 (what most of us have) would easily cost in the $6000+ range IF you can find the parts and pieces.
Old thread discussing the topic:
Is there a place to add a generator in a 1988 22' LD? (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29528.msg166393#msg166393)
Rich
I hate to be the bearer of bad news again....but....
Adding a generator like an Onan 4000 (what most of us have) would easily cost in the $6000+ range IF you can find the parts and pieces.
Old thread discussing the topic:
Is there a place to add a generator in a 1988 22' LD? (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29528.msg166393#msg166393)
Your rig was built back in the day when Ed (one of the owners) would tell the buyer "you don't need that". Many LDs came without generators.
The pre 2000 rigs used an Onan Emerald Genest, a good but obsolete unit. The generator requires a mounting frame for hanging the generator. The frame kits are also obsolete. Some older LDs that came without a generator were pre-wired for a generator. Adding a generator will require installing a transfer-switch.
It's a big job (read expensive) for a shop equipped for this type of work. It might be possible to install a later model Onan but it is going to be custom work. $6000 may be an optimistic guess unless it's a DIY project..
It would be cheaper and easier to add a bunch of of solar and a few lithium batteries, along with a pass-through inverter, plus buying a quiet portable generator for charging during periods of rain or fog.
Larry
Mickey, the house batteries of your midbath should be in the outside compartment below the outside refrigerator access door. Originally they were two 6 volt, 225 amp-hour flooded lead-acid batteries, wired in series for 12 volts. However, previous owners may have replaced them with other batteries in other arrangements.
It would be cheaper and easier to add a bunch of of solar and a few lithium batteries, along with a pass-through inverter, plus buying a quiet portable generator for charging during periods of rain or fog.
Start with the portable generator gives you 110 power while it’s running and hooked up to the RV. Actually I’d recommend going somewhere with electrical power (shore) to verify your 110 system works when plugged, before buying any generator.
Then add lithium batteries & a pass though inverter, at least 2000 watts (batteries can be charged with the above gen)
Then add solar to minimize running the generator.
Look into inverter generators -- these are smaller and lighter than the built-in RV generators. If you are a healthy adult, you should be able to move it around yourself. They are also fairly quiet and only rev up when they have a load.
You can find these quite economically at Harbor Freight. Obviously you should ALWAYS put the generator outside when it is running, or you risk carbon monoxide poisoning. Find a way to lock it securely to your coach to prevent theft especially if you are urban camping. Store it out of sight when you're not using it.
These use gasoline or sometimes propane for fuel, so you will need to handle and store these safely OUTSIDE the coach.
To power the whole RV, you would need to plug the generator into the "shore power" socket on the outside of the coach. Really old RVs use a regular household plug, newer ones require a 30 amp RV plug that looks like a stove or dryer plug.
Be mindful of the load you place on the generator to avoid damaging it or your house wiring. Use a 10 gauge extension cord to avoid overheating the plugs and potentially starting a fire. You'll have enough juice to use a coffee maker, electric skillet, or hair dryer but not all at once. Radio and TV? Sure, these don't require much power. Microwave? Maybe, depending on the wattage on the appliance label.
The combination of an inverter generator to charge up a power bank such as a Jackery or Bluetti gives you the best of both worlds -- off grid power to charge your devices and run small appliances periodically or power the whole house when needed.
Solar power is still a heavy investment for the panels, batteries, wiring, charge controllers and inverter you would require for a complete system, and won't cope well with shade or overcast days -- you'd still need to charge your batteries either with the truck engine or a generator.
If you haven't already, I suggest joining the Home on Wheels Alliance (https://homesonwheelsalliance.org/). This is a non-profit community specifically for vehicle dwellers (cars, trucks, RVs, cargo trailers, etc. etc.) with lots of resources to help you be comfortable and safe.
WOW. Yall are really delivering the goods. THANK THANK THANK YOU!!!
So much to unpack...
6k for a genny installed represents the price I paid for the RV itself (yep I got hosed), so that plan is a no-go. Inverters were installed several times...I'm going to double check the dates to find the most recent and see how you guys feel about that, but first:
I was able to access MOST of the panels, besides the ones with keys broke off inside (one) and another that I got the key in but latch is seized (it's got penetrating oil soaking it now). I located the house battery compartment and it contains a single marine battery. I looked for a voltage but didn't find one... it's an Interstate SRM-24 RV/Marine 81Ah Deep cycle.
If it’s a single battery, it should be 12 volts. Do you have a multimeter?
Solar isn't a good solution for lots of A/C usage, which most people will want in Atlanta or Florida.
Rich
A few specific answers about your engine:
First, invest in a service manual for your van and engine. Check Amazon for used copies -- get the one specific for vans and/or cutaways. This will give you an idea how much work is involved to fix the various mechanical problems you're describing. Some you can do yourself, assuming some basic old car tinkering experience, others are best left to a mechanic.
Be aware that a lot of dealers don't work on RVs, or don't work on vehicles as old as yours. That means finding an independent repair shop that is willing to work on it and won't rip you off. Being female and inexperienced means that they'll at least try. If you know the proper terminology and you can describe the troubleshooting steps you've already tried (which is why you should have a service manual) you'll look like less of a victim.
The sure sign of a blown head gasket (or possibly a cracked block) is to look at the fluid in the radiator. Wait until the engine is cold (e.g. first thing in the morning after driving the previous day) then remove the radiator cap. If the fluid looks like a chocolate milkshake, coolant from the radiator is mixing with oil from the crankcase and this is officially Bad News. Engine's going to have to come out and being a van chassis this is a lot more work and money than on a normal vehicle.
If it's using oil, blue smoke from the tailpipe most often means bad piston rings or a severely worn out engine. Oil all over the place without blue smoke means a bad oil leak. Could be a blown seal or a leaky gasket from the oil pan or valve covers. Take it tou a coin op car wash and spray off as much of the crud as you can under the hood and underside of the coach to make it easier to locate leaks. Put a big sheet of cardboard under the engine and transmission overnight -- the location of the oil spots will be more informative if you cleaned up that area first.
Leaky gaskets are not terribly hard to service but it's a dirty job to DIY. Blown seals are much tougher especially with a van chassis as the engine will have to come out and if it's that bad you may as well just replace it with a new or rebuilt engine. In the meantine carry lots of oil with you and check your oil regularly -- daily before driving it. Don't wait for the oil light to come on or your engine will suffer badly.
Once you know how much oil you're leaking, you can judge whether it's cheaper to fix it or just keep putting oil in it. You can buy a lot of rerefined motor oil for the cost of pulling the engine from a van. Yes it sucks environmentally, but if you have to choose between your personal security and an oil leak, spend that money on you not your vehicle. Spread cat litter under the leaks and sweep it up regularly if you worry about leaving a mess where you're parked.
RV air conditioners are expensive, power hungry and loud. Shop for a small household window A/C and stick it through the kitchen window once you're parked with access to shore power. So called portable air conditioners don't work nearly as well and are more expensive than a plain window unit.
Squealing dash a/c is either a loose belt or a bad bearing. Assume all the belts and hoses are old and rotten and need replacing. Not a cheap repair but it's one less thing that can leave you stranded and vulnerable. If it's a bad fan bearing, it could be easy to find and fix or it could be a nightmare that requires removing the entire dash assembly.
If it sputters on acceleration, it could be all kinds of things. A worn out carburetor, fouled plugs (take one out and look at it) from either oil or too-rich fuel mixture, a dirty air filter, and a lot of other possibilities. Read your service manual for troubleshooting tips.
A locksmith can get the broken locks open and repaired. Amazon has a nice selection: Amazon.com : ch 751 lock cylinder (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=ch+751+lock+cylinder&crid=12E8Q8ROKJ0B5) In my opinion there's almost no point rekeying those locks for "security reasons" -- if someone wants whatever is in the compartments that their universal key won't open, they'll take a crowbar to it and leave you with a lot more damage than the value of whatever stuff they steal.
As for the odometer, no clue. If it's mechanical it's probably been tampered with; if it's digital maybe that's as far as it goes once it reaches 100,000 miles which makes no sense to me but then neither did the Y2K bug.
I am sure on reflection there are things you might have done differently with regard to your purchase, but it is what it is. Take the time now to prioritize what's worth fixing and what isn't. Safety always comes first -- tires, brakes and steering can put you in the ditch on your side and wreck you and everything inside your coach.
Fire is the enemy of RVs and their people. Find your emergency exits and practice using them -- they're no good to you if you can't escape when you need to. Inside the coach, make sure the wiring is in good condition, fuses and breakers are correct for the circuits they control, and there are no gas leaks. All these are fire and explosion risks, and once a fire starts you will lose the coach and everything inside, if not to the fire itself, then to smoke and water damage.
RV fridges are another potential hazard. If you're using the fridge, get an RV tech to go over it and make sure it's working properly. Fridge failures can release ammonia gas or start a fire. Install carbon dioxide, propane and smoke detectors and check them regularly.
If you're street camping, take care to keep your rig clean and free from clutter both inside and out. Don't store personal belongings or trash outside the rig. Learn how to be a stealth camper -- the Home on Wheels Alliance website has lots of tips -- separate day and night parking places for example, and doing the best you can to maintain a tidy and respectable appearance. It's getting tougher all the time thanks to homeless camps taking over neighborhoods.
If it’s a single battery, it should be 12 volts. Do you have a multimeter?
I do not and the use for one has been plaguing me for years. Perhaps it's time one is acquired...
However yes this is a 12 volt per google search for specs It's a flooded Lead-acid. So I think I need distilled water perhaps it's dry?
I do not and the use for one has been plaguing me for years. Perhaps it's time one is acquired...
However yes this is a 12 volt per google search for specs It's a flooded Lead-acid. So I think I need distilled water perhaps it's dry?
Yes, use distilled water. Available in gallon jugs at Walmart and drugstores. Assume there's also corrosion on the terminals and get something to clean that up and protect them. The automotive department will have the right kind of grease for the terminals.
ALWAYS wear eye protection when dealing with batteries. Carefully remove the caps over the cells and look. If you can see the top of the plates, you are definitely low on water. Add in small amounts from a measuring cup or syringe until the water makes a () shape, no higher. Overfilling the battery is bad for it too.
You might call a local automotive parts store to see if they can load test it. Let them know it’s a RV “house” battery, not an engine starting battery.
You can pick up a basic multimeter, which should do just fine, at Harbor Freight:
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-function-digital-multimeter-59434.html
1. Driving about 55 minutes with my buddy tailing me in my car left my windshield soaked in oil. My buddy said it had been coming from the exhaust the whole trip. The exhaust is a 90-degree pipe behind the left rear tires. A trip to a parts store for spark plugs resulted in the clerks and manager refusing to sell and suggesting I instead call a lawyer and use the lemon law...I don't know why they think it applies to privately sold anything, but they said the head gasket must be blown.
Won't sell you the plugs? Oil out the exhaust typically not associated with a blown head gasket - more likely leaky valve seals. Anyway, the oil would foul the plugs, causing misfires. In our '83 I would replace the plugs at least yearly, and they would be a mess. Note too leaks from multiple places from the engine are common with a poorly kept 350 block, and could end up on a following vehicle.
Steve
Here's a page about how to choose and use a digital multimeter (https://www.andybaird.com/Eureka/pages/multimeter-RS-22-820.htm). Any meter is better than none at all, but if you get one with autoranging (unlike the Harbor Freight cheapies), it'll be a lot simpler and easier to use.
And before you put too much money into making this rig livable, I strongly suggest getting the drivetrain diagnosed. If it turns out that you need a new engine and/or transmission, that's likely going to cost more than you paid for the rig--and you'll still have a 35-year-old motorhome with lots of other problems. In that case you'd be better off unloading it and looking for a better rig. Can your car tow a trailer? A decent used trailer is a lot less expensive than a decent used motorhome, and a trailer has a lot less to go wrong.
I'm just saying: before you put more time, work, and money into this rig, have the drivetrain thoroughly checked out.
UPDATE:
This is quite the trooper of RVs. It made an hour trip today overloaded by all my crap. At times sounded like it would split in half, but never broke or cracked. The front brakes squealed a bit, those poor guys were in some stop and go traffic for about 40 minutes. Got it to a campsite and quickly
learned how to work the hose, the retractable 30-amp shore power, and made a sewage and grey water dump opting to use the same hose (only one I found that actually fit) and opting to close them back up instead of fashion some permanent PVC fixture as many neighbors were doing.
Everything worked! All except for the overhead A/C, but that's OK because the seller provided a portable A/C and it's kinda chilly rn in FL anywho. Tomorrow, after I secure funding for my next night, awaiting a few withdrawals from my crypto accounts to clear (praise be to the plasma industry) I will give the engine a good check, checking fluids, belts, and generally cutting my teeth on a vintage van engine. I added water to the deep cycle battery I found and That's seems to have done quite the job on the charging system. Also plan to pop the other two compartments I can't access, but was able to open one by bending the door away from the latch (the lock wouldn't turn and wouldn't fully accept my key). By process of elimination this one must be my fresh water inlet hose, though It seemed devoid of any valve....It was a door and then a large white hose going in and up...I definitely found the sewage and grey water because I dumped them and I wouldn't think they'd keep fresh water tanks right next to sewage tanks... But idk I'll need to consult the manual for clarification.
Long story short, my panic about this being non functional was premature. I'll be removing the overhead A/C and replacing with solar paneling as long as the weight is comparable, but that's a distant project. Still need to replace the compartment locks and give the engine and chassis a real good inspection/overhaul, but things are looking up and I even decided on a name for this rig....
She'll be known from now on as "The Gravy Train"
UPDATE:
Long story short, my panic about this being non functional was premature. I'll be removing the overhead A/C and replacing with solar paneling as long as the weight is comparable, but that's a distant project. Still need to replace the compartment locks and give the engine and chassis a real good inspection/overhaul, but things are looking up and I even decided on a name for this rig....
She'll be known from now on as "The Gravy Train"
Traveling, camping and even with some repairs past, present and future you have saved tens of thousands of dollars buying that older RV. Keep money set aside to address issues that come up to keep it a positive experience.
made a sewage and grey water dump opting to use the same hose (only one I found that actually fit) and opting to close them back up instead of fashion some permanent PVC fixture as many neighbors were doing.
Congratulations, you’re doing it right.
Black and Grey tanks are designed to dumped when pretty full, and not kept open continuously. Solids will tend to stay behind if the tanks are left open, leading to nasty clogs (poop pyramids). Be generous with water when using the toilet so there is plenty of liquid to move things along.
Some (many?) of us do not connect grey/black water dump hoses except when we use them. Grand Canyon trip decades ago, I was advised ravens would mistake hoses for tasty, giant worms. At least until they'd pecked enough holes to make them useless. This is a great tidbit to learn second hand.
Joel
Some (many?) of us do not connect grey/black water dump hoses except when we use them. Grand Canyon trip decades ago, I was advised ravens would mistake hoses for tasty, giant worms. At least until they'd pecked enough holes to make them useless. This is a great tidbit to learn second hand.
Joel
I have wondered why so many people connect when they arrive. Many places we camp at have a dump station and we don't have the sewer hole on our site. But the sites that do have sewer on site I don't know why, unless they are staying for a long time. I connect up and dump just before we leave and then put everything away. I see no reason to have it sit out in the elements for days.
Hi Steve; I can only think that some don't manage their water very well and take long showers, or a few times per day. 11:00 at night with soap in your hair would be a bad time to run out of fresh water, or for the gray tank to be full! Many occupants/children might complicate water management. Visiting adults that don't have experience at managing water for instance. RonB
Possibly to make sure they have all the parts and pieces they need?
I occasionally put the hoses out and leave the valves closed, especially when camping with our now adult kids. They know that hookups means unlimited water and sewer and take advantage. It's easier to open to gray gate for a minute then close it as needed with longer showers. They can do it when I'm not around. Makes it easier for everyone.
Rich
UPDATE: Was able to spend a lot more time today, but learned some things last night also.
Last night, tried to use the oven. The dial is weird, Pilot On is clockwise from OFF and all the temps are counter clockwise, starting with Broil. it won't turn clockwise at all, even when pushed in, so when I push in and turn to Pilot On, I did see the pilot light flame, then a few moments later the burner lit with the cascading flame, then I had to turn the dial back and OFF is unavoidable. Even so, I managed to go fast enough that nothing bf turned off, set my temp and then checked it 2 minutes later - out. Tried again...same thing.
i pulled the knob off at some point but now I can't even get the pilot to light although I think I may now be out of gas because my furnace is also not working tonight, however, my water is still hot. ::head scratch::
I got the forbidden compartments open, found more hosing, an extra dump hose so I can have a grey and a black water one, but only one fits in the handy dandy storage tube. Also found elbows so I can return the one I purchased. Found more electrical cords and extensions, some tools, a replacement awning canopy, AND a rotten bottom board. The back of the compartment floor was OK, but the front is completely rotted and falling in pieces.
Maybe a few new beams and some plywood to fix, nbd, but is there an upgrade for this? thin stainless steel? like sheet metal maybe? plastics or fiberglass? i can work with wood and it's relatively cheap, but if Im gonna replace anything structure-wise, I would like to future proof it if possible.
The biggest issue though is that my water inlet has been leaking on the ground and after trying grommets, rescue tape, silicon tape, and a new hose, I discovered the interior inlet leaks. There's a plastic coupler on a non flex line and thread tape couldn't fix the leak there but rescue tape and thread tape did turn it into a drip that makes about a pint in 3 hours so it's manageable, but I'm just turning the source off unless I need it and have a small dish positioned to catch the drips. Towels are drying the interior floor in the cupboard and hopefully the cavity between the exterior and interior doesn't rot away.
The exterior drips were running into my LP gas service port and rusting that whole welded frame bit, so anticipating a worst case scenario or the tank rusting itself free and becoming a flammable road hazard during travel, I think I also need to upgrade this to maybe a removable tank secured by straps and positioned for the service ports to still function or maybe just get some new metal and re-weld the tank? not sure, I can weld, but am not a welder and I'm not thrilled about the idea of welding a potentially combustible tank of propane, no matter how empty experts claim it is...
So I got a lot done today but also discovered much more needs to be done. the gravy train keeps on pouring.
I would treat your current propane supply as a non replaceable resource for now, as finding some to fill it is likely difficult based on these google results from “35 year old rv propane tank”:
Key Considerations for a 35-Year-Old Tank:
DOT Cylinders (Removable): If the tank is a 20lb/30lb vertical cylinder, it is long past its 12-year inspection limit. It must be recertified by a professional or replaced. Exchange programs (like Blue Rhino) are a common way to swap out old tanks.
ASME Tanks (Permanently Mounted): These have thicker, welded, and more durable shells, typically used on Class A/C motorhomes. While they do not have a mandatory "expiration date," 35-year-old tanks should be thoroughly inspected for heavy corrosion, leaks at the valves, and proper functioning of the gauge.
Safety Check: Check the tank collar for a stamp indicating the manufacturer date. If it is from 1991 or earlier, it is likely best to replace it due to age-related wear.
Component Failure: The regulator and valves on a 35-year-old tank are highly likely to have degraded and should be replaced for safety.
Do not attempt to fill a rusted, damaged, or severely outdated tank yourself. Take it to a qualified propane professional.
It would be helpful to post photos of some of the issues your talking about to help us understand better. The Site Instructional Guide section of the forum explains how to do that:
Site Instructional Guides (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?board=7.0)
Is your propane tank the vertical, removable type or the horizontal, permanent type?
And then there were visual aids...
IMGUR album w/captions (https://imgur.com/a/rv-wip-gypsymickey-SBFAVCL)
"The biggest issue though is that my water inlet has been leaking on the ground and after trying grommets, rescue tape, silicon tape, and a new hose, I discovered the interior inlet leaks."
Simple solution: don't use it. Seriously, hooking up directly to campground water is a poor idea for a number of reasons, and most people I know don't do it. Instead, we fill our water tank, draw from that using the water pump, and refill as necessary. This avoids issues such as algae growth in exposed water hose, frozen water hose in winter, and leaking or burst indoor plumbing (especially in an older rig!) due to excessive campground water pressure.
What Andy said.
After seeing the photo of your propane tank, I’m concerned you may have a problem getting it filled due to the rust issues.
I have the leak fixed.
I think propane is going to be a challenge as I find lots of small tanks that I assume previous owner used to fill the tank on his own either bc of being denied at a fill station or bc they're difficult to find. I'll probably end up doing the same for the rest of this winter.
Hi GypsyMickey; You have an ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineering) horizontal propane tank. While it looks pretty rusty, it should do for now. Try to clean some rust off and look for deep pin holes of rust that might be leaking. Primer and paint the worst parts. When your heater is running, cooking, water heating, the propane inside is vaporizing. It uses warmth of the tank to do this. The tank gets cold and will 'sweat' in humid locations (Florida) and that gets the rust started. Salt on the roads in the 'snow belt' can accelerate this rust. Rocks continually pelt the tank as you drive, chipping the paint. Mine is mounted just aft of the driver side duals, so that doesn't help matters.
Those small tanks, one gallon, were likely used for a barbeque, or lantern, or some other appliance not presently there. Trying to hook those up is a waste of time. Better to get a small 2-3 gallon DOT tank such as used for barbeques that can be refilled remotely, and properly connect fittings to attach it into your propane system.
Getting propane back into your onboard systems takes patience, if you ran out. The pilot position of the knob on the oven keeps it going (very small flame) so you don't have to relight it every time you use the oven. With propane in your tank and main lines, use a stovetop lit burner, to get propane in and air out of your lines. Some older space heaters might have a pilot that you would need to light. The refrigerator also has a very small line that takes many re-tries to get the pilot to stay lit.
This brings up the topic of propane, smoke and carbon monoxide alarms. Make sure you have them, and that they work. A small portable fire extinguisher is required also to be on-board. RonB
Excellent advice and info. Your tank maintenance tips are indispensable.
My manual says pretty much the same things you have, but never elaborates on alternative ways to handle the propane, just the safety precautions, and then "use a fill station". I see everyone else with the portables and I'll grab one for sure, maybe two.
The manual also says that the fridge will run off AC power, but it needs the propane to initially cool as the AC power can only maintain temp, not efficient at cooling it from warmth.
I'm assuming the water heater follows the same sort of switching or I'm underestimating the size of that tank, because furnace hasn't fired for 3 days and yet still have hot water, but no oven and haven't tried range recently.
The manual also says that the fridge will run off AC power, but it needs the propane to initially cool as the AC power can only maintain temp, not efficient at cooling it from warmth.
In my 12 years of having a 2000 30 IB when preparing for a trip I turn the fridge on the day before I leave on AC. It always cooled my fridge to the same temps that propane did.
YMMV
Jerry
I normally turn the reefer on a few days before the trip. Propane is NOT on, maybe it cools inefficiently.
Last upgrade included a 300AH lithium battery & 2K inverter. Initial test was to chill reefer via inverter. It cooled down nicely overnight, although it took a bit more than 200AH to do so. Part of the test was solar recover rate - that didn't go as well as hoped - we got 9 days straight of atmospheric river rainfall. ::)
Reefer is 2013 vintage, may differ from OP's.