For those who want to know, yes, removing Eternabond tape should be considered an alternate form of punishment.
Plan is to remove all the residue, apply caulk in appropriate places, apply Eternabond tape, prime and then add a rubber coating to it.
Question is, any suggestions to fill the gap in the pics? Previously I believe it just had silicone caulk, tape and a light coating of paint. Thanks in advance for your advice.
Yikes, that's a mess! Is there noticeable rot in the interior corners? It looks like water has pooled there.
You need to clean all the old sealant and other debris. If it was previously sealed with silicone, you should cut and sand the area down to bare metal; a surface that has been sealed with silicone will reject any new sealant. If someone has applied Eternabond tape over silicone, that would explain why it didn't stick.
I use a vibratory tool with a sharp chisel blade to cut the old paint and sealant away.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/4139/4877853931_62a2fd1510_z.jpg)
After cleaning things up and before applying the tape, seal the gaps with polyurethane sealant for the best results.
Roll-on roof coatings have few benefits and make future roof work very difficult; save your money for something important.
Larry
Larry you are exactly right. There’s tape over silicone. Rookie mistake from previous owner. Regarding rubber sealant I’m torn. Part of me wants to do it but I have several solar panels, two fans, an ac unit, a hatch etc. so I’d have to uninstall so many components I’m hesitating. Plus the areas where there are leaks are along the edges and along the hatch and along some of the screws for the panels.
Larry quick question. There is some rotted wood underneath that spot. Someone suggested I remove the end cap and reframe. I’m hesitant to do that. Any thoughts?
Regarding rubber sealant, I’m torn. Part of me wants to do it, but I have several solar panels, two fans, an ac unit, a hatch etc. so I’d have to uninstall so many components I’m hesitating. Plus the areas where there are leaks are along the edges and along the hatch and along some of the screws for the panels.
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What do you hope to accomplish by coating the roof? If there are leaks, it's best to seal leaking penetrations with a high-quality, long-lasting sealant such as polyurethane or even Dicor.
Elastomeric roof sealants have a shorter life and will peel prematurely if the roof isn't adequately cleaned before applying the coating. It could be a challenge to clean a 42-year-old roof.
Larry
Larry quick question. There is some rotted wood underneath that spot. Someone suggested I remove the end cap and reframe. I’m hesitant to do that. Any thoughts?
Ripping into the body from the exterior would be a huge job. I would seal things up and watch the body to see if it has any signs of falling apart. I have seen well-rotted LDs continue being used for years without structural failure. There is a lot of extra strength built into the coach.
Your 1984 LD has the multi-piece front cap that is well known for having multiple places for water to enter. Good chance you already have rot in the cap, especially around the window, seams, and where the cap meets the side walls.
If you need to open the walls for repairs, it is best to do so from the interior, avoiding removing the exterior aluminum panels, something you definitely do not want to get involved in.
Plan on resealing the front caps seams and around the window to prevent continuing damage.
Larry