Hi everyone,
I own a 1990 Lazy Daze Mid-Bath, and I’m getting ready to replace several components on my Atwood hot water heater. Before I order the parts, I wanted to check with the group to make sure I’m getting the correct pieces for my model.
My water heater model: Atwood G6A-6E
(Photo of data plate attached)
Symptoms / condition:
The ignitor clicks consistently, but I’m not getting a flame.
The burner tube assembly is heavily rusted and deteriorated.
Because of the overall condition, I’m planning to refresh most of the replaceable parts at once.
Here’s the replacement kit I’m planning to order on Amazon:
👉https://a.co/d/cMy8dll
I’m also planning to replace the orifice:
👉 Amazon.com: Atwood 30829 Orifice 1.30 MM LP Water Heater Part Indoor... (https://a.co/d/9R20xaC)
Questions for the group:
1. Are these the correct parts for an Atwood G6A-6E in a 1990 Lazy Daze?
2. Since my ignitor seems to be working but I’m getting no flame, is there anything else I should replace or check while I’m doing this?
3. Any tips, common failure points, or “do this while you’re in there” advice from others who’ve rebuilt this model?
Just want to make sure I’m ordering the right parts before I hit “buy.”
Thanks in advance - really appreciate the collective expertise here!
Are you getting a spark at the igniter? Is there propane coming of the orifice? You should be able to smell the propane. You really want to be sure there is propane getting to the water heater. But, given it's age and condition, and low cost of the parts, just replacing the parts might be good idea, regardless, and might even fix it.
Hi MuseMe; As Eric stated I would want to smell the propane first. Do you see a spark? when it clicks. You can use a gas match to light the flame if it is a spark problem. The plasma of a lit flame conducts electricity, and is the flame detector. There is a small overheat fuse, looks like a capacitor. If you've had flame blowback in the past, this thermal fuse could be all that is wrong. Use a meter to verify that it is ok. I have done trouble shooting by taking it out of the circuit. (please put it back in if it was or wasn't the problem.) I notice it's not listed in your kit. https://www.amazon.com/Rv-Water-Heater-Parts-GCH10A-2E/dp/B09X13KPH4/ref=sr_1_17?crid=2NO4C4DATJPED&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.jVKEURnW-6riugMxEXUqgMG3ygXdzDmS3nW0OTIom1x1yeHWuKfs52zBnDADiZT19FpvanV25eYJsbXzMwpgqsgL0sKOhsKdGR0fJQRIGUfXXWh1wVSEcge1kQWPygahS0CuLM6W4EZiVLpUwERYFx7ahd4qHuDy7bBCB7rfgLWQFirYFMEMHv0bXUph05OI8_MnYpdiDpDJoFQPWSDrF6CAlNZtu8FSSkNd-RY2NmNgzPgpRXGMTDhkcm7Wax_ttjeeUfBERjpTeBpU-ssTqNfAZoRo84qu-cBTD-81R5Y.3h6xFgZV1mnhKAGPQJ3UtfH8JtpPhMjsSSWkatibpkY&dib_tag=se&keywords=overheat%2Bfusible%2Blink%2Bfor%2Brv%2Batwood%2B6%2Bgal%2Bheater&nsdOptOutParam=true&qid=1765244232&s=automotive&sprefix=overheat%2Bfusible%2Blink%2Bfor%2Brv%2Batwood%2B6%2Bgal%2Bheater%2Cautomotive%2C221&sr=1-17&th=1 Occasionally the connections collect enough corrosion to be a problem. RonB
I second Ron's recommendation of the thermal cutoff fuse as something everyone should have in their kit of spares. It's tiny, it's cheap, and I've used it more than once to bring back to life a failed water heater. Before you spend a hundred bucks for a replacement ignitor board, try replacing the thermal fuse.