I am wondering what type of wire connectors most of you like to use use when connecting 12 V wiring.
Considering ease-of-use, reliability and ability to withstand vibration. Any favorite brands or particular types of connectors?
Wago lever nut. If convenience and reliability are more important than cost.
Rich
Wago lever nut. If convenience and reliability and more important than cost.
Rich
Does a Wago connector fit multiple size gauge wire or do you have to order specific ones for specific gauges?
Hi Jack; Like most answers in the world, It depends. Lazy Daze used twisted wires with wire nuts for semi permanent connections of stranded wires, most places. Done well by an experience person, with new wires and new wire nuts, you get trouble free, small and uncomplicated almost permanent connections.
Lazy Daze would use black vinyl tape over the outside of the nuts to keep water out. I use plastic zip ties to keep multiple wires together. This ensures that if you pull the wires through a small hole (for instance in the ceiling, above a fixture) that the wires don't separate just out of reach.
Those WAGO connectors add too much bulk and complexity into the equation for my tastes. !2Vdc wiring in an RV have different challenges than residential wiring using solid copper conductors, say in a residence. That wiring is subject to National codes and inspection requirements.
For you with a 2006 rig, you should have some unused 12v fuses in your power center. I would run a red 14 gauge stranded wire, along with a companion black ground wire to wherever you plan to connect your Mini Starlink power connection. I'm going to put in a small switch to turn it on and off with.
This is the power supply that the Mini should work with. Amazon.com: Starlink Mini 12V Adapter DC Step Up Converter 12V to 30V 3.5A... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FCRZSM2S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details) and that I bought. (not installed yet). It provides 30 vdc that the mini works best with. Higher than the 12vdc that a car (RV) would provide. It has the proper connector already installed that your cable should just plug into. There are many wire runs inside split loom (Harbor Freight) already in my rig that I can run my wires through, to appropriate locations. RonB
Good stuff and thanks
A note about wire; I wanted to put a link for wire, available through Amazon. 14 Gauge 100% Copper Stranded Red Black Zip Cable | OFC 14 AWG (American... (https://www.amazon.com/American-Stranded-Conductor-Automotive-Amplifier/dp/B0CYPK6FGK/ref=sr_1_5?crid=XUO011JWGZ9Z&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.RBJtPUyGl4E3FqYUUr3xiinbFu3YFu0jiKMir-tXofEJwhxvIkaExz6fP4rrCqtIjCJAam_0tu4ks3mKM_TuLT_vlhyjuhZe44GXg4fGUbKXqIfDXuCeQo4-zXk0fxd7cCiwCEU-7utqeqRXQ8g12g1544_tOWr83JVtgS78GVcoUeOdwlXrlN0RWYT-0pdztRuSnxsaLOAQu8_7PMsPuXRrh_fMNQUTb6DnLFrfoKllvwOarm966SY9j5BWLdPd9yM9e9raXKJFOvYhvLu6X9DFY3uT-5W5bLr_LXxRY5o.XHDqkUUpubai-oU_bOIS7ihKdbPUxSQGqNGMsHL2bJ0&dib_tag=se&keywords=red%2Bblack%2Bwire%2Bpair%2C%2Bpure%2Bcopper%2C%2Bno%2Baluminum%2B14%2Bga&qid=1763228403&s=industrial&sprefix=red%2Bblack%2Bwire%2Bpair%2C%2Bpure%2Bcopper%2C%2Bno%2Baluminum%2B14%2Bga%2Cindustrial%2C233&sr=1-5&th=1)
I found a lot of wire available that was aluminum coated with a thin layer of copper, called copper clad aluminum. I've heard car restorers complain that this stuff can get small knicks in the wire, and corrosion can start inside the wire, traveling throughout quickly and essentially crumble in place. Causing unreliable connections, possibly fires, and not suitable for anything undergoing constant vibration. Much like what is encountered in our motorhomes.
It is a lot of work routing wiring through a motorhome. Not something you want to do twice! I'm relying on the description here that it is 100% copper. Anyone used to 'weasel wording' might suspect that the copper plated over the surface of the aluminum in copper clad aluminum wiring, would still be 100% copper. Just not very much of it. Same with the comment that it is oxygen free. A good thing with copper, but doesn't preclude that it could still refer to the coating over aluminum. RonB
Wago lever nuts are relatively new on the scene. They can handle a range of wire gauges, and they come in sizes, so make sure to buy the proper size for your projects.
I like them when I'm experimenting with a new circuit or project and expect to be changing things around until I'm satisfied, also known as breadboarding.
Wire nuts are fine if done correctly, but many do not like them because they can come apart if done poorly. Wire nuts are available in different sizes, depending on how many wires are to be joined and the wire gauge size.
Wire nuts are easy to mess up if you do not know what you are doing. Wago lever nuts are a snap to use and will not come apart, but they do use more space..
Take your pick.
Larry
Note that depending on application, strength of the connection may be the most important issue. This Youtube does not test the Wagos, but is otherwise useful:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=px3ZIYUOE4M
Steve
Really good video.
Ron, I fully agree that it doesn’t pay to cut corners on wiring, because you definitely don’t want to have to redo it. That said, I’m not sure why you’re considering cable that might or might not be aluminum coated, hoping you can trust the description. Why not buy cable that you know is good?
Source 1: Ancor marine cable. Available from Amazon, Fisheries Supply, or other marine resellers, it’s top quality. I’ve been using it for years, and can vouch for that. It’s copper, finely stranded, and tinned to prevent corrosion.
Source 2: Custom Cable and Wire | Marine Grade Cable and Wire Products (https://www.customcableusa.com/) i’ve purchased from them when I couldn’t get the Ancor cable I needed in time, and theirs is almost indistinguishable from Ancor cable: finely stranded tinned copper. What’s more, they will cut cable to length if you like - you don’t have to buy a 25’ spool.
With either source, I recommend jacketed 2-conductor cable. The outer jacket is an excellent protection against chafing, and the cable is much more robust than zip cord. Zip cord is fine for table lamps, but not the best choice for RV wiring.
Hi Andy, cca is copper clad aluminum. It looks and acts like copper wire. Fine stranding and all. Not being exposed to salt water, the tin plating is unnecessary. The poor descriptions and evasive wording make it hard to find real solid copper wiring. Yes, even the red and black wire pair embedded in a white vinyl jacket, supposedly ABYC approved, may be aluminum wiring. Here is one that on the reel states that it is CCA. TYUMEN 10 Gauge Wire 25FT, 10AWG Red Black Electrical Wire LED Strips... (https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Extension-Conductors-Flexible-Voltage/dp/B0FFMXVDSC/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=H3DD2&content-id=amzn1.sym.4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631%3Aamzn1.symc.5a16118f-86f0-44cd-8e3e-6c5f82df43d0&pf_rd_p=4efc43db-939e-4a80-abaf-50c6a6b8c631&pf_rd_r=4DS5249F6EERBX2BFFYC&pd_rd_wg=Bcyk3&pd_rd_r=9a28c975-a4b2-47aa-908f-c24ade4f9d9f&ref_=pd_hp_d_atf_ci_mcx_mr_ca_hp_atf_d&th=1)
Here is one That may be ok: Amazon.com: CONEPY 14 Gauge Marine Wire, 14/2 Duplex Marine Grade Cable,... (https://www.amazon.com/CONEPY-Waterproof-Oxygen-Free-Electrical-Automotive/dp/B0D7BL5QJZ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1WZQHT5FSZZGT&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.u7nOC3at8XiqHFDJTJQULbR2y9OZWOR26XC7xz26buk.JSZnUh3f0IP8k3y8yxQZL68ftXgRHbJq_EAZYT_hhwE&dib_tag=se&keywords=abyc%2Bcertified%2Bboating%2Bpair%2Bwire&qid=1763273366&s=industrial&sprefix=abyc%2Bcertified%2Bboating%2Bpair%2Bwire%2Cindustrial%2C208&sr=1-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1). The problem is that I can't just go to a store and buy it with any assurance that it isn't really CCA wire.
OK, In San Diego there are stores like West Marine that sell wire, I could go there and buy wire, but I prefer to have it delivered to me in suitable quantities as I need it, from Amazon. I was inspecting some Stribly '#2' wire pair (equal lengths of black and red with EPDM insulation) that I recently got through Amazon. Looking at the cut ends with a 10x loupe, it appears to be CCA wire. It didn't say it was, or wasn't. I'm using this to wire in another more modern SOK 206 battery. #3 for 600 AH plus.Shirbly 2 Gauge Battery Cable, 10FT Red + 10FT Black 2 AWG Pure Copper Wire... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CDLN1R23?ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
I did buy 15' red, 15' Black of 1/0 from Windy Nation (Amazon) that I believe is really all copper. Amazon.com: 1/0 Gauge 1/0 AWG 15 Feet Black + 15 Feet Red Welding Battery... (https://www.amazon.com/Welding-Battery-Copper-Flexible-Inverter/dp/B01MUC9JPA?pd_rd_w=REIsG&content-id=amzn1.sym.77199949-63b0-4ec0-8442-15be61cbffa5&pf_rd_p=77199949-63b0-4ec0-8442-15be61cbffa5&pf_rd_r=VVANVAXH9PDJDZJVS8T2&pd_rd_wg=n0wxK&pd_rd_r=0925cc6f-cf0c-4ed8-9e87-73b84690e438&pd_rd_i=B01MUC9JPA&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_26_t&th=1) I'm using this to improve the connection to my inverter. The voltage would 'sag' a little as my microwave cycled on and off. The #2 wire I had going to that will splice into the #6 cable supplied with my second roof air, over the rear dinette in my T/K. That is an OutEquipPro 10k btuh 12vdc unit, to supplement the 13.5k Dometic that is farther forward by the coach door/bathroom
Hard to tell without a spectrophotometer. (I used to be the 'guy' that worked on those at my work. RonB
Windy Nation is a local vendor, their store and warehouse are located in Ventura California. Any excuse to go to the beach.
When working on LDs, direct-burial, low-voltage wiring is the only zip-type cord I would use when adding wiring. The rubber coating is thick and tough, unlike the home variety of zip-cord. Run new wiring in wire loom split plastic tubing for additional protection.
Amazon.com: 30 FT 1/2” Wire Loom Split Tubing,Dog Cat Cord Protector,Split... (https://www.amazon.com/Wire-Split-Tubing-Protector-Conduit/dp/B0CQZFX33M/ref=asc_df_B0CQZFX33M?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80676856904096&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=80050&hvtargid=pla-4584276321200616&msclkid=5df4c0126097131ae0b5a90bec27101c&th=1)
Larry
Ron, your post has a lot of uncertainty: "can't just go to a store and buy it with any assurance" "may be ok", "appears to be", "didn't say it was, or wasn't", "I believe is really all copper"...
I don't like uncertainty, especially when it comes to DC wiring. And I won't use aluminum wire, no matter what it's coated with. I don't care if it's cheaper; wiring is an area where I won't cut costs. I buy tinned copper wire because there is nothing better for my purposes. It isn't just salt spray that corrodes copper; I've seen seriously corroded copper wire that had never been within hundreds of miles of blue water. That won't happen with tinned wire.
When I buy Ancor marine cable, or similar cable from Custom Cable, I know exactly what I'm getting. No shopping around for cable that "may be OK."
Painting contractor once told me "Paint is cheap", that a better grade of paint doesn't significantly raise the job cost.
I feel the same way about copper wiring, among other things.
Wire nuts are a “blind” connector - you can’t inspect the completed connection. The connection quality depends on matched wires, good technique, and finger strength.
Wago connectors allow noninvasive visual inspection.
Wire nuts don’t accommodate disparate wire sizes well. I’ve found the smaller wire does all the twisting around the larger wire, which lets the (untwisted = straight) larger wire pull out more easily over time. Same for solid versus stranded wire.
Wago handles varying wire sizes, solid and stranded, and multiple wires, without impairing connection quality.
Cost is negligible for either connector. The dominant costs are inconvenience and troubleshooting effort when something fails intermittently or inconveniently in the field, at night, with no help within miles.
Wago connectors allow you to release a wire individually, leaving the other wires securely connected. Useful to isolate a wire for troubleshooting.
Hi Keith; There is some 'technique' as with many 'arts' required to make a good joint with wire nuts. One is to stay with solid to solid as in residential wiring, and stranded with stranded for cars and our motorhomes. Mixing sizes adds more complexity, but with care, it can be done successfully.
I've been doing this as part of my hobbies since I was about 6. (lots of tubes and other hot stuff then) I also was employed in jobs that required a good knowledge of crimping tools, how to do a good crimp job, and soldering. I've inhaled a lot of lead oxide along the way, I'm sure. Along with various flux vapors.
A side line hobby of stained glass windows and other trinkets also exposed me to solid lead caming. Very tricky to solder pure lead, and the stronger copper foil assembly, which still required soldering. I built Heathkit items and the TV. Learned how to troubleshoot better also!
I routinely use longnose pliers to actually twist my bare conductors together, then apply the wire-nut. I use a Western Union type of splice if I'm going to solder a connection. I use a heat gun and heat shrink. I'm comfortable doing whatever connections I need to do. By all means if you want to use the Wago lever type splices, that's great.
As a reply to Andy; Years ago you could take it for granted that what looked like copper wire, especially when it was described as copper wire, really was. In the last two years the market has been invaded by copper clad aluminum wire. The purveyors of this product sometimes reveal it. Some neglect to mention it, and many very carefully conceal the fact that their wiring products contain aluminum. Many vendors who buy and sell by price, I think, are actually unaware of how pervasive this type of wire is, or not being actual users, just don't realize how unsuitable this stuff is for most tasks.
My comments were to alert our average Lazy Daze owners, who may have some experience in the past, that they should watch out for the (what I consider 'substandard') wire if they were to do any simple wiring projects in the 12 vdc category.
I searched for primary wire from Autozone and I got this from Home Depot (Not for commercial use!); https://www.homedepot.com/p/Lukyamzn-300-ft-12-Gauge-2-Conductors-Red-Black-Solid-Electrical-Wire-Cable-Low-Voltage-PVC-for-Speaker-LED-Automotive-Wire-PH00527B348/332825849 On the spool it is labeled copper clad aluminum wire. That fact is also mentioned in picture #2. So they aren't hiding it at least. The only comment is a one star, that mentions that it really isn't copper wire. RonB
Wire nuts are a “blind” connector - you can’t inspect the completed connection. The connection quality depends on matched wires, good technique, and finger strength.
Wago connectors allow noninvasive visual .....(more)
I'm with Keith on this. The video is interesting, but the only test that might be of any value is the voltage drop test, and without knowing the current used, it's not very helpful. The pull test is completely irrelevant, as no connector - or it's wire! - should be used under tension. The biggest difference between the connectors is weather resistance, which wasn't tested. Vibration resistance is also very important for our RV use, but wasn't tested, either. For a comment is that very thorough, and matches my experience as an electrical engineer for 33 years, search the comments for this name (don't let the oddness concern you!): АрсенийЯвтушенко-и7х