I stayed home for the summer and spent "quite a bit" of money for my annual RV check-up. New tires with alignment, and new shocks, plus replacing a generator pipe that got knocked out on my way home when I clipped a road repair heavy plastic cone. Getting ready to travel for the fall/winter to Mexico I went out to my storage facility and my propane alarm was beeping. After research I found that it has a 60 month life (which makes sense as it was replaced in 2020). I found the exact match and bought it and called my RV service person who hasn't scheduled me yet. I actually noticed in the photo that the red "bulb" has fallen out.
However, I looked up a YouTube video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jk7IBt5Abec) and the replacement seems pretty straightforward. Instead of paying my RV service guy to replace this, I think I could probably do it myself. I'm a little worried about getting shocked, since I'm not "all that handy." I'm thinking the only "specialized" tool I would need is something to strip the cover for the wires which I can probably pick up at Home Depot, Lowe's, or even Harbor Freight.
The video shows the fuse being attached to the wire, but if I flip the breaker in the control box will that shut off the battery power? Sorry, but I'm pretty clueless when it come to electrical issues - even simple ones. If I do it myself I could save the service call to the storage facility and the labor charge. I'm a little nervous, but I think I can do this. Thanks in advance... Cheryl
Cheryl, it’s a pretty simple job that you can handle. Trust me, if I can do it, you can do it! You can either pull the fuse (#7 on mine) at the power center or disable 12V power at the battery, then do the alarm replacement (two screws). You may need to strip the wires but using Wago type connectors will make the job easier in 5 years when the next replacement is due. Good luck!
Was my first “project” using Waygo connectors in my RV in 2022, and the easiest. You’ve got this.
I have one other tip to share about installing the new alarm. If your rig has a solar panel, pull the fuse for solar. Even if you have turned off the batteries, the solar system will still feed power through the DC circuits. It may not be a lot of power but it startled me when I saw a spark when I thought I had all power turned off.
Hi Cheryl; 'Breaker' usually refers to a 110v AC device. The fuse panel is 12v dc, and those fuses can be pulled out of that distribution board to disable 12v devices, on branch circuits. 12vdc can't shock you. (there may be current passing through you, but a very minor amount, that can't usually be felt) The danger with 12v dc is that two wires can contact each other and a tremendous amount of current could flow through the wires and burn you. Fuse(s) would blow out to protect the wires, and not cause a fire.
Greg is right, it can be easily changed, even without disconnecting the power. Just use the wire nuts that are probably there already. I'm not a fan of WAGO connectors. I've never used one, and I'm not likely to ever use one.
I watched the video... I wouldn't re-use a crimp on connector; I didn't know you could 'un-crimp' them! The 'red bulb' that fell out? is that the twist on wire nut? The new detector might come with new wire nuts. Lazy Daze generally used larger wires than necessary, a good thing. Re-using a wire nut for such a low power device is ok.
Make sure all of the copper strands are together inside the wire nut, and twist in the direction of a screw being tightened. (RH) The bare strands of wire should be twisted together tightly with your fingers, in the same direction that the wire nut would twist on, and then put the wire nut on after that, and twist until it is tight. Pull the wires afterwards to make sure they don't pull out of the 'nut'. If they do, then the wires weren't really connected well, or the nut wasn't tightened enough. The bare portions of the wires should be the same length. In the video you referenced, that person did ensure that there was enough and about equal amounts of wire to make a good joint. His use of the plier cutter was subpar and 'cringe worthy' to me. Use a wire stripper or cutter to cut the insulation back. Try not to cut any of the fine copper strands. A simple vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKnFyuTemqc
RonB
It takes longer to describe how to change the propane detector than it does to replace it.
Two screws, two wire nuts, connect the colored wires the same way. Ten minutes max.
Take the money you save and buy lunch.
Larry
In my opinion the wago connectors make it easier to get a solid connection, visually verify the solid connection, and easier to disconnect next time you replace the alarm. Each wire has its own connector, so you make the connection in two confident steps, whereas a wire nut twists both wires together, and could only grab one wire securely and one not securely, but you would not know it. Anyway, wire nuts are still highly reliable, just not superior to wago connectors. I’ve seen wires become loose in wire nuts, but when connecting 3 or 4 wires.
If you need to connect a heavier wire with a lighter wire, wire nuts are a little less reliable, but wago connectors are still solid.
In my experience, a lot more things can go wrong with a wire nut connection than with a Wago connection. For anything that I may want to change later, I prefer Wagos.
That said, for a permanent connection nothing beats FTZ Crimp 'N Seal butt splices (https://www.fisheriessupply.com/ftz-industries-crimp-n-seal-butt-splices). They're gas-tight, watertight, and mechanically strong.
[Merge here - Michelle]
Today on a sunny September afternoon, I went out to my storage facility filled with the good feeling that even though I'm a senior female I could change out the propane detector for the same model. First of all the reset button didn't stop the beeping, but I thought I'd find the fuse either on the wire or in the controller box. Uh, no.
When I took off the screws, I got the "old" feeling that someone who didn't know exactly what they were doing took some shortcuts that make it more difficult to fix/resolve an issue. Videos that I had watched were pretty straightforward and I thought "easy peasy." First the last installer of the propane detector used heat shrink butt/crimp connectors and I have no idea how to remove them. At one point one of the wires changed color and a large cylinder that I thought might house the fuse doesn't.
I'm not stupid, but I'm a retired teacher and electrical issues are certainly not my forte. However, if someone can walk me through and tell me where to cut wires. I think I can do this. Thanks in advance... Cheryl
Hi Cheryl; Lazy Daze used a yellow wire for a secondary hot lead. That tells you that there are other things connected to that fuse besides the LP detector. In this case the space heater. The manufacturer of the detector doesn't know that, so the red wire is good. They are both 'hot' but only 12v dc.
That gray tube does contain a tubular glass fuse. Good because your old detector was beeping. You can leave it there. To look at it, twist the outer housing while holding the end that it isn't attached to the part you are twisting. You my have to slightly compress (make it shorter) to release the self locking.
The dark blue plastic tubes are crimped butt splices. They stay. Cut the wires just as they enter the light blue tubes. They are also butt splices, that connect the old LPG detector.
If you are going to use the Wago splicer devices. The hot yellow lead with the tubular fuse in line goes to the same wago that the new LPG detector red lead goes to. The other Wago device goes to the black wire of the new LPG detector, and the black wire coming from the dark blue butt splice.
Energized for the first time, the new LPG detector goes through an extensive self test, and may take a few minutes before it stops alarming. You should be able to silence it during this wait. It might come back on. After a while (3-4 minutes) it should stay on with a green light. Good for 5 years (give or take a few months. I would write on the back the date you installed it. (for 4 1/2 years from now).
A little history: houses were wired with black wires for hot. Red dyes at the time turned turned black anyway. White as a 'surrendering flag' was safe as a neutral. Or in the old days a ground. Now green, bare copper (turns green with a patina), or really green as in ground with plants growing. At the entrance to a house the ground wire is actually connected to the white wire, in the main box.
Cars were wired with black as the ground (asphalt color?) and red as the hot lead. Pretty much still are. Same things for 12v vehicles, the Lazy Daze is a vehicle. Modern items now come with white and red. Hot and ground. I think the florescent fixtures are red and white.
But it is still proper, like your new LP detector, to come with red (positive) and black (ground or chassis common).
You will need to strip some insulation off of the wires you cut off of the light blue butt splices. Try not to nick the small strands of wire inside the plastic. About 3/8" is good. The Wago connectors may have a strip gauge to indicate how much pvc insulation to remove. Twist the bare wire strands together to make it easier to insert into the wago. edit: (on the package 11 mm. equals 7/16") RonB
p.s., this is very orderly wiring. I've seen much much! worse.
Hi Cheryl; Lazy Daze used a yellow wire for a secondary hot lead. That tells you that there are other things connected to that fuse besides the LP detector. In this case the space heater. The manufacturer of the detector doesn't know that, so the red wire is good. They are both 'hot' but only 12v dc.
That gray tube does contain a tubular glass fuse. Good because your old detector was beeping. You can leave it there. To look at it, twist the outer housing while holding the end that it isn't attached to the part you are twisting. You my have to slightly compress (make it shorter) to release the self locking.
The dark blue plastic tubes are crimped butt splices. They stay. Cut the wires just as they enter the light blue tubes. They are also butt splices, that connect the old LPG detector.
If you are going to use the Wago splicer devices. The hot yellow lead with the tubular fuse in line goes to the same wago that the new LPG detector red lead goes to. The other Wago device goes to the black wire of the new LPG detector, and the black wire coming from the dark blue butt splice.
Energized for the first time, the new LPG detector goes through an extensive self test, and may take a few minutes before it stops alarming. You should be able to silence it during this wait. It might come back on. After a while (3-4 minutes) it should stay on with a green light. Good for 5 years (give or take a few months. I would write on the back the date you installed it. (for 4 1/2 years from now).
A little history: houses were wired with black wires for hot. Red dyes at the time turned turned black anyway. White as a 'surrendering flag' was safe as a neutral. Or in the old days a ground. Now green, bare copper (turns green with a patina), or really green as in ground with plants growing. At the entrance to a house the ground wire is actually connected to the white wire, in the main box.
Cars were wired with black as the ground (asphalt color?) and red as the hot lead. Pretty much still are. Same things for 12v vehicles, the Lazy Daze is a vehicle. Modern items now come with white and red. Hot and ground. I think the florescent fixtures are red and white.
But it is still proper, like your new LP detector, to come with red (positive) and black (ground or chassis common).
You will need to strip some insulation off of the wires you cut off of the light blue butt splices. Try not to nick the small strands of wire inside the plastic. About 3/8" is good. The Wago connectors may have a strip gauge to indicate how much pvc insulation to remove. Twist the bare wire strands together to make it easier to insert into the wago. RonB
p.s., this is very orderly wiring. I've seen much much! worse.
Thanks Ron for bearing with me. I'm so very sorry to ask so many questions as I feel like an idiot. The reason I want to do this myself is my RV person will charge me $80 for a service call just to come to my RV storage - then the hourly rate to replace the detector. The connectors do have a strip gauge to measure how much to remove. One person suggested cutting way up at the top of the blue connectors, but if I understand correctly I'm cutting (and connecting) much further down and it won't hurt to leave the other elements in place. I added one more photo with arrows where I think I need to cut then attach the new detector and if I'm careful to do one side at a time I shouldn't get shocked. Someone suggest I could do it at the top (indications in red) but I'll defer to you.
Hi Cheryl. No, cut the wires on the other side of the light blue splices, right up against them. They stay with the old LP detector and are discarded. There is enough wire left to remove about 7/16" of insulation to fit in the Wago connectors. They are replacing the light blue butt splices. Those old crimped splices are not ever reusable despite what that video said. That said, you could cut the red and black wires going to the old detector about midway, and use the Wago's to join the red to the new red, and the black to the new black. One wire at a time to not short them to the wrong wire. There is no shock hazard here.
I'd say it is impossible to get an electric shock from 12 volts. I used to test 9v batteries by licking the terminals. That will tell you if the battery has any 'juice' left in it. I worked with a tech who would touch live 110v AC circuits to see if they were energized. I've done that accidentally, not recommended! The problems happen when what you think is a low voltage circuit, and it isn't! And also working on circuits you think are dead (off) and aren't. Yes, I have worked on live AC circuits, You have to be careful and know what you are doing. I'm still around, but I turn off things when I can before I work on it.
Here is a picture of the wiring in the back 'license' area of my rig. It is in the middle of being worked on, and another I worked on. (JOR does good work too, better at labeling than I). RonB
Cheryl, I merged your update into the original topic. It's best to keep all the related discussion in one place.
Michelle