Hello everyone! I see that a few people have replaced the escape hatch lids, but I have received my second one, and it's a little larger than the one currently on my 2005 26.5 LD. Has anyone replaced it with this issue? What modifications, if needed, should I make?
Hi Dee; Welcome to the group! (FOLD Fellowship Of Lazy Dazers), or the traditional Lazy Daze Owners Forum.
How much bigger are we talking about? If the lid will still sit down on the sealing edge of the escape hatch framework, then it should work. It might interfere with the CB radio bracket. The hinge may not fit into the new bracket either (that is attached to the new lid.) RonB
I was emailing with Todd a bit earlier in the year and he was working with a company to get a batch made. Not sure if that came to fruition though. This post just reminded me to send him an email. I will let you know what he says.
Precisely how much larger (eg 1/4" all around?), is the hinge compatible once the old one is removed, and can you mount the cross-bar for the lift hardware? If 2 & 3 are positive and #1 is slight and symmetric, then it should work.
Steve
If the hinge on the new cover is incompatible with the escape hatch, the rivets can be drilled out and the old hinge pop-riveted to the new cover.
Larry
Still no progress from the company that he is trying to get to manufacture the hatches. He said he might have to go with a different company and that will also take a while. He did send this picture and said this Heng's hatch is the one that would work best for my 2011.
Thankfully mine is still functional but I am just looking to have a backup on hand.
Hello Dee,
We do not have an escape hatch on our 2015 Rear Bath, however, I have repaired the roof vents on our rig using Flex Seal Clear Liquid. If your Hatch is mostly intact or only cracked, perhaps my hack can buy you some time until you can locate the correct hatch cover.
I was having water intrusion either through cracks in the vent lid or the surrounding seal on the roof. The center vent had several hairline cracks in the cover. I purchased the Flex Seal Clear Liquid at Home Depot for about $35. Amazon.com: Flex Seal Liquid, Rubber Coating Sealant, Waterproof, Flexible,... (https://a.co/d/1XxVURa) (This is the Amazon link for what I believe is the product I used.
I also purchased Dicor Non-Leveling Sealant to spread over the existing Dicor sealant around the vents. Dicor 651SANSW-1 NON-Leveling... Amazon.com: Dicor 651SANSW-1 NON-Leveling Ultra Sealant System - 10.1 Oz,... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0949J5PQZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)
I applied 3 coats of Flex Seal to each vent and 2 coats of Dicor around the vents. Allowing the product to dry overnight between each coat.
If your hatch needs some stabilization, you may need to use painters tape from below (inward facing surface). This hack for you is only a suggestion as a stop gap. NOTE: If you attempt this repair, you will need to use the flex seal on the top (top surface of the hatch).
Just a thought. Here is a picture of my repair. My repair is holding perfectly. One day I will replace the original vents but until then I am very satisfied with the repair.
Kent
This is the one I installed a few years ago, it was just fine. It was smaller than the one posted above. It was 18" by 25".
Amazon.com: Heng's 90008-C1-LO Escape Hatch LID ONLY fits Current Model... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GR9TH6J)
Heng's 90008-C1-LO Escape Hatch LID ONLY fits Current Model 58621-C2 - RV Fan - White - 18' x 25' - Modern Style - Cross Bar Included, No Arm Crank
When I had a issue with the plastic lid on the escape hatch on my 2010 Rear Bath, I removed the plastic from the mounting hardware and took it to a sheet metal fabrication shop. They used it as a model to make a new aluminum one. Before reattaching the mounting hardware I glued foil bubble wrap inside the cover for insulation and a rubber seal around the edges that contact the vent frame. I never had any issues after that.
When I had a issue with the plastic lid on the escape hatch on my 2010 Rear Bath, I removed the plastic from the mounting hardware and took it to a sheet metal fabrication shop. They used it as a model to make a new aluminum one. Before reattaching the mounting hardware, I glued foil bubble wrap inside the cover for insulation and a rubber seal around the edges that contact the vent frame. I never had any issues after that.
Years ago, one of the LD Caravan Club members had several aluminum hatch covers fabricated, too bad I missed out on it. They were expensive but a one-and-done solution.
On our escape hatch, I glued in a closed-cell backpacker foam pad, covered by a piece of dark blue indoor/outdoor carpet for insulation. It made a big difference in temperature control.
Larry
I used the same replacement as referenced in Reply #7. It went in easily and fit just fine.