Previous owner installed a B832 Roadmaster Reflex Steering Stabilizer (because the part was manufactured in 2020).
https://www.roadmasterinc.com/content/pdfinst/RBK24.pdf
One of the bolts stripped the threads in the chassis frame, probably during install. Found the lose bolt during an inspection, could not tighten the bolt (would just spin) and took great effort extracting the bolt.
Hoped maybe the original M10 10.9 bolt was just damaged, and the thread was good, but a fresh bolt confirmed that my original frame thread is toast.
Would like to resolve this while still on Vancouver Island, it’s not Alaska remote, but it ain’t the lower 48 either.
Recommendations?
Tap it for a M11?
Fix the thread with a Heli-Coil or Time-Sert insert?
Force a slightly larger standard bolt in?😬
Remove the Reflex Steering Stabilizer as unnecessary on a TK?
Assuming the current thread pitch is 1.5, I would simply re-thread the hole to 7/16"-14 (UNC) with a good quality "tapered lead in" tap. Go slow and lots good cutting oil. Then use a 7/16" UNC grade 8 bolt of the correct length.
Not sure if standard thread bolts are available there... if not, 11 mm should also work if available (use the same thread pitch you have now if possible.)
If that didn't work, then insert.
Good idea, I have seen standard bolts, not sure about finding a standard tap kit, maybe Canadian Tire will have a combo set.
Our '04 came from Ford with a stabilizer, so I would nix eliminating it. If you rethread, drill first with the proper size for the tap you use. Else if you can access up the backside with a longer M10, then use a nut to secure.
Steve
If you can return the steering using the stock-type stabilizer, that would be my choice. I see no need for a centering type addition, especially if clamped to the tie-rod. If and when the clamp slips, the steering will pull hard to one side until readjusted. Absolutely unneeded.
I use Heli-coils to repair stripped threads.
Larry
Our '04 came from Ford with a stabilizer, so I would nix eliminating it. If you rethread, drill first with the proper size for the tap you use. Else if you can access up the backside with a longer M10, then use a nut to secure.
The Reflex Steering Stabilizer isn’t original, it’s added to the existing stabilizer system, unless I am mistaken, for 2017.
No way to access the backside unless it’s with a 7-8 inch bolt
When I was typing up the post, I thought to myself Larry is going to suggest removing that contraption hanging off the tie rod
Though to be fair, also need to be thinking new shocks at 57,000 miles, especially with a lot being in Alaska and Newfoundland
When I was typing up the post, I thought to myself Larry is going to suggest removing that contraption hanging off the tie rod
Though to be fair, also need to be thinking new shocks at 57,000 miles, especially with a lot being in Alaska and Newfoundland
I make this suggestion after readjusting or removing several self-centering devices, including on Joan Taylor’s LD.
They are a solution looking for a problem. When the stabilizer needs replacement, Bilstein makes a high quality replacement.
Larry
Where those "centering springs" shine is if you ever have a front blow out.
It doesn't seem like they'd do much? However, the difference in control is stunning. Where I worked, we installed them on our fleet of Class 8 trucks. If a front blows out on a loaded rig, even with power steering it can be nearly impossible to come to a straight, safe, stop. We even had a driver injured when the steering wheel was ripped out of his hands as he struggled to steer and stop the truck after a front blow out.
The ones we used didn't have a "shock absorber", just centering springs that looked too small to me to do anything. But in practice they worked just like the promotional video we were shown. Our drivers loved them.
I’m removing it today, can always add it back when I fix the thread.
Since I’m at 57k on miles, any shock absorber recommendations?
I’m removing it today, can always add it back when I fix the thread.
My TK agreed with my decision to remove, and decided to make the removal permanent.
The few miles I drove today without the bolt that no longer tightens was enough to snap the unit, didn’t hear the event.
So I won’t be reinstalling😇
Still having a mechanic evaluate the suspension tomorrow. So if there are components that should be checked/replaced after 57k miles, I’m all ears.