So I received the new battery switch and would like to install it but have a question first. To do this in an electrically safe manner, will turning off the lithium batteries (using the switch on top of the batteries) and pulling the fuse for solar input do the trick? Obviously, I won’t be hooked up to shore power or running the generator.
As long as you remove all sources of power (e.g., batteries and solar charging controller), you should be fine. If you have any doubts, use a multimeter to verify that the 12 VDC system is dead.
So I received the new battery switch and would like to install it but have a question first. To do this in an electrically safe manner, will turning off the lithium batteries (using the switch on top of the batteries) and pulling the fuse for solar input do the trick? Obviously, I won’t be hooked up to shore power or running the generator.
Where are you planning on installing the switch?
If on top of the battery as it was originally, I would cover all the battery terminals. One false slip could produce a lot of damage and possibly harm to yourself.
Lithium batteries can produce a huge amount of amperage for short durations.
Larry
I would cover all the battery terminals.
Second that. You can just throw a rug or something over the batteries.
jor
Where are you planning on installing the switch?
If on top of the battery as it was originally, I would cover all the battery terminals. One false slip could produce a lot of damage and possibly harm to yourself.
Lithium batteries can produce a huge amount of amperage for short durations.
Larry
Good suggestions. I need to pull the RV out of its parking location to access the battery compartment to take a look-see. Any suggestions for a mounting location?
I connected my switch on the negative cable, next to the batteries in the (original) battery box to minimize cable length. In the photo, it’s at the upper left. You can just see the red handle, and the label stating which direction is ON and OFF.
Nice install, Keith! Are you able to access the switch easily?
Actually, yes. The ON and OFF legends on the switch body are hard to read, so I added the labels you can see for CW and CCW.
Although it was probably over priced, I bought the one Lazy Daze sold about 5 years ago that gets wedged between the two batteries, so mounting was easy.
Although it was probably over priced, I bought the one Lazy Daze sold about 5 years ago that gets wedged between the two batteries, so mounting was easy.
Hi Steve. I also have the factory disconnect switch but I’m told it’s no longer appropriate with my recent lithium battery and 2K watt inverter installation so an upgrade was suggested.
I am attempting to swap out the factory battery disconnect switch with a Blue Sea unit. The new unit has connections labeled “input” and “output” but the old switch does not. Which cable needs to go where? Would input be coming from the batteries? Hopefully these photos help.
I am attempting to swap out the factory battery disconnect switch with a Blue Sea unit. The new unit has connections labeled “input” and “output” but the old switch does not. Which cable needs to go where? Would input be coming from the batteries? Hopefully these photos help.
The ‘input’ connects to the battery, and the ‘output ‘ goes to the coach.
Larry
The ‘input’ connects to the battery, and the ‘output ‘ goes to the coach.
Thank you, Larry! Just out of curiosity, what would happen if the cables were reversed? Would the switch just work backwards or would the smoke be let out? :o
Success, and all the smoke stayed in! 👍👍 The cable above the switch is a bit longer than needed so I should probably shorten it to make it look pretty. And, I don’t like the way all the terminals are connected on a single post.
Anyone need a factory battery disconnect switch in good condition? Just pay shipping and it’s yours!
Thank you, Larry! Just out of curiosity, what would happen if the cables were reversed? Would the switch just work backwards or would the smoke be let out? :o
Unless I am missing something, besides the fact that I am not Larry LOL. It would work the same, unless it has a light on it or something. It probably has to do with the internals, the live side is probably less exposed for safety, but off would still be off and on still on.
Unless I am missing something, it would work the same.
Yes, it’s an on-off switch, and it doesn’t matter which way the switch is connected. If a switch is labeled, it’s best to wire it the way indicated to prevent future confusion.
You now have a sealed battery switch that is rated to carry the amperage that your inverter draws.
Larry
I've always been puzzled by Blue Sea labeling SPST switch terminals "Input" and "Output." Electrically, this makes no sense. I'd love to see an authoritative explanation.
I think FEED and LOAD might have been a better choice for the labeling - not that it matters electrically.
Steve
I have to disagree, Steve. That would be just as misleading as INPUT and OUTPUT. There's no reason for any labeling. When have you ever seen any other SPST switch labeled as if it had polarity?
One connotation of “input” or “supply” or “source” is to make it explicitly clear to some unfamiliar future maintainer which side is always energized whether the switch is ON or OFF. Of course, from an electrical circuit standpoint, it makes no difference.
"One connotation of 'input' or 'supply' or 'source' is to make it explicitly clear to some unfamiliar future maintainer which side is always energized"
That's a point. It can be useful to know that. And that's probably why Blue Sea labels the battery switch terminals that way. Thanks for clearing that up, Keith!