With the electrical upgrades close to being completed, I'm planning on replacing the Dometic absorption fridge in our midbath. My two primary preferences are a Danfoss compressor and easy retrofit. I've no issues capping off the propane or getting the necessary 12V supply there, but finish carpentry is not my forte. It would be nice if something fit the opening without need for additional trim work, but perhaps that's overly hopeful.
I've a number of friends who are quite happy with their Vitrifrigos in other applications, including vans and marine. And, I've seen mention of the DP2600i in RV retrofits. Anyone here make this transition recently? Within reason, I'm not too concerned with cost. Quality of manufacture and dependability is a higher priority.
Hi Will; I looked up the NovaKool brand back when Debbie (in Venice) was having trouble finding a new Dometic gas fridge. fridge replacement (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=39258.msg255298#msg255298) They had replacement with essentially the same space footprint. I wanted one that wouldn't exhaust hot air into the coach, and would use the standard side wall vent and roof vent.
Direct to that thread: DC Refrigerator (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=39121.msg253387#msg253387)
JayWay found this Dometic that should fit. Amazon.com: Dometic DMC4081CFRH RV Refrigerator - 8 cu.ft. Storage, 12VDC... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097RY74R5/ref=nosim?tag=scmcldo-20) RonB
JayWay found this Dometic that should fit. Amazon.com: Dometic DMC4081CFRH RV Refrigerator - 8 cu.ft. Storage, 12VDC... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097RY74R5/ref=nosim?tag=scmcldo-20)
While the DM4081 will fit in the opening in Will's LD, it is almost three inches deeper and would require spacing the refrigerator out to accommodate the greater depth.
Larry
I installed the Norcold N8DC. No compartment mods necessary. Lots more room than the absorption.
jor
I installed the Norcold N8DC. No compartment mods necessary. Lots more room than the absorption.
jor
The 8 cubic foot model will fit; the 10 cubic foot model is three inches deeper. Either way, they have more interior capacity than the stock absorption refrigerators.
Now, I wish there were real-world power consumption reports, especially during very hot weather.
The amp-hours of power consumed each day are an important number when determining how much battery and solar is needed to provide power for the refrigerator and other needs, without exceeding the solar panels' ability to fully recharge the battery daily.
I see a big difference in how much power our 40-quart compressor ice chest uses in the summer compared to winter usage. 12-volt refrigerators are going to have the same differences in seasonal consumption. One thing that concerns me is having to park in the summer sun to keep the battery charged.
Larry
"One thing that concerns me is having to park in the summer sun to keep the battery charged."
That's where portable panels come in handy. :-)
"One thing that concerns me is having to park in the summer sun to keep the battery charged."
That's where portable panels come in handy. :-)
It would take a bunch of folding panels to run a 12-volt refrigerator in the summer. In situations where we use all 150' of the Starlink's cable to find a clear view of the sky, folding solar panels would be worthless, or we would need a huge roll of heavy cable to cover the distance. The voltage drop over a 150' run would be very high.
The absorption refrigerator needs no special attention and prefers to be in the shade.
Larry
OK, fair enough. Situations I've been in involved parking in open shade (so the roof panels brought in some power) and running twenty or thirty feet of cable to my portable panels, sitting in a clearing... same with the Starlink. In the situation you describe, portable panels would be impractical, I agree.
For those who have installed various models of compressor fridges, I would be interested knowing how the increased noise of operation is noticeable? Seems to me it would be like sleeping in a residential kitchen. All our previous home fridges have made enough noise I would not want to be sleeping near them. Our current one, however, is virtually inaudible unless the icemaker is doing its thing...
Steve
Now, I wish there were real-world power consumption reports, especially during very hot weather.
These quotes are from my post a couple of years ago:
Energy Use: I took the readings every morning at the same time. The average 24 hour watt hour usage over 25 days is 577.8. So it's consuming about half the energy stored in a 100 ah lithium battery. I'm pleased with this as I expected it to be less efficient. I would be interested knowing how the increased noise of operation is noticeable?
The Norcold makes an endearing bubbling noise. Not loud but noticeable.Regarding energy use in hot weather. Seems to me it was pretty hot when I took my measurements but I'm not sure of the exact dates. I think I'll attach my little amp meter again this summer and report back.
Link to Previous Post: Norcold Report (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=39197.msg253779#msg253779)
jor
These quotes are from my post a couple of years ago:
Energy Use: I took the readings every morning at the same time. The average 24 hour watt hour usage over 25 days is 577.8. So it's consuming about half the energy stored in a 100 ah lithium battery. I'm pleased with this as I expected it to be less efficient.[
What time of year was that, and what were the average daytime and night temperatures?
Our compressor ice chest uses over twice the power in the summer as in the winter, I assume a compressor refrigerator would have greatly increased power usage in hot weather, maybe more since it can have greater exposure to the sun's heat.
We often encounter summer temps over (sometimes way over) 100 degrees; these are the conditions I'm most interested in since we are year-round campers and mostly dry camp.
Larry
What time of year was that, and what were the average daytime and night temperatures?
I wish I had dated my little spreadsheet. I know we had some hot weather. We're in Arizona and we do a lot of camping here and in New Mexico. Like I said, I'll do a good test in the hot weather this year. I'll install my little gizmo before our next trip which should be in a week or so.
jor
While not fool proof, you could look to see when the file (spreadsheet) was last modified. That might give you a date that's "close enough". (But you probably already thought of that.) NWS climate data could give you highs and lows for those dates.
Ken
you could look to see when the file (spreadsheet) was last modified.
Great idea. It indicates December, 2023. I thought it was during the warmer months. Maybe I modified it later. Anyhow, I reinstalled the gizmo today and I'll get some good data in hot weather for posting.
jor
I am loving the
Amazon.com: Dometic DMC4081CFRH RV Refrigerator - 8 cu.ft. Storage, 12VDC... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097RY74R5/ref=nosim?tag=scmcldo-20)
that I installed in my TK, it is only deeper than the absorption it replace in the way it mounts. the body of the unit is flush to the cabinets and the doors extend into the living space. a minor inconvenience considering the increased storage. I did opt to eliminate the drawer below the fridge so I could go with the 10cf. i have a lot of battery and a lot of solar so I never have to worry about it
Ill take a photo and post it
Thanks for the photo Jay. Too bad Dometic couldn't come up with an actual photo of the left hand hinge model. It also looks like the Dometic picture has the Depth and Width dimensions reversed. To me the back of the 'fridge to the front where the doors are would be the depth. On my T/K with the '99 E350 8 foot wide chassis, compared with the E450 T/K you have on the 8'-6" wide chassis, is the depth of the refrigerator space still 24", like on mine?
I like having the drawer underneath, so I could go with the 8 cubic foot model. The stainless door looks good, but after 25 years I'm used to the woodgrain door panel look. To go with the all electric 'fridge I'd need another battery (or more).
RonB
The LH and the RH model are the same, the door is just reversible. I agree with you on the wood grain, I miss it but I love going from 6. Something to 10 CU FT. I have 800 amp hours and 1300 watts so I don't worry about a thing and leave it on high all the time.
I have had 2 Novakools in previous rigs and am 100% sold on them. 1 was a 5.8 cubic foot under cabinet in a 4 wheel drive Tiger class C, the other was a 9.1 cubic foot in my Country Coach diesel. It drew 5.5 amps when running. If my Lazy Daze Dometic goes out it will definately be a Novakool for me.