I'm in the process of replacing my rear amber clearance lights.
I ordered Peterson PM-102 replacements. Unfortunately they are cheaply made and not waterproof,
you're also required to drill a hole in the bottom of the mounting plate to feed the RV's wires through.
I'm looking for suggestions for replacement clearance lights. Preferably waterproof and where the negative and positive wires feed through the mounting plate. My clearance lights measure 2.75"
Thank you!
Mark
Hi Mark; My lights are Peterson PM-15A (amber) and 15R (red). The rear lenses are red, front are amber. Are you replacing the bases also? I replace the cap lenses every few years, but just snap them into place (a little silicone grease helps. They are 2 7/16" diameter. The lenses craze and break apart from the UV light. The LD factory did drill holes in the base plate, and sealed it well. I wish they had used non rusting stainless screws. I have been unable to find new bases. I replaced the #193 bulbs with LED equivalent. The multiple LED di are colored LED's independent of the lense colors. RonB
edited(added on) These Grote lights might work. Salesforce B2B Commerce (https://www.fleetpride.com/parts/grote-marker-light-45413?gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwpP63BhDYARIsAOQkATZao5r2c05O3Mr-DFrqHNJlDfojhr8Y_OqCotM25-DWQm-VL5HlruMaAlHGEALw_wcB) Mounted upside down, so that water doesn't sit in the contacts area, you could drill holes behind the bulb itself, and pass wires in and out of the back into the body of the motorhome itself. I would rewire that so that the junction daisy chaining each bulb was inside the end (front) cap. In mine the fiberglass material would keep the wires accessible from outside. It would be some work though. I would also replace the incandescent bulb with 194 / 168 / T10 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Retrofit - 95... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/led-light-bulbs-universal-finder/wedge-base-bulbs/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-base+color-Red+packamt-Single) for better reliability and trueness of color. Less power too. 630nm is a good color of red that matches the cap lenses. Also available in amber. RonB
Hi Ron.
The lights that came with my RV were leaking causing corrosion, The bulb socket is also a mess. If I thought I could get away with just replacing the bulb and re-caulking I would. The replacements I purchased only has one black wire. You're required to drill a hole in the mounting plate to feed the rv wires through. There are many way water can enter.
I'm looking for suggestions for replacement clearance lights. Preferably waterproof and where the negative and positive wires feed through the mounting plate. My clearance lights measure 2.75"
Thank you!
Mark
Mark, here’s what I used, not sure if it’s what you’re looking for. They look and work perfectly for my 2003 RB. Mine are circular, not sure what you have. If you use the keyword “clearance” using my username, you’ll be able to pull up the thread where I posted a pic.
https://www.etrailer.com/p-MCL0040RBB.html
They have red and orange versions.
Hope that helps.
Edit: we did pull off the foam backing before mounting.
Thank you.
Kinda pricy. But that's what I'm looking for.
How did you seal the light once mounted?
Our RV Solar guy did the install at the time we were having the solar installed. I bought them from etrailer and had them delivered to his shop.
What we talked about was 1)removing the foam backing off the back of the sealed light, 2) applying sealant behind the light before installing, and 3) after mounting, applying a bead of sealant around the outside perimeter of the light where it lays flat against the RV — only from about the 7 o’clock position to about the 5 o’clock position to allow for any errant drainage.
Seems to have done the job. But I don’t think they’ll be fun to remove if that’s ever needed. These include the LED bulbs and after spending a ton of time trying to find ones that fit, probably just like you, I didn’t care about that price (which may have been a bit lower when I bought).
Jason
Thanks Jason!
These appear the same, but they might gouge you for shipping? They have yellow too
Optronics LED Low Prof 2.5 Marker/Clearance Red Reflx Gasket Polypack - MCL0040R (https://www.vehiclesafetysupply.com/optronics-led-low-prof-marker-clearance-red-reflx-gasket-polypack-mcl0040rbbp-p-176346.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwx4O4BhAnEiwA42SbVC_xxcQuBocKR0YWRuteUIPtl7k1c2r2oi7F9DM5VK64HaRwnfRFShoCqywQAvD_BwE&gad_source=4)
And $10 on amazon.
Hi Mark; These LED lights mentioned in a thread by Larry two years ago, Reply #1. Finding new marker lights (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=38314.msg246670#msg246670) seem to be updated versions (LED) of the lights that you and I have. Lazy daze did drill a hole on the base, pull the wires through and use copious amounts of sealant to ensure no water leaks into the inside wall. After 25 years I don't seem to have any leaks through the light fixtures. Use good sealant. RonB
Thanks Ron.
I think at some point the previous owner of my LD removed the marker lights to paint the rear. After reattaching the lights they wear not sealed properly, thus allowing water to intrude. If you'll notice in the attached photo paint is bubbling around the base. My current lights need to be removed to fix the paint, reattach lights and properly seal.
I wanted to hi-lite this thread for DTBBACK (Will) who was asking about new marker lights for his 1999 MB at a recent Caravan Club meeting. There may be other members of the facebook group that could use this information also.
I still have my original light fixtures. Far as I can tell they don't allow water inside the walls. But I did replace all of the bulbs with LED versions of the 194 incandescent bulbs.
As referenced earlier in this thread: 194 / 168 / T10 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Retrofit - 95... (https://www.superbrightleds.com/led-light-bulbs-universal-finder/wedge-base-bulbs/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-base+color-Red+packamt-Single)
And for those like Will, who will need to replace the current dependent Ford flasher unit for the turn signal lights, with an electronic timer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5RKI8/ref=nosim?tag=scmcldo-20 There may be other plug in timers also available, but this is the one I've used in two LD's. RonB
I'd be curious to know if anyone has a solution for a cracked bulb base (the socket, shown in the 2nd picture of reply #2 above), short of replacing the fixture?
Like others, I still have original fixtures with incandescent bulbs. Everything seems watertight, but the lights go in and out because the bulb moves around slightly in the socket. Wiggling the bulbs slightly make them light up again.
I would love to replace the socket inside the fixture. Some of mine are just loose, but some are visibly cracked.
Ideas?
Rich
...........................................I would love to replace the socket inside the fixture. .............................
I just did this for a friend's RV.... Her upper rear marker lights were constant trouble. I cut the original L194 incandescent bulb holders from the base as a few just would not make reliable contact with the bulbs anymore or the rivets had corroded/loosened and the wires didn't have solid connections. I found some LED marker lights on Amazon, carefully removed the approximately 3/4" square LED board, and used DAP to glue the new LED board into original lights. The original bases were left as is and the wiring connected under the original lens
I didn't take pictures, but if needed I still have some new LED lamps and could take pics of removing the LED board from these lights: Amazon.com: Dream lighting 12V DC 2.5inch Round LED Side Marker Lights for... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0915HHTKZ/)
(The red lights use a red LED and the amber lights use amber LED's... so even if a lens is temporarily lost, the light will still be the correct color... unexpected bonus! )
Hi Mark (NADAZE); I need to revisit you about your marker lights. The corrosion around your light fixture is because the paint was broken around the edge, exposing that aluminum to any salty water that drips off of the roof and around the fixture. I doubt that the fixture was removed. My fixtures are very sealed where the wires go through the baseplate in to the interior of the wall. Water could penetrate where the mounting screws are, but they should be there. There should be no connection at the ground sheet metal. The white wire does that. Your new fixture is upside down. Where it says 'top', that goes down. The drainage hole goes up, and is sealed with caulking.
At the dash mark between 'PM' and '102" is where you drill a new hole (centered) about 3/8" in diameter. The wires from the Lazy Daze go through that hole from behind, and the wires go in the same place as the old fixture. A white wire can be soldered on to that tab with the hole in it. It should be folded up. The screw doesn't go through the metal, but does go through the plastic into the LD sheet metal. Seal that screw and the threads as you screw it in. If you haven't soldered before, now isn't the time. Get a white wire with a small ring terminal and attach it to that folded up strap with a machine screw, lock washer between the contacts. About a #8 screw, washer and nut. Not much current needed with that small light. Black connects to the LD black. White connects to the LD white.
Get outside help if this is beyond your skill set. Lazy Daze did a good job. Petersen screwed up the lights. I would never trust anything they ever made, or anything they make now. Not ever--pure junk! RonB
Hi Ron.
Sorry for my late response to your informative comment. I plan on tackling the clearance light during warmer weather.
Another subject. I believe the bottom section of my Lazy Daze is fiberglass. If I'm correct, does this include around the rear wheel wells?
Thanks!
Mark
Another subject. I believe the bottom section of my Lazy Daze is fiberglass. If I'm correct, does this include around the rear wheel wells?
The bottom section of the exterior walls of your LD are made of fiberglass, the wheel wells are made of plywood.
The hinged wheel well covers are made of molded ABS plastic.
Larry
Thanks Larry.
As much water as wheel wheels are subject to. Why would LD construct the wheel wells out of plywood?
The inside of the wheel wells have an asphalt emulsion coating and the top has a galvanized, sheet metal covering.
Why plywood wood? You have to find Steve and ask him.
Larry
.
Marine grade plywood (no idea if that's what LD used) can last for a very long time in wet conditions.
I think 20 years is a good long run for a vehicle of any sort. Some will last longer with proper maintenance, but any time you build something you have to balance cost and manufacturing logistics against longevity. My rig is living on borrowed time but I hope to get at least 10 more years out of it.
Rich