I'm going to replace the original water pump. The last time I replaced one (different rig) I got an Aqua Jet 55 instead of the Sure Flow because the Sure Flow pumps were failing frequently back then. Anyhow, for those that have replaced your pump within the last several years, what did you buy and are you happy with it? Thanksl
jor
Jor-
The ShurFlo 4008 is a popular substitute for original equipment. I made that swap on my Class A. The LD didn't need a new pump for the years I owned it.
Mark H.
Why are you replacing your pump? Which Shur-Flo model is it? There was only one model that was problematic.
Steve
Why are you replacing your pump? Which Shur-Flo model is it?
Here's a photo of the pump. It's the original. It has an annoying lag. It works fine when the faucets are full on but anything less causes it to start/stop. Anyhow, I'd probably replace it anyhow because of its age . I always replace the water pump when I get a new rig. I'm familiar with "if it ain't broke" but not a believer! :D
Pretty tight in there. I think I'll pop out that converter to get at it. Still thinking about whether to add an accumulator.
jor
“works fine when the faucets are full on but anything less causes it to start/stop”
Adjusting the Shurflo set screws may address your flow problem. There are quite a few YouTube videos on this. Here’s one that I used. Take a screen shot of the set screw specification when it displays on the video, for later reference.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=DdH2Pf-UllA
If you do find that you need to replace the pump, buy a new one. They’re about $70 on Amazon and rebuilding May cost you nearly that much unless you are certain which part is worn out (been there, done that)!
Amazon.com: SHURFLO 4008-101-A65 New 3.0 GPM RV Water Pump Revolution, 12V :... (https://www.amazon.com/SHURflo-115v-Water-Pump-4008-171-A65/dp/B010TKMCEM/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=1OZKOEY6G3KV&keywords=shurflo+4008-101-a65&qid=1666193158&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIzLjI5IiwicXNhIjoiMi40NCIsInFzcCI6IjIuMjEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=shurflo+4008%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-4)
Here's a photo of the pump. It's the original. It has an annoying lag. It works fine when the faucets are full on but anything less causes it to start/stop. Anyhow, I'd probably replace it anyhow because of its age . I always replace the water pump when I get a new rig. I'm familiar with "if it ain't broke" but not a believer! :D
jor
This IS the model that has caused problems, so pro-actively replacing it would be a good idea. The Shur-Flo 4008 series has been much more reliable, but may require adjustments to reduce cycling.
Steve
I'm going to replace the original water pump. The last time I replaced one (different rig) I got an Aqua Jet 55 instead of the Sure Flow because the Sure Flow pumps were failing frequently back then. Anyhow, for those that have replaced your pump within the last several years, what did you buy and are you happy with it? Thanksl
jor
The Shurflo Revolution 4008 has been the standard pump for many years and has proven to be mostly dependable (which means we carry a spare, they usually go out on a Saturday night).
The water pump is a wear item and will eventually fail, staying with the same pump makes future replacement easier by not having to change any of the plumbing or electrical connections.
Larry
Thinking about installing an accumulator? I did this a few years ago, after my original pump came apart (since then, I learned that periodically checking tightness on the pump head screws is important). There is an article about accumulator tanks in the Lazy Daze Companion (http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/search/label/Accumulator%20Tank). The pump now starts and stops much less frequently when drawing a low flow through a faucet. Here are some considerations:
+ If the lifetime of the pump is determined by the number of starts and stops (if start and stop cycles cause wear on the internal pump components), then this might extend its lifetime. If the pump lifetime is determined by calendar time (if materials steadily deteriorate with age, like the rubber in tires), then it won’t.
+ Installation in a Midbath is straightforward. It is a good opportunity to install a shutoff valve between the fresh water tank and the pump, to make future work easier by not having to drain the fresh water tank first, or in case of a leak somewhere.
- I have read a few posted comments to the effect that pump vendors don’t recommend accumulators. I haven’t found any such recommendations myself, so I don’t see any issue here.
- You want to check and adjust the air pressure in the accumulator tank occasionally. Annually? Or only If the pump starts cycling often again? The adjustment is simply adding air to set the pressure just like you do with a tire. The fitting IS actually a shrader valve, just like a tire.
Thanks for the input, guys. I'm just going to go with that Shurflo. As recommended I'll carry the other as a spare.
This IS the model that has caused problems
Guess I'm lucky thus baby is still alive.
staying with the same pump makes future replacement easier by not having to change any of the plumbing or electrical connections.
Good idea, especially with such limited space.
Thinking about installing an accumulator?
I've had them before. On the rig before last, I had a real big one which worked very well. On our last one, I put one of those small ones in (Home Depot). It was only a moderate improvement.
It is a good opportunity to install a shutoff valve between the fresh water tank and the pump,
Another great idea! Will do.
Anyhow, Shurflo it is and no accumulator. KISS! :D
jor
Thinking about installing an accumulator? .
Shurflow 4008 installation manual states "No need for an accumulator with by- pass pumps".
https://www.pentair.com/content/dam/extranet/web/nam/shurflo/manuals/911-1008-4008-rv-by-pass-pump-iom.pdf
I have tried an accumulator with the 4008 and it caused problems with the pump's pressure regulator. Without the accumulator, the pump ran fine.
Larry
We added an accumulator when we changed our pump about three years ago. We found that it did not improve the function of the pump or its cycle. When we change this pump again I will remove the Accumulator so we have one less leak point.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
+ Installation in a Midbath is straightforward. It is a good opportunity to install a shutoff valve between the fresh water tank and the pump, to make future work easier by not having to drain the fresh water tank first, or in case of a leak somewhere.
Dang, yet another worthy project for my list! I really need to quit reading this forum! ;)
Shurflo it is and no accumulator
Got the new water pump in. Not too bad with the converter pulled out. The OEM unit had some kind of snap-in connector on the input side but I had the appropriate part from some other water pump project. Also, this new one is a little smaller so I moved it back a bit. And now I've got a spare!
jor
I did the changeout through the forward-facing veneer access panel in my midbath. No need to remove the converter.
I did the changeout through the forward-facing veneer access panel in my mid bath. No need to remove the converter.
It can be done without removing the converter but it is a lot simpler when it is removed, only a few screws hold it in.
Larry
Now I need to do the same thing in my mid bath— the old 5.7 Shur Flo is now leaking, dripping water. Already have a 4008 to swap out. But wondering about sliding the converter out of the way. Is it just 4 screws? I’m looking at it and not quite sure which need to be removed to slide it out. Thanks for any more detailed info !! Will attempt it in the morning ::)
Daryl.
I have not needed to move the converter in my 2013 MB to change the pump.
Thanks Keith, I’ll give that a try first! . Did you need to first unscrew the pump from the floor so you could get to the hoses and wires easier?
Daryl
I replaced water pump recently in my 2001 mid bath. I used two small C clamps (about 2 inches each) to clamp the hoses connected to the pump before removing the hoses and avoided spilling water. The pump can be unscrewed from the floor and removed through the access panel below the sink that is held in place with Velcro fasteners. The converter does not have to be removed.
No. I recall one minor challenge was getting the back mounting screw started into its hole; getting fingers on it was awkward. I would start that one first.
I added shutoff valves on both sides of the pump to make changing the pump, or cleaning the filter, easier. I followed the advice here and now carry a spare.
Is it just 4 screws?
That's it. Out it comes. I pulled mine when I installed a new water pump. You have to give it a pretty good tug as those Romex wires are pretty stiff.
I mounted the new pump a little differently to provide easier access.
jor
I mounted the new pump a little differently to provide easier access.
Could you elaborate on how you installed the water pump and would you have a picture? TIA
I moved my mid-bath's water pump to inside the bathroom vanity. I had to winterize each year, and moving the pump made that easier. Plus, it meant less chance water would come near the power center.
Pictures are at this link (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=261); a sample is below.
Mark H.
(https://www.lazydazeowners.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=1837)
Could you elaborate on how you installed the water pump and would you have a picture?
Ed, I just reoriented it a bit and pulled it closer to the front for ease of access. Nothing like Mark's dramatic move. Really nice job, Mark.
jor
I’ve always liked how Mark relocated his water pump. The installation looks to be first class. However, Margee has not wanted to give up the cabinet space in the bathroom. And that my friends is that. 😂
Yeah, keep it simple. Remove the panel under the sink and remove and replace the pump. As long as you are capable of laying on the floor which you would have to do either way. I replaced mine a few years ago, it had a date on it of 1999. There was nothing note worthy about the job.
I would avoid pulling out the converter, seems like more trouble than it is worth.
On a side note, a year before the pump went I replaced the original converter.
Removing the converter isn’t difficult, the four screws on the front cover need removing, they may have Torx heads, if so, another new tool.
Amazon.com : torx driver folding (https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=torx+driver+folding)
Once the front hinged cover is off, remove the four screws around the converter’s perimeter that are securing the converter in the cabinet’s frame. Next, pull the converter out gently, it should come out 2-4” depending on how generous the electrician was feeling that day.
Switching from a 5.7 Shur Flo to a 4008 requires re-orientating the pump, probably needing new hoses and switching mounting positions, they are very differently shaped pumps. The 4008 pump's mounting screws should require new holes.
It’s a bit of a project. Once done, future replacements are much simpler.
The 5.7 Shur Flo was a poorly built pump with a high failure rate, the Mothership gave up on them after a few years and went to the more dependable 4008.
Larry
The converter is pretty easy to remove, as described by others, and allows much better access to the water pump.
thanks Larry! got the converter out easy, the 4 screws.
yes, the replace was a bit of a project! 4008 is smaller than the old 5.7.
I'd already scheduled a mobile tech to come out to replace the circuit board in the AC yesterday, and "luckily" the water pump started leaking the night before so he helped with that while he was here, so at least it wasn't a separate house call charge.
That circuit board seemed to do the trick, no more clicking with AC running. But will be putting it to the test later in the summer I'm sure!
Daryl