1990 Chevy G30 5.7l TBI
Batt reading when engine is running = 14.63
Ignition off = 12.74
Ignition on = 12.24
Connectors to Starter Motor are good and starter motor known to be good as of 2 1/2 weeks ago. Alternater tests good as of 2 1/2 weeks ago. Nothing happens when attempting to start. Makes feeble initial attempt for maybe a second and then nothing.
(I hope this is enough info as I am known to not give enough info and this not deliberately).
Suspect a weak starting battery. A half volt drop, with just the ignition on, seems to be excessive.
If you have long enough jumper cables, attemp to jump start it from the coach battery or anther vehicle.
Larry
Suspect a weak starting battery. A half volt drop, with just the ignition on, seems to be excessive.
If you have long enough jumper cables, attemp to jump start it from the coach battery or anther vehicle.
Larry
Have been using my NOCO GB70 to start. Time for a new batt Larry?
Check voltage directly on the battery terminals WHILE starter engaged. Do same test with probes on battery connectors. if first reading is 11.5V or above, and second reading much lower, then clean terminals and connectors.
Steve
Mindispower, weren't you asking for battery recommendations a couple days ago?
It is my understanding that voltage alone does not indicate a battery's condition. Perhaps a visit to an autoparts store that offers free battery testing will answer your questions?
Steve K
"Perhaps a visit to an autoparts store that offers free battery testing will answer your questions?"
Steve
Tell me how that is to be done if she can't get the engine started? ::)
Problem resolved via new battery. I also installed a kill switch. Thanks everyone.
"I also installed a kill switch."
Would you care to share an explanation of your work, what, where, how??? :(
"Perhaps a visit to an autoparts store that offers free battery testing will answer your questions?"
Steve
Tell me how that is to be done if she can't get the engine started? ::)
Well Steve, she/he stated they had been using a battery jump starter to get it running and posted running engine voltage. From my experience, you drive it afterward.
Steve K
"I also installed a kill switch."
Would you care to share an explanation of your work, what, where, how??? :(
I have a pic but don't know how to add it to this response.
I have a pic but don't know how to add it to this response.
Try this: How to Post Photos (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=35583.0)
Mindispower, I had a Chevy van with the same engine. Here’s my experience:
Engine cranks and starts - Oh happy day!
Engine very slowly cranks but still starts - Still happy but time to check strength of battery and make sure all connections are good.
Only hear clicking noise from starter solenoid - battery so low it can only engage solenoid but not enough reserve to turn the starter.
No noise from starter or starter solenoid but battery shows good voltage level - smack the starter with a hammer to free it up.
Got a new batt and installed the switch.
One other experience, on one occasion the van was pretty lifeless but battery voltage was good. I brought the van back to life by unplugging the main fuse box from the firewall and plugging it back in. It worked fine after that. The unplugging and plugging back in created enough contact cleaning to clear up an intermittent contact issue.
"No noise from starter or starter solenoid but battery shows good voltage level - smack the starter with a hammer to free it up."
Right out of the days when I was learning to drive in a '31 Model 'A' Ford Roadster! The rotor on the starter motor has a tendency to form varnish on the surfaces. By whacking it you move that rotor just enough to make electrical contact and away she goes!
Thanks for the reminder!
"...and installed the switch."
Not too subtle but VERY practical! :o ;)
"...and installed the switch."
Not too subtle but VERY practical! :o ;)
Nothing is perfect right?
No trouble with over-engineering.
If anything goes wrong with it, not too many parts to troubleshoot. :)