I had an interesting experience that I thought I would share with the group. Thankfully it had a good ending.
The Dometic DM2682 refrigerator in my 2021 27MB was working fine yesterday morning when I started my 200+ mile drive. The temperature outside was over 100 and when I got to my destination, I plugged in and went to check that the refrigerator was running on AC. To my surprise the refrigerator panel was dark and no amount of button pushing was going to change that. I checked the fuses and breakers in the Parallax power supply box, but nothing was tripped or blown. I then consulted the LD manual but nothing helpful was there either. So... I logged into the LDOF and started a search. I saw that someone had a similar problem about a year ago and there was mention of a fuse on the refrigerator circuit board that was accessible from the outside. After powering everything off and with flashlight and screwdriver in hand, I went to look for the hidden fuse. It wasn't difficult to pop off the circuit board cover and inspect the fuse but alas... no joy. Unfortunately the OP with the similar problem never reported back if or what actually fixed their problem :(
So now it's the next morning and I call Todd at the Mothership. I'm telling him I think it's the circuit board and could he send me one. Todd then says... hold on, lets try the reset first. WHAT??? There's a reset on the refrigerator? He says yes, just open the outside compartment and on the right side there's a sheet metal cover that needs to be removed. Then look for the thermofuse that has 2 red wires going to it. Use a pen or screwdriver tip and push the small black button between the 2 white connectors that the red wires are going to.
Son of a gun... the refrigerators is working perfectly again ;D
Here are a couple of pictures I took to better explain things. I'm guessing the long hot drive was what tripped the thermofuse. But thankfully it isn't very difficult to reset.
BTW - looking at picture #1 you'll see the 3 philips-head screws that need to be removed in order to get to the thermofuse reset button.
- John
"Then look for the thermofuse that's has 2 red wires going to it."
What???
This must be a newer innovation, I surely do not remember anything of that sort on my 2004. Still, it's a good bit of info for those who need it! ;)
This is apparently the 'fix' for the over-heating problem of years gone by which prompted a recall.
John, first of all congratulations on your 2021 LD! I didn’t realize you had already taken delivery.
Thanks for the tip about the reset button. I did not know about it either even though I’ve taken that cover off before to look at the burner. Guess I never noticed it but my model 2662 has it also. Good to know in case we end up having the same problem.
John, That reset switch is VERY good to know about. Thanks for the photos. That helps for identifying the location.
Thank you.
Mike C.
. . . and for the rest of us who have the older models, if the frig stops and its not the dinosaur board, we may have to do the frig flip to get it back for a little longer. This is best done outside of the LD.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
The cover over the switch is new, the reset switch is old.
John,
Thank you for your post. Just found it on our ‘15 RB. Good stuff flows from LDOF.
Kent
Hi John R; You'd think that Dometic could at least put a label there that identifies a resettable thermal switch under that panel. Was there a mention in the operators manual? Seems like anymore you need a 'cheat list' like on a quarterbacks wrist to tell you about hidden reset switches and such, both in LD wiring, and appliance wiring. RonB
You'd think that Dometic could at least put a label there that identifies a rest switch under that panel.
Great suggestion, Ron!
Just grabbed my label maker and printed one out for the next time I visit our rig!
George & Jo Ann
2017 MB
This must be a newer innovation, I surely do not remember anything of that sort on my 2004. Still, it's a good bit of info for those who need it! ;)
This is apparently the 'fix' for the over-heating problem of years gone by which prompted a recall.
AFAIK, the thermal fuse has been resettable for a very long time. Good chance your refrigerator has one too.
I have only seen one tripped once, at an LD Caravan GTG, I remembered reading a Dometic repair manual that mentioned it and found it tripped, not sure why it happened. The owner reported that this problem did not reappear.
The recall, done about 15 years ago, added a sheet metal shield that covered the burner assembly. It was Dometic's CYA, designed to contain the flames from boiler rust out, where the flammable chemicals are released, supposedly prevent your RV from burning up. The shield continues as standard today.
Our original RM3662 rusted through on the first day of a long trip, we found a bright yellow fluid was dripping down the side of the LD and the inside of the added shield darkened by the flames. Guess the fix worked, our LD didn't catch fire.
The DM2662 replacement has the same thermal fuse and shield.
The boiler's thermal fuse prevents overheating the boiler, if you don't trust the thermal fuse, there is a commercial device, the ARP, that monitors the boiler temperature and shuts the burner off if the temperature exceeds a certain temperature.
Want to Solve your Dometic & Norcold Cooling and Safety Issues? (https://www.arprv.com)
I have zero experience with it and mention it as an FYI.
Larry
Was there a mention in the operators manual?
Not that I could find.
- John
Notice the black mark on the label and schematic affixed to the sheet metal cover? Ken and Greg's pics don't have these black marks. Could this be an indication of how hot things got? I did have the refrigerator temperature set to the coldest setting and it was 109 degrees outside while driving and the refrigerator was on propane. I'll have to keep an eye on it and see if the label gets any darker. It could be a forewarning.
- John
The LDOF is awesome! When I finally get the chance to own a new build ( hopefully the LD mothership does not get sold before my turn to order) I will definitely have a lot of knowledge, because of this group.
The boiler's thermal fuse prevents overheating the boiler, if you don't trust the thermal fuse, there is a commercial device, the ARP, that monitors the boiler temperature and shuts the burner off if the temperature exceeds a certain temperature.
Want to Solve your Dometic & Norcold Cooling and Safety Issues? (https://www.arprv.com)
I have zero experience with it and mention it as an FYI.
If the website is accurately stating the NFPA statistics, seems like this product might be a good thing to have. Thoughts?
Hi Greg; Looks like a waste of money to me. The switch you have, should take care of any problems. John R. was running hot, on a hot day. Good to know it worked and that he found it, and could reset it easily.
I never got that recall done on my Dometic. As I understand it, the issue was installation of an electric heating element by Dometic that was rated for a certain wattage at 110VAC, when it should have been specified at 125VAC. In occasions where line voltage was high, the on/off cycling would stress and fatigue the weld joint, which after time would crack and expel hydrogen gas just next to the burner flame. The baffle would stop the spread of the fire.
I think most RV fires aren't caused by refrigerator fires. Cooking, animal nests, obstruction of ventilation, poor wiring (think animals again), blown tires and auto accidents all contribute to fire hazards. All of that is lumped together in fire loss statistics. RonB
. . . and for the rest of us who have the older models, if the frig stops and its not the dinosaur board, we may have to do the frig flip to get it back for a little longer. This is best done outside of the LD.
Flipping and rolling a Dometic that has stopped work due to an internal blockage can work.
Our 1983 LD's Dometic refrigerator died on Orcas Island, two weeks after we bought it. The burner was operational, producing adequate heat. I had heard that rolling an absorption refrigerator can sometimes clear a blockage.
Since the nearest RV shop was many hours and a ferry ride away, we gave it a shot.
Not sure how my wife and I removed and passed it through the window, guess I was stronger then, once outside, we rolled it several times, leaving it upside down for almost an hour before hoisting back up and reinstalling it.
It starting cooling again and worked fine for eight years, finally dying two months before our new LD was delivered.
Glad this isn't a part of the annual maintenance but it might improve the performance of an older refrigerator that isn't cooling as well as when new.
I'm not sure why we took the refrigerator outside, it would be simpler to leave it inside to roll it. The 1983 LD was a narrow body, there might not have been enough floor space.
Larry
Ron, I was ready to pooh pooh the device until I noticed this article endorsing it written by Mark Nemeth, whom I've always highly regarded:
Protect Your Fridge – RV Gadget Box (https://gadgetbox.escapees.com/maintenance/protect-your-fridge/#comments)
Mark is an Escapees technical contributor (and former Tehachapian). You may recognize his name as the author of the 12 Volt Side of Life, part 1 and 2:
The 12volt Side of Life (Part 1) (http://marxrv.com/12volt/12volt.htm)
The 12volt Side of Life Part 2 (http://marxrv.com/12volt/12volta.htm)
Mark's Bio (http://marxrv.com/mark_bio.htm)
Wondering if anyone here has actually installed the device?
I have installed the ARP, with the accompanying fan control. I haven’t quantified the benefit of the fans on cooling performance, but I am reassured about safety if operating out of level.
If the website is accurately stating the NFPA statistics, seems like this product might be a good thing to have. Thoughts?
Proving an ARP is a valuable device is very difficult to determine, not that many RVs burn and the ones that do are usually not subject to autopsies, to determine the precise cause.
Dometic already includes a resettable thermal fuse, that has a similar function in protecting the boiler from overheating..
One of the biggest ' benefits' is it will shut off if the boiler overheats due to being not level. If you can't get your rig adequately leveled when parked, the refrigerator should not be on at all.
There isn't any easy way to prove that damage will not occur if run when not level, while using an ARP.
There are a lot of claims and testimonies but no actual proof of its benefits.
While proof of its effectiveness is lacking, I can see no harm in using an ARP.
BTW, Lazy Bones and Joan Taylor refrigerators are going on twenty years old and neither have an ARP, they and many others have very old refrigerators that are still functioning without this 'needed' device.
Larry
"Lazy Bones and Joan Taylor refrigerators are going on twenty years old..."
Not so Larry!
About five years ago, give or take, my fridge did the green stuff puke and was replaced by Vince and one helper at the Mother Ship. That's when I learned how they remove and replace them through the large dinette window.
So the original did last nearly fifteen years, something you might expect from a home appliance and 99% of that time it ran 24/7. ;)
I hope my refrigerator didn’t hear you and decide to go south, Larry!
Over the years, it has had an ignitor, thermocouple, and board (now a Dinosaur) replaced, but that’s pretty much it.
Refrigerator demise is unpredictable; 18 years is pushing it, but I’m hopeful that it will hang in there a while longer!
Our refrigerator in our MB~98 is original so it is about 23 years old, our previous Dometic in our '84 itaska was 15 years old when it leaked fortunately it was off. I replaced it in 1997 so it is one year older then then the one in our 98~MB and it worked well last year when we sold it. I think running the refrigerator level is key, we carry blue ice packs in our freezer to put in the frig for when we are un-level (rarely) or when we have to turn it off on ferry's etc. We may be facing a new Frig in our future since we now must run ours on setting # 4 this past summer, a few years ago it use to run on setting #2. We are also considering a compressor style but then we will need Lithium Batteries and more solar panels?
Our interest in ARP is in the interior ceiling mounted fans for distributing air in the refrigerator that they sell as an add on?
We have seen other posting here and other places for interior fans that mount in front of the fins or near them. I wonder if those ceiling fans work well?
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
ARP - #5b INTERNAL DEFROST and CIRCULATION BLOWER FAN
Purchase Fridge Defend by ARP | Dometic | Norcold | RV Safety | RV Reliability (http://www.arprv.com/purchase.php#number-five-b)
Hi Liam; The outside near the ceiling vent and by the outside low side access door fans are not the inside fan inside the refrigerator. All three fans can be added, and others sell them for just those functions. I've added the two outside ones, and a switch to turn them on and off manually. My 1999 fridge is still running. Much better after I cleaned the orifice. Still does -1 F when level. No sodium chromate or ammonia (hydrogen gas) yet. RonB
"Lazy Bones and Joan Taylor refrigerators are going on twenty years old..."
Not so Larry!
About five years ago, give or take, my fridge did the green stuff puke and was replaced by Vince and one helper at the Mother Ship. That's when I learned how they remove and replace them through the large dinette window.
So the original did last nearly fifteen years, something you might expect from a home appliance, and 99% of that time it ran 24/7. ;) [/quote]
Only fifteen years? My mistake. The point is most refrigerators run for many years without additional devices.
Larry
I have added the exterior fans controlled by a manual switch also, which I did with our old itaska fridge. ARP sells a fan for inside the frig. We use to have the old battery operated blue plastic box fan (Fanmate?) years ago but it took up space or fell over often. I think Larry added a muffin fan connected to the frig light? How did that work out in the long run? ARP has two flat fans for the ceiling mounting to move air and operate when the frig is in it's cooling cycle?
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
I talked to Todd yesterday on a different matter, but I wanted to thank him again for pointing me to resetting the thermofuse on the refrigerator. I then asked if resetting the thermofuse would be added to the Lazy Daze owners manual for new rigs. He said that it’s a very rare occurrence to trip one and that he couldn’t remember having to reset one in the 15 years he’s been there. With a little prodding from me, he said maybe he would have it added to the owners manual. Things sure move at a glacial pace at the mothership ;)
- John
John,
Maybe it’s just me, but I don’t expect an upgraded Owners Manual any time soon. Todd mentioned that we would be receiving a newer edition soon. That was back in 2015 when we got our LD Manual Edition #37. Has a newer edition arrived?
Time does have a way of standing still for a little longer at the Mothership. That’s fine with me.
Kent
John,
Maybe it’s just me, but I don’t expect an upgraded Owners Manual any time soon. Todd mentioned that we would be receiving a newer edition soon. That was back in 2015 when we got our LD Manual Edition #37. Has a newer edition arrived?
Time does have a way of standing still for a little longer at the Mothership. That’s fine with me.
Kent
<smile> I just added a note to my paper manual and bookmarked this thread.
glen
ps Larry -- really rolling you refrigerator. If I asked my wife that she would checked my temperature and had me hospitalized.
We use to have the old battery operated blue plastic box fan (Fanmate?) years ago but it took up space or fell over often. I think Larry added a muffin fan connected to the frig light? How did that work out in the long run?
I use high-quality 60mm computer fans to keep the air moving in the refrigerator, preventing stagnation.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/5744/24065749466_a65101749d_4k.jpg)
The fan is wired directly to the control board on a terminal that is 'hot' when the refrigerator is running, this requires running new wires through the passage that the interior thermal probe uses.
Fans can be wired across the interior light' switch, providing lower voltage and lower fan speed. In the later models Dometics, accessing the fan switch is more difficult.
The fan's locations are not critical as long as it isn't blocked and it enhances the normal circular flow. Cool air drops from the fins and warm air rises at the front of the refrigerator's interior.
Larry
Larry, do you think it would work with flat fans mounted to the ceiling of the frig and out of the way as ARP sells? These fans are available through several other vendors and on Amazon?
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
(https://www.lazydazeowners.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4434)
Larry, do you think it would work with flat fans mounted to the ceiling of the frig and out of the way as ARP sells? These fans are available through several other vendors and on Amazon?
I see no reason why not, give it a try.
The ceiling mounting doesn't use any valuable shelf space.
Your earlier question about a solar-powered compressor refrigerator, I would want 600-watts or more of solar, along with a bigger battery, a pair of 100-amp lithiums perhaps.
One potential issue is having to always be camped in the sun, to keep the battery charged. Not the best option when it's very hot out or all the campsites are shaded.
Plan on having to use the generator at times for battery charging. A much larger converter would reduce generator run time.
Sounds expensive.
Larry
Well if we get to Setting #5 the top cooling setting and the refrigerator does not cool sufficiently, I will try pulling the frig and flipping it (may be inside our98~MB if there is space). I would re-insulate the space before putting it back in. That may buy us time to make a decision about a compressor frig and 200+ lithium and more solar panels and more charge controller? Otherwise just put a new absorption frig back in. We hope we have a few more years left?
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
they remove and replace them through the large dinette window.
Which window(s) would be used on an RK? Do the shades, valance, or both need to be removed first?
hmmmm, I was in a high temp and high humidity situation for several days and the Back side of the Frig was in the direct sun light. Frig went out and I looked for that switch by removing cover etc etc.....could not find it.
I also have a nearly new frig.
After leaving our campsite a day early due to the situation, as soon as we started up the vehicle and started down the road, frig kicked on....I have no ideas here....
Spartan,
The black reset button is really small, maybe 1/8 inch in diameter. You can see it in the picture in my original #1 post. It’s between the 2 white connectors that are attached to the 2 red wires. You’ll need something like a pen or thin screwdriver to push in the button. You won’t be able to get your finger between the 2 white connectors in order to push the reset button.
- John
Which window(s) would be used on an RK? Do the shades, valance, or both need to be removed first?
Any window that slides open, and the opening is 24” or wider, should work.
Protect the window track by covering with a heavy blanket or tarp. The valances do not need to be removed. It’s a two person job.
Larry
Also had refrigerator problem on DM 2682 that was purchased new in Jan 2021. Had just started a vacation and while in transit to northern CA, happened to stop after driving just an hour. When I opened the door of the freezer, I noticed that none of the lights on the control panel we’re working. This was Saturday morning, and no service facilities were open to deal with this problem. Fortunately, I got hold of a Dometic tech representative via phone, who walked me through the troubleshooting process. First, I checked the reset button mentioned in this thread . There was no change and the control panel behind the freezer door remained dark. I then checked the reset button with a multimeter and it was OK. Second, there is a thermofuse that is hidden inside of a small black sleeve that situated on one of the red wires connected to the button operated reset fuse. This black sleeve is held in place by a bendable metal clip that puts the thermofuse in back of the flame in the burner housing when the fridge is using propane. You have to remove the metal shield that also hides the reset button to find the black sleeve. I pulled off the red wire where containing the black sleeve where it was attached to the reset button and also the other end of the same red wire where it was connected to the control panel on the back of the fridge. Each end has push on fittings for easy removal and reconnection. Once the red wire was in my hands I slid the black sleeve far enough to find a thin wire thermofuse that was crimped on each end in series to the red wire. I checked the continuity of the red wire with a multimeter which showed that the thermofuse was defective. The Dometic rep gave me info to obtain a replacement thermofuse: NTE Electronics, part # NTE 8213. I got a replacement fuse right away and when I put in, everything worked. The fuse cost less than $6.00 but I would advise getting a spare in case you have a similar failure. The fuse is put in easily with a pair of pliers to crimp each end of the fuse to the red wire. The fuse is also available on Amazon.
Welcome Dale & your 2001 MB to the LDO Forum. Thank you for the valuable information in your post. When you have a spare minute, maybe you could introduce yourself and share some information about your Rig. Safe travels.