Hello LD Fam!
Can someone please direct me to the latest information on repairing the corners end caps? From the latest I have read you should use 3M 5200 Fast Cure to fill the gap and then pre drill the section and add stainless steel screws?
Questions:
1. Is 3M 5200 fast cure the best sealant to use for all areas? or just the end cap corners? Or is there something
better to use?
2. What length of SS screws should I use? How far should they be spaced if you have a 6 or 8 inch section and
should I add a screw past the raised area to prevent spreading?
3. How deep of a hole should I drill and what width?
4. Do I add the sealant and then immediately tighten the screw or let it cure then tighten it?
Thanks for the help!
Glenn
Hi GlennE; End caps resealed at the edge. Fast cure 3M 5200 is very hard to work with, messy and very permanent. I use Dynaflex 230. Still messy but water clean up. Nearly permanent acrylic based. Dap 18275 10.1 fl oz; dynaflex 230 white [PRICE is per TUBE]: Thread... (https://www.amazon.com/18275-10-1-dynaflex-white-PRICE/dp/B000AP4RQ8/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwi9-HBhACEiwAPzUhHBoKZrl6cAHNagcD3J7tUI3tspEUtzNYIxnV9MXn0lM3hqYMKfD4DxoCcoIQAvD_BwE&hvadid=176303719672&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9061201&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=807272325472203482&hvtargid=kwd-155377999236&hydadcr=4818_9473749&keywords=dynaflex+230+white&qid=1626912983&sr=8-2)
For screws #8 x 1" SS round head. spaced about 6-8" apart. Evenly spaced Drill a hole about 1/16" diameter drill bit about 1/2" deep. In the plastic, a hole big enough for the screw to go through without binding on the hole. You want the screw to pull the quarter round ABS corner piece to be pulled up tight to the wood underneath. The screws have to all be in and gently tight before the sealant starts to stiffen. About 5 minutes. RonB
Questions:
1. Is 3M 5200 fast cure the best sealant to use for all areas? or just the end cap corners? Or is there something
better to use?
2. What length of SS screws should I use? How far should they be spaced if you have a 6 or 8 inch section and
should I add a screw past the raised area to prevent spreading?
3. How deep of a hole should I drill and what width?
4. Do I add the sealant and then immediately tighten the screw or let it cure then tighten it?
3M 5200 fast Cure is my favorite adhesive sealant, based on 30 years of use, it's expensive and worth it.
It is used for most of my sealing needs with the exception of windows leaking between the glass and rubber molding, common in the multi-piece rear windows.Permatex® Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer – Permatex (https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/sealants/permatex-flowable-silicone-windshield-glass-sealer/)
I use #8 X 1" or 1-1/4 round head, stainless steel sheet metal screws. Screws are used where you need them to pull a warped cap into position.
If multiple screws are needed, I space them 4" apart, for neatness. The Factory uses screws on new coaches if a cap isn't cooperating.
Untitled | lw5315us | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/27714437855/in/album-72157668919689330/)
Predrill the holes, first using a very small drill, drill the guide holes about an inch deep, then drill the holes in the cap a little larger than the screw diameter, to prevent the plastic cap from cracking.
If a cap is lifting, I install a screw at the point where the caps appear to still be tight, before proceeding with cleaning the area for gluing. Use shims to lift and prop open the loose caps for access, remove as much of the adhesive as possible and then clean the gap and surrounding area with acetone or lacquer thinner. Use masking tape to cover everything that you do not want to get the sealant on, taping both the cap and siding, leaving a 1/8" gap. Use disposable gloves and apply a good bead along the gap, use a wetted finger to force the 5200 deep into the gap. Install the screws, trying not to overtighten, squeezing too much of the 5200 out.
Tighten the screws until the cap has the same gap as the intact portions of the cap. Now using a fresh glove, wet your finger and form a nice fillet in the gap, removing the excess sealant that has squeezed out
Once smoothed to your liking, immediately remove the masking tape before the surface of the 5200 shims over. Leave any small bits of 5200 that get left behind, you can clean them off in about 45 minutes with a rag wetted with lacquer thinner.
Window and seam sealing | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157671788034655/)
Disposable gloves are your friend. Wear old clothes, 5200 is near impossible to get out when fresh and impossible to remove when cured.
Larry
Thanks Ron and Larry!
This has been very helpful!!
Glenn
Yet another bookmark to add to my collection. Thanks for the great question and answers.
Can you post pics of the end cap repair so I know exactly what to watch for? Many thanks 🙏
Charles2002 30IB
Can you post pics of the end cap repair so I know exactly what to watch for? Many thanks 🙏
Charles2002 30IB
These aren't rear end caps, but it should be helpful:
Repairing a Separated End Cap (https://wxtoad.com/index.php/lazy-daze/repairing-a-separated-end-cap)
Rich
Thank you…exactly what I thought it was…I have some work to do 👍
These aren't rear end caps, but it should be helpful:
Repairing a Separated End Cap (https://wxtoad.com/index.php/lazy-daze/repairing-a-separated-end-cap)
Years ago when I first started working on LDs, end caps were a constant issue. The first few I fixed, the caps were wedged into position after applying the 5200, using 2X4s and whatever to hold the caps in place until cured. This is the method shown on Ted's website.
I soon ran into caps that could not be clamped this way, so I started using stainless steel sheet metal screws to hold the caps in position. I started doing this after noticing that the Mothership did the same thing on new rigs where the caps wouldn't lay flat.
Once this method was tried, it proved to be a superior method.
Searching the archives, inserting my user name and "end caps" will provide dozens of previous postings on the subject.
Larry