Any recommendations on best place to buy a replacement drain plug? And do you use any plumbers tape for the threads? When I removed mine there was no tape on it (from factory).
Thanks,
Bill
"...replacement drain plug..."
If the old one was nylon there's no need for tape. Why do you need to replace the one you have?
A metal drain plug will set you up for electrolysis (corrosion) between two dissimilar metals. :(
Amazon.com: XtremeAmazing 1/2 Inch Water Heater Drain Plug for RV Camper and... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087C1YPB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
12 for $7.15, enough to last the rest of your RV life
Or, you can buy the official Atwood brand 2 for $11.08 Amazon.com: Atwood (91857 1/2" Drain Plug Kit, (Pack of 2): Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-91857-Drain-Plug-Pack/dp/B0007XVWW0/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=atwood+water+heater+drain+plug&qid=1624815983&sr=8-4)
"...replacement drain plug..."
If the old one was nylon there's no need for tape. Why do you need to replace the one you have?
A metal drain plug will set you up for electrolysis (corrosion) between two dissimilar metals. :(
That’s what I assumed (tape) ….as to why….I didn’t have the proper socket (I do now) so used a combination of channel pliers and regular pliers which slightly “chewed” the plug. So I thought I’d replace it so I had a beautiful fit for my new 15/16” socket
I would always use some tape when doing a removal and replacement. It's inexpensive insurance against a leak at an inconvenient time or place in the future.
When I got my coach in 2014, I removed what I recall being a metal plug. I replaced it with a brass nipple, ball valve and barb fitting on the outlet to simplify winterizing, replacing air cushion, etc. I used plenty of blue tape on all. No evidence of any corrosion.
The plug is a standard size, so any good hardware, or big box home improvement store will have what you need.
As always, YMMV!
Bill
On our ‘15 RB I added pipe tape to the OEM nylon drain plug. It’s been a while so I can’t recall why I did that. Made sense at the time I suppose.
The Pressure Relief Valve (PRV)is brass and from the looks of things has tape as an OEM installation.
One thing to remember when draining and filling the water heater tank is don’t forget to “burp” the tank by opening the PRV while refilling it via the on board water supply. This helps to prevent over filling the tank. Once the water escapes the PRV during this step turn off the water pump and close the valve.
I think that’s the correct procedure.
Kent
Many years ago I collected (from my toolbox) a 1/2" drive 15/16" socket, 5" extension, and a thumb ratchet drive to carry in my fresh water parts container used exclusively for removing the drain plug (with tape to prevent leakage when placing it semi-tight to protect the nylon threads). 3/8" drive would work well, but 1/2" is what I had on hand at the time. This is easy to use and doesn't harm the plug.
while talking about this topic, how come owe comes with a nylon plug instead of those metal bar plugs that help with something like metal corrosion (idk what it really is)?
Hi MajorTom; Those bar/plugs are sacrificial anodes. Home hot water tanks are steel, with a glass coating against the water. There are always small surface area cracks, or edges of tapped holes that are missing the glass. The anode rod (usually magnesium) corrodes instead of the tank. If you replace the anode rod, don't use teflon tape. You want an electrical connection, or it won't sacrifice itself to protect the tank. Electrolysis, or galvanic corrosion, is dependent on the electromotive ranking of the dissimilar metals.
In motorhomes, the water tanks are aluminum. No corrosion with brass. Plastic plugs won't damage the threads in the tank, if it (the plug) gets cross threaded. RonB
thanks RONB, glad we don't have another thing to worry about in ours!
The tank in our 2021coach now has a nylon insert in the aluminum tank with female threads to accept the nylon plug. No more nylon threads to metal tank threads. A better design.