Up until now I have had our oil changes all done at one of two shops....but they are booked out for the next 6 weeks....so it looks like I'll be doing the oil changes (both generator and engine) myself. I know I can reach the generator drain plug easily but for the engine drain and filter do I need to raise the front end or can I reach by crawling underneath? We have a 2013 with the Ford E-450 6.8L V-10. Also do you need to replace the drain bolt washers on both?
Thanks,
Bill
So Bill, how often do you change the oil in the generator? I waited until I had 100 hours on my genset to change the oil. Just sitting there, the oil doesn't change (age) much. I don't recall there being a washer on the generator, but I have the Emerald II, so it could be different. If you don't fit under the engine, ramps can make it easier to reach the drain plug. I just reuse the crushable gasket a few times, before I replace it. Haven't had any leaks yet, Certainly haven't had any drain plugs fall out on their own. RonB
I change the engine oil and filter without raising the front end; I push all the stuff needed under the rig from the front, then wiggle under the passenger side running board to reach the drain. It’s not ideal, but it’s doable. 😉
Bill,
I service the generator myself. After changing the oil prior to my Yellowstone trip in 2020, I noticed a small drip below the drain plug while at campground in route.
I tightened the plug only slightly. Even without running the genny, the drip increased. When I returned home from the trip, I noticed the drip had created a pool of oil on my driveway. Checking the Onan manual, I did not see any mention of a crush gasket or anything that resembled a washer.
I went on Amazon and found a high temperature non-drying sealant. I cleaned the plug, used the sealant on the plug and tightened to manufacture specs. I refilled the oil and it has been leak free ever since.
Strange. I had serviced the generator oil in the past and it never dripped a drop. 🧐
Kent
There's room. You can drive up on some leveling blocks for a little more clearance.
Rich
Kent, I think you’re right about the lack of a crush washer for the generator. The model KY manual does state to tighten the drain plug to 21 ft. lbs., though.
If the drain plug leaks and a crsuh washer isn't used or a new new available, i would fix the leak by using Teflon tape, applying two or three wraps to the drain plug, not letting any of the tape protrude past the threads where it can get into the crankcase.
An autotmotive teflon thread sealant could also be used.
Permatex® Thread Sealant with PTFE – Permatex (https://www.permatex.com/products/thread-compounds/thread-sealants/permatex-thread-sealant-with-ptfe/)
Before using either product, clean the drain plug, removing any oil.
Larry
For people with the old Emerald generator; I had such a hard time operating the oil drain valve (it came with) that I put in one of these Amazon.com: EZ Oil Drain Valve EZ-8 Oil Drain Valve, 1 Pack: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/EZ-Oil-Drain-Valve-8/dp/B00HTV2G78/ref=asc_df_B00HTV2G78/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=316634728555&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=94799795048908673&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061201&hvtargid=pla-582525815706&psc=1) along with an elbow to drain through the bottom pan (I had to enlarge that hole) it makes it really easy to drain the oil.
Evidently the Microquiet generator has a drain plug. RonB
At the same time clean or change the air filter and grease the ball joints. Perhaps replace the generator air filter too. Your Rig will thank you. 🥰
My opinion is that this Ford engine is the easiest vehicle I have ever changed the oil on. Neither my 2003 Ford V-10, nor the Onan Microquiet genset have crush rings or gaskets on the drain plugs. Here are some suggestions to make the job go more safely for you and your rig.
1. Swing the rig's mirrors in close to the door! Trust me, it hurts when you stand up after crawling out from under the rig and you bang your head on the mirrors.
2. A good oil filter wrench that grips the filter tightly makes the job easier. I am not a fan of the oil filter wrench that just slides onto the bottom of the oil filter since they often slip because the previous mechanic over tightned the filter.
3. Make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with the old oil filter. Sometimes it remains on the filter housing. If the removed filter does not have the gasket on it, remove the old gasket from the filter mounting housing with your fingers. Leaving it behind will lead to a disaster.
4. I make it a practice to fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it. Also make sure you smear oil on the new filter gasket.
5. I use large sheets of cardboard to slide the drain pan on and my body on. It saves on spills and scrapes.
On my generator drain plug, I have found that using Rectorseal #5 on the threads will help prevent leaks.
Take your time and don't let distractions cause a mistake. Buy beer with all the money you saved and you will never pay someone to change the oil on your Lazy Daze again.
Steve K.
My opinion is that this Ford engine is the easiest vehicle I have ever changed the oil on. Neither my 2003 Ford V-10, nor the Onan Microquiet genset have crush rings or gaskets on the drain plugs. Here are some suggestions to make the job go more safely for you and your rig.
1. Swing the rig's mirrors in close to the door! Trust me, it hurts when you stand up after crawling out from under the rig and you bang your head on the mirrors.
2. A good oil filter wrench that grips the filter tightly makes the job easier. I am not a fan of the oil filter wrench that just slides onto the bottom of the oil filter since they often slip because the previous mechanic over tightned the filter.
3. Make sure the oil filter gasket comes off with the old oil filter. Sometimes it remains on the filter housing. If the removed filter does not have the gasket on it, remove the old gasket from the filter mounting housing with your fingers. Leaving it behind will lead to a disaster.
4. I make it a practice to fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it. Also make sure you smear oil on the new filter gasket.
5. I use large sheets of cardboard to slide the drain pan on and my body on. It saves on spills and scrapes.
On my generator drain plug, I have found that using Rectorseal #5 on the threads will help prevent leaks.
Take your time and don't let distractions cause a mistake. Buy beer with all the money you saved and you will never pay someone to change the oil on your Lazy Daze again.
Steve K.
Re genset oil change, I installed this device which makes changing oil a breeze: EZ Oil Drain Valve- The Easiest Oil Change! - Home (https://ezoildrainvalve.com/index.html)
Chris
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and comments!
Being newly retired has given me the time I needed to have fun doing my own work!!!
Bill
I have been using this company's products on all of our vehicles for decades Fumoto oil drain valves (https://www.fumotousa.com/about-fumoto) .
Charles
"I have been using this company's products on all of our vehicles for decades Fumoto oil drain valves."
I don't do my other vehicles, but have always changed the oil and filter on the RV. I got one of the Fumoto valves as soon as I learned about them. It's a great solution instead of R & R of the drain plug when it's time to change the oil! I've always (easily) gone under from the front.
I did not think of replacing the plug with an oil drain valve, but I can sure see the advantages, particularly for arthritic hands. Fumoto has two products (for my 2003 [see link below] and probably for many other years); one has a 15mm hose nipple. This one seems like it would be less "dribbly", but is not recommended for any vehicle with limited ground clearance. I think that the E450 has pretty good "ground clearance", but since no specs or measurements as to what constitutes being "close to the ground" are given on the Fumoto site, I don't know. For those of you who have installed the Fumoto drain valve, which do you have?
https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-ford-2003-e-450-super-duty-stripped-chassis-6-8l-v10
4. I make it a practice to fill the new oil filter with oil before installing it. Also make sure you smear oil on the new filter gasket.
Good advice, not filling the filter, before installing, will cause the engine to start with zero oil pressure for several seconds, a slight rattle might be noticed while the filters fills. It’s best not to hear it.
The Fumoto valves Joan listed work great. The long nipple valve version allows connecting a plastic hose to drain the oil cleanly into a disposable container(s), which should be taken to the auto parts store or your city's haz-mat centers drop-off center for recycling..
F106N - Engine Oil Drain Valve with Nipple 14mm-1.5 | FUMOTO (https://www.fumotousa.com/f106n.html)
Oil filter recycling should be done if your area has a program to receive them. In commercial use, the filters are crushed, used oil collected, and the remains bagged and sent to a haz-mat service.
We do not have a local fiter recycling programe, so the used filter is turned upside down and well drain before disposal.
The best prices on oil, at this time, is Walmart, occasionally Costco has sales on Mobil 1, the oil I use in all my vehicles.
Larry
Oh, goody! Something else to spend money on for the LD! One never runs out of those opportunities! ;)
Thanks to the posters who recommended the drain valves!
I did not think of replacing the plug with an oil drain valve, .... For those of you who have installed the Fumoto drain valve, which do you have?
https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-ford-2003-e-450-super-duty-stripped-chassis-6-8l-v10
Joan, last year I installed the F106 N drain valve. One of the motivations for installing the drain valve was to make it easier to take an oil sample for analysis. I think you mentioned having your oil analyzed a couple years ago. Using a tube on the drain valve should make for even neater oil changes too.
With the drain valve you no longer get an arm full of hot oil when you pull the drain plug.
Steve K.
For those of you who have installed the Fumoto drain valve, which do you have?
Joan, we have a F106SX (https://www.fumotousa.com/f106sx.html) Valve with a HK-3/8 (https://www.fumotousa.com/all-products/hk38.html) Hose Kit and a NC-10 (https://www.fumotousa.com/all-products/nc-10.html) Cap.
Charles
Thanks, Steve and Charles. I ordered the F106N:
F106N - Engine Oil Drain Valve with Nipple 14mm-1.5 | FUMOTO (https://www.fumotousa.com/f106n.html)
And, yes, not giving my arm a hot oil treatment or dropping the socket wrench into the oil pan will be a nice change! ;)
I went with the nipple & hose option as well to reduce wind splatter. You’re not out of the woods yet though, Joan unless you’ve found a clever way to eliminate the spray from the oil filter socket.
- Warren
Oh, goody! Something else to spend money on for the LD! One never runs out of those opportunities! ;)
I am quickly finding that out as well.
I don’t know what the cost of having the oil professionally changed is but I imagine it is substantial over the years. Sounds like a drain valve kit is a good investment. Just ordered mine- what’s another 50 bucks? 🤪
"I don’t know what the cost of having the oil professionally changed is but I imagine it is substantial over the years."
---
I'm sure that oil and filter change costs, service availability, and convenience levels for RVs vary a great deal by location. I change the oil and filter (and air filter) on my LD because the LD is kept at my home, I can order oil and filters online (or pick these up locally), curbside oil and filter recycling is available, and I don't have to drive the rig across the city in heavy traffic and sit and wait around for a couple hours at the shop until they can get to it. The local shop labor rate is close to $200 per hour, and the oil and filter costs are far higher from the parts department than from Walmart or an online source; a simple oil and filter change at this shop (it is one of the few places around here which will service an RV at all) runs about $75 - $100 and requires at least four hours of "travel and wait" time.
Not having curbside engine oil and filter recycling might be a deal breaker for me; if that service were not available, I would either have to use a shop or haul the oil jugs to a recycling yard. Doing an oil and filter change is hardly rocket science, and as long as I can physically manage to do the job, I will.
As ever, YMMV.
Joan, you go girl! 👍👍
"I don’t know what the cost of having the oil professionally changed is but I imagine it is substantial over the years."
---
I'm sure that oil and filter change costs, service availability, and convenience levels for RVs vary a great deal by location. I change the oil and filter (and air filter) on my LD because the LD is kept at my home, I can order oil and filters online (or pick these up locally), curbside oil and filter recycling is available, and I don't have to drive the rig across the city in heavy traffic and sit and wait around for a couple hours at the shop until they can get to it. The local shop labor rate is close to $200 per hour, and the oil and filter costs are far higher from the parts department than from Walmart or an online source; a simple oil and filter change at this shop (it is one of the few places around here which will service an RV at all) runs about $75 - $100 and requires at least four hours of "travel and wait" time.
Our challenges to self maintenance are: 1) the rig is stored indoors about 40 miles away 2) no curbside oil pickup (you have to take to an auto parts store, gas station or county site) 3) the HOA doesn't allow self maintenance except "in your garage" and that's that happening with an RV ..........hence our reliance on 3rd parties...but with everything booked up until July 29th I'm looking to drive to my Mom's house (where I grew up) and doing it myself...actually quite excited about doing it as growing up I did all the maintenance on the our cars plus my girlfriend's (now married for 42 years).....I'm going to experience this first try "au natural" but will probably invest in one of the above mentioned drip valves.
Not having curbside engine oil and filter recycling might be a deal breaker for me; if that service were not available, I would either have to use a shop or haul the oil jugs to a recycling yard. Doing an oil and filter change is hardly rocket science, and as long as I can physically manage to do the job, I will.
As ever, YMMV.
"you go girl"
---
Greg, it has been a very long time since I was a "girl"! ;)
Hi Joan; In San Diego at least, maybe county or statewide; any store that sells oil and filters, has to accept oil waste and used filters for recycling. I have an auto store where I recycle just .2 miles away from me, so with 7 vehicles they get steady visits. I buy my Mobil 1 at Costco or Walmart, Filters online, or Walmart. Two of my main vehicles take 9 quarts each.... RonB
"In San Diego at least, maybe county or statewide; any store that sells oil and filters, has to accept oil waste and used filters for recycling."
---
The engine oil recycle information for Santa Clara County is inconsistent; the county website lists dozens of places that supposedly accept "uncontaminated" engine oil, but the latest update for that list is 2013, and it doesn't include any store that sells oil and filters, e.g., Walmart. The CA.gov site lists only a few Auto Zone and O'Reilley auto stores and a couple others. One can also make a drop-off appointment at the toxic waste yard. If I did not have curbside recycling (and knowing how listings of pretty much anything can become outdated quickly), I'd need to call around to the most current listings to find a drop-off location. I just have to scoot out to the curb when I have oil jugs and a filter in its "approved" bag on the curb and hear the recycle truck; sometimes they pick up the oil but don't drop off replacement jugs and filter bag. (Yes, I have used well-washed out gallon milk jugs and double zip-lock bags when the truck doesn't deliver!)
In Portland, Or. you can put the 'used' oil on the curb for pickup on trash day.
glen
Hi Joan; In San Diego at least, maybe county or statewide; any store that sells oil and filters, has to accept oil waste and used filters for recycling.
Ron… just a heads up. I went to the Autozone in Chula Vista (suburb of San Diego) to drop off some used ATF that I had in 1-gallon milk containers. They wouldn’t take it unless it was in an “approved” container such as the original container that the ATF came in. I ended up transferring the used ATF to the original containers and they took it without question. I don’t know if that’s unique to Autozone but you should be aware of the possible restrictions at auto stores.
- John
Hi John R; I use the O'Reillys store just down the street from me. I take my jugs in the back and dump it in the 55 gal. drum. I haven't needed to dump anything else. No ATF, and not coolant lately. I have done a drive through at a high school parking lot just 4 miles away in my pickup. They take the oil, out of the bed, in my (cat litter) containers. With 3 cats I get a few of those, 2 1/2 gallons each. They take filters in quart Ziploc bags. So no problems yet, but It's been awhile. RonB
Thanks Ron, that’s good to know. Pep Boys is only a block away from Autozone and I’m due to change the oil in the Cherokee. I’ll give Pep Boys a try when recycling the oil.
- John
The curbside pick up would be nice but unfortunately in our community we don’t have trash collection, or curbs for that matter. We take our trash to a central dump location which is somewhat inconvenient but necessary for our mountain roads. Going to call some of our local auto parts stores to see what their policies are.
Edit: Both our local AutoZone and O’Reilly’s accepts oil as long as it’s not contaminated. Can be in any container as they just dump it into a larger tank. Our Napa does not except oil.
I have been taking used motor oil and filters to our local AutoZone for years and Pep Boys before that because our city recycling yard is much further away and will only accept such items by appointment and on alternating Saturdays. Given that I haven't needed to recycle these for over a year due to the pandemic I contacted AutoZone corporate to confirm their current recycle policies. Here's their response:
Dear Charles,
Thank you for taking the time to contact AutoZone. Please allow us to kindly explain that we take in old automotive batteries for recycle (no purchase necessary). Please keep in mind that we only accept up to 3 - 5 batteries per customer and you will get a $10.00 merchandise card for every battery that you take in.
Unfortunately AutoZone does not accept antifreeze, coolant or any other chemical product for recycling, please contact local recycling centers and service stations for more information on local disposal these products.
However, your local AutoZone store, will accept up to 5 gallons of oil per customer for recycle as long as the oil is not contaminated or mixed with other fluids and in a clean container with a tight fitting cap or lid. Also, please be informed that any representative at the local store may dispose the oil for you.
If you have any questions, please feel free to call us at 1-800-741-9179 Mon. - Sat. from 7:00 AM - 7:00 PM (Central Standard Time). One of our representatives will gladly assist you further.
Thank you,
Daniella
Customer Service
Charles
Charles,
Thanks for posting the recycle statement of policy from Autozone. I do notice that there is no mention of ATF in their statement. The milk containers I used had screw caps on them so it appears from the statement that they would have been suitable for engine oil recycling but for some reason not ATF. At this point, I just don’t know… all I can say is that the Autozone in Chula Vista wouldn’t take my used ATF in the 1-gallon screw top milk containers but did take it when I transferred the fluid to original containers.
- John
all I can say is that the Autozone in Chula Vista wouldn’t take my used ATF in the 1-gallon screw top milk containers but did take it when I transferred the fluid to original containers.
You have to do something with the old containers, might as well recycled the used oil in them. It's a good reason to buy in the 4 or 5-qt containers, much easier to refill than a bunch of quart bottles.
Our local Pep Boys recycled oil tank always seems to be "full", I have given up on them. I usually buy oil at Walmart or Costco and neither accepts recycled oil.
In the Before Times, the city had drive-up-drop off-site locally, they would take any container of oil. They have very recently reopened, a good thing, I have several gallons of motor oil and transmission to dispose of.
Larry
After getting the Forester oil changed by a local shop in town yesterday ($83.13 out the door) and inquiring about what the charge would be for the motorhome ~($125), I think I'm going to start doing my own oil changes. Bought a Fumoto kit for the LD. Yes, it's a hassle dealing with the oil disposal but mucho dinaro will be saved.
Edit: Looks like about $30 to change the oil/filter (Wal*Mart) on the LD if doing myself.
After getting the Forester oil changed by a local shop in town yesterday ($83.13 out the door) and inquiring about what the charge would be for the motorhome ~($125), I think I'm going to start doing my own oil changes. Bought a Fumoto kit for the LD. Yes, it's a hassle dealing with the oil disposal but mucho dinaro will be saved.
Edit: Looks like about $30 to change the oil/filter (Wal*Mart) on the LD if doing myself.
Since I started this thread, thought I'd give you the final on what I did. Went to my brother's house (not allowed to work on them per our HOA) and changed the generator oil, generator air filter, engine oil, engine oil filter and engine air filter. SUPER easy and saved me a boatload of cash. I forgot the generator spark plug at home so that's getting changed this week before we head out on our two week trip with the grandkids. Thanks everyone for your input. My brother disposes of his oil at AutoZone.
Bill
Hi Greg. Less expensive oil filters than WalMart. Amazon.com: Mobil 1 M1-201 Extended Performance Oil Filter: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-M1-201-Extended-Performance-Filter/dp/B000CIV71Q/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=mobil+1+filter+for+1999+ford+v10&qid=1623861242&sr=8-9) RonB
Hi Greg. Less expensive oil filters than WalMart. Amazon.com: Mobil 1 M1-201 Extended Performance Oil Filter: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-M1-201-Extended-Performance-Filter/dp/B000CIV71Q/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=mobil+1+filter+for+1999+ford+v10&qid=1623861242&sr=8-9) RonB
Ron, WM had the stock oil filter for under 4 bucks so I bought a couple of them! ;)
Motorcraft Engine Oil Filter FL-820-S - Walmart.com - Walmart.com (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcraft-Engine-Oil-Filter-FL-820-S/16817361?comm-msg-vehicle=EMAIL&comm-msg-id=1d8f342d-204f-4843-a190-8467e165848d)
With engine oil filters one need to realize the important roll it play in good engine health. The old adage "You always get what you pay for" holds true here also. I always stay with the highest grade filter on the market regardless of cost. Generally I go to the NAPA Gold, WIX, or Baldwin filters for all our vehicles and farm equipment. There are several YouTube videos comparing different brands of filters which are eye-opening. Here is one:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VzCqjZgIMBk>
Interesting video, Mike. Since I’m still under the Ford powertrain warranty, I figured I’d stay with the OEM filter until next Summer when it expires. Will take a closer look at the other brands after that. I’ve always heard good things about Wix. I think the OEM filters are made by Purolator.