Lazy Daze Owners' Group

Hey all,

Reading the raving reviews, I've decided my next project is a SEE LEVEL 2 for our 2017 MB.  It doesn't matter how much time we have left at a campground, once that Fresh Water hits "E" my wife is ready to pack up & go (even if there's 20 gallons left.)  So I felt the SEE LEVEL 2 would be a good way to relieve some of that anxiety.  I've read the install threads on here and watched a few videos on YOUTUBE, so its definitely in my wheel house.

For those that don't know, the SEE LEVEL 2 monitors the tanks to a resolution of 4% instead of the industry standard "Full, 2/3rds, 1/3rd, Empty" breakdown.  A sensor attaches onto each tank vertically, then computer wizardry of some sort to determine the level of liquid inside.  Before purchasing, the website asks for the size (height) of the tanks so it can send out the correct lengths of sensor strip.

If anybody has those heights, it'll save me a trip to and from the storage yard!

Thanks! 

-- Jim

don't have a MB, but will see if I can get you the ones for mine.

btw you could always just wait for the water to actually be out on the cold knob, and once it's done, you still have 6gal in the "hot" knob which is cold unless you turn the water heater on.

We usually start packing once the cold knob one is out

Jim, I will be bringing ours from storage to home on Friday and could get those measurements for you then. Sounds like a mod I would like to do also. Do you buy directly from the manufacturer?

Height is a relative thing for the odd-shaped tanks on our FL, and I assume the same applies for your MB. You will likely find one gauge strip for each tank will work fine, and only make a decision on where you want the 'empty' of 'full' location to be. What has been done by at least one member is to tape the sensors to the tanks instead of using the self-adhesive so they could be adjusted until a satisfactory spot is found. The Seelevel is very accurate and consistent, but placement is arbitrary. The only general result is you want to know the when the water tank approaches empty, and the waste tanks full. So locate the sensors so you are happy the info is useful...

Steve

When I install our SeeLevel on our 2017 MB the grey tank was the only tank that needed an extension sensor strip to cover bottom to top.  I elected not to buy extension, and put the strip beginning at the top of tank down about 80% of the way.  We have 0% filled for 1st day or so until it begins to register, but that is okay with us.

On my 2013 MB, I used two strips on my fresh and one on each of the other tanks. I like seeing how much we use daily to extrapolate when to refill.

It’s pretty tight where the FW tank is so I’m wondering how you install the sensor strip on it?  Although a bit of a hassle, you can pull off the kick panel under the sink and visually check the FW tank level by using a flashlight.  Can’t get more accurate than that.

It’s pretty tight where the FW tank is so I’m wondering how you install the sensor strip on it? 

On my midbath, I took off a side of the storage compartment below the fridge to attach the See-level sensor strip on the end. EZ, PZ.

Steve K.

If I remember correctly, on our 2002 MB I pulled the stove out and had good access to the side of the fresh water tank.  As I recall, just four screws and the propane connection at the top rear.

Art

Art is correct, removing the stove (a simple matter of six screws and carefull slide-out), provides very good access to the fresh water tank. I had the stove out on my 2019 MB yesterday while installing a Wave 3 heater and noted this fact then. 

Warren

Warren, would you care to share photos of your propane install for the Wave heater?  :)

Here you go, Greg...

Camco Olympian Wave 3 Catalytic Heater Installation (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=36575.0)

Jim, I will be bringing ours from storage to home on Friday and could get those measurements for you then. Sounds like a mod I would like to do also. Do you buy directly from the manufacturer?

Hiola,

That'd be great!  Let me know how it goes.  In re: purchasing.  Checking the See Level site, I see they put you to their distributor network.  I see it for sale online at rvupgradestore.com for $199.  I'll call around to see if the local guys can beat that price!

Jim

Jim,
Height of the FW tank is 14.25 inches. The gray and black are odd-shaped so I’m adding some photos. The first two are the gray tank in the rear of the chassis. The other is the black, midway on the driver side.  Let me know if you need anything else.

Hiola, thanks!  What a great community!  I'm looking at Model 709 (FW/grey/black/lpg.)  Will be going with rvupgradestore.com as I believe $199 is the best price going.

So today's the day to start this project and... I'm not sure where to mount the new panel.  I got the panel that has Fresh, Grey, Black and Battery but my only concern are the tanks.  That leaves half the OEM panel still needed (battery, Generator on/off, generator hours, hot water on/off, water pump on/off.)

Maybe this is where I should've gotten the bluetooth option as I'm hard pressed to cut into the panels willy-nilly.  Does anybody have any pictures of their SeeLevel installs on a mid-bath (mine's a 2017.)  Any thoughts on the panel placement would be appreciated. 

Thanks,
Jim

Following.

The wooden panel with the factory status panel on it is out of space on my 2013 MB. I mounted the See Level display down low beneath the sink, close to the fresh water tank, a couple of feet left of the propane leak detector. I don’t squat down to look at it very often, so I haven’t spent the time to move it up to be in better view for checking usage. What it is good for is, I can see it from outside the door while the hose is filling the tank.

For what it's worth, in my 2003 midbath I mounted several monitor panels including the SeaLevel II in the end cap of the cabinet over the sink.



I've seen people do this using LD's padded end cap, cutting additional openings in it. But I made a plywood replacement for the original end cap. It wasn't too hard. I spaced it out about an inch from the cabinet, using lumber cut to fit, to allow room for the guts of the various displays.

Thanks for the replies plus the pics.  Andy, replacing the whole cap is an interesting idea...  You get to really control where everything goes and it gives you a second chance if you make a mistake. 

Looking at mine, I think the most logical spot would be above the solar panel controller.  But again, I'm loathe to cut into the upholstery.  Maybe I could make a new pad?

Steve,
Do you have any pictures of your placement on your MB?

Spartan 11, if you are asking me (Steve K) about photos of my "placement" the answer is no. But it would be easy to go take a photo of where I mounted the display. Photos of the sensor strip on the fresh water tank would not be an easy thing though.

I had replied that I placed the sensor for the fresh water tank on the forward side of the fresh water tank; I accessed that by taking the wood panels of the side of the storage compartment below the refrigerator.

I tend to do things the easiest way so I mounted the Seelevel display above the propane detector where I could tap into power easily and also routed the wires from the gray and black tanks from below. I don't recall the exact place but Andy B. found a route that just involved poking a hole through some sealant. I think I used part of a ballpoint pen as a conduit to run the wires through. I never connected the propane tank to the display. I trust the gadget on the tank but never trusted the LD holding tank monitor to be accurate.

Steve K.

This is what I measured on my 2016 MB.
Fresh water 14” inches high
Grey tank 8 1/4 inches high
Black tank 10 inches high
Haven’t ordered yet, need to decide on Bluetooth option.
Cheers

Thanks for the replies plus the pics.  Andy, replacing the whole cap is an interesting idea...  You get to really control where everything goes and it gives you a second chance if you make a mistake. 

Looking at mine, I think the most logical spot would be above the solar panel controller.  But again, I'm loathe to cut into the upholstery.  Maybe I could make a new pad?

I chose to construct a new control panel for our 2019 TK.  I wanted to incorporate the new "See Level" panel along with some added features: hot water heater temperature display, "Hott Rod" water heater control switch and a pump control switch for transferring gray water to the black tank (future project).  I used "Microsoft Word" to lay out the template for the new panel.  In "Word" I inserted "shapes" and scaled rectangles and ovals to the actual size of the components and cutouts.  I used 1/8" high white "Datak" dry transfer lettering on the panel and so in "Word" I picked a font & font size that matched the "Datak" lettering.  When I was satisfied with the layout, I printed it out on an "Avery" label that has an adhesive back and then placed it on a 1/16" (actually .063") sheet of aluminum.  After making the cutouts, I sprayed it with some "Krylon" satin black paint.  I then installed all of the components and rubbed on all of the lettering with a burnishing tool (absolute worst part of this project).  Next I removed all of the components and gave the panel a couple of coats of "Krylon" clear matte finish paint.  Because of the additional components, my new panel turned out a little bigger than the original , so I made the opening bigger in the padded end cap.  I was able to remove the end cap (which was fastened from the back inside a cabinet with 4 long screws) and take it to my workbench to work on.

Kendall

I gotta say, that looks nice......

Jon

I chose to construct a new control panel for our 2019 TK.  I wanted to incorporate the new "See Level" panel along with some added features: hot water heater temperature display, "Hott Rod" water heater control switch and a pump control switch for transferring gray water to the black tank (future project).  I used "Microsoft Word" to lay out the template for the new panel.  In "Word" I inserted "shapes" and scaled rectangles and ovals to the actual size of the components and cutouts.  I used 1/8" high white "Datak" dry transfer lettering on the panel and so in "Word" I picked a font & font size that matched the "Datak" lettering.  When I was satisfied with the layout, I printed it out on an "Avery" label that has an adhesive back and then placed it on a 1/16" (actually .063") sheet of aluminum.  After making the cutouts, I sprayed it with some "Krylon" satin black paint.  I then installed all of the components and rubbed on all of the lettering with a burnishing tool (absolute worst part of this project).  Next I removed all of the components and gave the panel a couple of coats of "Krylon" clear matte finish paint.  Because of the additional components, my new panel turned out a little bigger than the original , so I made the opening bigger in the padded end cap.  I was able to remove the end cap (which was fastened from the back inside a cabinet with 4 long screws) and take it to my workbench to work on.

Kendall
[attach type=thumb]26256[/attach][attach type=thumb]26252[/attach][attach type=thumb]26254[/attach]

Some folks just have too much talent. Outstanding work, Kendall!

Chris

Very nice work, Kendall!

Hats off to you, Kendall.  This is amazing work, it blends in perfectly.  Thank you for sharing the photos and the template (and for the tip of being able to take the end cap off to take to the workbench.)

Question: I'm not familiar with the "Gray to Blk" switch -- is that a new feature?  A pump which moves gray tank water to the black tank?

Jim

Question: I'm not familiar with the "Gray to Blk" switch -- is that a new feature?  A pump which moves gray tank water to the black tank?

The switch is for a future transfer pump, for pumping excess gray water to the black tank. We always fill the gray first.
Holding tank transfer pump | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157602095132380/)

Larry

Hats off to you, Kendall.  This is amazing work, it blends in perfectly.  Thank you for sharing the photos and the template (and for the tip of being able to take the end cap off to take to the workbench.)

Question: I'm not familiar with the "Gray to Blk" switch -- is that a new feature?  A pump which moves gray tank water to the black tank?

Jim

You are welcome Jim.  I hope this helps you in deciding how to mount your "See Level" panel.  Also thank you and the other members for the kind comments.  I do some things well but other tasks not so much.

So just to follow up on this project (installing SeeLevel gauges inside my 2017 MB):  I've completely chickened out.  I followed Kendall's template, got the right size aluminum plate, readied myself to cut into the panel... and then said:  Nope.

I just knew I'd make a cosmetic mistake somewhere and for the rest of my "lazy days" I'd be focused on that instead of the greater clarification the SeeLevel would give me.  I love the LD's clean look too much to risk it.

However, -- I already have the SeeLevel kit ($$$) and I'd like to install it somehow in one of the lower bays, to the side in the propane bay or the generator bay, somewhere without active storage.  This way I could satisfy my OCD when the tanks went into the red.  Now the crazy part:  The SeeLevel board requires a +5V input and a ground.  Could I run this off 4 1.5V AA cell batteries?  Just hook up a small battery cage, turn it on for my trip, take it off when I'm done?

The SeeLevel board requires a +5V input and a ground.  Could I run this off 4 1.5V AA cell batteries?  Just hook up a small battery cage, turn it on for my trip, take it off when I'm done?

Every See-Level I have installed operates on 12 volts, not 5 volts.
https://www.garnetinstruments.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/709-series-Spec-Sheet-AR-ES2-08-Jun-2022.pdf

If you are scared to make the interior cut, hire someone to do it. Having the monitor inside the rig is a lot more convenient than an external mount which will seldomly be looked at.

Larry

12v, okay!  Thank you, Larry!

Jim

So just to follow up on this project (installing SeeLevel gauges inside my 2017 MB):  I've completely chickened out.  I followed Kendall's template, got the right size aluminum plate, readied myself to cut into the panel... and then said:  Nope.

There is a way around this. The SeeLevel takes minimal depth. Simply make a template cutout in a nice piece of 1" thick oak board a bit larger than the front of the unit. Mount the unit on the board, routing the wires out a channel in the back of the board, then position and mount to the wall surface using Scotch Command strips. All you need is a small hole to pass the wires through. I have used this many times to avoid cutting into panels to mount something that might not be as permanent as I would hope...

Steve