I was at the factory last summer and Todd sold me LED replacements for the clearance lights on my 97 RB. (One had gotten cracked) I referred to the Companion site more carefully when I got ready to install and read that the upgrades are for 2006 and newer coaches. I called Todd last week and he reassured me that they will work. Maybe these are a different kind, but they don't look compatible to me. From the pictures, can I get an opinion on this and any advice on how to go about installing them?
"...they don't look compatible to me."
I don't understand your hesitancy!
They are the right shape (and I presume size). They both use 12v, they both have two wires. I'd say go for it, I've done it myself. ;)
Hi Steve, I am encouraged that you have already done this. My hesitancy comes from the age of my coach, that there are 3 wires, (2 on the bottom) and from not knowing 1 thing about doing this, although I have replaced some light switches in the house, with help. Every job I do is new to me, but it doesn't stop me. I just need to know if it's safe, (like do I turn off a breaker?) and how to go about it. :)
"I just need to know if it's safe, (like do I turn off a breaker?)..."
Since there's no power to those lights unless the headlight switch (or ignition?) is on, there's no risk in working on them when parked. (And there are no breakers involved with the running lights.)
(And there are no breakers involved; in a Lazy Daze, those are only used for 120 VAC.)
Andy, sorry but that is not entirely correct. There are 12V breakers in a LD but not in the exterior and interior 12V circuits (which are fused). There are 12V breakers in the battery box and of course, the notorious "hidden" 12V breaker in the converter-battery circuit.
Charles
that there are 3 wires, (2 on the bottom)
there may be three just because they run in a series to the other lights or so, one has the current from the battery, one is for tht light, and the other is to pass the current to another light.
my LD manual shows a diagram of those cables, not sure if yours does too
So when the headlight switch is pulled out to the first click on my 98~MB all the marker and tail lights come on regardless of the ignition switch and when the head light switch is pulled out all the way the headlights go on also regardless of the ignition switch. I believe there is a headlight and marker fuse in the cab fuse box?
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
Nina
"There are 12V breakers in the battery box and of course, the notorious 'hidden' 12V breaker in the converter-battery circuit."
Of course--how could I forget that hidden breaker? ;-) Thanks for the correction, Charles. I've emended my post, in order not to mislead anyone. I've also corrected my comment about the lights being controlled by the ignition switch, thanks to Karen & Liam. Sorry, folks!
"...the age of my coach, that there are 3 wires, (2 on the bottom..."
Beg to differ... see those 3 wires that are connected by a wire nut (the opaque cap that connects all). Electrically speaking all of those wires are common, and can be counted as one. Then there is that white wire going to the right side of the bulb and that makes two. So, black is one and white is one and that = two.
Do you have a VOM (volt/ohm meter)? If you do, set the meter to measure voltage, connect the meters negative (-) probe to the left side (black) of the bulb and the meters positive (+) probe to the right side of the bulb. Now trust me on this, pull the bulb out of it's socket! What does your meter read? It should be 12v (presuming the light switch on the cab dash is pulled out one click.
If you do in fact have 12v across that empty socket you know that power is reaching the fixture.
Normal up the dash light switch (all the way in). You can now proceed to replace the old with the new marker light. Polarity should not matter but were it me I'd connect the red wire of the new fixture to the existing black wires and connect the white wire to the white wire coming out of the hole behind the old fixture. CAUTION: Do not let the coach wires slip back into the hole or you may not be able to retrieve them! Lots of luck!
Thank you all. I will check it with the volt meter and then get to work on it. I will let you know how it goes!
I am reminded all to often when I walk away from our LD and look back only to see that I left the headlights on again!
PS. I just noticed that a couple of my markers are out, is there an LED bulb that will fit?
Thanks
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
I am reminded all to often when I walk away from our LD and look back only to see that I left the headlights on again!
PS. I just noticed that a couple of my markers are out, is there an LED bulb that will fit?
Ron probably has the LED answer. I’m sure there are drop-in replacements bulbs
Most clearance light problems are caused by bad connections, wither at the bulb's contacts or with a bad ground wire.
Fiddle areound with the cleanance light before riping it out for replacement. Give everything a light coating of dielectric grease.
Our 2003 still uses the stock-style incandescent bulbs and they still all work. Our LD running lights are on so seldomly, I see little benefit to changing them to LEDs
Larry
Hi MAMANOVA,
I have enjoyed the discussion about the marker light replacement. I looked at mine this weekend installing a backup camera system using the middle back marker light for power on my 97 LD RT. It took a few minutes and a multimeter to figure out the the central clump of black wires.
Would you be so kind as to share the instruction sheet you had under the replacement LED light picture? I was trying to read the instructions and sealant recommendations.
Thanks
I am reminded all to often when I walk away from our LD and look back only to see that I left the headlights on again!
I always forget to turn the headlights off as well (I like to have them on even in the daytime). Our cab has the dinging alarm when you open the cab door as a reminder to turn off the lights, so that helps. When I forget is when I stop and go straight into the coach section without getting out through the cab door.
"I just noticed that a couple of my markers are out, is there an LED bulb that will fit?"
The simple answer is, yes, they can be acquired. eTrailer.com is one source. However, I believe you will find that the replacement of the bulb alone will be an expensive proposition. It may be more economical to replace the entire fixture... these are mostly sealed units which will eliminate corrosion common in the old styles.
Incidentally, the type of bulb base used on our LDs is referred to as a 'Wedge' base. Take a look at one of your existing bulbs to see what I'm saying. ;)
Sorry, that link is for eTrailer.com
Hi Lazy 97, The sheet under the pictures is one of many topics I printed from the Lazy Daze Companion on the website. There is a link for it on the Home page, dead center. Contributions come from some of our members who know how to repair and upgrade all kinds of things on the LD's. I recommend taking a look. I usually start there for advice and inspiration. In fact I tackled a roof reseal last summer, thanks to the great advice from there, and various other projects. I have also walked away with lights on. I have thought about upgrading to a newer model for the "idiot" reminders that newer truck have.
Thanks Larry, Steve, we carry extra bulbs and have replaced some in the past. I was wondering if there is a benefit to using led bulbs in the marker lights if the original housings are in good shape and make good contact with the bulbs. We have our lights on a lot in the daytime since we drive a lot on two lane roads. We definitely are planning on adding a LED third stop light on the rear for better visibility. We have the LED replacement bulbs for the tail lights but need to replace the relay for one that works with LED bulbs, has anyone else done that - any advice?
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
Nina
MAMANOVA, thanks for the tip. I am still discovering all the nooks and crannies for information on this site.
Hi Karen and Liam. The relay you want is this: Amazon.com: Grote 44892 3 Pin Flasher (North American (JSO) Pinout): Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5RKI8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) A direct plug in with electronically controlled .5 second on, .5 second off, independent of load.
I used #194 LED replacements from SuperbrightLEDs.com. 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Base | Super Bright LEDs (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-panel-light-bulb/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/922/) at 630 nm. in the deep red, a good match for the lens cap. And this part for the amber, although it was more yellow, it still worked well for the lens cap. 194 LED Bulb - 5 SMD LED Tower - Miniature Wedge Base | Super Bright LEDs (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/instrument-panel-light-bulb/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/923/)
I used a little dielectric grease on the pins, and on the rim of the lens so that it would snap in easier to the white base.
I was working on replacement discs with 12 LED's built in. I've got the parts, but I need to construct each light. The project has stalled for lack of time. Who thought I'd be so busy since I retired! Pictures are in my previous posts. RonB
Thanks Ron,
I knew I could get an answer here then trial and error with relays who's sellers claim to work.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NiñA
I posted a picture of the LED light without the cover, since it is not the Bargman mentioned in the Companion section. I don't see any brand on it and the receipt only says round LED clearance light. The price was similar though. I wonder if anyone can recommend a good way to remove the old light and sealant originally used?
"I wonder if anyone can recommend a good way to remove the old light and sealant originally used?"
The 1st thing I'd do is to slather those rusty mounting screws with Penetrating Oil and allow it to soak in, and additional applications if the first does not work.
Then, when the screws are removed use a thin bladed putty knife to work under and all around the base of the old fixture until you achieve the desired result. Ain't this stuff fun?
Again, be careful to not loose those wires.
Thank you! I didn't know to do that. Even had to look up what that is, but it makes sense.
We definitely are planning on adding a LED third stop light on the rear for better visibility.
I added a CHMSL (Center High-Mounted Stop Light) to our LD. Pictures are here (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?action=media;sa=album;in=568).
Mark H.
Very nice work, Mark!
"I added a CHMSL..."
Sweet looking job, I'm envious!
One tiny suggestion, how about a dab of sealant, internal and external, where the cable exits the tire cover. And possibly at the rear of the Cyclopes unit. I think I can see the printed circuit board behind that opening. :(
"I added a CHMSL..."
One tiny suggestion, how about a dab of sealant, internal and external, where the cable exits the tire cover. And possibly at the rear of the Cyclopes unit. I think I can see the printed circuit board behind that opening. :(
Steve-
I don't remember if I thought about that during the installation... although these days I can't remember what I had for lunch!
I may have chosen not to put sealant at the rear of the bracket because the circuit board is "encapsulated" on the rear of the LED strip, and thus is protected from the elements. The tire cover is protected with a rubber grommet. Instead of split loom through the grommet, I used a piece of tubing. Little water should get in there (or so I hoped).
Thanks for the compliment (you too, Andy).
Mark H.
MAMANOVA,
Your light is a Kaper II L14-0087R Red LED Marker/Clearance Light. they are available on Amazon. The amber has an "A" rather than a the letter "R" at the end of the ID.
Update! The electrical is all connected and I love how bright the LEDs are. I am still cleaning off the old sealants under the former lights, but Goof Off and a chisel are working great. The way the old lights connected were that the electrical wires came out of the RV and into the light to connect. These LEDs require connecting all wires outside the light and get shoved back inside the RV. The hole is kind of small for the 2 separate wires with the caps to go in, but it will be possible. I am thinking it might be hard to get them back out if needed. Would like to know your thoughts about drilling the hole a little larger or securing the wires and caps somehow in case I notice the lights are out (heaven forbid!) and have to fix it. Thanks much.
I would just absolutely be certain that any holes are well sealed. I seem to remember a posting recently were the “attic” sustained water damage from water getting past one of the marker lights.
It's taken me awhile, but I finished the work a few months back . I do feel that as someone stated in the companion site, "only do if necessary" or something like that. After the initial removal of the old light and removal of all the old sealant, the problems I encountered were that the new light fixtures appeared to have holes that aligned with the old screws, but they were not exact. We needed to drill out exact fits. Unfortunately I didn't realize until I had gooped on all the sealant and got ready to drill down the screws. The other thing that happened was that apparently some of the screws were stripped and required a larger size to grab.
I also didn't put enough sealant to smoosh out all the way around. I remedied it by a utube video that focused on the way to make sealant look great. I think it was the same as the companion site but my head wasn't ready yet at that point. Anyway I sealed the heck out of the edges and with a prayer, hope no leaks will ever happen. Now hope to head to an area with rain but will be nervous until I know I did ok.
I could never justify the amount of work needed to make the LED conversion, especially considering it has always been possible to make the incandescent bulbs work with a little work. We rarely drive at night anymore since both of us are now retired so it would be of no benefit.
Larry