HI Everyone,
I have a 2007 MB, and it has two Interstate 6V batteries as well as two 100W solar panels. I don't know how old the batteries are, but they came with the unit when we bought it used 5 years ago. The batteries have been bulging for a couple years now, and the lights are getting within a couple hours). I'm thinking that it's time to get some new ones.
I'm willing to spend the extra $$$ for AGMs to not have to ever worry that I've let the battery fluid levels drop too far between refills, which undoubtedly will happen often. I think I would like to get two Lifeline GPL-4CT batteries as the replacement, which appear to be the right size for my LD's sliding tray configuration. Aside from pulling the solar panel fuse, turning the disconnect switch to the "disconnect" position, and making sure the electrical connections match what I have now, do I need to change any of the solar controller settings (which I have no clue of how to do)? I've include a picture of my solar controller to this post as well.
Thank you, in advance, for any tips or suggestions!
Eric
Do you have a printed manual for the HPV-22? I can't find one online.
You might (should I think) have some dip switch adjustments that will let you set the charge voltage to whatever is specified by the AGM battery manufacturer.
Here are the settings for a different Heliotrope controller:
Heliotrope PV RV-45D Operation Manual (Page 3 of 6) | ManualsLib (https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1317391/Heliotrope-Pv-Rv-45d.html?page=3#manual)
3rd paragraph here for more on the switches and how to access:
The Lazy Daze Companion: HPV-22/HPV-22B Solar Controllers (http://lazydazearticles.blogspot.com/2011/06/hpv-22hpv-22b-solar-controllers.html)
Rich
Hi Rich and others,
Thanks for suggesting that I look for the manual of my solar controller. Yes, in fact, I do have a printed manual. In it, it says "the HPV-22 is factory set at 14.3 +/- 0.1 volts, and no adjustment is needed for flooded lead-acid batteries. For AGM batteries, you may wish to dial this down to 14.1 or 14.2 volts." Given the words "you may wish", and the small voltage difference between the factory setting and the 14.1-14.2 range suggested for AGM batteries, plus not understanding the manual's directions for "Adjusting the MPPT Potentiometer", I'm very inclined to leave the settings as-is. Would I possibly be making a big mistake and causing damage to the new LifeLine AGM batteries (or anything else)?
(In case it helps, in 2013 or 2014, my converter appears to have been upgraded to Progressive Dynamics PD4600 Series Converter Replacement Unit with a built-in Charge Wizard.)
Appreciate any and all other comments.
Thank you,
Eric
"Would I possibly be making a big mistake and causing damage to the new LifeLine AGM batteries...?"
AGMs really do not like to be overcharged. I'd follow Lifeline's recommendations to the letter. See the Lifeline battery technical manual (http://lifelinebatteries.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/6-0101-Rev-E-Lifeline-Technical-Manual.pdf) for details. Charging recommendations are on page 19.
Note that the recommended voltages depend upon the temperature. Does the HPV-22 have a temperature sensor? You may want to consider a modern controller such as the Blue Sky 3000i (https://www.solar-electric.com/lib/wind-sun/SB3000i-manual.pdf), which fits the same space.
I had the HPV22B charge controller in my 2003; it was replaced with the Blue Sky 3000i after the HPV overcharged the AGMs to the point that one actually split.
AGMs (like lithium) are not "plug and play" into whatever charge controller and converter that one happens to have; the components have to be matched.
If you prefer to keep the HPV, you may want to consider installing Trojan T-105 watered cell batteries with a "Pro-Fill" system.
YMMV, as always.
Our 2010 27' RB has this factory notation for our model. Our unit also has the 22B command/control face.
"Sealed, maintenance-free AGM batteries replace Trojan T-105 flooded-cell batteries"
Joan, is it possible that your charger was defective; hence overcharging your batteries?
I ask because I was just about to purchase a pair of AGM batteries, but really hesitate to do so now while maintaining the 22B.
Guess the real question is - is it safe to install AGM batteries and keep the factory installed 22B? Many folks in my shoes with the same question.
Cheers!
Tony R. (aka codefour)
The HPV22B worked well with the original Trojan T-105 watered cell batteries, so I doubt if the charge controller was defective. Before spending on AGMs, you may want to study the requirements in the Lifeline PDF that Andy linked to, and call Lifeline and talk to one of their techs about the compatibility of the HPV22 with their AGMs.
AGMs are very pricey, and I would not install them without confirmation from the manufacturer of the batteries that the HPV22 can provide the proper levels of charge.
YMMV, as always.
Switching to AGM's will cost you 2x the price of traditional lead acids. Buying a new charge controller will add a few hundred more $ to the bill.
Maybe it's ok to not care as well as you should for the lead acids and replace them along the way. It's cheaper any way.....
Rich
The Heliotrope MPPT solar charge controllers came about early in the technology, and they are NOT modern multi-stage units. They have bulk and absorption stages but no automatic switching to any maintenance mode. Therefore they are prone to overcharging your batteries, which will kill AGMs. It may be possible to adjust the voltage they switch to absorption mode, necessary for setting up AGMs, but that does not solve the problem. They will boil the electrolyte off flooded cell batteries too, but a Pro-Fill or similar system makes keeping the proper level pretty easy.
Steve
Hi Everyone,
I appreciate all of the input, but I'm wondering if the following additional information leads you to reconsider that maybe, just maybe, my current set-up will, in fact, work well with the LifeLine AGM batteries.
Thanks Andy for the link to the manual for the LifeLine AGM batteries. Page 19 (about Charging) says:
1) "...a 3-stage charging profile is recommended.
2) A voltage setting of 14.3 volts +/- 0.1 volts should be used when the battery temperature is 77 degrees F."
I get that I may be overlooking quite a bit, but I found some additional information that has me wondering if my HPV-22 Solar Controller and my PD4600 Charge Controller set-up will meet the above-stated requirements from the LifeLine manual. Here is relevant information from my manuals that has me more confident:
1) HPV-22 (non-B) MPPT Solar Charge Controller. The factory setting for the Voltage Set Point is 14.3 (+/- 0.1) volts. This matches exactly with what the LifeLine manual states should be used for a voltage setting. As an FYI, the manual also says that it has "Bulk" charging using MPPT until the battery voltage approaches the controller's battery voltage set point. It then moves into "Absorbtion" charging and the "Charging Amps" taper off until it's "trickle" charging.
2) Progressive Dynamics PD4600 Series Converter Replacement that was installed in 2014. This converter has a "Charge Wizard 4-State charging system built in" and "This converter/charger will not boil the battery!" I may be WAY oversimplying Electricity 101 here, but wouldn't the Converter act like a "filter" and prevent the Solar Charger from causing any overcharging or boiling of my AGMs?
I know I should still contact LifeLine to ask about the compatibility of my set-up with their LifeLine GPL-4CT AGM batteries, but I would still like to hear any second (or first) thoughts from my LD friends.
Thank you,
Eric
Hi Eric. The Progressive Dynamics converter and the solar controller are connected in parallel to your batteries. Whichever charger was providing the highest voltage would 'win' the battle, and the other controller would back off the charge voltage to not overcharge the batteries, be they wet, or not as wet, AGM.
I would dial back the voltage output of the HPV-22, to the voltage that the HPV-22b would output if it were placed in the 'shore-power' mode. As stated by the LD companion, the 'low' mode at 13.2 volts won't hurt the new AGM batteries. If I remember correctly the HPV-22 does have the battery temperature sensor. My old SB2000i did have the temp sensor.
If you find that the new AGM batteries aren't being kept up to what you want, you can always change it back. I think you'll find that the 13.2 volt float voltage will be good. The SB3000i goes to float mode at 13.2 volts also, for AGM batteries. RonB
Hi Eric. The Progressive Dynamics converter and the solar controller are connected in parallel to your batteries. Whichever charger was providing the highest voltage would 'win' the battle, and the other controller would back off the charge voltage to not overcharge the batteries, be they wet, or not as wet, AGM.
I would dial back the voltage output of the HPV-22, to the voltage that the HPV-22b would output if it were placed in the 'shore-power' mode. As stated by the LD companion, the 'low' mode at 13.2 volts won't hurt the new AGM batteries. If I remember correctly the HPV-22 does have the battery temperature sensor. My old SB2000i did have the temp sensor.
If you find that the new AGM batteries aren't being kept up to what you want, you can always change it back. I think you'll find that the 13.2 volt float voltage will be good. The SB3000i goes to float mode at 13.2 volts also, for AGM batteries. RonB
Thanks Ron for educating me about the Solar Controller and Controller/Charger working in parallel. Makes perfect sense now. Also, you're right that the HPV-22 does have the temperature mode.
Yes, I'm pretty sure that I can change one of the DIP switch settings to put the HPV-22 Solar Controller into "shore power mode" (ie. 13.2 volts). So, I'm glad to hear that that is an option if I don't want to spend a few hundred dollars upgrading to the SB33000i unit. On the other hand, I'm wondering what the downside is of going this route given that LifeLine recommends 14.3 volts (+/- 0.1 volts)? Will I never have a full charge of my battery?
Hi Eric. The Progressive Dynamics converter and the solar controller are connected in parallel to your batteries. Whichever charger was providing the highest voltage would 'win' the battle, and the other controller would back off the charge voltage to not overcharge the batteries, be they wet, or not as wet, AGM.
I would dial back the voltage output of the HPV-22, to the voltage that the HPV-22b would output if it were placed in the 'shore-power' mode. As stated by the LD companion, the 'low' mode at 13.2 volts won't hurt the new AGM batteries. If I remember correctly the HPV-22 does have the battery temperature sensor. My old SB2000i did have the temp sensor.
If you find that the new AGM batteries aren't being kept up to what you want, you can always change it back. I think you'll find that the 13.2 volt float voltage will be good. The SB3000i goes to float mode at 13.2 volts also, for AGM batteries. RonB
Do I have this right now? If I change the HPV-22 DIP Switch #2 to the "Low" position, the HPV-22 Solar Charger will only charge up to 13.2 volts. Since the LifeLine AGMs call for a Float voltage of 13.3, the AGMs should be safe from overcharging/boiling.
This sounds like a good option, partly because it removes the need to spend $250 on the SB3000i 3-stage solar controller.
I'm sure there are downsides to this approach versus the SB3000i unit (eg. it will take longer to charge the batteries) What are they?
Thank for all of your continued advice!
Eric
Eric, the charge current delivered by the solar controller is determined by its voltage and the charge state of the batteries. Limiting the output to 13.2 V will keep the batteries from losing electrolyte, but it will also seriously limit the ability of the solar array from recharging your batteries when you are not using shorepower. As long as you are willing to fiddle with DIP switches, you should keep the voltage at 13.2V when on shorepower, but switch to the higher voltage to charge up when boondocking. Ideally, once the voltage has risen to 14.3V, monitor the charge current, and when it drops below 1 Amp, switch back to 13.2V. You may find that this happens naturally by sunset - but keep your eye on it. Also, make the check when everything else is off, since the solar system will be powering lights, fans, etc during the day, supplying the needed current for that. Upgrading to a true 3 or 4 stage controller will allow you to set-and-forget - much more relaxing. Or, skip the AGM's and stick with flooded cell and a Pro-Fill system. Much cheaper, less worry, and similar lifetime.
Steve
p.s. When LD was installing factory AGMs with the Heliotrope controller, many had premature battery failure...
"Upgrading to a true 3 or 4 stage controller will allow you to set-and-forget - much more relaxing. Or, skip the AGM's and stick with flooded cell and a Pro-Fill system. Much cheaper, less worry, and similar lifetime."
---
Bingo.
"When LD was installing factory AGMs with the Heliotrope controller, many had premature battery failure..."
----
And when AM solar did the same, bingo redux.
I've been quiet for this debate but ...<smile> the first question is how long do you plan to keep and use your LD. Once I have that answer I can give my opinion as to the original question.
In the long run lithium is the cheapest upgrade. But if your plan is only for a few years (three or less) then just get the cheapest batteries that will work for you. Then just get a good nights sleep.
glen
If you're still considering the 3000i, note that it will also divert up to two amps to maintain the starting battery in your coach while in storage. That's a big deal for RV used seasonally.
Steve
If you're still considering the 3000i, note that it will also divert up to two amps to maintain the starting battery in your coach while in storage. That's a big deal for RV used seasonally.
I can't count how many folks I know who have suffered through the destruction of a set (or two) of AGMs, due to overcharging, at $600+ a pair, it can be painful.
AGMs are very sensitive to overcharging because the electrolyte cannot be added to or topped off, as a lead-acid battery can.
I have heard of few problems from users of the Blue Sky 3000i, the controller LD has used with AGMs for years. As Rich points out, the Blue Sky can also keep the starting battery charged, our LD's starting battery life has greatly increased while using one.
When LD first installed AGM, they had dozens of batteries go bad under warranty due to overcharging, using the same equipment that worked fine with the lead-acid batteries.
Keep an eye on charge voltage and consider installing a battery monitor so you can see the actual voltages and charge levels, it provides a lot of information if you use it.
I will stay a lead-acid battery user until lithiums become more affordable and my existing batteries wear out, it may be a while with a 7-8 year life span.
Being able to add water is useful if the charge level is high, a battery can tolerate and survive high charge levels better if the electrolyte can be topped off.
With a Pro-Fill better watering system, servicing the battery is fast, clean and easy. Other than not needing water service, AGMs do not offer any major features over lead-acid batteries for most LD owners, other than draining your wallet faster.
If money isn't an issue or you plan on long-term ownership, as Glen pointed out, lithiums may be a better choice.
Larry
Then for me the issue is resolved!
For the short haul I am going to stay with my HPV-22B and lead-acid batteries that are 2 years old in very good shape.
Is there a particular Pro-Fill model that you recommend for the standard 6v-dual battery set up. Looks like the choices are endless.
Much appreciated.
Tony R. (aka codefour0
Is there a particular Pro-Fill model that you recommend for the standard 6v-dual battery set up. Looks like the choices are endless.
2-battery manifold kit. The Pro-Fill is manufactured by Flow-Rite and is what out LD is equipped with.
Amazon.com: Flow-Rite RV2000 Pro-Fill RV Edition 2 Battery Kit: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Flow-Rite-RV2000-Pro-Fill-Battery-Kit/dp/B001FCAXT0/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1AHSRO8FETXYX&dchild=1&keywords=pro-fill+rv+edition+dual+6-volt+battery+watering+system&qid=1609273922&sprefix=pro-fill%2Caps%2C212&sr=8-5)
Pump kit
Amazon.com : Flow-Rite Hydro Link Battery Watering Hand Pump for RV or Golf... (https://www.amazon.com/Flow-Rite-Hydro-Link-Battery-Watering/dp/B01B6EIKDW/ref=sr_1_15?crid=1ZQ360OGYP49T&dchild=1&keywords=flow-rite+battery+watering+system&qid=1609273742&sprefix=flow-rite%2Caps%2C222&sr=8-15)
Larry
Then for me the issue is resolved!
For the short haul I am going to stay with my HPV-22B and lead-acid batteries that are 2 years old in very good shape.
Is there a particular Pro-Fill model that you recommend for the standard 6v-dual battery set up. Looks like the choices are endless.
Much appreciated.
Tony R. (aka codefour0
Tony, I've had your setup for 14 years and never had an issue. Swapped out the original 22 for the 22b in '06. 3 - 85 w solar panels. My 3rd set of batteries are 7 yrs old. Upgraded the Pro-Fill 5 yrs ago.
Chris
Thank you LD wise men and women.
I just ordered the Pro-fill product and pump recommended in the above link by Larry.
Have been filling with a turkey baster - so this will be a treat! :D :D
Cheers!
Tony R. (aka codefour)
I just ordered the Pro-fill product and pump recommended in the above link by Larry.
Have been filling with a turkey baster - so this will be a treat! :D :D
I forgot about the baster and mirror days, you will be happily surprised how easy it is to add water.
Larry
Looks like the choices are endless.
Tony R. (aka codefour0
Yup ..... what ya got here on this forum are folks from all sorts of geographic locations and age groups and with all sort of life goals. And <smile> on top of that not all LD's are the same. They are slow to changes but the Mothership makes changes now and then. What I'm saying is a person maybe giving good advice but it's not appreciable for assorted very good reasons.
The LD has great bones that is why we can customize it. It's a blessing and a curse.
glen
Thanks so much everyone! I really learned a lot in a few short days of posts.
More costly, but worth it to me...I'm going the route of 2 LifeLine AGMs with the SB3000i solar controller, and I feel confident about making this change myself, but if anyone has tips or tricks about this process, I'm all ears.
Last month I installed 6 volt sealed lead acid batteries. I have the multi stage converter, my solar is set for SLA/AGM but my 217 ford E350 charges at a constant 14.4 volts. Is this a little high for sealed SLA ? I don't think there's an adjustment for the engine alternator?
Since we are sort of on the subject, why is this aux out light lit on my solar charge controller? Sometimes it's lit, other times not.
Greg, here's the scoop from the user manual:
"Auxiliary Output LED
Indicates when the auxiliary
output is ON, either charging
an auxiliary battery or
powering a load."
Charles
Thanks, Charles. I'm still trying to get the hang of how the solar works. New technology for me. :o
So, would an auxiliary battery be the LD starter battery?
I've been quiet for this debate but ...<smile> the first question is how long do you plan to keep and use your LD. Once I have that answer I can give my opinion as to the original question.
In the long run lithium is the cheapest upgrade. But if your plan is only for a few years (three or less) then just get the cheapest batteries that will work for you. Then just get a good nights sleep.
glen
Hi Glen. I have no idea how long I'll keep my LD. I've had it 5 years now, and it looks and runs great. I would say, at least, another 3-5 years, but could be 10. Really hard to know...
Eric
So, would an auxiliary battery be the LD starter battery?
Yes, if that is how it is connected. LD does this now and I believe they have done so since they began installing the Solar Boost 3000i.
Charles
Yes, if that is how it is connected. LD does this now and I believe they have done so since they began installing the Solar Boost 3000i.
Charles
Thanks Charles. So, how does one connect an auxiliary battery? Is it basically having a wire that runs from the SB3000i to the starter battery? I just purchased the SB3000i, and now I'm waiting for it to be delivered in about a week, but I'm curious what project is in my future.
Hi Glen. I have no idea how long I'll keep my LD. I've had it 5 years now, and it looks and runs great. I would say, at least, another 3-5 years, but could be 10. Really hard to know...
With proper care, and a willingness to replace parts as they wear, an LD will last for a very long time,
The chassis is a commercial truck, built for many miles of abuse. Repair and replacement parts for the chassis are widely available and will be for many years. Perform the maintenance, add grease fittings to the ball joints and it should be good for 60-80,000 miles before anything major needs work.
The biggest issue is finding a good mechanic to work on them.
The coach is built like a tank, as long as the exterior shell stays watertight, it will stay structurally intact for years.
The qualifier is it needs to have the various seals renewed periodically. Search the archives on "rot" and you should find several examples of what happens if things start leaking. The roof, end caps and windows are the areas to watch.
Larry
Hi Eric; when you add the SB3000i, you need to run a charging wire from the SB3000i secondary output to the chassis battery positive terminal. The ground path is already there. Then you need to enable that output at the 3000i. The instruction manual has that procedure. RonB
Hi Eric; when you add the SB3000i, you need to run a charging wire from the SB3000i secondary output to the chassis battery positive terminal. The ground path is already there. Then you need to enable that output at the 3000i. The instruction manual has that procedure. RonB
Hmm...Thanks RonB! Two follow-up questions:
When you say "The ground path is already there.", what do you mean? Do I just need to concern myself with running one wire from the SB3000i to the chassis positive terminal. Also, what is the best route for wire? Lastly, what gauge wire would be appropriate?
Thank you,
Eric
Hi Eric. Both the house batteries and the chassis battery are connected to 'ground'. More correctly called a common ground, through the steel chassis. You just need to run one wire, the 'hot' lead. At not much more expense or work I would run a ground wire (black) along with the hot +12vdc wire (red) just to insure that both wires would be similar resistances. Limited to just 2 amps or lower, 16 AWG or 18 AWG would work. The choice for routing is up to you. RonB
At not much more expense or work I would run a ground wire (black) along with the hot +12vdc wire (red) just to insure that both wires would be similar resistances. Limited to just 2 amps or lower, 16 AWG or 18 AWG would work. The choice for routing is up to you.
Low-voltage landscape wire is good for long runs like this. It has two wires and a tough outer coating to deal with the elements.
Mid-baths have the disadvantage of not having a good route from the upper kitchen cabinet, where the solar controller is located, to the isolator. There is no easy to access pathway from the upper cabinet to the lower one, needed to run a new wire down and forward to the isolator.
You can take advantage of the vent pipe, in the corner of the countertop, by using it as a conduct.
To run the wire from the upper cabinet to the lower inside the pipe, drill holes the upper and lower cabinet’s sections of the pipe, snake the wire through the newly drilled pipe, from bottom to top, and once done, seal the holes with polyurethane sealant.
The vent pipe isn’t pressurized and, if sealed, shouldn’t cause any problems. This is a tested method. Doing it is the tough part.
Once the wire is pull inside the lower cabinet, it can be run forward, hidden inside the cabinets, to the front wall, forward of the refrigerator.
From there, at floor level, drill a hole in the wall and run the wire forward, under the plastic step into the footwell. Remove the step by firmly pulling it out, it is held in place with reusable spring clips .
LD wiring | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157627666078617/)
Under the step are holes where the wire can exit the interior and then be run under the body, up into the engine bay and to the battery isolator, the terminus of the charging wire.
The wire can alternately, once inside the step well, be run forward, up to and behind the plastic kick panel to the firewall, through an access point in the firewall, and then to the isolator. Your choice. Through the floor is easier, IMO.
Wrap all the exposed wires with a split plastic cover and clamp and/or zip tie it to prevent movement. Copy what you see of the Factory wiring methods.
Larry
"You can take advantage of the vent pipe, in the corner of the countertop, by using it as a conduct."
I did this when I had just bought my midbath. Years later, I began to notice a sewer smell in the kitchen and bathroom. I thought it must be coming from the place where the sewer pipe from the toilet went down through the floor into the black tank, which had been poorly sealed by LD. I cut open my bathroom floor to get access and resealed that penetration, but it didn't help.
I spent months wondering where the increasingly bad smell came from. I was still trying when a friend, looking around under the kitchen sink, noticed that it was coming from the place where the wires entered the vent pipe. The sealant had failed.
In retrospect, it would have been easy for me to run the wires down the outside back of the vent pipe, where they would have been invisible, and through a small hole in the counter*. It wouldn't have been any harder to do, and it would have eliminated the risk of a stinky leak from the sewer vent pipe.
* A right angle drill adapter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NQS465R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) is very useful for this kind of close-quarters work. It's inexpensive, but you will also need hex-shank drill bits, since it doesn't have a Jacobs chuck. You can buy a full set (https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTSMAN-Screwdriver-21-Piece-Titanium-CMAM3211/dp/B07QFSWCGY/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Hex+Shank+Drill+Bit+Set&qid=1610296029&s=hi&sr=1-6), but a small set of stubby bits (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-11402A-Stubby-4-Inch-Change/dp/B07CVQWDMY?pd_rd_w=AasJI&pf_rd_p=20b206aa-95f4-4c0b-9d3e-e0956f8383a3&pf_rd_r=BVGY4GC840WGNTWKN6R3&pd_rd_r=d12c8081-90cc-4747-88ca-589a30638970&pd_rd_wg=fAbk4&pd_rd_i=B07CVQWDMY&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_rp_1_dv_vtp_2_t) is handy when working in tight spaces.
Larry and Andy. Great information about routing a wire from the solar controller to the chassis battery! And thanks to everyone else, as well, for the input thus far with everything related to upgrading the solar controller to the SB3000i. Given the somewhat circuitous routing needed to run the charging wire for the chassis battery, I'm going to save this portion of the project for another day.
I'm sure everyone's input will be helpful to many people choosing to install the SB3000i or another solar controller capable of charging an auxiliary battery.
Many thanks!
Eric
Hi Larry, Andy, and Eric. Not owning a Midbath, I can't quite remember where the present solar controller is mounted. Looking at factory photos, it seems like at the end of the kitchen counter above the electrical distribution/converter (at floor level). Indented into the vinyl pad. I'm sure that, except for some internal blocking, that that wall separating the bathroom is hollow. Removing the present controller (a HPV-22?) should reveal a wiring path down to the floor level. If not already there, a small hole inside the cabinet, where it isn't visible could get wiring down to the floor. It would be easy to extend that wire to the back of the driver seat and under the easily removed step well cover at the drivers left foot. That allows wiring up to inside, under the dash. Then through the fire wall in existing penetrations (reseal carefully). You could access the proper terminal of the diode isolator there, just behind the coolant reservoir, drivers side.
If like my TK, I think there is a wire run inside that step well, and access to the engine bay can be achieved that way. Shorter, and easier, than going through the dash area. RonB
I spent months wondering where the increasingly bad smell came from. I was still trying when a friend, looking around under the kitchen sink, noticed that it was coming from the place where the wires entered the vent pipe. The sealant had failed.
With the vent pipe prepped, by sanding around the holes and then cleaning with solvent, I haveI used 3M 5200 FC to seal the holes and never had a come back, complaining of smell or leaks. I have also used the vent pipes for running wires or cable up to the roof, when an owner will not allow a hole to be drilled, along with use of marine thru-fitting.
The method used is everything.
When running wires through the vent pipe, after the wires are in place, use clamps or zip ties to strap the wire to the outside of the pipe, to prevent movement that could pull on the seal.
Larry
Ron, your location description for the controller is correct.
Thanks Greg. I didn't know LD had moved the monitor panel too. RonB
Today, I took the old flooded lead acid batteries out, and this is a picture of the back wall of the battery compartment. I was expecting to see something I would think is the temperature sensor used with the former HPV-22 Solar Controller. Does anyone see anything that looks like the temperature sensor? I know there was one, because the temperature sensor wires were connected to the appropriate location for them at the former solar controller.
I ordered a new temperature sensor for the SB3000i Solar Controller that I just installed, and my plan is to cut the old temperature sensor out, and connect the new temperature temperature sensor to the wires of the old sensor in order to avoid running wiring through the coach (Thank you, Larry, for that suggestion!).
The picture is a little blurry, but I'd start by looking at the orange wire with the yellowish cap that doesn't look like it goes anywhere.
I can't tell if it really doesn't go anywhere, or it's attached to the terminal on the fuse.
Rich
Sorry about that blurry image. Here's a clearer photo. That orange wire is clearly attached.
Much clearer. The black cylinder sticking down below the fuse looks like the temp probe to me.
Rich
Much clearer. The black cylinder sticking down below the fuse looks like the temp probe to me.
Rich
There’s also what looks like gray wire insulation running under the top red cable on the right hand side. Gray wire probably runs under the breaker and connects to the temperature probe that Rich pointed out.
- John
Rich and John are correct. Mine was mounted differently but the wire was routed similarly.
Charles
While we are on the subject of solar controllers, etc, I would like some advice. RonB told me to replace my solar controller when we were at the Morro Bay GTG a couple of years ago. I have attached a photo of my existing controller, which is on the side panel of the refrigerator cabinet next to the entrance. I also have 2 solar panels, but it looks like this was redone at some time because the holes where the original panel was are quite obvious.
I changed the old trojan 6v batteries to a pair of 12v agm Interstate batteries and, of course, had to change the wiring. The 12v had a 5 year warranty and the 6v had a 1 year. For the very high price, I wanted a longer warranty. My mechanic said that my existing controller would be ok. But....??
I understand that the controller LD uses is a Blue Sky 3000i? Is this the one that you would recommend? And what about a charge wire for the chassis battery? I currently have a Battery Tender charger hooked up the chassis battery when parked behind my office building. Would like to use the existing solar.
Perfect! You were exactly right. That gray wire contained the temperature sensor red & black wires (see picture below). Once I took that busbar off the back, I was able to back the sensor and it's wire free from behind the busbar. Next step was just cutting the old sensor off and stripping the wires.
Now I'm going to cut off the sensor of the new I'm using with the new SB3000i solar controller (sensor shown in the picture below), but before I do, I'm wondering how much wire to leave on the new sensor, because that will be determined by where I put the sensor. I've seen some people state that the best place is inbetween the two batteries; however, the sensor looks like it's intended to be put on one of the terminal posts (positive or negative???). If I place it between the two batteries, it will just be wedged in as the space is only about a quarter of an inch wide (narrower than the "neck" of the sensor).
So where is the best place to leave the sensor?
Appreciate it!
Eric
While we are on the subject of solar controllers, etc, I would like some advice. RonB told me to replace my solar controller when we were at the Morro Bay GTG a couple of years ago. I have attached a photo of my existing controller, which is on the side panel of the refrigerator cabinet next to the entrance. I also have 2 solar panels, but it looks like this was redone at some time because the holes where the original panel was are quite obvious.
I changed the old trojan 6v batteries to a pair of 12v agm Interstate batteries and, of course, had to change the wiring. The 12v had a 5 year warranty and the 6v had a 1 year. For the very high price, I wanted a longer warranty. My mechanic said that my existing controller would be ok. But....??
I understand that the controller LD uses is a Blue Sky 3000i? Is this the one that you would recommend? And what about a charge wire for the chassis battery? I currently have a Battery Tender charger hooked up the chassis battery when parked behind my office building. Would like to use the existing solar.
I'm pretty sure that your current solar controller is not a 3- or 4-stage controller. I think it pre-dates the one I just replaced (the HPV-22), and neither have a float charging (lower) voltage mode (around 13.3 V). Therefore, the charging voltage when your battery is fully charged is too high for the AGM batteries and can damage them prematurely. The Blue Sky 3000i is a 3-stage solar controller with a float voltage mode. To address your other question, it also has the ability to use a wire to charge an auxiliary battery (which, in your case, would be the chassis battery). So far, I haven't elected to do this for the chassis battery as it would require more extensive routing of the wire than I'm prepared to do at this time. I think that addresses all of your questions. Keep in mind that I was not knowledgeable about any of this a week ago, but because of all of the great contributors on this forum, I've learned a lot. If you haven't already, I suggest you read all of the posts in this thread as you seem to be asking very similar questions to what mine have been.
Eric, either location will work OK. If a terminal is used + or - doesn't matter. I went with a terminal but I am sure a difference in temperature, if any, would be insignificant to the controller.
Charles
I'm pretty sure that your current solar controller is not a 3- or 4-stage controller. I think it pre-dates the one I just replaced (the HPV-22), and neither have a float charging (lower) voltage mode (around 13.3 V). Therefore, the charging voltage when your battery is fully charged is too high for the AGM batteries and can damage them prematurely. The Blue Sky 3000i is a 3-stage solar controller with a float voltage mode. To address your other question, it also has the ability to use a wire to charge an auxiliary battery (which, in your case, would be the chassis battery). So far, I haven't elected to do this for the chassis battery as it would require more extensive routing of the wire than I'm prepared to do at this time. I think that addresses all of your questions. Keep in mind that I was not knowledgeable about any of this a week ago, but because of all of the great contributors on this forum, I've learned a lot. If you haven't already, I suggest you read all of the posts in this thread as you seem to be asking very similar questions to what mine have been.
On second thought, maybe yours is 3-stage. I see the word "float" on the display panel. That's what I get for trying to share new-found knowledge.