I was wondering about the aluminum roof and walking on it to look for possible issues. what's under it I'm a big guy 265lbs would there be a problem ?
My manual says it’s plywood underneath and safe to walk on. It doesn’t specify a weight limit though so hopefully someone more knowledgeable will comment.
Never heard of anyone having a problem. It's a plywood underlay. Now if you are looking at an ancient LD, possibly there could be roof rot. But, that would be unusual.
Thank you , just don’t wan to put any dents in it(if I ever find one to check out) .
Still on the hunt .
When I first got mine in 2008, I was 340 lbs. I am now 280. I have been on my roof lots of times.
Ken F in NM
When I first got mine in 2008, I was 340 lbs. I am now 280. I have been on my roof lots of times.
Ken F in NM
Did you use the attached ladder?
Yep.
Ken F in NM
Did you use the attached ladder?
As we age it is helpful (and safer) to have a step ladder adjacent to the LD ladder, especially when descending.
Chris
"As we age it is helpful (and safer) to have a step ladder adjacent to the LD ladder, especially when descending."
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An auxiliary ladder also allows the climber to get past the gravity-defying outward bend in the rig's ladder. I use an 8' ladder to get up past the bend, then step onto the rig's ladder to go the rest of the way.
Joan, where do you stow your 8 foot ladder?
Going up is not as bad, for me, as coming down. It's finding the step and getting both feet in before slowly cautiously shifting my weight to my feet. I am replacing a vent fan and have had to transit the ladder several times this week. A forklift would be nice to have, just walk off it to the roof.
I have a 4-foot folding ladder that I store in the rear driver's side bin in case I need it while on the road,
Sullyboy61
Walking on the roof is fine but it is better if you try to step on the joists in the roof rather than in between them - the joists are just stronger support. If I remember right it actually said that in our manual. On ours you can feel a tiny bit of give if you are between joists which could help you find the joists. So no problem if you are between joists (unless there is big rot problems).
You can see where the joists are (at least in older LDs) by looking for the fastener (nail or maybe screws in newer models) in the ceiling (looking from the inside) and going in a line from side to side of the LD.
There is framing around each vent/air conditioner/hatch and on either side of those in ours where the joists go across the roof. We also have one at the side of our fridge (the non wardrobe side).
We use a heavy duty ladder (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Gorilla-Ladders-14-ft-Reach-MPXA-Aluminum-Multi-Position-Ladder-with-300-lbs-Load-Capacity-Type-IA-Duty-Rating-GLMPXA-14/310731754) to climb on the roof.
I am like Don, not fond of heights (even 10 '), give me crawl space or an attic instead. It is the transition that I am careful of, the same as Don, and we have a rule one person can't go up on the roof by themselves unless someone else is around (just in case). Scott does the transition fine (going up he turns and sits on the roof with his legs hanging over the edge then swings his feet onto the roof - I am not that comfortable doing that (I climb onto the LD on my knees looking away from the edge :D ).
Jane
"where do you stow your 8 foot ladder?"
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Next to the fence at the house! ;)
"where do you stow your 8 foot ladder?"
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Next to the fence at the house! ;)
Oh, so you don’t carry it with you?
BTW, when I read through the manual I didn’t see any reference to walking on the joists but that’s not a bad idea if you can find them.
Walking on the roof is fine but it is better if you try to step on the joists in the roof rather than in between them - the joists are just stronger support. If I remember right it actually said that in our manual. On ours you can feel a tiny bit of give if you are between joists which could help you find the joists. So no problem if you are between joists (unless there is big rot problems).
.
There is framing around each vent/air conditioner/hatch and on either side of those in ours where the joists go across the roof. We also have one at the side of our fridge (the non wardrobe side).
I mark the roof joists, on the roof, with strips of 2" wide 3M Safety Walk tape and try to always step on the high-friction tape.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-2-in-x-15-ft-Safety-Walk-Step-and-Ladder-Tread-Tape-7635NA/100132176
I have been on top of dozens of LDs, hundreds of times and have never felt like it causes damage. Our 2003 LD's roof gets walk on regularly, while loading or unloading the kayaks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1154/1416467930_f070140db5_w.jpg)
Larry
I mark the roof joists, on the roof, with strips of 2" wide 3M Safety Walk tape and try to always step on the high-friction tape.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-2-in-x-15-ft-Safety-Walk-Step-and-Ladder-Tread-Tape-7635NA/100132176
I have been on top of dozens of LDs, hundreds of times and have never felt like it causes damage. Our 2003 LD's roof gets walk on regularly, while loading or unloading the kayaks.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1154/1416467930_f070140db5_w.jpg)
Larry
Hi Larry
What is the sealant around the antenna? Would you put tape over that?
Thank you,Denis
What is the sealant around the antenna? Would you put tape over that?
The sealant shown is the original polyurethane. I would not cover it with Eternabond Tape, it will not stick.
When aged, the Factory sealant can be cleaned and then top-coated with either Dicor or a polyurethane.
Larry
I have used the bunk ladder to make up the difference between ground and the start of the exterior ladder. Though at home I have a ladder that sticks up above the roof. I use pipe insulation to protect the paint from the hard edge.
The sealant shown is the original polyurethane. I would not cover it with Eternabond Tape, it will not stick.
When aged, the Factory sealant can be cleaned and then top-coated with either Dicor or a polyurethane.
Larry
when the factory sealant is aged will it crack ? and when or if removing would would a heat gun be helpful? or is it cleaned with a solvent?
Denis
For my first 5 years or so, I simply used the fixed ladder. I then acquired a 5' step ladder. I now lean the folded step ladder against the fixed ladder, easing the load on my hands when going up and down. Traveling, the step ladder is attached to the fixed ladder. I use a device I found on line for holding a ladder. That is mounted fairly high on the fixed ladder. The lower part of the ladder is then tied VERY FIRMLY (and I am good with knots) to the fixed ladder. Seven years that way, and no problems yet.
Ken F in NM
Is there any problem with just using the bumper to step up? I noticed there is some nonskid on the bumper and assumed that is the reason why it’s there.
I said we carried a 4-foot ladder. That is not quite true. The over length is 4'3", but the third step is only 2 feet. It fits in the driver side rear bin of a MB.
It is a Leifheit ladder. We bought it at The Container Store crossing from Montclair to Alabama back in 2007.
It's still available from them. Amazon has a variety of like ladders.
HiLola, no problem with stepping on the bumper. Still, the lower part of the fixed ladder is tilted backward. That puts a strain on one's hands and arms. Up to around 2015, I could handle that strain with a sense of certainty. Not today. So. I use my step ladder to get me up to the point where the fixed ladder is tilting away from me. That takes the strain off my hands. But for most, there is nothing wrong with stepping on the bumper. As you suspected, that is why the anti-skid material is there.
Ken F in NM
Is there any problem with just using the bumper to step up? I noticed there is some nonskid on the bumper and assumed that is the reason why it’s there.
I use the bumper as my first step, the nonslip adds a layer of safety.
Larry
when the factory sealant is aged will it crack ? and when or if removing would a heat gun be helpful? or is it cleaned with a solvent?
The sealant you see does little, the true seal is between the object (vent, antenna, etc) and the roof which can only be replaced by removal, cleaning and reapplication of sealant. The Factory installations rarely fail and leak unless the object sealed, such as a vent, is cracked or broken in some way.
It is not necessary to remove the old sealant unless the vent or ? is being replaced. Top coating the old sealant is all most need to do.
The roof seams should be sealed when the Factory sealant starts shrinking. The main source of leakage in newer LDs is in the rear wall, caused by leaking end caps or rear window,.
Larry
I said we carried a 4-foot ladder. That is not quite true. The over length is 4'3", but the third step is only 2 feet. It fits in the driver side rear bin of a MB.
It is a Leifheit ladder. We bought it at The Container Store crossing from Montclair to Alabama back in 2007.
It's still available from them. Amazon has a variety of like ladders.
I like the high grab handle, Don. I bought something similar at Walmart the first night after my purchase of Bossa Nova.
The sealant you see does little, the true seal is between the object (vent, antenna, etc) and the roof which can only be replaced by removal, cleaning and reapplication of sealant. The Factory installations rarely fail and leak unless the object sealed, such as a vent, is cracked or broken in some way.
It is not necessary to remove the old sealant unless the vent or ? is being replaced. Top coating the old sealant is all most need to do.
The roof seams should be sealed when the Factory sealant starts shrinking. The main source of leakage in newer LDs is in the rear wall, caused by leaking end caps or rear window,.
Hi Larry
Thank you for the information ,the LD I’m looking at I’ve only seen pictures and noticed the antenna and escape hatch is sealed similar to the picture you posted but other seams look like it’s the instabond tape.
Thanks ,Denis
Thank you for the information,the LD I'm looking at I've only seen pictures and noticed the antenna and escape hatch is sealed similar to the picture you posted but other seams look like it's the instabond tape.
Thanks, Denis
Eternabond Tape is normally only used on the roof seams, using a tape wide enough to cover the original sealant and extend past the edges of the seam by an inch or more.
The tape will not stick to the existing sealant permanently, covering the sealant on vents and antennas with the tape is a waste of time and material. Use Dicor or polyurethane instead.
Larry
Is there any problem with just using the bumper to step up? I noticed there is some nonskid on the bumper and assumed that is the reason why it’s there.
no, but my legs don't do that step. Even when I was young and studly, of course I could just pull myself all the way to the roof using the sketchiest of finger holds. ya that's my story and I sticking with it.
This is the spare ladder we keep in our LD,
Amazon.com: Hihone 12.5FT Telescoping Ladder, Quick Button Retraction Slow... (https://www.amazon.com/Hihone-Telescoping-Retraction-Lightweight-Collapsible/dp/B08B149MJD/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=collapsible+ladder&qid=1607882754&sr=8-8)
It fits in the driver's side rear storage bin. It is useful for reaching anything on the sides of the RV. Long enough to access the roof without using the rear ladder. We do use the rear ladder but we use a step stool like Don's at home to bypass the bumper step.
Theresa