I went out behind my office building this morning and when I walked by my LD I could hear something running. It was the heater outlet blowing hot air. The last time I was in the LD was a week ago and I had turned on the heater, so thought that I had left it on. I went inside and the thermostat was totally off, in the far left position. So I moved the thermostat over to the right and back to the off position and waited, but the heater kept running. So went outside on turned off the propane and the heater shut off and fan stopped running after a few minutes. So I turned propane back on and went inside to cycle the thermostat. The heater remained off and when I moved the lever over I could hear a solenoid click and the heater came back on. This time when I moved lever to left the heater did turn on and finally fan shut off.
I dont know how long the heater had been running, but the coach was warm, not hot, and outside temp was 40F. The propane tank was at 2/3 full so it couldnt have been too long. In any case after searching the records on the forum, it seems like a lot of folks have put in new digital thermostats. Are there any recommendations?
My mechanical thermostat, older, about 1999, and a different model, slides a thin wedge shaped piece of plastic between the contacts when placed in the 'OFF' position. Those red and white wires are the only communication between the thermostat and the heater. So a malfunction is either the thermostat wasn't truly in the open (off) position; the wires, a twisted pair, have a short somewhere; or the heater internal relay, inside the heater, stuck in the closed position.
I don't totally trust electronic thermostats. My house one kept the A/C running. Changed the batteries, still running...unplugged from baseplate attached to wall, stopped. Plugged back in with no batteries and A/C running again. Banged the entire thermostat on the counter, to dislodge the mechanical relay contacts, that must have stuck together, and it has been running fine for months. (New spare thermostat stored in garage next to heater/AC). So that can happen to fancy thermostats too. (It was only a few years old, minimal use)
A friends MB, I replaced his messed up electronic with a new mechanical thermostat. Home Depot had it. Works fine. https://www.homedepot.com/p/White-Rodgers-M30-Heat-Only-Non-Programmable-Thermostat-M30/204804203#product-overview
Now if you want a digital display, backlight etc, then others will have recommendations. RonB
Anything simple will do.
On my Mid-bath, I had limited space because the thermostat is mounted next to a magazine rack. Choices were limited and I ended up with a slider switch on the side that is a little hard to reach.
In an area like mine, where heat pumps are very common, most (all?) thermostats at the big box store will also control A/C. It's no problem to ignore that part of the system and just wire up the heater.
I think this is the successor to the model I purchased:
TH1110DV1009 - Honeywell TH1110DV1009 - PRO 1000 Non-Programmable, 1H/1C,... (https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-TH1110DV1009-PRO-1000-Non-Programmable-1H-1C-Vertical-Thermostat?gclid=CjwKCAiAnvj9BRA4EiwAuUMDf7z-VwUcWrklTmuCSxj0zhuRZyin8rVp6sJyvBxO_LQ8Ow7V12vWTBoCkIIQAvD_BwE)
There is a similar heater-only model:
TH1100DV1000 - Honeywell TH1100DV1000 - PRO 1000 Non-Programmable, Heat... (https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-TH1100DV1000-PRO-1000-Non-Programmable-Heat-Only-Vertical-Thermostat)
Rich
Rich, a little guessing here. You found the inside to be warm but not hot. That suggests to me that the temperature portion was working. Sliding the control all the way left, when it resists a bit, that is the lowest temperature setting. To turn it off, you need to slide it past that spot until it snaps or clicks (by feel, not by sound) into the off position. I assume that you did that.
Mechanically, there are two key elements. The top control is the off-on and temperature adjustment. As Ron said, if that control is truly in the off position there is a short somewhere. My bet would be that it is in the copper strip between the red and yellow wires. A short between the red and white would have the furnace running constantly, and it would have been hot inside, not warm. The second element is below the tan circle, under the translucent plastic cover. That is where the contacts for the temperature adjustment are. It sounds like that part is fine.
My suggestion is, before replacing, look for something that might have gotten into that copper strip to somehow bridge or short from the red wire to the copper strip. If you see no deformation, nothing there that could short it out, replace the unit with a simple mechanical thermostat. Why try to fix rather than replace? The better you know your equipment, the less likely you are to have a problem that you can't handle while out in the middle of nowhere. If you can fix it, you know your equipment better. If you break it, nothing lost. You need to replace it, which is where you are right now.
Ken F in NM
"Sliding the control all the way left, when it resists a bit, that is the lowest temperature setting. To turn it off, you need to slide it past that spot until it snaps or clicks (by feel, not by sound) into the off position."
----
When I read Rich's (parussky) post, I wondered if the control had been "snapped" into the OFF position or just pushed to the far left; I started to post this question, but got sidetracked. Thanks, Ken, for the reminder that the thermostat needs to be "clicked off to be off"! ;)
A few more details on that left picture that Parussky provided. The copper bar at the top attached to the red wire (note R mark) is above the underneath copper contact where the yellow wire is attached. They are connected where that dimple is in the top piece. The temperature adjust lever probably has that plastic wedge, and separates the circuit when turned off so no current can flow. The yellow wire goes to the fixed contact on the left at the bottom inside that translucent cover. The white wire comes into the slider on the brown disc. The shiny mark at about 11:00 is where it has spent the most time. That device is called an anticipator. The circle is an adjustable resistor. It powers an electric heater placed next to the temperature coil, a spring made of bimetal that uncoils when hot and shrinks back when cold. The temperature set lever is attached to this bimetal device and the whole thing rotates back and forth. The other end of this coil has the movable contact on it, that turns the heater on and off. These contacts are hard to see through the translucent cover at bottom. Heat in the room operates that spring, but to avoid overheating each cycle, some current flows through the anticipator heater and by expanding the thermal sensor spring, opens the contact early. Sometimes this is called the hysteresis control. These covered contacts at the bottom are coated with precious metal. They can be cleaned with alcohol if needed. Gently to not affect the alignment.
The anticipator rotating contact can adjust the cycle time. Presently set for slowest response, clockwise for rapid response. It can cause rapid on/off cycles if set too far clockwise, and too many degrees between cycles if it is too far counter clockwise. (picture: Heater Thermostat (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=35796.msg224325;mentionread;mark=read;EGoOxkT=5v6pub5Jp0HO53uuNox1DpqA2AUgW78E;item=93335#gallery_224312-1)
Sometimes people have trouble when the heater won't come on. A small piece of rough paper slid between the two copper bars (maybe some windex to wet it) can clean that area to make a better connection. Hope that helps understand what these parts all do. RonB
"A small piece of rough paper slid between the two copper bars can clean that area..."
Try a new crisp $ bill! Any denomination will work but the higher the denomination the better the job. ;) Kidding of course!
I installed the same heat only Honeywell as Rich referenced about a year ago and it is working just fine for me too.
Matt
Thanks Rich, that was a nice looking thermostat that would fit well. But I'm used to the old one for now, pretty simple. RonB
I think mine has an on/off switch.
If I may ...... got to love it. As mother always said you get wisdom by learning from experience.
Furnace Issue (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29709.msg168135#msg168135)
glen
You know, we have seen a LOT of posts about furnaces that would not start or would not heat. I think this thread is the first one about a furnace that would not turn off.
Ken F in NM
We put in a programmable one years ago Honeywell programmable thermostat (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Honeywell-Home-5-2-Day-Programmable-Thermostat-with-Digital-Backlit-Display-RTH2300B/203539496) because we wanted that feature (old mechanical original one still worked fine). We just grabbed what our big box store had in stock, it has worked fine and similar to ones we have used in houses. We ignore the Air Conditioning part of this.
At least you were not the first to find out that it is absolutely necessary to slide the heater switch completely to the left. Until you feel it click.
Confession. I did it when we first got our LD. Bong!
Cheers!
Tony R (aka codefour)
I just discovered my OEM furnace thermostat has the "broken triangle" problem (see this thread from 4 years ago Furnace Issue (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29709.msg168135#msg168135) ). You can see the triangle stuck in the grease. if you look carefully. Would like to upgrade to a digital unit (heat only). Any other suggestions for a replacement that uses the same wires as original?
Would this problem keep the furnace from not turning on at all? Tried to start it this morning and nada.
"Would this problem keep the furnace from not turning on at all? Tried to start it this morning and nada."
In your photos it appears that the triangular tab is clear of the copper contacts on the left. If so, it could not be preventing the furnace from turning on. However, if those contacts are dirty or oxidized, that could prevent the furnace from turning on. You can test for this by bridging the red wire at top left and the yellow wire coming off the lower copper contact, with the thermostat set to its highest setting.
Oxidation is also possible at the thermostat contacts, which are under the translucent plastic cover at the bottom of the unit. I'd suggest cleaning both sets of contacts.
Now the question is: can that triangular tab be repaired? Give its flimsy construction, I can't think of a good way offhand, so a new thermostat may be the best long-term solution. In the short run, if you want to prevent accidental furnace startups, you can cut a strip from a plastic milk carton and slip it in between the copper contacts.
It occurs to me that even cheap ten-dollar earbuds have gold-plated contacts on their plugs, to prevent corrosion. If they can afford to do that, why can't thermostat makers? I guess they just figure that nobody will notice, since unlike with earbuds, the thermostat's contacts are hidden inside. The user won't see them... until the thing stops working. Grrr.
"Would this problem keep the furnace from not turning on at all? Tried to start it this morning and nada."
Now the question is: can that triangular tab be repaired? Give its flimsy construction, I can't think of a good way offhand, so a new thermostat may be the best long-term solution. In the short run, if you want to prevent accidental furnace startups, you can cut a strip from a plastic milk carton and slip it in between the copper contacts.
Thanks, Andy. I’ll try “jump starting” it to see what happens. I did pull the fuse so it shouldn’t start up on its own correct? Which raises another question for this electrical dummy: when I reinstall the furnace fuse, do I need to disconnect the house batteries first?
I am going to replace the thermostat, hopefully with a digital version. My understanding is that “heat only” thermostats only have two wires to connect, correct?
Hi Greg,
When you say the furnace wouldn’t start, I would like to know if you heard the furnace fan start when you moved the white thermostat switch to the right (from off). If so did the fan turn off shortly after starting and the furnace would not light producing heat through the vents?
If the fan did start then turn off, you may want to insure that the propane tank valve was turned on. I had this issue two weeks ago and found that I had not turned on the propane. Even though my fridge lit as did my stove top once the house lines were purged of gas everything shut down and the furnace would not light and it’s fan turned off.
Just a thought.
Kent
Greg,
I didn't like the factory Suburban thermostat because of the wild temp swings and no exact settings, only warmer and colder. I replaced it with Amazon.com: Emerson 1E78-140 Non-Programmable Heat Only Thermostat for... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00204WWGE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and I'm totally satisfied. Digital with setting temp and current temp.
Kent, no fan didn’t come on either. No response at all.
Linda, thanks for the link!
More info: Went back out and reinstalled the 10 amp fuse. The fan motor started immediately. I then put a piece of plastic in between the contacts, as Andy suggested, and the fan stopped a few minutes later. I then tried to jump start it with no effect. I think I was doing it correctly but nothing happened so I think the contacts are not dirty. I went outside and turned the propane on and turned the thermostat on all the way and the blower and heater started up as normal. Re-checked it and seemed normal again. So other than the thermostat not turning off without putting a piece of plastic between the contacts, it seems to be operating properly. Next step is to replace the thermostat and retest everything. Will give an update after the new thermostat is installed.
Thanks all for your help!
That digital model that Linda suggested looks good. It has what one needs, and nothing more. Setting and current temperature are both displayed, there are just two buttons and an on/off switch, and there are no bells and whistles. No clock, no menus, no programmability, no complications. Sometimes simple is best. ;-)
I ordered a similar version from Amazon, one that Rich mentioned earlier in this thread:
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-TH1110DV1009-PRO-1000-Non-Programmable-1H-1C-Vertical-Thermostat?gclid=CjwKCAiAnvj9BRA4EiwAuUMDf7z-VwUcWrklTmuCSxj0zhuRZyin8rVp6sJyvBxO_LQ8Ow7V12vWTBoCkIIQAvD_BwE
Also, going to go to Home Depot tomorrow and see what they have. I agree, the simpler the better in this case! Hopefully it’s an easy install.
I've been looking at this model because aesthetically I link it would look nice in our RV while still maintaining the simplicity. Has anyone purchased this one? The only reason I am hesitant is because its supposed to switch between heat and cooling automatically. Since I would have it set up on just two wires for heat only I would think it would be ok. It also seems I would have to go through the menu system to turn it off...I don't see a physical switch. I REALLY wish I could find a nice looking black digital thermostat so it matched the right of the controls on the wall! ;D
Honeywell Home RTH5160D1003 Non-programmable Thermostat, White - - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/Honeywell-RTH5160D1003-Non-programmable-Thermostat/dp/B079Q5MKHQ/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&keywords=heat+only+thermostat&qid=1616417360&sr=8-15)
Another consideration is that the thermostats Linda and Rich linked to are vertical oriented, the same as the factory OEM unit.
Just a thought, some of these thermostats require 24 volts to operate. The battery in some cases is to retain the memory.
Jon
Just a thought, some of these thermostats require 24 volts to operate. The battery in some cases is to retain the memory.
Jon
The Amazon page for the Honeywell Thermostat includes a link at the bottom to the installation manual. It states the batteries are required for operation, but not to retain memory. It should work in an RV.
Steve
Years ago I got tired of the temperature swings the old thermostat provided. So I replaced it with a White-Rodgers e78-151 series 70 from Amazon; yes it is a programmable thermostat. On Amazon the thermostat has Emerson on the face of the thermostat.
I picked this one because it is a verticle unit and fit very well where the old thermostat was (next to the magazine rack) and I wanted one that was programmable because we were used to a low temp setting during the night but wanted to warm things up a bit before getting out of the bed. I ABSOLUTELY would buy the same unit again. I think it is $35.50 Prime now. Ignore the part about it being for cooling too..
I think my friend Chris H also installed a programmable before I did. If he and I can do it, Greg should be able to also. And no, I didn't use a torque screw driver! :D
Good luck,
Steve K
I thought about installing a programmable thermostat in my Lazy Daze. When I was working a 9 to 5 job and living in a condo, I had one, and it worked fine since I was on a fixed schedule.
But whether vacationing or full-timing, in an RV I never know when I'm going to feel like getting up, so having a thermostat come on at a set time every day wouldn't be very helpful for me.
I took a different approach: I wired a toggle switch in parallel with the thermostat, and installed the switch at the head of the bed. That way when I woke up, no matter when, I could flip the switch and let the furnace warm up the rig before I got up. :-)
Our 98~MB thermostat has a separate switch to turn on and off the system. What I am wondering is if anyone has come up with a furnace that works in the same spot as the suburban that comes from the factory that is quieter? This is the loudest RV furnace we have herd!
Karen~Liam
98 ~MB
NinA
Our 98~MB thermostat has a separate switch to turn on and off the system. What I am wondering is if anyone has come up with a furnace that works in the same spot as the suburban that comes from the factory that is quieter? This is the loudest RV furnace we have herd!
Karen~Liam
98 ~MB
NinA
Plumb in a catalytic heater and you won't have to use the Suburban heater except maybe for a quick warm up.
Chris
I second Chris's suggestion. Unless you're in a really cold location (in which case, hey! Head south! :-), a catalytic heater such as a Wave 3 or Wave 6 can do a lot of the work that the noisy, propane-hungry, electricity-gobbling furnace does--and do it quietly and efficiently. On cold mornings I'll often run the furnace for ten or fifteen minutes to take the chill off, then let the catalytic heater silently keep things comfortable for the rest of the day.
A catalytic heater is definitely not a substitute for a furnace... but it can be a very useful adjunct.
Our 98~MB thermostat has a separate switch to turn on and off the system. What I am wondering is if anyone has come up with a furnace that works in the same spot as the suburban that comes from the factory that is quieter? This is the loudest RV furnace we have heard!
The noise is one reason why so many install a catalytic heater. For winter use, our 2003 FL has two Wave 3s, one for each end of the coach, together, they will keep the interior warm in single-digit temps. Feline cats need to be watched around catalytic heaters, they want to get very close to the heater. Does anyone know the flashpoint of cat fur?
Bath catalytic heater | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157602104740401/)
Cat heater in lounge | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157602095131438/)
When camping in low daytime temps, the bathroom's permanently-mounted cat heater can be left on all day.
Since we don't heat the interior at night, the bunk's furnace switch is very appreciated on frosty mornings.
Larry
The permanently mounted heater in the bath for rear bath models is nice but don’t think you could do it in a MB or TK due to space considerations.
The permanently mounted heater in the bath for rear bath models is nice but don’t think you could do it in a MB or TK due to space considerations.
A rear wall mounted cat heater only works easily in the Front Lounge models, Rear Bath models can be done but the propane line run is difficult.
Larry
We have a Cat 6 which is temporally connected to a portable tank which we move around to test it out. We don't use it when we go to sleep. That's when we use the installed Suburban rocket furnace. We plan to plumb in a quick disconnect probably in the stove area for the cat heater setup. We have been testing the cat and like it but still don't have enough confidence to run it when we are asleep. We are Ski camping more and more now which usually means COLD temperatures and snow storms, the best for Powder skiing. If we can plug-in, the furnace stays off but in spring when we go looking for snow there is usually no plug-ins and thus the rocket furnace, after the third day you kinda of get use to it. In this last year I have changed out a furnace in our old itaska and added a new furnace in our son's tiniHouse, both of those are quiet. I was just wondering if anyone had come up with a propane system solution other then adding a cat heater?
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
I believe the reason for the high noise level of the furnace is primarily the location of the forced air intake. Changing that for a remote duct-coupled intake would solve the problem but the efficiency of LD packaging makes that unlikely. Perhaps a furnace with the fan path further away from the intake would be quieter.
Steve
Thanks Steve, I am wondering if adding and additional ducked air output port might offer better balance? I do not remember if there is an additional knock-out located in the right place on unit for forced air to exit into the house with ducting? I have installed two furnaces this past year both of around the same Btu output which had many more knock-outs on all sides. The importance is maintaining the proper balance between the fresh air intake and the the ducked heated air output.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
"I was just wondering if anyone had come up with a propane system solution other then adding a cat heater?"
Sure, although it's not as affordable or as easy to install.
In my 27' Airstream, I installed a Dickinson P12000 (https://www.suremarineservice.com/Heat/Propane-Fireplaces/00-NEW-P12000.html) wall fireplace. (They also offer a smaller P9000 model.)
The pluses: the P12000 generates 5,500 BTU--about the same as a Wave 6--but it spreads the heat around much more efficiently, because it has a very quiet fan (adjustable speed; draws less than an amp on high) that pushes out the hot air. It requires no venting, because it's a sealed box: its coaxial stovepipe brings in outside air, warming it as it's drawn in, and exhausts flue gases. It's quite efficient: one pound of propane will run it for 4 hours on high or 5.5 hours on low. It's entirely made of stainless steel (this is a marine product), and is so well designed that the outside case and even the top stay touchable. Only the door gets too hot to touch.
The minuses: it costs almost $900, and you have to cut a hole in your roof for the stovepipe, which limits where you can install it. (In a midbath, I'd put it on the angled wall outside the bathroom.) Still, if you have a good place for it, and it fits your budget, it's a big improvement in comfort over a catalytic heater.
About ducting: for what it's worth, my 27' Airstream has the same Suburban furnace as my Lazy Daze did, but it's way quieter, because Airstream ran ducts to several outlets. The intake is slightly recessed, but not all that different from the LD's. So I'm guessing that the LD furnace's noise level is mostly due to lack of ducting on the output side.
(Likewise, the Airstream's air conditioner is much quieter, because Airstream raised the roof a few inches to permit ceiling ducts.)
Thanks for the suggestion Andy.
I am familiar with that kind of marine gas heater, several of my friends have sailboats and we have spent some time enjoying the quiet heat and visual flame they provide. I will look at the installation manual for the suburban in our LD and see if there is an adjustment I can make but seems that I went through this already when we first got our 98~MB and heard the Jet furnace!
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
I will look at the installation manual for the suburban in our LD and see if there is an adjustment I can make but seems that I went through this already when we first got our 98~MB and heard the Jet furnace!
A Dickinson Newport is pricey but it fits your frequent snow/ski trips, camping without electrical hookups. The low battery power and propane usage allow 24-hour a day operation. The fan will spread the heat throughout the coach and isn't the danger to NinAt as a Wave heater is.
The furnace should be kept for extremely cold conditions, something that happens regularly in ski areas.
The driverside wall, between the bath and rear lounge, is a good spot to locate it in an MB, unless you have an added pantry.
Check out your local marinas where you will see this type of heater used in many smaller boats. The water is cold in the PNW.
Larry
This is the one I bought in January 2017. I am satisfied with its simplicity, with digital setting which provides repeatability. I replaced the batteries once so far.
Honeywell TH1100DV1000 Nonprogrammable Heat Only Thermostat, White by Supply House Market Place Learn more: Honeywell TH1100DV1000 Nonprogrammable Heat Only Thermostat, White - -... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6ARNXO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_GRSECXAMKE60PAAVW8M8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Ditto from me on the Honeywell TH1100. Installed two years ago and has worked great so far. I am still on first battery.
Matt
Ditto from me on the Honeywell TH1100. Installed two years ago and has worked great so far. I am still on first battery.
Good to hear regarding the Honeywell. That’s the one I ordered from Amazon and should be getting it in the next day or so.
Thanks Larry and yes the water is cold up here in the PNW, good heat in a boat can make all the difference!
I seem to remember someone else on LDO reporting that they installed a Dickinson Newport heater in there MB on the angled lounge side of the shower wall and said that it worked well. I wonder how well the heat will reach the rest of the coach, you may want to run a Wave 3 or 6 in that part? We may consider the Dickinson Newport for the living room part of our Son's tiniHouse in place of a wood stove. Currently the titnHouse has a RV gas furnace that is quiet.
I do like the simplicity of a mechanical thermostat but true are those wide temperature swings when using one. We are trying to use the furnace as backup and quick heat-up so the original works fine.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
I’d be curious to know how one securely attaches something that weighs as much as that heater must weigh to the thin paneling on the angled wall?
- the devil is in the details!
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
A Wave 3 weighs six pounds. That's not a lot. If I were doing this, I'd first mount a piece of 1/2" plywood to that wall, using as many screws and/or wall anchors as I felt necessary, and then mount the Wave 3 to the plywood (it takes three screws to do that).
Thanks for that, Andy. I was actually referring to the Dickinson model that you have. How much does it weigh?
Oh sorry, I misunderstood. The 5,500-BTU P12000 weighs 22 pounds. Full specs are on this page (https://www.suremarineservice.com/Heat/Propane-Fireplaces/00-NEW-P12000.html). The smaller 4,500-BTU P9000 model (https://www.suremarineservice.com/Heat/Propane-Fireplaces/00-NEW-P9000.html) weighs 15 pounds.
Just installed the Honeywell heat only thermostat. Install was pretty simple but there are a couple differences between the old Suburban unit and the new one. For starters the the Honeywell is white and the Suburban is black but that’s a minor detail in my view as the benefits far outweigh that difference. The orientation of the base plate screws are different between the two models so you have to drill new holes. I was able to cover up the old holes with the new base plate. Tested it out and it works so much better than the Suburban mechanical thermostat. It’s nice to know that when you switch it off, it’s off, and that you can adjust the temperature to an exact setting instead of guessing as we had to do with the old thermostat. Makes me glad that the old one broke and gave me an excuse to upgrade. Very simple but effective upgrade that anyone can make!
Edit: for some reason my photos are pixelated, don’t know why.
Edit #2: Just a note that the two wires connect to the baseplate, not the thermostat. Forgot to get a photo of that.
"for some reason my photos are pixelated"
It's happened to me as well in the recent past, but only intermittently. When I re-uploaded the image in question, the blocky artifacts didn't recur, so you could try that. Meanwhile, Steve is working on tracking down the problem.
Thanks, Andy. Let me try uploading a different photo of the size difference between the two units. They are essentially the same width but, as you can see, the Honeywell is about two inches longer.
Your new upload came through OK. The unpredictability of this problem makes it hard to troubleshoot. If you look at reply #32, earlier in this thread, you'll see two versions of exactly the same photo, uploaded exactly the same way--one with blocky artifacts, the other without. What made the difference? I dunno. But again, our hard-working moderators are trying to figure it out.
Getting ready to do this upgrade as well. I assume the baseplate is labeled fairly easily? Red to red and white to white? No way to screw it up right? :D
Just installed the Honeywell heat only thermostat. Install was pretty simple but there are a couple differences between the old Suburban unit and the new one. For starters the the Honeywell is white and the Suburban is black but that’s a minor detail in my view as the benefits far outweigh that difference. The orientation of the base plate screws are different between the two models so you have to drill new holes. I was able to cover up the old holes with the new base plate. Tested it out and it works so much better than the Suburban mechanical thermostat. It’s nice to know that when you switch it off, it’s off, and that you can adjust the temperature to an exact setting instead of guessing as we had to do with the old thermostat. Makes me glad that the old one broke and gave me an excuse to upgrade. Very simple but effective upgrade that anyone can make!
Edit: for some reason my photos are pixelated, don’t know why.
Edit #2: Just a note that the two wires connect to the baseplate, not the thermostat. Forgot to get a photo of that.
Getting ready to do this upgrade as well. I assume the baseplate is labeled fairly easily? Red to red and white to white? No way to screw it up right? :D
Trust me, if I can do it, anyone can! ;)
Yup simple install but unfortunately couldn’t cover both holes due to the wiring hole location and where they come through. I put a screw back in it’s place instead of a bare screw hole 🤷. A great upgrade but sure wish it was black to match the rest of the electronics.
Joe, mine just barely covered the old thermostat. Perhaps yours is a bit larger? If you really want it black, you might try painting it with some spray paint for plastic. I believe Krylon makes some. In my case, I might try and find a white cover for the Dometic AC/HP controller. That's the only other component on that wall.
I installed my new heat thermostat today and my dad “Lazy Bones” just sat and watched me. Removed old and installed new in less than 15 minutes 😊
Looks awesome!
Just installed the Emerson today. Love it!
Just installed the Honeywell this week, also love it! Install super easy 😁
Honeywell TH1100DV1000 Nonprogrammable Heat Only Thermostat, White
Honeywell TH1100DV1000 Nonprogrammable Heat Only Thermostat, White - -... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H6ARNXO/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_FY0DNB5FK84AE4PE2XB6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Daryl