We’ve not needed to level much higher than a few inches in a long time. But today was different. About a year ago Kent H. gave me some information about his homemade leveling boards which gave me some ideas.
I bought large cedar boards (2X6?) and drilled a hole through our existing heavy plastic levelers into the boards. The I dropped an 1 1/2” bolt into the hole to keep the parts from separating. Finally, I placed a piece of a rubber mat under the plastic leveler to help reduce sliding. Today was the first time we had to use this contraption and it worked perfectly.
I have several larger plastic levers that can give us 6” when combined with these boards. So far, we’ve not needed them.
And that’s it from here. And thanks again Kent.
Ed,
I’ve changed things up a bit on my wooden ramps. Previously, I used plastic dowels to secure the levelers together.
I’ve also had issues with the “Level-Upp” levelers sliding around as I backed the LD onto the multileveled ramp assembly.
Using my drill/driver, I now use ‘Star‘ deck Screws to bind the levelers together. Like you, I also pre-drill the plastic ramps to accept the deck screw to prevent the ramps from splitting.
The correct length screw will actually penetrate the bottom leveler
by about 1/4 inch and acts like a cleat to prevent sliding. Longer screws may help if you are camped on gravel. I do like your rubber mats.
Now, I can lay out the ramps, lock them together set them in place and back up with no worry of the ramps sliding. My total height for my front right tire last week was about 8”. That’s nuts. 🤪
Sometimes a campsite is just crazy unlevel but if you had reserved the site you just have to deal with it. Really makes the auto levelers much more attractive. 🧐
Kent
Ed & Margee,
I have the same red levelers that you show in your picture. I used them on our previous 2002 MB and on our 2017 MB. I always feel a little uneasy when I use them though. Specially the way the tire is sitting in your picture - where the bottom of the tire is resting right at the point of the second incline. That has caused the tires to really bulge out in an alarming manner. During a recent trip wandering Michigan's Upper Peninsula, we pulled in at night and had to level. In the morning, the tires were right on that incline point all night. I'm sure that didn't help the strength of the side walls.
I always feel a little uneasy when I use them though. Specially the way the tire is sitting in your picture - where the bottom of the tire is resting right at the point of the second incline.
You’re right. We had to re-adjust after I took that picture.
Ed and Margee, thanks for this great tip!!
I think I was using the same homemade pattern for leveling blocks on my TK that Kent and some others are using. My TK’s previous owner sent me this back in 1999. I gave a pair to the fellow that bought my ‘85 so will need to make another set. As I recall, they worked well but are a bit heavy and bulky.
The finished size of a 2"X6", the size of the stock used for the stepped levelers in the photo, is 1 1/2" X 5 1/2"; the thickness of each board may not be critical, but, IMO, the width is not sufficient to offer full-footprint support for the tire. Additionally (also IMO), each "step" length should support the tire completely and not allow part of the tire to be hanging off the back end.
YMMV.
The finished size of a 2"X6", the size of the stock used for the stepped levelers in the photo, is 1 1/2" X 5 1/2"; the thickness of each board may not be critical, but, IMO, the width is not sufficient to offer full-footprint support for the tire. Additionally (also IMO), each "step" length should support the tire completely and not allow part of the tire to be hanging off the back end.
Joan, the length was not an issue since the footprint of the tire is about 8" and each level is at least 10" long. You did need to be careful not to go too far on the top step. You may be right on the width but I don't recall that being an issue either. Are today's tires wider now than they were back then?
The width of the board is 5 1/2"; the width of the tire "footprint" (of a 225/75R/16E tire) is approximately 8". The leaves 2 1/2" inches of no support; 1 1/4" per side of "droop", if the tire is centered on the board. A lack of full footprint support puts stress on the sidewalls.
Lynx blocks work very well; not expensive, very durable, many configurations possible. (I also have a pair of 8" wide "wedge" leveling ramps; no longer available, as far as I know. :( )
YMMV, as always.
I might start out using the Lynx type levelers as I have a leftover set from my trailer days. I’m a little leery of using plastic for something that weighs as much as a motorhome, though, but I guess people do that these days.
Of course, there are hydraulic levelers for those sites that would otherwise be unusable... ;-) The pic below was at Tuttle Creek CG at the foot of Mt Whitney. Yep, those front wheels were well off the ground.
Ken F on the road
Ken, I’ve had to do that many times with the Bigfoot Jack’s in the past. They can support the entire weight of the motorhome if needed.
"I'm a little leery of using plastic for something that weighs as much as a motorhome, though, but I guess people do that these days."
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The strength and resistance to shatter depend on the quality of the "plastic" and the surface that's under the leveler; the only issue I've ever had with using Lynx levelers over many years is an occasional "dent" on the bottom from a small rock getting wedged. The levelers do fade a little over time, but that's a cosmetic issue, not one of strength, at least as far as I've experienced. Any plastic leveling block may scoot, depending on the surface; pavement is the most conducive to this, particularly if the stack is more than two blocks high.
A long time ago, I bought a set of Camco solid plastic levelers, the old yellow ones sold at CW; they were junk. Two splintered and shattered on the first use under the tires of the little Dolphin motorhome. This was on grass; the rest broke after that when used on pavement and gravel. Perhaps there are some square solid yellow plastic leveling blocks on the market now that are sturdier and more durable; I can't say. The Lynx blocks have been reliable, versatile, easy to clean, very durable, and they support the full tire footprint; works for me. ;)
Of course, there are hydraulic levelers for those sites that would otherwise be unusable... ;-) The pic below was at Tuttle Creek CG at the foot of Mt Whitney. Yep, those front wheels were well off the ground.
Always enjoy seeing that photo, Ken!
"Yep, those front wheels were well off the ground."
And I can hear the fridge screaming in agony even now. Surely NOT a good thing, particularly for extended periods! :o ::)
Steve, why would the refrig be screaming? It was level.
Ken F on the road
"It was level."
Wow, the perspective of the LD as compared to the toad in the photo was greatly different. Is your fridge suspended on gimbals? :o
Steve S, that was my first impression. It is one of those optical illusions as it is not obvious the ground is at a big slope.
"the perspective of the LD as compared to the toad in the photo was greatly different."
Looks that way, but it's just an optical delusion. ;-) As the attached photo shows, the LD and toad are at the same angle (and both are level).
Like Joan, I've used Lynx blocks for many years. (Fourteen, to be exact.) In all that time I've only had to throw away three or four out of forty. I've used them to level my rig; I used them when installing the towing baseplate (http://www.andybaird.com/travels/skylarking/2009/towing.htm) on my Honda Fit; and I used them just a couple of days ago when changing the oil in my Subaru Outback. (I installed a Fumoto valve (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D99MGD1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) in place of the drain plug, to make the job less messy next time.)
I've found Lynx blocks to be both useful and reliable. Unlike wooden ramps, they are lightweight and can be stored in a variety of spaces. (As an extreme example, right now I'm carrying half a dozen in the former group-24-sized battery box of my Trillium trailer. There's no way I could carry any kind of ramps in this little trailer.)
Also like Joan, I tried the yellow Lego-like leveling blocks some years back, and found that they cracked and shattered almost immediately. Worthless!
Also like Joan, I tried the yellow Lego-like leveling blocks some years back, and found that they cracked and shattered almost immediately. Worthless!
I know the Lynx blocks are superior — no argument — but we’ve been using our set of the yellows for over ten years and only one has cracked.
🤔 — Jon
I think I was using the same homemade pattern for leveling blocks on my TK that Kent and some others are using. My TK’s previous owner sent me this back in 1999. I gave a pair to the fellow that bought my ‘85 so will need to make another set. As I recall, they worked well but are a bit heavy and bulky.
I had a similar setup in our 1983 LD, the blocks are now the shed for use when working on vehicles in the driveway.
In the 2003 LD, we use two leveling ramps and two sets of Lynx Blocks. This covers 95% of leveling situations.
Plywood ramps- carried in LD | Ramps dimensions 30 inches Lo… | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/1416451648/in/album-72157602095132726/)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1228/1416451648_261d21c396_w.jpg)
Larry
I’ve given consideration to moving over to Lynx Blocks, however, my DIY blocks have worked well over the past five years.
As Joan mentioned, 2x6” blocks present a problem for side to side support of the tire. I purchased 2”x10”x20’ (ft) lumber and made each tier long enough to completely support the tire on each tier. It’s important to provide support side to side and front to back.
Interestingly, while in Yellowstone, I needed to support the front tires to level the rig. After ‘backing‘ onto the ramps several times, as I typically do, I had difficulty keeping the tires straight on the ramps. I decided to pull ‘forward’ onto the ramps and ‘hit the mark’ on the first attempt. 🧐
Do others here pull onto the blocks or back onto the blocks? I now pull forward rather than back onto them.
Kent
I’ve given consideration to moving over to Lynx Blocks, however, my DIY blocks have worked well over the past five years.
As Joan mentioned, 2x6” blocks present a problem for side to side support of the tire. I purchased 2”x10”x20’ (ft) lumber and made each tier long enough to completely support the tire on each tier. It’s important to provide support side to side and front to back.
Interestingly, while in Yellowstone, I needed to support the front tires to level the rig. After ‘backing‘ onto the ramps several times, as I typically do, I had difficulty keeping the tires straight on the ramps. I decided to pull ‘forward’ onto the ramps and ‘hit the mark’ on the first attempt. 🧐
Do others here pull onto the blocks or back onto the blocks? I now pull forward rather than back onto them.
Kent
"Do others here pull onto the blocks or back onto the blocks? I now pull forward rather than back onto them."Depends where the sweet spot on the pad is. When I've found the most level spot on the pad I try to ramp up in the direction that will protect the integrity of the level spot the best. I've used the 3 tier yellow ramps forever and am now able to "feel" my way up them.Chris
I’ve given consideration to moving over to Lynx Blocks, however, my DIY blocks have worked well over the past five years.
The combination of the two ramps and Lynx blocks presents choices for leveling in a wide range of conditions.
A pair of 12" X 18" X 3/4" exterior plywood rectangles are also carried, they can be placed under the ramps and or blocks when leveling on soft surfaces.
They can be placed under the hydraulic jacks, when lifting the front or rear of the rig up, helping to keep the jacks from rocking or sinking.
Larry
a piece of a rubber mat under the plastic leveler to help reduce sliding.
The combination of the two ramps and Lynx blocks presents choices for leveling in a wide range of conditions.
A pair of 12" X 18" X 3/4" exterior plywood rectangles are also carried, they can be placed under the ramps and or blocks when leveling on soft surfaces.
They can be placed under the hydraulic jacks, when lifting the front or rear of the rig up, helping to keep the jacks from rocking or sinking.
Larry
Thanks for the advice. I have Lynx blocks, now I need to get to HD for a half-sheet of 3/4" exterior plywood and a rubber mat.
Charles
Just my experience, but a rubber or plastic "mat" under a Lynx leveler can cause the leveler to scoot and the mat to ruck up under it, particularly if the blocks aren't stacked so the climb is more or less "gradual". A gravel surface is the most prone to this happening, and a paved or hard dirt surface is second. Grass usually doesn't cause a "scoot" issue, and the plywood pads or mat does keep the Lynx from sinking into the grass. One just has to experiment and use whatever works for the specific surfaces.
Just a caution (perhaps obvious, but....) that extricating the rig from parking in sand or really soft dirt (that might look like really hard dirt) is to be avoided. (I have not done this, fortunately, but have seen enough examples to know that this is not an experience I care to have.)
Just my experience, but a rubber or plastic "mat" under a Lynx leveler can cause the leveler to scoot and the mat to ruck up under it, particularly if the blocks aren't stacked so the climb is more or less "gradual". A gravel surface is the most prone to this happening, and a paved or hard dirt surface is second. Grass usually doesn't cause a "scoot" issue, and the plywood pads or mat does keep the Lynx from sinking into the grass. One just has to experiment and use whatever works for the specific surfaces.
We've experienced leveler scoot too, on smooth concrete and on dirty park pads. So now I survey the spot and sweep away any dust and gravel before siting the LD. So far never had a problem on grass and don't park on sandy spots.
Charles
Has anyone here used the Anderson levelers before?
Amazon.com: 2-Pack Camper Leveler, Chock Kit | Andersen 3604 x2 | Less Than... (https://www.amazon.com/Leveler-Andersen-Minutes-Levelers-Leveling/dp/B01LYQ1Z8S/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&aaxitk=jaskUxJtpJAYkYmkvi3W9g&hsa_cr_id=5811458730201&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0)
"Just my experience, but a rubber or plastic "mat" under a Lynx leveler can cause the leveler to scoot and the mat to ruck up under it, particularly if the blocks aren't stacked so the climb is more or less "gradual". A gravel surface is the most prone to this happening, and a paved or hard dirt surface is second. Grass usually doesn't cause a "scoot" issue, and the plywood pads or mat does keep the Lynx from sinking into the grass. One just has to experiment and use whatever works for the specific surfaces. "
When we were dealing with the weight of a 40-foot behemoth, we used an oversized fiberglass chopping board under each of the automatic levelers. When we changed back to our Lazy Daze, we continued this practice, thus saving a lot of headaches about ground integrity.
Virtual hugs,
Judie <-- Sierra Vista, Arizona
Adventures of Dorrie Anne | Photographing the West (http://dorrieanne.wordpress.com)
Today: Colorful Peppers in an Omelette
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Do others here pull onto the blocks or back onto the blocks? I now pull forward rather than back onto them.
Typically, we back into a spot, which leaves the cab closest to the street - and that is the bunk where we sleep. So, I mostly back onto the blocks, which puts me as far back into the spot as possible.
Steve
Greg,
I wish that you could either combine their levelers to increase height or they offered taller units. I’ve had several 6” +‘rises over the years.
I’ve seen them used on The Long Long Honeymoon. They worked well for their Airstream. As they are, I wish they could be stacked.
Kent
"Has anyone here used the Anderson levelers before?"
Two years ago the company's owner, Ryan Andersen, was photographed with his wife and kids after defacing Utah's Corona Arch by carving their initials (https://www.rvtravel.com/anderson843/), a heart, and the date ('18) into the rock. When he realized he'd been caught in the act, he sent his kids back to the car with instructions to remove the license plates, in a vain attempt to avoid being identified.
This was not his first offense, either. Similar graffiti was found in Arches National Park two years ago, where the jackass actually carved his last name (https://abcnews.go.com/US/graffiti-etched-famed-rock-formation-arches-national-park/story?id=38761196) into the rock. Rangers said it was carved too deeply to be mitigated or removed. For more details, do an internet search on "andersen defaces". (Note "sen" spelling of last name).
I wouldn't buy from this company.
If I need more than Lynx levelers, I use 2x12 treated pine cut long enough so both rear tires can be supported with a safety margin. I stack them two high and use stove bolts to hold them together. In rare cases, I add a Lynx on top of the wood and drop a bolt into predrilled holes to keep it in place.
Many times, in boondocking I can move a little in one direction to get level with resorting to levelers.
"Has anyone here used the Anderson levelers before?"
Two years ago the company's owner, Ryan Andersen, was photographed with his wife and kids after defacing Utah's Corona Arch by carving their initials (https://www.rvtravel.com/anderson843/), a heart, and the date ('18) into the rock. When he realized he'd been caught in the act, he sent his kids back to the car with instructions to remove the license plates, in a vain attempt to avoid being identified.
This was not his first offense, either. Similar graffiti was found in Arches National Park two years ago, where the jackass actually carved his last name (https://abcnews.go.com/US/graffiti-etched-famed-rock-formation-arches-national-park/story?id=38761196) into the rock. Rangers said it was carved too deeply to be mitigated or removed. For more details, do an internet search on "andersen defaces". (Note "sen" spelling of last name).
I wouldn't buy from this company.
Mr. Andersen would make a good boy scout leader in Utah.
Boy Scout Leaders Topple Ancient Rock Formation In Utah's Goblin Valley... (https://www.huffpost.com/entry/goblin-valley-boy-scout-leaders-destroy-rock_n_4122488)
Wonder if there is a merit badge for destroying natual wonders?
Larry
Shameful what the Boy Scout leaders and Mr. Anderson did. These incidents are not all that uncommon. Obviously, there are idiots in all walks of life:
Guilty Plea and Sentence for Woman Charged with Defacing Rock Formations in... (https://www.justice.gov/usao-edca/pr/guilty-plea-and-sentence-woman-charged-defacing-rock-formations-7-national-parks-0)