On Thursday, Sept. 24th we will be taking delivery of our 2021 Rear Bath in Ehrenberg, AZ. It will be identical to our 2010 RB ("Monty") that we sold last December. The new name will be "Villa Verde" as it is green/white like the old LD. We will be driving a rental truck from Florida with all the gear that is still in the containers from Monty which will just go into the same storage spaces. We then drop off the rental truck in Phoenix and possibly leisurely head toward Michigan to visit friends and have BigFoot jacks installed. If that doesn't work out we can always have the jacks installed at the Florida BigFoot center after we return home to FL. Once home I will begin making additional modifications to suit our needs which I can show on this string at that time. Some of those will be Borg tire valve extenders, AC surge suppression, vent covers, trailer hitch strengthening and 7-blade toad wiring socket. Fortunately I have a lift so I can walk under the motorhome to do a lot of the work there. It's going to be an interesting winter in Florida.
" The new name will be "Villa Verde" as it is green/white..."
LOVE that name, how appropriate! :D
A/C surge protection?
Are you talking about installing the surge protector to include the generator?
... Michigan to visit friends and have BigFoot jacks installed ...
Moderators,
Not sure this type of information will violate any rule, please delete this msg if need be.
Thanks
Mike,
Just FYI
Buying leveling system from rvupgradestore.com will save on factory installation, if memory is any good it was $500 last I checked, significantly lower compared to buying directly from factory ... and if you ask nicely, perhaps additional 5% discount from rvupgrades.com. As for scheduling, I was told by both places that a 3-4 day notice should be good enough.
Thanks for starting this thread.
Regards,
Mohammed, I don’t recall a leveling system being an option. Am I missing something?
Mohammed, I don’t recall a leveling system being an option. Am I missing something?
[/quoteMohammed, I don’t recall a leveling system being an option. Am I missing something?
by factory I mean folks who are making Big Foot leveling system ... there are two options to buy, either buy it directly from factory in MI or a distributor, in this case rvupgradessoter.com ... buying from this particular distributor also give an option of installation by Big Foot factory in MI at discounted price (compared to buying it directly from Big Foot). Let me know if I need to put more words.
Cheers
Is Bigfoot the best levelling system? Prices seem fair enough. Of course there is the installation cost.
Bigfoot Hydraulic Leveling Systems - System Comparisons (http://www.thebigfootleveler.com/ford-e-450.html)
I’m a bit intrigued by this idea myself. My site here in Big Bear was a challenge the other day. It had rained the day before I arrived and the day after.
Upgrades are fun on the pocketbook.
Kent
.... Of course there is the installation cost ...
and we cannot avoid Tax either :-)
Is Bigfoot the best levelling system? Prices seem fair enough. Of course there is the installation cost.
There is no 'best'. You pick and choose the features that are important to you.
Compared to HWH (which I own, but didn't decide to purchase - came with the RV), Bigfoot seems to be more affordable and less likely to develop reliability issues.
HWH jacks are kickdown style jacks, while Bigfoot jacks are straight down. That means that HWH has a longer range of motion.
The kickdown style also means that you can often drive forward if the jacks won't retract, allowing you to continue traveling until you can repair.
I think there are also some differences in dealer network (HWH is larger) and factory support (Bigfoot might be more accessible to end users).
I don't know why the previous owner on my LD choose HWH, but I think you can make a case for either depending on what's important to you.
Rich
'03 MB in NC
Searching for Big Foot weight specs I located some data stating the whole system weight is about 300 pounds. That’s abound 75 lbs a corner. Not horrible at all.
Only time will tell if I take the plunge but I am certainly not opposed to the notion.
Thanks.
Kent
(Are you talking about installing the surge protector to include the generator?)
Yes, I will hardwire it between the generator/shore power selector switch and the main breaker panel as I had done in our former RB. It will be the Progressive Ind. HW30C with the remote display. The display will be mounted on the cabinet face below the stove.
BigFoot jacks: This is one item that should only be installed by BigFoot or one of their dealers unless you are good at vertical welding the mounts to the Ford frame and then running all the electrical or hydraulic lines. Yes, it is $3K+ but I feel they are well worth the cost. I don't like getting out in a driving rainstorm (as is what is happening outside our house currently) to place blocks under the tires. That is just one of many reasons to have the jacks. I plan on getting the "Auto Central System" with one pump similar to what I had on Monty. It worked very well for ten years. The single pump system is much lighter that the weight of the four pump system. Also I will request the pump be powered from the engine battery, not the coach batteries. I can run the engine for the power while operating the jacks. This saves the coach batteries for camping. That worked quite well with Monty. They can put the controller in a separate housing instead of a dash mount. In Monty that was on the end of a very long umbilical cable coming from under the back of the driver's seat. I could operate the jacks standing outside the driver's door if needed (not often). When the jacks are down the controller is placed on the driver's seat as the reminder of them being down. I place linear bubble levels on the front dash and side driver's door for level reference if leveling manually. If I need extra elevation I also carry eight 2 X 8 X 10 pressure treated boards for placing under the jack pads. The jacks are much more than able to totally support the weight of the coach off the ground. I have done that several times when getting new tires installed.
The kickdown style also means that you can often drive forward if the jacks won't retract, allowing you to continue traveling until you can repair.
This has always concerned me for two reasons. If they don't kick all the way down (hitting an obstruction or high spot in the ground one has to relocate for that to work. More concerning is if the coach is on a forward ground slope other than placing wheel chocks the coach could fall forward off the jacks. I know there are other options out there but BigFoot has served me well over the years. Also BF has a satellite installation facility one hour from our Florida home in Lakeland.
About jacks, The Ford frame is tempered as a unit, which involves heat treatment. Welding anything on the frame rails should be avoided. Too much heat across the rails will un-temper them and cause a weak point that can cause a bent, or cracked frame. A friend who worked part time at an RV place, helped install leveling systems that were bolt on. That system (not Kwikee, can't remember the brand) utilized holes already in the rails. Many applications for motorized RV's apply to the E450, and hopefully the new chassis retained those bolt holes. Drilling a hole in the 'web' doesn't affect it's overall strength much.
The HWH rely on a pair of springs to collapse the cylinder. They also have telescoping jacks available for more lift. My Kwikee jacks were opposed to each other, and you could only drive off the one jack, if one jack was affected. You'd have to look to see if you had to go forward, or backward. With the spring return, you could use a wrench to loosen the hydraulic hose for a recalcitrant jack, to get it to come up. A bit messy I hear, but better than being stuck somewhere. All in favor of powering the pump off of the chassis battery, have the engine running while operating. Not needed if just raising the spring HWH. I've heard that springs break. Can still be raised if the other spring is ok. The hydraulic pump can take over 100 Amps to run, but doesn't need to run much.
Remnants of Kwikee were bought by US Power Gear, bought by Lippert. They had no interest in supporting Kwikee customers, so maintenace of the older jacks is problematic. Hydraulic places can do some support of the hoses, valves and cylinders. Not so well for the controllers, wiring.
Some campgrounds require a jack pad to spread the weight load. It is easy to drive off and forget them. (don't ask). You also can't lift the rear wheels or even one if a transmission brake because of the differential. (older E450's). Blocking the front wheels really a good idea. Lazy Dazes are almost always too low in the front, so with the rear wheels firmly planted, blocking the front was never needed for my TK. (parking brake at each rear wheel on a E350.) RonB
... Welding anything on the frame rails should be avoided...
I am not an expert just repeating what I heard from factory on the phone
There are two product code for the same system one code is for the system with screws and second one is for welding. I was told that factory will only do the welding no matter which one I choose from the reseller. Again I have no background and I will like to hear more to be able to make informed judgement.
Thanks
I located some data stating the whole system weight is about 300 pounds.
Kent
That would put Orwan right on the GVWR on some trips.
At 5# and 8#, I can't downsize the dogs much more, and I don't think dieting would work.
Has anyone come up the a good freeze-dried stout? ;)
Guess I'll have to keep to more primitive leveling
Joel
"At 5# and 8#, I can't downsize the dogs much more, and I don't think dieting would work."
Joel - Weren't there three doggos previously?
Virtual hugs,
Judie
"At 5# and 8#, I can't downsize the dogs much more, and I don't think dieting would work."
Joel - Weren't there three doggos previously?
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Yes Miss Divinely Adorable (Dora) passed away in her sleep this past June at the age of 13. I'd rather have kept that 17# weight in the rig but such was not to be. Thank you for asking.
"Yes Miss Divinely Adorable (Dora) passed away in her sleep this past June at the age of 13. I'd rather have kept that 17# weight in the rig but such was not to be. Thank you for asking."
Sniff. My sympathies - a heartbreak, I'm sure. Photo?
Virtual hugs,
Judie
Sorry to hear that Joel, my sympathies also. RB
Sue and I were sorry to hear about Dora, Joel. She was a sweat heart alright.
Warren
Thank you all for the kind words and thoughts. I think Lost Companions would be a good thread, separate from this one.
Joel
Thank you all for the kind words and thoughts. I think Lost Companions would be a good thread, separate from this one.
Joel
Perhaps you would like to state that topic/thread, Joel, and tell us Dora's story.
Chris
Always sad to hear about losing a loved one. Sorry to hear of you loss. 😢🦮
Joel, dear friend, no amount of tears can express my sorrow for your lose.
To you and others here that have lived through a loss such as yours. https://youtu.be/V213BsnsQBs
Kent
Team,
First purchase :-) if anybody is in the market for portable EMS, Progressive EMS-PT30X is $243 shipped at Best RV & Truck Supply LLC. Not an indorsement for the vendor just FYI they have it 25% below Amazon or Walmart price. Mine is in shipping and I got the verbal assurance that this is a brand new unit. Of course I do not expect any update after I receive the unit. Not sure how I will test it without RV or 30amp plug.
EMS is actually second purchase first one is metal garage, floor preparation and lawn work to be able to take RV in the backyard. I expect to spend few fold more on this item compared to any other RV upgrade (I am a newbie, what do I know). I am working with this person gabriel@carports.com and he is few thousand lower then other second priced metal garage. Again, not an endorsement, limited experience but if you are in the market, checking them may be worthwhile. As for quality, most of the garage buildings have same material and you can buy same guarantee for wind and snow and number of years guarantee. For me this is a temporary structure as my town will not allow (yes I tried) ... I know I could have parked it somewhere for much economically but I think it will make it easier and give us more flexibility if RV is parked close by. As for permit, not a first time I will say sorry ...
Moderators,
My intention is share the information. I am not sure if I am allowed to give vendors name or advertise prices here. If this type of information is inappropriate, please delete this message.
Thanks
Team,
First purchase :-) if anybody is in the market for portable EMS, Progressive EMS-PT30X is $243 shipped at Best RV & Truck Supply LLC. Not an indorsement for the vendor just FYI they have it 25% below Amazon or Walmart price. Mine is in shipping and I got the verbal assurance that this is a brand new unit. Of course I do not expect any update after I receive the unit. Not sure how I will test it without RV or 30amp plug.
EMS is actually second purchase first one is metal garage, floor preparation and lawn work to be able to take RV in the backyard. I expect to spend few fold more on this item compared to any other RV upgrade (I am a newbie, what do I know). I am working with this person gabriel@carports.com and he is few thousand lower then other second priced metal garage. Again, not an endorsement, limited experience but if you are in the market, checking them may be worthwhile. As for quality, most of the garage buildings have same material and you can buy same guarantee for wind and snow and number of years guarantee. For me this is a temporary structure as my town will not allow (yes I tried) ... I know I could have parked it somewhere for much economically but I think it will make it easier and give us more flexibility if RV is parked close by. As for permit, not a first time I will say sorry ...
Moderators,
My intention is share the information. I am not sure if I am allowed to give vendors name or advertise prices here. If this type of information is inappropriate, please delete this message.
Thanks
It's OK to share this information, Muhammad, and/or make recommendations just as long as you are not representing or being an agent for the vendors.
Chris
Joel, so sorry to hear about Miss Divinely Adorable. Love her name! My Leo and Lucy (75# each) hold my heart. Our deepest sympathy.
Mike,
I guess you are the first one getting 2021 model ... I am not sure if new chassis still need additional long valve stems and if we need long stems how it will impact build in TPMS functionality. I know you are few weeks away getting your new RV, please do share you experience on this topic at right time.
All,
On related topic, I saw Vair compressor (400p-rv) come with number of accessories. Do any of these gadgets help filling inside tires in the back? If yes, does it mean with this compressor we do not have to worry bout long stems? Showing my ignorance ...
Thanks
The Viair compressor for RVs has a long fill nozzle, however without the long valve stem on the inside dually it is very difficult to get to the tires fill valve.
Not sure what the 2021 dually valves are like or if the long Borg valves can be installed on a rim with a built in TPMS. For all other LDs the long valve stem is almost essential .
Sure makes filling up the inners a whole lot easier.
Kent
Sure makes filling up the inners a whole lot easier.
Kent
I had more trouble filling the outside ones. My Borg's were installed last weekend.
Ditto:
Order and received Borg Chrome Valve Stem Kit from "Your Tire Supply Store" aka (Borg Equipment & Supply Co
A wonderful lady by the name of Kelly, informative, great disposition, and professional. All in one.
PO Box 190
Tujunga, CA 91043
800-352-8119
818-352-8119 X 111
$160.73 Including Shipping via FedEx ($140.00 if you do not include the front wheels)
My tire stems are original 2010, with two inside dual having flex rubber extensions. Had the flex rubber with mesh coverings on a previous RV that worked out, but maybe I was just lucky.
Borg Steel Valve Stems seem to be "the thing" today as they are near indestructible with proper installation.
In the next new days I have an appointment with Ted Wiens in Vegas for the Borg Valve install on all wheels. Currently my Viair Compressor chuck is difficult and near impossible to connect to the old valves.
Not fun on your knees and 108 Degree heat here (or anywhere).
Also Kelly with the above company told me that she has had numerous Lazy Daze customers recently. Shows you the power of this Forum.
Most respectfully,
Tony R (aka codefour)
Muhammad, I will let you know about our new 2021 unit after we pick it up late September. I already have received the Borg steel valves for installation when we return to FL. I will send you a personal message with my contact info.
Thanks a lot.
Stems and levelers are the only two items left on my list. I checked the vendor (your tireshop supply) and they are very open about stems not working with internal TPMS. Their DL1FCFR product is designed for latest chassis but I am not sure if latest means 2021 as well. I will wait for Mike or somebody else to enlighten us with first hand experience and will resist the temptation to cleaning my list. I am also dreaming that perhaps Ford may have solved the issue with new chassis :-)
PS: if anybody is in the market for compressor, amazon had 400-RV for around $250 yesterday pm ....
Regards
Just returned home with Ms. Daisy 2010 RB and her brand new Borg Steel/Chrome Valve stems.
(Hopefully no valve extensions for me again ever).
Purchased @ Your Tire Shop Supply | Supplies for Tire Shops (https://yourtireshopsupply.com/)
I must be dreaming.
It is so easy to check and air fill my tires it's SICK!
Straight on fit with the air chuck. Bang! Finished!
Kudo's to Ted Wiens Tire Shop in Vegas for a job well done.
Most respectfully, and Thank you LDO
Tony R (aka codefour)
Hi Muhammed; Janes comment about a 'Dogbone' brought to mind that you might need one for your new 'soon to be rig'. I have a 25' 10 gauge extension cord with standard 115v ac ends from my garage. So I use an adaptor to fit the shore power cord of the LD to a standard plug. There is some heat (not much) generated at each connection, so I don't like the compact connectors that put all of that heat in a small location. I also want the 115v ac end to be small to fit in better. I plug in at friends homes when I'm driveway 'surfing' so small is easier. This one has a light in the plug to show if you have power. Road Power 09542 14/3 STW 15 to 30-Amp RV Adapter Extension Cord with... (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Road-Power-09542-14-3-STW-15-to-30-Amp-RV-Adapter-Extension-Cord-with-Lighted-End-18-Inch-Black/16817356) Walmart had them in store, reasonable price. A handle on the big plug end. It should co-operate well with your EMS surge/voltage protector. I don't know how many 50Amp only outlets you may run into on the east coast at campgrounds. I haven't run into any around the west coast, usually they have both 30 and 50 here. But just in case I carry an adaptor to allow me to plug into a 50Amp socket. I've heard of worn out 30A sockets in a pedestal, but the 50A worked for people who used the adaptor to switch outlets. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-5030FHVP.html
The shore power cord that comes with your LD may be the new style input plug, not Marinco. Only described as a "Stainless steel power inlet with 30 foot 30 amp exterior power cord" Also called a SmartPlug. That should be interesting.
Amazon.com: SmartPlug B30ASSYNT Combo Kit with Female Connector and Stainless... (https://www.amazon.com/SmartPlug-B30ASSYNT-Retro-fit-Connector-Shorepower-Accessories-dp-B01CT8Z4ZQ/dp/B01CT8Z4ZQ/ref=dp_ob_title_auto) RonB
Ron,
Thanks.
I ran underground wire conduit from home to future RV port and was worried about heat generation. I end up getting 10/3 wire (LifeSupplyUSA 10/3 200ft SJTW Lighted End Extension Cord 15 Amp, 300 Volt,... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06ZZ75CJZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)). I have not done any calculations but I hope 15/20 amp home line is good enough for running the fridge, space heater and perhaps a small humidifier. If fuse start tripping, I will worry about putting in a dedicated 30 amp outlet.
As for conversion, I have Amazon.com: Camco (55165) Heavy Duty RV Dogbone Electrical Adapter with... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BUU5YA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and Amazon.com: LeisureCords 50 Amp Male to 30 Amp Female Dogbone Adapter RV... (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075RMXXF1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
on order. I was not aware of plug need, and will judge if I need to get it now or it can wait. I am worried about the volume and weight of the gear I had to take with me for the delivery. I read about folks sending boxes in advance, perhaps I have to send few boxes as well or perhaps I can take 3 night train from NJ and carry the stuff with me :-)
Thanks again Ron.
Regards,
Muhammed,
Depending on what you plan on doing once you pick up your rig, you may not need to take *everything*. You could buy stuff on the way home and/or just purchase the bare minimum before going west and then purchase the rest of your supplies once you get back to NJ.
When I pick up my RB, hopefully by the end of October, I will be hightailing it back up to Michigan to retrieve my cats, get levelers installed at the Bigfoot factory, install an EMS, and pack up the rest of my stuff. Then I'm going to head south and snowbird. I don't think I need to take much to Montclair besides linens, a couple cooking pots, a couple dogbones, a hose, credit card, cell phone, map, GPS, and Coachnet. I don't believe I'll do too much in the way of campgrounds on my trip back. Anything else I'll order or buy on my way back. I may be naive, but I figure I can do with out on my quick trip back here, and I'll be better able to figure out what I *need* instead of the couple hundred item list of wants that I have accumulated.
Linda
Thanks Linda.
We are planning to be on the road for at least couple of months and perhaps more before coming back to cold NJ. I do have a very long list of things we will need based on reading this forum and each item is prioritized based on when we will need the and how easy it will be to get it. For now I am focusing on 15 items I think we must have and unfortunately few of these bulky items are for emergency which I hope will not happen but want to be ready. I will keep my credit card with me and I know we will be going to many stores during travels.
We are on the same page, I want to be comfortable and be ready but there has to be a balance.
Regards,
May I add a note of caution.
We LDers are a very individual lot. I admit I know what is best for everybody but others have other ideas. <smile> I guess I'm saying we all have different versions of the LD and different versions of what is the camping/living style we enjoy. What may sound great on the board for me may be just a waste of your hard earned money. I have/had a garage for of stuff I knew I just could not live without.
My daughter is just entering the RV camping adventure. I shared with her only to buy the minimal things she needs. As she adventures she will find out what she can live with and live without.
I saying all that to say I don't level my RV very often and I don't have tire value extenders. (I can 'justify' those life styles if pressed) Bottom line is the know you personal style and <smile> try to keep you wallet firming closed.
glen
Just returned home with Ms. Daisy 2010 RB and her brand new Borg Steel/Chrome Valve stems.
Tony R (aka codefour)
Were they able to balance the tires with those valve stems?
"Were they able to balance the tires with those valve stems? "
---
The wheels on my 2003 have been fitted with the long brass valve stems (2 sets) since I took delivery, and balancing the tires has never been an issue.
YMMV, as ever.
"Were they able to balance the tires with those valve stems? "
---
The wheels on my 2003 have been fitted with the long brass valve stems (2 sets) since I took delivery, and balancing the tires has never been an issue.
YMMV, as ever.
Interesting. The paper work that comes with the Borg state you could have a problem balancing them. I called 3 shops around here and they said they couldn't do it, so I bought Centramatic wheel balancers.
Hi Steve (Jill); Three that couldn't balance your tires? or three that wouldn't? It takes more work for the tire shops to not break off the extended stems. Many shops do break them off because they aren't being careful enough at the right times. At my last visit for tires in March, I pointed out to the tire person my two inch extension, as he was going to unmount the old tire from the rim, and not 10 seconds later he ripped the short valve stem in half. They replaced it for free, and my 2" extension was recovered intact. (a front wheel).
As an aside, I tried the Centramatic balancers many years ago. (different rig) They didn't work well, and couldn't take the heat involved. Leaked and went dry in less than a year. You need to try a few more shops to find one that will properly balance your tires with extended stems. RonB
Were they able to balance the tires with those valve stems?
I've never had problems getting my tires balanced with borg stems.
I've often wondered why none of the tire shops include the wheel simulator covers when balancing the wheels. It seems to me like those might have an even bigger effect.
I did put some blue painters tape on the end of my stems last time I bought new tires. My goal was just to make the long stem more visible so it didn't get tossed around or overlooked as the techs did their work. I think many shops just don't want the hassle because balancing tires all day is the type of repetitive work that can cause techs to go into autopilot mode and bend up the longer stems.
If you have directional tires (can only roll in one direction), the custom stems can cause some head scratching as the tire techs have to figure out which direction the tires roll. I also marked the wheel location (right rear inside, etc..) on the rims to make it that much easier for them.
Rich
After just having Borg Chrome/Steel Valve Stems installed, and tire balancing with the job, our LD glides rather than rolls.
It has never ridden this smoothly. My Post with photos on this thread a few days ago.
The tire shop did in fact balance ALL tires with the new Borg Valves installed.
Most respectfully,
Tony R (aka codefour)
Hi Steve (Jill); Three that couldn't balance your tires? or three that wouldn't?
As an aside, I tried the Centramatic balancers many years ago. (different rig) They didn't work well, and couldn't take the heat involved. Leaked and went dry in less than a year. RonB
The one shop close to the house in the country that we use said they would try, but the other two said no when I mentioned 7" valve stem. They said the thing that holds the tire down would hit. Maybe it depends on the angle the valve stem is coming off the rim?
As far as Centramatics, they have a five year warranty, so we shall see.
I will let you know about our new 2021 unit after we pick it up late September. I already have received the Borg steel valves for installation when we return to FL.
Mike, let us know what you end up doing, the Factory TPMS sensors changes everything and the conventional extended stems are not going to work. I would hate having to return to using the old-school flexible hoses.
Larry
if anybody is in the market for portable EMS, Progressive EMS-PT30X is $243 shipped at Best RV & Truck Supply LLC. Not an endorsement for the vendor just FYI they have it 25% below Amazon or Walmart price. Mine is in shipping and I got the verbal assurance that this is a brand new unit. Of course I do not expect any update after I receive the unit. Not sure how I will test it without RV or 30amp plug.
If one is setting up a new LD, the best choice for an EMS is a hardwired unit. Once installed, being automatic, no effort is needed to use it and it is thief-proof. Unfortunately, I know people who have had their portable EMSs stolen, even when chained and locked to the electrical post.
The long term favorite is Progressive Industries EMS HW30C. I have installed a couple dozen of them and. AFAIK, all are still working. The internal parts are modular and can be replaced if damaged. Andy's old rig was struck by lightning and the surge protector element needed to be replaced.
Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C (https://www.progressiveindustries.net/ems-hw30c)
Larry
"...the Factory TPMS sensors changes everything and the conventional extended stems are not going to work. I would hate having to return to using the old-school flexible hoses."
---
For me, not having the long stems for easy and convenient tire checking and airing would be a major downside; change is not necessarily progress. ::)
As noted earlier I have only had minor problems with the flexible hose extensions, since 1988, on two different motorhomes. They are still sold. I like Wheel Master, braided stainless cover over the rubber version. Lots of people do use them and also don't have problems. I used to go to the stadium parking lot in San Diego when there were free motorhome shows. Both new and used. Quite a few of the used had those same flex hoses. My parents had Born Free and other brands of class 'A' and 'C' motorhomes also used those same flex hoses. I don't recall them ever having problems with the extensions. 'Old school' isn't always so bad Larry. Think of it as 'Tried and True'. RonB
(Mike, let us know what you end up doing, the Factory TPMS sensors changes everything and the conventional extended stems are not going to work. I would hate having to return to using the old-school flexible hoses.)
Larry,
I agree about those hoses. I had the crimp-on end fall off one that was almost new. Had others leak at the crimps, so they all went into the trash.
I will advise about the new Ford wheels after I return home later October and can get a friend at a tire shop to check out the wheels.
For what it's worth, I have had a couple of times no amount of wheel balancing could eliminate the front vibration after getting new tires. I learned that not all tires are perfectly round when installed on the steel wheels and the only solution was to have the tread shaved to true round. Problem solved!! It is sometimes hard to find a competent tire shop that have the equipment and skills to do this as I found only one in mid-Florida that had the service. Very little tread depth is lost and it will make no difference on length of service the tires will give.
I think we do need an adaptor for air pressure winterizing. Is this one the correct part Amazon.com: Vibrant Yard Company Winterize RV, Motorhome, Boat, Camper, and... (https://www.amazon.com/Winterize-Motorhome-Camper-Travel-Trailer/dp/B083LP8GL5/ref=pd_cart_vw_crc_1_4/132-7931708-7699342?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0056XBBB8&pd_rd_r=d3feeb9c-a4c0-4ab9-a6ae-4f189794ab58&pd_rd_w=3vRST&pd_rd_wg=VlsuD&pf_rd_p=087873c0-f5c2-4480-87ad-25ec8be526a6&pf_rd_r=X8W2YE9NQ2VRJ69CG1T9&refRID=X8W2YE9NQ2VRJ69CG1T9&th=1) I also saw another version of this part with female water connection as well.
Thanks
Hi,
I have done the research on toad requirements but not sure where I can go for the setup.
I had to buy a new car anyway and I usually buy when new year models start showing up (of course to get biggest rebate for leftovers and recent stock rally does not hurt either). I looked at all the flat towable cars in the list which are less then 4000 lbs. and are either four wheel drive or all wheel drive (if nothing else, this will give me additional ground clearance). Seems like only choice is Equinox, which I bought yesterday.
Now the question, if I decide to drive to CA (from NJ) in this car to pickup LD, is there any place between NJ to CA where I can go to make new car tow ready? I have read tow discussion here and am aware of the options, I will not mind spending some extra money to get as easy towing (and breaking) setup as possible. Do tow equipment vendors have garages where they put the baseplate and breaks and do required electric work (just like hydraulic levelers vendors) ?
Is my assumption that setup is needed on the car and not on the motorhome is correct?
Thanks in advance.
Unless things have changed, Ford does not recommend towing for the first 1500 miles.
You only need the tow bar and electrical cord from LD to toad. The toad will need a baseplate, breakaway and lights to chord installed.
Hi,
I have done the research on toad requirements but not sure where I can go for the setup.
I had to buy a new car anyway and I usually buy when new year models start showing up (of course to get biggest rebate for leftovers and recent stock rally does not hurt either). I looked at all the flat towable cars in the list which are less then 4000 lbs. and are either four wheel drive or all wheel drive (if nothing else, this will give me additional ground clearance). Seems like only choice is Equinox, which I bought yesterday.
Now the question, if I decide to drive to CA (from NJ) in this car to pickup LD, is there any place between NJ to CA where I can go to make new car tow ready? I have read tow discussion here and am aware of the options, I will not mind spending some extra money to get as easy towing (and breaking) setup as possible. Do tow equipment vendors have garages where they put the baseplate and breaks and do required electric work (just like hydraulic levelers vendors) ?
Is my assumption that setup is needed on the car and not on the motorhome is correct?
Thanks in advance.
Search for hitch installers which usually have their own garages. Why not get that chore done before you leave NJ? Yes, tow device goes on the car. Make sure the tow cable plug is compatible with whatever LD is using now. 6 pin?
Chris
Make sure the tow cable plug is compatible with whatever LD is using now. 6 pin?
Chris
Thanks Chris. My first choice toad was Wrangler and I was not successful finding a hitch expert in my area, perhaps I did not look harder. I think LD has six pin interface but I will read this section of the manual again.
I got a call from my coach and perhaps I do need to think my strategy to accommodate LD beak in period of 1500 miles.
I thought LD will have a transmitter to send breaking signal to a receiver in the toad but then I have not seen this system yet. Thanks for confirming that LD does not have any installation piece.
Regards,
Thanks Chris. My first choice toad was Wrangler and I was not successful finding a hitch expert in my area, perhaps I did not look harder. I think LD has six pin interface but I will read this section of the manual again.
I got a call from my coach and perhaps I do need to think my strategy to accommodate LD beak in period of 1500 miles.
I thought LD will have a transmitter to send breaking signal to a receiver in the toad but then I have not seen this system yet. Thanks for confirming that LD does not have any installation piece.
Regards,
What do you mean "I got a call from my coach..."?
Chris
I am a newbie and an expert member here is helping me with new life style.
Hi,
Still working on post couple of days ago on towing setup.
Roadmaster do have 1) Nighthawk tow bar 2) Direct connect base plate 3) InvisiBrake and all of these components seems to be at least as good as other components from competitors lite Blue Ox and Demco. I do not see any reason to mix and match vendors.
Another vendor NSA also have integrated system with tow bar and breaking system called Ready Brute Elite 2 but in this case I might have to go with Blue Ox base plate.
Sometime having option does no help especially when you do not have enough knowledge to make the right decision. NSA solution has no electronics and look pretty simple to me. I saw RVgeeks video on Roadmaster system and that system seems pretty straight forward to operate as well. At least I narrowed to two options and depending on who I get for installation will dictate the final solution (I am kidding myself, I think Roadmaster is supperior solution and I will go with it unless I hear otherwise).
Cheers
Muhammad
You may want to consider the "Stay-in-Play Duo" system for your auxiliary braking system. Many of us have it. Once it is installed there is little else that's needed, it's fixed in place... no replacement or removal necessary each time you tow. I have had it on two different tow vehicles over a several year time span and have never had a problem with it!
Stay-IN-Play DUO | Demco Products (https://www.demco-products.com/rv-towing/supplemental-brakes/stay-in-play-duo)
Thanks.
Muhammad
You may want to consider the "Stay-in-Play Duo" system for your auxiliary braking system. Many of us have it. Once it is installed there is little else that's needed, it's fixed in place... no replacement or removal necessary each time you tow. I have had it on two different tow vehicles over a several year time span and have never had a problem with it!
Stay-IN-Play DUO | Demco Products (https://www.demco-products.com/rv-towing/supplemental-brakes/stay-in-play-duo)
I am a newbie to towing products also. So other braking products require installation and removal every time you tow? Sounds like a hassle! Does the towbar brand matter with this product?
If you don't have the knowledge to select towing equipment, maybe spend some time on The Companion and see how others tackled it. It sounds like a DIY install is beyond your experience, so getting a good installer is critical.
I am biased for the Stay-in-Play. I would ask Demco for an installer in your area and let him handle all of it for you. FYI, you are looking at $4,000+ for parts and labor.
RoadMaster's Invisibrake seems to be a 'clone' of the Sta-N-Play Duo from Demco. I wonder if the copyright expired?
A link: https://www.roadmasterinc.com/products/braking/invisibrake/index.html
The removable Brake Buddy type has the advantage of being removable to use on your next 'towed', or if you have two 'towed' cars you can put it where you need it. RonB
Don,
Reason for trying to stick with one vendor is to seek vendor's help to get the installation done by right folks. Video I mention from RVgeeks, they went to Roadmaster's headquarter and got everything installed there and I am hoping to achieve the same. As for 4+K price tag, I will be happy if total cost stays there, prices of components are well advertised I am worried about labor cost and I also read about horror stories of wrong installations (of course folks who are happy will not document).
All,
On paper Ready Bruit look very simple and not only components are cheaper I think installation cost will be significantly low. Question is, how good is this system compared to permanently installed electronic break control? There was some discussion about this system here couple of weeks ago but then it moved to SMI break system. Anybody with first hand experience?
Don,
According to my research, both SMI and InvisiBrake work same way but InvisiBrake is more time consuming installation. How, I have no idea ...
Regards,
A humble suggestion:
You don't need to have every single detail figured out before your rig is delivered. In might be better not to try.
You will learn SO MUCH from your first few trips. You will meet people and see different toad systems and some people will be glad to show you all of the parts and pieces while explaining in person what they like and where they had it installed.
I understand the drive to get everything just right, but we've watched so many new rvers jump in with two feet only to realize 6 months later that something completely different is a better fit for their travel style.
Just a suggestion. Get some travel under your belt before making any big commitments.
Rich
Rich,
You are a wise person. Thanks.
I will continue with full speed 1) I do not have enough time :-( Had stroke few months ago, had four bypass surgeries last year, have 12 back surgeries since 2008, have blood cancer, etc. etc. etc. I should have gone long time ago, this is bonus 2) my plan is to sell LD in five years after going through all the NPs and Alaska and buy an expedition vehicle and ship it across the pond, but I will be totally fine if LD is on sale in 6 months (mostly by my wife) or we keep it for 10+ years, but I like to keep a flexible plan for ten years 3) as for this type of travels, Google time line shows that we are in 80+ countries in last four years and we survived most of these travels with only what we can carry (LD is a big upgrade). We were supposed to be on silk route right now from Istanbul to Bangkok, oh well ... 4) and as for resources, we are blessed, with recent market vitality , all this expense is just the delta on daily portfolio value. I am still struggling building and using spending muscles, bee building savings muscle for too long.
As a wise person recently commented here different stroke for different people. All of us are on this forum because of our love for travel/nature/history in general and LD in specifically but all of us are different and have a different story to tell.
Rich again, I thank you for taking time to advice me and this is the reason I am here. All of you are very generous with your time to share your experiences. I will continue to ask dumb questions but do promise that I will research in advance.
Regards,
FYI, Ron B, The Stay-In-Play can be transferred to another toad. I moved ours from our Liberty to the Rubicon.
I would not be focused on one vendor. Just pick the best or let the installer's knowledge work for you. Toad brakes and tow bars are different animals and do not work together.
I am not a fan of Roadmaster customer service. I tried for some days to get someone to answer the phone there. I went there and was blown off. Products are fine, but I would not let them do an installation, knowing that might be the last time they would talk to me.
"I went there and was blown off."
And I went there for sticky slide bars and had an entirely different experience. An hour in the shop and they came back out virtually new. Five Stars for Roadmaster! ;D
"Toad brakes and tow bars are different animals and do not work together."
Generally true, except for NSA's Ready Brute and Ready Brake (https://www.readybrake.com) products (mentioned earlier in this thread), which are towbars with built-in toad braking. I know of at least one LD owner who bought the ReadyBrute system and was happy with it last time I saw her.
putting a closure on this topic from my side ...
I did talk to NSA and 1) All the hardware is packaged and internet pricing is 1800. Only piece missing out of this package is the wire between LD and toad. I think LD has six pins plug and NSA rep constantly saying seven pins. I need to send him the picture for manual to make sure that there are no surprises 2) Installation, he did break the work into four pieces but bottom line, installation is around $800 and I think it include everything. There may be some surprises but I do not expect any thing major.
Base plate on Equinox will be around 16 inch above the ground. I need to call LD to find out hitch height from the ground. In the worst case I will need some type of an adaptor.
NSA person was very apologetic that their factory is pretty expensive as far as installation but he was not willing to give me a break :-)
I did look at few more videos on NSA system and I think I like this simpler design and most probably I will go with it ... oh and one thing more, they will need at least two weeks notice to schedule the installation and all the installation is on the car.
Regards,
Muhammad, did he say where the factory is?
I am another Demco Stay-In-Play Duo devotee.
The product is of proven design and quality. From my perspective, this translates to higher reliability, a key selection factor when it comes to something as critical as brakes! When I selected my brake device, I searched the LDOG forum and the Lazy Daze Companion and found that the most frequently mentioned /recommended brake device is the permanently installed variety, eg; Stay-In-Play Duo. To the question of Demco vs RoadMaster, I spoke with one of the top tow brake installers in Southern California who informed me that he sees far fewer Demco devices in for repair as compared with the RoadMaster Invisibrake.
Based on Don’s and Larry’s advice, I chose to install the Stay-In-Play myself so that I would be able to repair/adjust it when/where needed. During the install, I came to appreciate Demco’s technical support team, who were responsive, knowledgeable. To Don’s suggestion to contact the manufacturer for a referral to an installer, I had an issue that I couldn’t solve while traveling. Demco took my call on a weekend referring me to a couple of excellent Tow & Hitch shops in the vicinity.
My advice is stick with a proven product and trust the advice of the senior members of this forum - in this case, in favor of Demco.
Muhammad, did he say where the factory is?
Google is your friend, Greg. :)
Chris
Muhammad, did he say where the factory is?
About Us And Our Products (https://www.readybrake.com/about.html) (and yes it took a minute on google)
445 W. Lincoln Rd. Iola, KS 66749
and if you decide to take this route let me know and i can PM you the contact person info as well. as said here couple of times, though you will find very happy long term users on the internet but comparatively speaking this is not a safe bet unless there is some compelling reason to take the risk. in my mind, installation is a bigger factor and i will look for competent installer hopefully folks who make the system, vendor or technology is secondary in this case, all these systems are out for years and if there is any serious safety risk they will be gone long ago.