Good Day Campers, I am getting ready to tackle a roof reseal going the Eternabond route. I am hoping to not have to remove calking, but to be honest, I am not sure if what is up there is caulk or silicon. Can you tell me what the yellowish stuff is from my picture? That was taken close to the ladder on the back passenger side. I was a little confused with the instructions in the companion when it got to the chimney part and the L info. When you run into a vertical, do you just fold it up and trim? I have been following the great advice given after posting about finding moisture in my LD storage compartment. I can't tell if I need to reseal the horizontal panels in the sides of the whole body. There are grooves but I can't see what might have been there originally. (2nd owner of 1997 RB) I hope I posted these picture right.
Thanks, friends!
Mari
In the photo, the "amber-colored" sealant looks original, but it's difficult to tell what else might have been plastered on top of this at one time.
IMO, it will be very difficult to do a solid, lasting E-bond sealing without first removing the old "goop" from the seams with an oscillating tool, then thoroughly cleaning the seams to be sealed before applying the Eternabond. How well the Eternabond sticks and lasts depends almost exclusively on how carefully the surfaces are prepared.
YMMV, as always.
I used Eterna bond on the straight seams and Dicor on the vents and other roof penetrations. Everything needs to be very clean even for the dicor. I removed the original sealant where it was bad and resealed with 3M5200 FC ( Larry's favorite) let that dry then put the E bond over the top of it. So far so good...
Jon
The amber-colored sealant is indeed original. We had it on our 98 MB. We did an Enternabond reseal without removing all the old sealant and it held up well. The companion has sound advice so it's worth reading twice. We had no protrusions and no leaks. We washed the roof multiple times and allowed it to dry very completely over multiple days. Just prior to applying the EB, we cleaned the application area with acetone. We also found it helpful to snap a chalk line to keep us straight. EB is unforgiving and once it gets offtrack, it's nearly impossible to straighten out. Good luck. You'll be happy you did it.
That looks like my roof did. I cleaned it and then put Eternabond on all seams, and then two coats of Kool Seal. I plan on adding a coat in the next 8 months. Make note I do not know how long it will last, I just did it a few months ago. So far so good though. My thoughts are to add Kool Seal every so often.
"My thoughts are to add Kool Seal every so often."
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Kool Seal is a roof sealant designed for "rubber" (and possibly, fiberglass) roofs on RVs. The roof on an LD is aluminum, painted with a slightly "grainy" anti-slip paint. Re-sealing the roof seams with Eternabond (or having the factory do a seam re-seal) and around the vents with 5200 FC or Dicor should be sufficient; if the roof surface is cleaned regularly, it should not require a "coating" of any type.
YMMV, as always.
"My thoughts are to add Kool Seal every so often."
---
Kool Seal is a roof sealant designed for "rubber"
YMMV, as always.
Actually I think it was designed for metal first and they now sell one for rubber.
It will protect and aid in the Eternabond lasting and it being on the rest of the roof could help keep it cooler.
Perfect timing for another round of roof reseal. I was getting ready this morning to start the cleaning process and I noticed a few cracks in the sealant around the vents (roof does not leak). Big question before I start is whether to use the oscillating tool to remove the original or just put the E-bond and Dicor right over the top once it is extremely clean. I've added a few photos to show what I'm looking at and would appreciate any thoughts. Here's my plan:
1. Pressure wash (carefully and where possible)
2. Scrub with soap and brushes
3. Let dry & clean with acetone just before applying E-bond for seams and Dicor for the rest as has been amply documented
Thanks for the input!
What's the orange stuff? I see white and orange, and it appears the white was placed over the orange stuff in places, to which I infer it was placed at a later date. Is the orange stuff coming apart and maybe separating from the roof? Do either fall apart under gentle application of the oscillating tool?
[ spoiler alert - I haven't done anything like this on my own roof]
Joel
Hi Joel. The Orange material is the original sealer from LD. It starts out as a clear goo. Very thick and tough. After a few years it gets browner and shrivels up a bit. Orangier as it gets older. On my '99 it is still pretty tough. The white material was put on also original I believe. (Hard to tell) but it matches the stuff around the base of the ladder/roof rack mounts. RonB
Hi Ray; The roof does need resealing, but is ok. Your plan sounds good. I'd go light on the acetone, and use more alcohol. Gloves needed. Acetone is pretty unsafe stuff, and I don't think it does all that much better. The one broken cover, I think that's the refrigerator vent? I'd replace it now. The escape hatch cover looks like original. On mine it was the consistency of a Pringle chip. I bumped it with my foot, and a big piece broke off at 17 years. I replaced the cover, A/C shroud, FFan cover and bathroom vent cover. I didn't replace the 'fridge cover, but it needs it now. RonB
I'd go light on the acetone, and use more alcohol. Gloves needed. Acetone is pretty unsafe stuff, and I don't think it does all that much better.
It is best to start the final cleaning process with acetone, which is the safest product for removing organic contaminants (there are better cleaners that are more dangerous I would
not recommend). Isopropyl alcohol is best to finish, as that is also a solvent for acetone, will clean off remaining dirt and contaminants, and will prevent any paint damage from the acetone.
Steve
Hi All,
We’re just getting ready for the same project with our O4! How long does the eternabond last for? Do you have to redo it 10 years down the road?
Thanks for the input - I'm calling the factory tomorrow to order the emergency hatch and shower covers as part of the cleanup. This will be a full weekend project (or so).
"How long does the eternabond last for? Do you have to redo it 10 years down the road?"
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I'm pretty sure that there are LD owners who have 10 years and more out of their Eternabond jobs; I did the re-seal 6 or 7 years ago and my roof tape is still in excellent condition. It has needed patches in a couple of spots where a tree branch ripped the plastic cover of the tape, but the integrity of the seal was not compromised.
There are many posts on Eternabond how-to in the archives and in The Companion, so not repeating the preparation and application steps here. The keys to doing a lasting job are pretty simple, but if preparation and application steps are done poorly (or skipped altogether) and/or the job is hurried, the result will be a mess, and Eternabond is NOT do-over friendly. ::)
If the job is done right, it should last for at least 10 years.
YMMV, as ever.
Of the dozens of Eternabond job I have done over the last 15 years, none that I know of have failed or need resealing yet.
I cut the old sealant from the front corners, an area where bubbles are often found, using a vibratory tool and shape blade.
I then scrub the roof with soap and water and let dry. Next the seams are cleaned again with acetone or lacquer thinner, while wearing an organic solvent respirator and gloves. A chalk line is then used to snap guide lines before the tape is applied.
Once the tape is applied, a heavy veneer roller is used to press the tape firmly to the roof.
A little searching and the Companion will bring up many previous postings on the topic.
Larry
How did your roof reseal go? We just finished ours today, and we are happy to report that we have lost a good deal of weight in sweat this weekend, our nails are dirty (a given), and we have sore knees (reminiscent of the flooring project we tackled in our first home that we swore we’d never do again), but we are quite happy with the results and are glad the Ebond should last 10-15 years+!
We are grateful for all the collective wisdom shared in this community and, in the same spirit, are sharing our takeaways below for future reference:
1. We prefered using painters tape to “snap the line” vs a chalk line as our chalk was red and ended up being quite messy in the one corner we tried before switching over to tape. Fyi, there are degrees of permanency to chalk, so be careful when selecting your chalk!
2. We didn’t wear gloves and now I have eternabond cuticles 🤣, but I am the type that cannot stand gloves while washing dishes and such, so if you can try them, and if they don’t stick to the tape, the more power to you!
3. Consider a natural sponge for dabbing on the acetone with a quick wipe of paper towel behind. We found the results are much cleaner this way-doesn’t leave as many dirt streaks behind— (cotton can leave fibers behind) and it’s much easier as a 2-person job overall.
4. We decided (not sure how legit this is) to repair a couple minor cracks to the AC cover (After checking for rust, etc. underneath) w/a couple leftover strips of eternabond. We joked that the rig might end up more ebond than rig in 10 years if we follow that same strategy, but we’re bound to make some bad judgment calls, right!?!
5. Use good scissors and go slow (4 inches or so at a time) when lining up tape and removing backing. We had to make a few custom cuts around vents, etc but it’s doable with good scissors as long as you keep the plastic backing on the tape intact.
1. We prefered using painters tape to “snap the line” vs a chalk line as our chalk was red and ended up being quite messy in the one corner we tried before switching over to tape. Fyi, there are degrees of permanency to chalk, so be careful when selecting your chalk!
4. We decided (not sure how legit this is) to repair a couple minor cracks to the AC cover
5. Use good scissors and go slow (4 inches or so at a time) when lining up tape and removing backing.
Congratulations on the roof job.
I use a chalk line because it's faster and easier to make a straight line. The blue carpenter chalk wipes off with acetone.
Whatever works for you is fine
Eternabond is useful for repairing a cracked A/C cover, the covers will become brittle as they age and eventually will need replacement, so will the vent covers.
One of our nearly 18 years old vent covers recently broke into a few dozen pieces when it was bumped. A few years ago, the A/C cover suffered the same faith when it was it by a tree limb.
Cutting Eternabond Tape gums up scissors, I keep acetone and a rag handy for cleaning the blades of the scissors and utility knife.
Larry
Update: I have finally completed all the steps leading up to applying Eternabond. I sure know what "sweat equity" means, especially with the extremely high temps, poor air quality, and even falling ash here in So Cal. I persevered though, and hopefully we can tackle the tape tomorrow. I have a couple of questions. I couldn't get Dicor quickly, so used Loctite for windows and siding and applied using a Ryobi battery operated caulk gun. It was pretty warm and it poured out. I don't think I got it as nice and smooth as I should have. Do you think it will be ok to apply the tape over, or do I need to shave it off? Also the picture of the end shows broken caulk or ? Should I dig all of that out and fill it with caulk?
I appreciate your help and encouragement. I have learned so much this "stay-cation"!
Mari
I don't think I got it as nice and smooth as I should have. Do you think it will be ok to apply the tape over, or do I need to shave it off?
Also the picture of the end shows broken caulk or ? Should I dig all of that out and fill it with caulk?
As long as the Eternabond Tape has a minimum of one inch of coverage on each side of the seam, it should be OK.
The gap or seam between the rear end cap should be scraped cleaned as well as possible and cleaned again with acetone or laquer thinner. Use masking tape around the edges of the gap and then force polyurethane into the gap, using a wet, gloved finger. Smooth the sealant and then immediately remove the tape and let sit until cured.
As usual, my preferred sealant is 3M 5200 FC.
Larry
Thank you Larry, I was waiting for some feedback and feel very relieved that I can get going. It's nice and cool here today so once I get it dried and recleaned with acetone I'm "going in"!
Best,
Mari
We tackled resealing our 98 ~ MB a couple weeks ago. The sealent was still in good condition from a reseal job in the past done by the previous owner. I think it is best tackled this job with two people. This is my first LD roof seal with Eternabond tape. I have done several other SOBs with metal roofs. I had previously resealed some hatches on our LD and relpaced our Emergency Escape with a Opening hatch with a fantastic fan Incorporated in it. We first cleaned our roof and then used a "finds tool" or ribrating tool to remove all old sealent on the front seam. We final cleaned with acetone and let it dry for an hour. The two of us applied the 4" Eternabond tape and it went on just fine. We decided to leave the old sealent on the two side seams since it was in good shape and we were planning to use the 6" Eternabond tape for those seams. We thought that having both systems in place would create a two level sealing job. We started on the Drivers side but had to run short strips to accommodate the Refrige vent and bath vent and skylight. We ended up using 4" in some of these placed to fit right and cleaned the sealent back where needed. When we got to the passenger seam the Eternabond tape got away from us a little, could not run it straight due to the uneven surface underneath so we had to cut it in shorter strips in some places. We overlapped at least 2" and the forward tape overlapped the rear tape at all times. We might have had about 4 to 5 overlaps on whole that side. We did achieve a minimum of 1 1/2" direct contact with each side of the roof or metal roof corner. My advice now is probably to remove all of the old material to get a better looking run and to use the 4" tape.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
(https://www.lazydazeowners.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4355)
(https://www.lazydazeowners.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4354)
My advice now is probably to remove all of the old material to get a better looking run and to use the 4" tape.
Looks great.
The 6" wide Eternabond Tape is much more difficult to use, compared to the 4". It is preferable for the front seam.
It took several years of sealing roofs before I attempted using the 6" tape, it does a nice job but it can go south quickly if you do not keep it stretched out and prevent the tape from flipping back on itself.
If you can handle the 6" tape, it does a better job, with twice the overlap on the roof seams.
Larry
Thanks Larry, we found that when two persons were applying the tape one person would hold the tape taught while the other would press the tape down from the center outward. The photo was taken later since we were using all of our hands applying the tape. This was more difficult when we had a surface under the tape that was not uniform and flat. Also I would suggest that more tape then the length of seams require for mistakes. We did a few times have the tape stick to itself before we got started and had to toss it. Now I have extra in case I need to do an emergency repair on the road!
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
(https://www.lazydazeowners.com/MGalleryItem.php?id=4356)
We first cleaned our roof and then used a "finds tool" or ribrating tool to remove all old sealent on the front seam.
What is a finds tool? You "ribrating tool" - did you mean an oscillating tool?
Thanks, Jane
Sorry Spell check changed it, Fein Multy-Master vibrating tool is used for plunge cutting wood and other materials but can be used with blades that do not have the teeth to remove sealers etc off flat surfaces.
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
Yay!! I'm finished! I know I won't win any blue ribbons, but my husband says it won't leak even if I back it into a lake.
Looks good, Karen and Liam. Lucky you to be working on it indoors. There were times I was removing caulk in the shade of a beach umbrella on it's side. (Privacy from prying eyes, too.) It was in the high 90's for sure. I love my oscillating tool and battery operated caulk gun. Never thought I would say that. I don't know how anyone could get old caulk off without the multi tool.
Here are a couple of pictures. Thanks again Larry, Joan and all those who posted their experiences.
The Fein Multimaster (https://www.amazon.com/72295264090-MultiMaster-StarlockPlus-Oscillating-Multi-Tool-dp-B01E73VU36/dp/B01E73VU36/ref=dp_ob_title_hi) oscillating tool is one of those things that you look at and go "I really don't need to spend that much money on such a specialized tool"... but when you eventually break down and buy one, you discover it has all kinds of uses.
(For example--going off-topic for a minute here--for less than twenty bucks you can get an accessory "blade" (https://www.harborfreight.com/electrical-box-cutout-saw-for-oscillating-multi-tools-56666.html) that cuts a perfect electrical box opening in drywall in under thirty seconds. That's pretty amazing.)
There are cheaper oscillating tools from other makers--heck, you can get one for $18.99 from Harbor Freight! But I don't think there are any better ones. I tried the Ryobi One+ oscillating tool first, since in general I'm a big fan of Ryobi's affordable tools, but it just didn't cut the way it should. Then I borrowed a friend's Fein Multimaster. What a difference!
When using an oscillating tool to remove caulk, be sure to get the most flexible scraper blades available. If possible, check them out in the store before buying. I started with a not-so-flexible blade and found it cutting right into the aluminum! I had to caulk that scar.
Now I have extra in case I need to do an emergency repair on the road!
A few feet of Eternabond Tape is in the repair kit is a good thing to carry, besides roof repairs, it works great on cracked holding tanks and other temporary repairs.
Larry
I also got the Fein multi master tool and one thing I really like is the ease of switching out different blades. You just move a lever up and the blade drops off. To put it back on you just position it over the blade and push down and it’s on. You can also offset the blade in different directions which was very helpful when it came to trying to scrape around a railing post.
Mari
We are in the process of putting solar panels on our 2004 MB. The "RV Repair Guy" in Long Beach wants to reseal the roof (it was resealed in 2020 at the factory). He wants to use Forever Coating and Forever Sealant, from The RV Roof Man. Anyone familiar with this product? There is a black fungus growing on the reseal. The rig is at the shop, I'll take pictures tomorrow. I'm not sure it is necessary, he probably is being proactive because of the panels.
I'm surprised it needs resealing after such a short time. Is it cracking or looking like there is a place it might leak? Can you get rid of the fungus another way? I'm sorry I don't know anything about the product you mentioned. I am interested to know how the solar panels go. I may want to add some and I'm not far from Long Beach. Good luck!
I'm surprised it needs resealing after such a short time.
Me too - I’m going to take a good look tomorrow and take photos. I think he was being proactive, I’m not sure it is necessary. But I thought I would go armed with knowledge.
I'm kind of a dunce when it comes to posting, but you might get more response if you start a new topic in Lazy Daze Technical, since this conversation is a few years old. Just an uneducated suggestion.
We are in the process of putting solar panels on our 2004 MB. The "RV Repair Guy" in Long Beach wants to reseal the roof (it was resealed in 2020 at the factory). He wants to use Forever Coating and Forever Sealant, from The RV Roof Man. Anyone familiar with this product? There is a black fungus growing on the reseal. The rig is at the shop, I'll take pictures tomorrow. I'm not sure it is necessary, he probably is being proactive because of the panels.
If the roof was resealed by the Mothership two years ago, it should not need resealing for many years. If the suggested resealing product is a liquid and comes in a can, used for coating the whole roof, I would pass. Full coatings are difficult to ever reseal and finding any future leaks is challenging. I found out the hard way many years ago.
On the other hand, roll-on roof coatings can be a nice profit center for an RV shop.
Try spraying the fungus with bleach or a mold removal product, PNW members can probably suggest products, mold isn't much of a problem in our LD's home environment.
Larry
My feeling is also that it is not necessary, just looking for backup! Yes, profit center is probably the underlying motive! I'll stop by today.
We used -LA's Totally Awesome All-Purpose Concentrated Cleaner- the last time we cleaned our 98~MB's roof in September. It was recommended on some RV website and worked the best of all the stuff we have tried in the past. The best part was that it is available at most Dollar Tree stores. We used most of the bottle in a 5 gallon bucket of water and directly in some stubborn places. Mold and mildew were all removed. ( I am not able to load photos now due to some system error )
Karen~Liam
98 ~ MB
NinA
My 2003 MB roof was resealed in the summer of 2019. I'll attempt a partial reseal this spring. The Texas summer sun has caused some breakdown of some of the sealant.
In the attached pic, you'll see some black sealant that was used. That is what is breaking down. When Lake Newton drains itself, I'll find lots of black flecks on the white paint (mostly the hood).
Yo, from a former Long Beach resident!
I do not believe mold is an issue. There is crazing - is this normal after 2 years from a factory reseal?
I don't know about the crazing, but it looks like that shoulder seam could use some additional caulking.
There is crazing - is this normal after 2 years from a factory reseal?
Did you own this LD when the Factory sealed the roof? Or if not, do you have a receipt from the Factory? Finally, if the answer is no to both questions, then I guessing the seller said the roof was resealed by the Factory.
The reason behind these questions is the material and the application doesn’t look like the work done by the LD Factory IMO.
Looking forward to your reply.
I do not believe mold is an issue. There is crazing - is this normal after 2 years from a factory reseal?
It looks like old Factory sealant, it has been more than two years since it was resealed. It doesn't look bad, the screw heads are not protruding yet. It is the perfect candidate for a layer of Eternabond over the seam.
Larry
Unfortunately, the rig is in the shop getting the solar & the old paperwork is on board. I do recall seeing a factory receipt for the roof sealing, new escape hatch, new domes, etc. Will verify when I can review the paperwork.