I used DAP (see pic) on my endcap seams but I found the durability to be lacking.
It also stays tacky for a long time and collects a dark grime look.
Any other suggestions and also how to remove the old sealer?
Hi Ted. Sounds to me like the sealant was too old (I've done this with white DAP), and didn't cure properly. Coming out of the tube is it really thick and 'chunky'? Krud Kutter, or Simple Green might take it off with some scrubbing. RonB
Hi Ted. Sounds to me like the sealant was too old (I've done this with white DAP), and didn't cure properly. Coming out of the tube is it really thick and 'chunky'? Krud Kutter, or Simple Green might take it off with some scrubbing. RonB
Okay thanks.
Is this the correct sealer to use though?
Clear sealant is only clear until dirt bombards it. At that point it is the color of the dirt and whatever mold it attracts. Ideally, use a color close to the color of the parts you are adhering, or at least paintable . Make certain the DAP sealant has no silicone at all, because if it does, resealing may be impossible without cleaning down to bare metal first. 3M fast-cure 5200 is the standard for sealing.
Steve
Clear sealant is only clear until dirt bombards it. At that point it is the color of the dirt and whatever mold it attracts. Ideally, use a color close to the color of the parts you are adhering, or at least paintable . Make certain the DAP sealant has no silicone at all, because if it does, resealing may be impossible without cleaning down to bare metal first. 3M fast-cure 5200 is the standard for sealing.
Steve
I think this sealer does not contain silicone fortunately.