I've read everything, pretty much, and checked everything as much as I can. The problem: It works almost all the time but occasionally quits either in or out. Before too long it starts working again. And will continue to work flawlessly until it doesn't.
Any ideas? One probably useless clue is that it has now quit a couple days after I lubed it. Frank
We had our electric step, along with the radio, go rogue when one of the house batteries died. Give that a check.
TinaP
former owner of 2006 26.5 MB "Wild Thing"
now off having more adventures with others
I've read everything, pretty much, and checked everything as much as I can. The problem: It works almost all the time but occasionally quits either in or out. Before too long it starts working again. And will continue to work flawlessly until it doesn't.
Any ideas? One probably useless clue is that it has now quit a couple days after I lubed it. Frank
Frank, why don't you tell us what you've checked and maybe someone will think of something you missed that needs checking.
Chris
Hi Frank; First thing I would check is the screen door switch. In the act of lubrication, did you bump the multi-pin connector? It could be an intermittant connection inside the socket/plug. RonB
house batteries seem to be normal - screen door switch looks ok
How old are your house batteries?
TinaP
You should have an owner's manual for the step in the packet LD provides with new units. The manual has an excellent troubleshooting guide and full electrical schematic.
http://techsupport.pdxrvwholesale.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Kwikee-Electric-Step-Owners-Manual-Document-888.pdf
I have seen more problems with the main power plug, under the step and make sure it is tightly plugged in. Pull the plug apart and see if the contact appear to be clean. The plug is exposed to road spray and the contacts can corrode.
If the plug's pins are clean, or after cleaning the pins, give the contact surfaces a good coating of dielectric grease, packing it in. The excess will squeeze out. This treatment helps eliminate corrosion by keeping water and road salts away from the contacts. Good stuff, every LD needs a tube of this for use on low voltage electrical contacts.
Amazon.com: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=dielectric+grease&qid=1590714855&sr=8-2)
Also check the plug on the motor.
The next thing to check is the magnetic switch, make sure the magnetic is still present on the screen door. The sensor in the door frame can also go bad. The switch can be checked with a small magnet.
I have seen every part go bad on these steps except the control box.
Larry
thanks, Larry. Original house batteries - 2016
Thx for this thread...had this a couple of years back, but have since been blest with the spontaneous regeneration of inanimate objects. However, there continues to be something awry with the bypass switch that keeps the step out, so I'm left with the thing opening/closing whenever the screen door is used... :P This is a good reminder that I need to lube that mechanism...thx.
Lynne
However, there continues to be something awry with the bypass switch that keeps the step out, so I'm left with the thing opening/closing whenever the screen door is used... :
The black magnet on the screen door activates the magnetic reed switch, located in the door frame.
When the door opens, the steps extends and then retracts when the door is closed.
This action is controlled by the wall switch, in one position, the step extends when the door opens and stays there, this position is used when parked.
The other position allows the steps to extend and retract as the screen door opens and closes. Use this position when on the road.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49948941996_700c9e322f_w.jpg)
Larry
Thx, Larry. With my limited knowledge of such things, I sort of understand that there's some sort of circuit connecting the wall switch to the door switch, and that "in one position, the step extends when the door opens and stays there, this position is used when parked. The other position allows the steps to extend and retract as the screen door opens and closes. Use this position when on the road." and it did work that way at one time.
Now, however, no matter which direction the wall switch is flipped (up or down), through the various permutations A) door closed-switch off-door opened then switch flipped on while step deployed...step stows when door closed B) door closed-switch on prior to opening door (deploys step)...step stows when door closes B) door open for a time with step deployed for that period with switch in off position, then flipped on...step stows when door closes D) door open for a time with step deployed for that period with switch in on position, then flipped off--wait 60 seconds--flipped back on...step stows when door closes. In all cases, the step deploys/stows at the behest of the door & is unresponsive to the switch (which I know enough to think the switch is faulty...) Also, according to the manual the step is supposed to automatically stow when the ignition is turned on, but back in the day when the wall panel switch worked, I forgot to stow, & slightly bent the step :P when I hit a high spot in the pasture--dirt, not stone or stump--(when dumping the tank at the farm I then partially fill with soap/H2O & then drive about to slosh, before the final dump).
Anyway, at least the thing opens & I'm not stepping out into the abyss with my short legs (back before the spontaneous regeneration of the step there were a few times I thought a trapeze net would have been helpful ::) .
Thx, again--
Lynne
Our electric step is my least favorite and most often repaired accessory on our Lazy Daze.
Harold
thanks, Larry. Original house batteries - 2016
On my 2005 Jayco Class C, the steps are driven by the engine battery. Aren't they all that way?
Anyway, at least the thing opens & I'm not stepping out into the abyss with my short legs (back before the spontaneous regeneration of the step there were a few times I thought a trapeze net would have been helpful ::) .
I would check the hidden door fuse. It's a 5-amp fuse, usually accessed by removing the screws securing the door switch to the wall.
Pull the switch, and the wires inside, away from the wall a short distance to find the inline fuse.
Larry
On my 2005 Jayco Class C, the steps are driven by the engine battery. Aren't they all that way?
Our 2003 LD's electric step is powered by the coach battery, the 20-amp fuse is in the coach battery compartment, on the back wall. The step's controller has a connection to the ignition, it closes the step when the ignition is turned on.
Larry
I would check the hidden door fuse. It's a 5-amp fuse, usually accessed by removing the screws securing the door switch to the wall.
Pull the switch, and the wires inside, away from the wall a short distance to find the inline fuse.
Larry
Well, like Alice down the rabbit hole, things are "...curiouser and curiouser..." There are various wires that come out of the switch plate that are bundled in black electric tape before disappearing up into a hole in a wooden block in the wall, but nothing that looks like a fuse (there's an inline fuse on the sprayer I use at the farm, so at least I knew what to look for).
From door/Left to Right:
Porch Light --
two yellow wires from the
bottom connection that disappear into the black-taped-bundle
--
two red wires with yellow stripe on the
top connection...one disappears into the bundle & the other loops over into the
top connection of the
Entry
Light, which is then looped over into the
middle connection of
Utility LightElectric Step --
one red wire from the
top connection &
one white wire from the
bottom connection that both disappear into the the black-taped-bundle
Entry Light --
two red wires with yellow stripe on the
top connection...one loops back to the
Porch Light & the other loops over into the
middle connection of
the
Utility Light --
one black wire from the
bottom connection that disappears into the black-taped-bundle
Utility Light --
one white wire from the
top connection disappears into the black-taped-bundle
--
one red wire with yellow stripe looped from the top connection of the
Porch Light to the
middle connection --
one black wire from the
bottom connection that disappears into the black-taped-bundle
I tried to figure out how to attach a photo from the Macbook PhotoBooth, but my techno-illiteracy is flaming...& my brain is spinning. ::) :P Anyway, thx to all--
Lynne
[/u]
I have a manual step, but also used this Safety Step® for several years.
Folding Step Stool for Sale | since 1972 | 44-1504 (https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/entertainment-comfort-camping/rv-steps-rv-step-parts-ladders/folding-steps/safety-step-stool_44-1504)
I have the large model with non-adjustable legs; the larger platform area is safer than the smaller model, IMO. The legs fold flat against the platform and lock in place when pulled out. I set the Safety Step in front of, or slightly under, the rig's step. The SS's leg configuration makes it very stable; it doesn't tip even if one steps on a corner. It's a bit pricey, but a very useful item.
Lynne
Check your LD's Owners Manual the section on the electric step.
Our manual shows the location of the 5-amp door fuse, it's separate from the main fuse. It should be connected to the switch, somewhere along the circuit.
Larry
On our 2006 30 ft. The 5 amp fuse for the steps is in the outside refrigerator compartment right by the door.
Our electric step is my least favorite and most often repaired accessory on our Lazy Daze.
Harold
When I ordered, Todd talked me out of the electric step because of the reliability issues
Linda
Lynne
Check your LD's Owners Manual the section on the electric step.
Our manual shows the location of the 5-amp door fuse, it's separate from the main fuse. It should be connected to the switch, somewhere along the circuit.
Larry
Thx, Larry. I missed seeing a schematic/diagram; I just remember text about operating the step. I'll check that section of the manual again.
On our 2006 30 ft. The 5 amp fuse for the steps is in the outside refrigerator compartment right by the door.
Thx, gmfl. That would be much easier to get to than behind the bottom drawer under the fridge,
This rather reminds me of the time I tried to fry chicken as a newlywed--I had no idea what "fork tender" meant in the wedding gift cookbook ::) ...it finally began to make sense when I'd been around the church basement ladies who cooked "by guess & by gosh" for a while (I learned a lot, including that The Colonel's chicken was better & easier ;D ).
Lynne
Back out to the farm, with this new information, to re-read the manual (what a concept--no pictures, but it's all there in black & white ::) :-[) & check fuses.
Checked both the 5 amp mini-fuse previously suggested, and also the 20 amp mini-fuse referenced in the manual. Both looked intact to my untrained eye, so thought I'd take them back into town & buy new/spares as the case might be. Then came the "Duh" moment--the step would not retract when I closed the door...well, yeah, "Duh"--the fuses are in my pocket. ::) :-[)
So another opportunity for testing: *re-inserting the 5 amp mini-fuse--no movement
*re-inserting the 20 amp mini-fuse--step stows
*removing the 5 amp mini-fuse/leaving in the 20 amp mini-fuse--step deploys and stows
*going through the above steps with various permutations of switch operation as previously
discussed still seems to produce no effect from switch
Also, while exploring the house battery box looking for the 20 amp mini-fuse, I discovered a black box app. 2" square, with a yellow lever type switch, connected to the battery cables. I've read previous discussions, & found a discussion in the manual, about a battery disconnect switch that could be used to prevent battery drainage during storage. Thought "Aha!" Turned on the Entry Light, thinking it would be the easiest to see go out, flipped the yellow switch up (since down was the obviously default operating position), but no change--power was not disconnected from the house batts to the lights.
Typing that, I come to another question: If the disconnect switch is used during storage, am I right in assuming that would mean no power to the Trik-L-Start at the chassis battery?
Thx to all--
Lynne
Hi Lynne; Yes, disconnecting the house batteries would make the Trik-L-Start not work, maybe. If you have solar panels and there is enough sunlight, the entry light might stay lit even with the house batteries off. The Trik-L-Start might still charge the chassis battery during daylight.
You should carry a selection of ATC fuses for the LD's power distribution panel. Mini-ATC fuses for the Ford fuse panel. You might pick some miscellaneous spare fuses for other things too. The CB radio and car entertainment radio on my '99 are tubular glass fuses, but your newer 2005 might have more (now standard) fuses. RonB
<snip>
Also, while exploring the house battery box looking for the 20 amp mini-fuse, I discovered a black box app. 2" square, with a yellow lever type switch, connected to the battery cables. I've read previous discussions, & found a discussion in the manual, about a battery disconnect switch that could be used to prevent battery drainage during storage. Thought "Aha!" Turned on the Entry Light, thinking it would be the easiest to see go out, flipped the yellow switch up (since down was the obviously default operating position), but no change--power was not disconnected from the house batts to the lights.
Thx to all--
Lynne
That black box may not be a disconnect swith, but actually a circuit breaker. It may be the type where the switch only resets it once it pops, so that might explain why you didn't see any change in power. Was it at the very back of the house battery box?
Also, while exploring the house battery box looking for the 20 amp mini-fuse, I discovered a black box app. 2" square, with a yellow lever type switch, connected to the battery cables. I've read previous discussions, & found a discussion in the manual, about a battery disconnect switch that could be used to prevent battery drainage during storage. Thought "Aha!" Turned on the Entry Light, thinking it would be the easiest to see go out, flipped the yellow switch up (since down was the obviously default operating position), but no change--power was not disconnected from the house batts to the lights.
If that was the battery disconnect switch, it DOES take the batteries out of the system. However, the batteries are not the ONLY source of 12V power. You may disconnect the shorepower so your converter is not supplying power, but if you have solar, then you must also disconnect the fuse from the charge controller, or it will supply another 12V source in daylight.
Steve
Thx, all, for the responses. I do carry spare fuses in the Power Center, but appreciate the suggestions for additional spares.
The rig is inside the the machine shed, & though there are a couple of white roof panels to let light in, there is no solar charging when inside; also, no shore power, so the only power would be from the Lifeline house batts (I don't use the gen inside, even with all the big doors open).
The little black box is immediately inside the batt compartment on the right wall, just below the top of the compartment. I wondered if it might be a circuit breaker because "reset" is printed on the box next to the yellow lever in the vertical/operational position. So, If I have a separate "disconnect" switch, where would that be, & what might it look like?
It's sometimes been several weeks between visits during snowy weather, and though I've never had difficulty starting with the chassis batt, the house batts have been deeply discharged a few times (I'm assuming the house batts & Trik-L-Start were keeping the chassis batt happy), hence my thought about disconnecting. So, questions: A) If I disconnect the house batts, & therefore disable the Trik-L-Start, how might that affect the chassis batt? B) Would reconnecting the house batts, & enabling the Trik-L-Start, make the chassis batt happy again? I don't want to get stuck inside the shed & have to juggle equipment around to jumpstart the LD.
Finally, back to that weird step: I have general understanding of circuits & fuses from a long-ago 5th grade science class. What is perplexing me is that the 5 amp fuse seemed to have no affect (in or out)--just like the switch. Only the 20 amp fuse affected the step operation. ..."curiouser & curiouser"
Off to mask & vote (school board & municipal, since MO is still in the dark ages on no-excuse absentee voting), & then ride the Baby Deere across the yard ahead of the coming storms. Best to those of y'all facing challenges that haven't come to the boonies of north Missouri (though the farmers are dealing with some flooding from last week).
Lynne
Hi Lynne. I just want to repeat that the Trik-L-Start only charges the chassis battery when the house batteries are Being Charged. The house batteries at rest are 12.7 to 12.85 volts. That isn't enough to get up to the threshold of 13.2 volts to start the chassis battery charging. If that weren't that way, you could end up with all of the batteries dead at once.
The word 'Reset' is a giveaway that that box is a circuit breaker that can be reset. Pushing that button won't turn it off, it just resets it if it has tripped.
I included a picture of my shut off breaker. Red button trips it, red lever pops open and is used to reset it. DC Circuit Breaker Inline Fuse Inverter Waterproof Manual Reset 300 Amp... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Circuit-Breaker-Inline-Fuse-Inverter-Waterproof-Manual-Reset-300-Amp-12V-24V/383339212762?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D0220d5f7098e45bdb708214e9831b44b%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D223833312017%26itm%3D383339212762%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1) RonB
Thx, all, for the responses. I do carry spare fuses in the Power Center, but appreciate the suggestions for additional spares.
The rig is inside the the machine shed, & though there are a couple of white roof panels to let light in, there is no solar charging when inside; also, no shore power, so the only power would be from the Lifeline house batts (I don't use the gen inside, even with all the big doors open).
The little black box is immediately inside the batt compartment on the right wall, just below the top of the compartment. I wondered if it might be a circuit breaker because "reset" is printed on the box next to the yellow lever in the vertical/operational position. So, If I have a separate "disconnect" switch, where would that be, & what might it look like?
It's sometimes been several weeks between visits during snowy weather, and though I've never had difficulty starting with the chassis batt, the house batts have been deeply discharged a few times (I'm assuming the house batts & Trik-L-Start were keeping the chassis batt happy), hence my thought about disconnecting. So, questions: A) If I disconnect the house batts, & therefore disable the Trik-L-Start, how might that affect the chassis batt? B) Would reconnecting the house batts, & enabling the Trik-L-Start, make the chassis batt happy again? I don't want to get stuck inside the shed & have to juggle equipment around to jumpstart the LD.
Finally, back to that weird step: I have general understanding of circuits & fuses from a long-ago 5th grade science class. What is perplexing me is that the 5 amp fuse seemed to have no affect (in or out)--just like the switch. Only the 20 amp fuse affected the step operation. ..."curiouser & curiouser"
Off to mask & vote (school board & municipal, since MO is still in the dark ages on no-excuse absentee voting), & then ride the Baby Deere across the yard ahead of the coming storms. Best to those of y'all facing challenges that haven't come to the boonies of north Missouri (though the farmers are dealing with some flooding from last week).
Lynne
Lynne, look in your manual and find Diagram #5 at the very end. Looking at the battery diagrams to the right you will see 2 blurbs referencing CIRCUIT BREAKER MANUAL RESET - a 12v, 100 amp and 12v 50 amp. In my '02 30', only the 100 amp is there and it's on the back wall of the bat. compartment. I suspect the black box on the right in your LD is the 100 amp fuse. I've never found the 50 amp fuse. I have no idea if the yellow lever is a bat. disconnect. My LD is under a canopy and I use the factory disconnect and it has served me well over the last two winters. The batteries never discharged when the disconnect was activated.
Chris
Thx, Ron, for educating me about the Trik-L-Start. My kids' father had one 30+ years ago for the little Ford9N tractor he used to feed silage in the winter...I didn't know anything beyond he plugged it in & it made sure the tractor started . Thx, also, for the photo--was that original fro the Mothership, or added later?
Thx, Chris! I think there was also "30 amp" printed on the little black box on the wall. I'll write this down/put with the LD keys the next time I go to the farm. Does your disconnect switch look like the one in Ron's photo? Since you've done this, 'nother question: Do you have a Trik-L-Start, or what happens to your chassis batt during storage--what should I be doing differently than just pulling into the shed & shutting the doors. By the way, I don't do anything to the tractor battery during the months it's unattended...
Like Dory in Finding Nemo, I just keep "swimming...swimming...swimming" in this ocean of information--I do appreciate the life preservers thrown out. :D
Lynne
"Does your disconnect switch look like the one in Ron's photo? Since you've done this, 'nother question: Do you have a Trik-L-Start, or what happens to your chassis batt during storage--what should I be doing differently than just pulling into the shed & shutting the doors."
No. Photo attached of Steve K's disconnect.The red switch between the bats. I bought the same device from the Mothership 2 years ago.
No Trik-L-Start
The chassis (truck) battery survives just fine without any additional charging. In 18 years it never has failed to start the LD when I start it up in the spring or earlier if I take a winter trip. I'm 6 years into my 3rd truck battery. If your truck/chassis battery is in fine fettle, it should not give you a problem during its winter nap.
Chris
Hi Lynne; No, that trippable breaker/switch is an upgrade I haven't got to yet. To address your other question, the 20 Amp fuse is for the power to the step (motor). The 5 amp fuse is for the power from the engine key to tell the step to retract when you start the engine in case the 'don't operate each time the screen/coach door is opened/shut is active. A guess on my part since I don't have that step or the schematics.
You mentioned a yellow handle in reply #25, so maybe you have an added 'trippable' circuit breaker like this: MRCB 187100F-03-1 100 Amp DC Circuit Breaker | Northern Arizona Wind & Sun (https://www.solar-electric.com/mrcb-100-amp-dc-circuit-breaker.html)
When someone has the factory option shut off switch, you should get one of these, and a delete of the standard 100A black breaker in the back of the battery box. RonB
Hi Lynne; No, that trippable breaker/switch is an upgrade I haven't got to yet. To address your other question, the 20 Amp fuse is for the power to the step (motor). The 5 amp fuse is for the power from the engine key to tell the step to retract when you start the engine in case the 'don't operate each time the screen/coach door is opened/shut is active. A guess on my part since I don't have that step or the schematics.
You mentioned a yellow handle in reply #25, so maybe you have an added 'trippable' circuit breaker like this: MRCB 187100F-03-1 100 Amp DC Circuit Breaker | Northern Arizona Wind & Sun (https://www.solar-electric.com/mrcb-100-amp-dc-circuit-breaker.html)
When someone has the factory option shut off switch, you should get one of these, and a delete of the standard 100A black breaker in the back of the battery box. RonB
Ron, were I to install such a replacement breaker and do it safely, would activating the battery disconnect and pulling the solar panel fuse be all I needed to do to avoid crispy critterness? No shore power, of course.
Chris
Hi Lynne. I just want to repeat that the Trik-L-Start only charges the chassis battery when the house batteries are Being Charged. The house batteries at rest are 12.7 to 12.85 volts. That isn't enough to get up to the threshold of 13.2 volts to start the chassis battery charging. If that weren't that way, you could end up with all of the batteries dead at once.
The word 'Reset' is a giveaway that that box is a circuit breaker that can be reset. Pushing that button won't turn it off, it just resets it if it has tripped.
I included a picture of my shut off breaker. Red button trips it, red lever pops open and is used to reset it. DC Circuit Breaker Inline Fuse Inverter Waterproof Manual Reset 300 Amp... (https://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-Circuit-Breaker-Inline-Fuse-Inverter-Waterproof-Manual-Reset-300-Amp-12V-24V/383339212762?_trkparms=aid%3D1110001%26algo%3DSPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160323102634%26meid%3D0220d5f7098e45bdb708214e9831b44b%26pid%3D100623%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D5%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd%3D223833312017%26itm%3D383339212762%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2047675&_trksid=p2047675.c100623.m-1) RonB
Ron, where will you install this reset device?
Chris
Hi Chris; Yes it would disconnect the house batteries. You could put a second smaller one to disconnect the solar separately. You actually can just let the solar go (don't need to disconnect the solar controller). A lot of nothing will happen without the batteries.
I have had the floor of my battery box give way (separate) on the right side. About 1/2" gap. That is right above my generator. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what happened. I'm replacing the slides with full extension slides, and plan to lower the floor about 1/2". A welder friend donated a few feet of #1 very flexible cable. I'm going to install a buss bar for +12v and a ground, I'll lose a bit at the back of my vanity cabinet inside. Only the flex cables will slide out. I may put that breaker/disconnect switch at the back of the battery box, where presently I have the factory 100A circuit breaker. The goal is Trojan size 145 batteries, for a little more capacity, or maybe a switch to Battleborn LiFePO4. I'll take pictures to bore everybody with. RonB
Hi Chris; Yes it would disconnect the house batteries. You could put a second smaller one to disconnect the solar separately. You actually can just let the solar go (don't need to disconnect the solar controller). A lot of nothing will happen without the batteries.
I have had the floor of my battery box give way (separate) on the right side. About 1/2" gap. That is right above my generator. I haven't taken it apart yet to see what happened. I'm replacing the slides with full extension slides, and plan to lower the floor about 1/2". A welder friend donated a few feet of #1 very flexible cable. I'm going to install a buss bar for +12v and a ground, I'll lose a bit at the back of my vanity cabinet inside. Only the flex cables will slide out. I may put that breaker/disconnect switch at the back of the battery box, where presently I have the factory 100A circuit breaker. The goal is Trojan size 145 batteries, for a little more capacity, or maybe a switch to Battleborn LiFePO4. I'll take pictures to bore everybody with. RonB
Thanks, Ron, Your photos and comments are never boring. I'm going to replace my batteries soon at which time adding that circuit breaker would be easier.
Chris
Lynne, look in your manual and find Diagram #5 at the very end. Looking at the battery diagrams to the right you will see 2 blurbs referencing CIRCUIT BREAKER MANUAL RESET - a 12v, 100 amp and 12v 50 amp. In my '02 30', only the 100 amp is there and it's on the back wall of the bat. compartment. I suspect the black box on the right in your LD is the 100 amp fuse. I've never found the 50 amp fuse. I
The 100-amp breaker, on the rear wall of the battery box, disconnects the coach battery from the battery isolator.
(https://live.staticflickr.com/2329/2229546079_612732e55d_w.jpg)
Switching it to the 'off' position will not stop the coach battery from discharging, it will prevent the engine's alternator from charging the coach battery, when the engine is running. You can see the 20-amp fuse for the electric step attached tot he right side of the breaker.
The 50-amp circuit breaker is the 'hidden' fuse, located within 2' of the coach battery, it's location is not specified in the Owners Manual, you have to disassemble things inside to find it.
In our 2003 FL, it's hidden in a covered chase, along with other wires going into the battery compartment from the inside of the rig.
Without an actual coach battery switch, the battery cannot be disconnected without unbolting and removing a battery cable.
I suggest getting a lithium battery jumper to use in case the starting battery dies, this will make jumping a much easier task. Beats having to move other equipment to use jumper cables.
Larry
This entire thread has reinforced the thought that I won’t be getting an electric step. Simpler is better!
This entire thread has reinforced the thought that I won’t be getting an electric step. Simpler is better!
You can think what you like but when the wife says 'we are getting the electric step!", it may be time to reconsider. YMMV
Larry
You can think what you like but when the wife says 'we are getting the electric step!", it may be time to reconsider. YMMV
Larry
I hear you, Larry. I meant to say “if DW allows it” heh, heh, heh!
Good decision Greg. Get the step. It will give you something to repair when out on trips.
Thx to all for such an enlightening discussion & pictures.
Yes, Ron, the black box looks like the one in your link.
I'll take all this with me the next time I go to the farm. If I don't see anything identifiable from this thread, it's time to go back to the wizards near Kansas City to get one installed. This is obviously way above my paygrade--at least I know enough to know that I don't know enough! :D
Lynne
Hi Larry; I thought that breaker in the back of the battery box was for the load side of the house batteries. So you're saying that it is for the line coming in from the battery isolator? The diode is only rated for 70 Amps, so a 100Amp breaker won't save that.
Pretty sure I don't have any heavy duty cables coming in from the diode isolator. Maybe a #8 wire. Does that mean the unknown location 50 A breaker is load protection for the batteries? I'd look in my LD manual, but I haven't been able to find that for about 20 years. Haven't actuallu trace the wires from that breaker. I didn't buy an isolator switch. More problem than they were worth. RonB
Still, either of those switch/breakers could be used as a battery disconnect. Placed between the batteries, or my choice, in the ground lead of the pair of house batteries.
Now my step does not work. It's not retracting - not when closing the screen door (independent from the switch position) and not when starting the engine. I noticed just half an hour ago. It might not have been working since a while. All three breakers (behind the switch, behind the batteries, in the breaker panel) are good.
When the step switch has the top side "down" I can hear a click when I close the screen door (also when I come close to the contact on the door frame with a magnet), when the step switch has the bottom side "down" I hear nothing. Besides the click I hear anyway nothing (like an attempt from the motor to move).
Can I use the step as a manual step when I disconnect the arm from the motor? That would be best for me for the time being. Doing that should be fairly easy by taking out the pin from the arm and then moving the parts away from each other.
How risky is it to drive with an extended step in the country side (not in cities)?
Klaus
I have seen more problems with the main power plug, under the step and make sure it is tightly plugged in. Pull the plug apart and see if the contact appear to be clean.
Do you mean by "main power plug" what is called "four-way connector" in the diagram, or what else is this? Or do you mean the two-way connector that according to the step test procedures in the manual can be used to check whether the motor is working?
Klaus
PS: My manual has #875 and is from 1999, the one to which you posted a link is #888 and is from 2017.
Well, I managed. I followed the procedure from the manual for testing the motor (with the help of a jumper cable and some "extension" cables). For that I had to disconnect the two-way connector under the step and then connect the cables from the engine battery in a certain way with the two-way connector leading to the motor. The motor worked and the step moved in and out as it should.
When I reconnected the two-way connector the step still worked. What a magic! I never ever before touched this two-way connector, and it is connecting both ends super firm. I actually don't think this was a bad connection. Could it be that something got "reset" by disconnecting and reconnecting the power from the motor?
Now I only have to clean up. First the tools and cables, then myself. I look like a mechanic after a hard day's work. It's truly no fun to work under the extended step in the dirt. But - no complaints here. I did it, I'm grateful (also to the information in this thread), and I learned something. I will stay with some satisfaction for the night where I am right now - Koosharam Reservoir - and travel tomorrow to Capitol Reef National Park (where I will be for four days without Internet).
Klaus
Well, I managed. I followed the procedure from the manual for testing the motor (with the help of a jumper cable and some "extension" cables). For that I had to disconnect the two-way connector under the step and then connect the cables from the engine battery in a certain way with the two-way connector leading to the motor. The motor worked and the step moved in and out as it should.
When I reconnected the two-way connector the step still worked. What a magic! I never ever before touched this two-way connector, and it is connecting both ends super firm. I actually don't think this was a bad connection. Could it be that something got "reset" by disconnecting and reconnecting the power from the motor?
Now I only have to clean up. First the tools and cables, then myself. I look like a mechanic after a hard day's work. It's truly no fun to work under the extended step in the dirt. But - no complaints here. I did it, I'm grateful (also to the information in this thread), and I learned something. I will stay with some satisfaction for the night where I am right now - Koosharam Reservoir - and travel tomorrow to Capitol Reef National Park (where I will be for four days without Internet).
Klaus
By the end of this year, Klaus, you'll be a certified shade tree mechanic.
Chris
Klaus said, "When I reconnected the two-way connector the step still worked. What a magic! I never ever before touched this two-way connector, and it is connecting both ends super firm. I actually don't think this was a bad connection. Could it be that something got "reset" by disconnecting and reconnecting the power from the motor?"
I am always thankful for the spontaneous regeneration of inanimate objects! :D Congratulations on this successful endeavor. This is still a project in my future.
Lynne
Well, I managed. I followed the procedure from the manual for testing the motor (with the help of a jumper cable and some "extension" cables). For that I had to disconnect the two-way connector under the step and then connect the cables from the engine battery in a certain way with the two-way connector leading to the motor. The motor worked and the step moved in and out as it should.
When I reconnected the two-way connector the step still worked. What a magic! I never ever before touched this two-way connector, and it is connecting both ends super firm. I actually don't think this was a bad connection. Could it be that something got "reset" by disconnecting and reconnecting the power from the motor?
.
I look like a mechanic after a hard day's work it's truly no fun to work under the extended step in the dirt.
If all you did was disconnect and reconnect the plug, very good chance the plug pins are dirty. I would fill the plug with dielectric grease and work the plug a few times to establish a good connection. Do the same to the four-pin, main plug too.
For working on the road, to keep out of the dirt, I carry a small tarp and a good size sheet of cardboard, folded and stored under the couch's cushion.
Larry