I'm finally tackling the rotted wood behind my bumper (which might be coming from leaks down the rear wall :o ) and I'm looking for advice on the best way to remove the bolts. They're painted over on the exterior bumper side so I'm guessing I have to remove that paint somehow. Do I just chisel or scrape it away? Acetone maybe? Angle grinder perhaps?
**UPDATE**
Well, I removed the lower rear driver side end cap today and here's what I found.
Wow Howard, really awkward to view your photos. Maybe you could attach them some other way? You could use an exacto knife just to trace around the head. Likely you don't need to do anything on the outside though. The paint should break around the head as it is removed. Just remove the nut and washer from the inside part of the screw, and drive it out with a hammer. If you want to preserve the screw, you might want to protect the threads. Me, I would replace the screws with stainless new ones. You could try painting the heads with touch-up. I would leave them natural. I'm interested to see how bad the wood rot is. How far it extends up into the back wall. RonB
Wow Howard, really awkward to view your photos. Maybe you...
How are they showing up for you as they look fine to view on my end? I think, I hope, that it's just bad on the sides as the end caps were not sealed properly when I bought it (something else I'm doing).
I tried to hammer them out last night (didn't spend more than a few minutes trying though) and thought I might need to do some additional prep to remove; I'll try again today and spend more time on it.
I'm gonna remove the end caps today and I'll put up some pictures.
If the 1/4" nuts are too rusted to unbolt, cutting the nuts with a small angle grinder, with a metal cutting disc, would be my choice. After the nuts are cut off, the remains of the carriage bolts then can be driven out from the backside.
The bumper can remain bolted to the frame, it doesn't need to be removed to repair the damage.
After the bolts are removed, the rotted wood can be removed, it may be necessary to use a hacksaw blade to cut any remaining staples. I use a vibratory tool, with a wood cutting blade, to cut the rot damaged bottom board into smaller pieces, easing the removal process. If only one side is rotted, a partial replacement of the board is possible.
Mid-Baths often have leaking rear windows, the three pieces of glass can loosen and leak, and the sealant around the exterior of the window frame shrinks and also can leak. Make sure to reseal around the frame and that water does not enter between the glass and rubber molding, using a hose to check the window seals.
Larry
How are they showing up for you as they look fine to view on my end?
They don't show up at all for me. I have to click on them to download them. I notice they are tiff's, I wonder if that's the reason.
I've tried both Firefox and Chrome. Firefox shows white boxes the apparent size of the pictures. Chrome doesn't show anything.
They don't show up at all for me. I have to click on them to download them. I notice they are tiff's, I wonder if that's the reason.
I've tried both Firefox and Chrome. Firefox shows white boxes the apparent size of the pictures. Chrome doesn't show anything.
yes...probably the file type. how do they look now?
yes...probably the file type. how do they look now?
I see them fine now!
Yess, much better now. I'm using Chrome. RonB
If the 1/4" nuts are too rusted to unbolt, cutting the nuts with a small angle grinder, with a metal cutting disc, would be my choice. After the nuts are cut off, the remains of the carriage bolts then can be driven out from the backside.
The bumper can remain bolted to the frame, it doesn't need to be removed to repair the damage.
After the bolts are removed, the rotted wood can be removed, it may be necessary to use a hacksaw blade to cut any remaining staples. I use a vibratory tool, with a wood cutting blade, to cut the rot damaged bottom board into smaller pieces, easing the removal process. If only one side is rotted, a partial replacement of the board is possible.
Mid-Baths often have leaking rear windows, the three pieces of glass can loosen and leak, and the sealant around the exterior of the window frame shrinks and also can leak. Make sure to reseal around the frame and that water does not enter between the glass and rubber molding, using a hose to check the window seals.
Larry
I was able to get the nuts removed pretty easily with my impact wrench and a deep well bit, the bolts however are proving to be quite a challenge. Are you saying that I don't need to remove them or the bumper? Seems like removing the bolts/bumper would make cleaning out the rot and positioning the new piece of wood much easier no?
Here are a few more of the wood rot after picking at it for about 5 minutes. I'm using a multitool with oscillating blade to cut stuff up.
After looking at it a little longer, I think I get what you're saying. The bumper can stay bolted to the tow hitch/frame of the undercarriage but remove the carriage bolts driven through the rotted wood. Did I get that right?
After looking at it a little longer, I think I get what you're saying. The bumper can stay bolted to the tow hitch/frame of the undercarriage but remove the carriage bolts driven through the rotted wood. Did I get that right?
That's correct. The carriage bolts need to be removed first.
Good chance they will be badly rusted and in need of replacement.
When the rear wall is intact, the bumper's 90-degree flange and the carriage bolts add a lot of strength to the bumper, bolts in good condition are an asset.
Larry
Thank you guys for your help...I was able to start getting bolts out. My fear is always that I’ll try things that wind up causing more damage that needs to be repaired.
One interesting note, the wood beam was much softer and rotten on the ends than in the middle so I suspect that means the leaks weren’t coming from the window/middle but down the end caps...don’t you?
Hi Howard. I think your aprehension about making things worse is universal for all of us. I remember my wifes reponse to me taking a router to a brand new multi $$$ dining room table just minutes after getting it home.... Still have it after 40 years.
Yes, I think the leaks on my friends 2001, were at the joint in the end caps. RonB
[quote author=downgrader date=1588197112 link=msg=215141
One interesting note, the wood beam was much softer and rotten on the ends than in the middle so I suspect that means the leaks weren’t coming from the window/middle but down the end caps...don’t you?
[/quote]
End cap leaks is the most likely source of water leaking, it's hard to know without opening up the rear wall.
Once the bottom board has been removed, spray the back wall with a hose and then look for water leak, coming down the inside of the rear wall.
Since LD seals the bottom of the wall with a layer of polyurethane, water that leaks into the wall can be trapped and migrate sideways. Providing a way for water that penetrates a building's structure to exit is a basic design requirement.
Leaving the bottom board unsealed might be the best approach until you are sure that the leaks) have been sealed.
After completing the repairs, a comprehensive resealing of the end caps, the rear window frame and glass panes is suggested.
Larry
[quote author=downgrader date=1588197112 link=msg=215141
One interesting note, the wood beam was much softer and rotten on the ends than in the middle so I suspect that means the leaks weren’t coming from the window/middle but down the end caps...don’t you?
End cap leaks is the most likely source of water leaking, it's hard to know without opening up the rear wall.
Once the bottom board has been removed
Got it...thank you Larry.
Well, I started tearing out the rotted wood and am now completely at a loss. The passenger side rear section was rotted all the way up to where rear wall becomes open space (it looks like the rear horizontal bumper beam is a 2 x 8 or 10). Fortunately, I think, the panel behind the rear room looks like healthy wood. While not rotted, the vertical beams behind the passenger end cap are damp at least up to until the top section end cap starts (I burned out yesterday before getting the top section end cap off so it might be dry under there). Anyways, I'm just really upset. I wanted to have a professional NRVIA inspection done but no one was available due to corona. Even as an RV neophyte I noted the previous owner's sloppy attempt at sealing the end caps and the rotting bumper beam, before purchasing, but didn't want to have another LD bought out from under me while making inspection and purchase arrangements. I guess I figured it was something relatively easily fixed.
I'm not sure where to go from here. Find the leak and fix it? What about the already damp, but not rotten, wood? How can a new bumper beam be reinserted w/o taking off the entire rear wall when there are strange spacer screws every 6" that are driven starting behind the fiberglass through that beam into the rear room wall? Feeling pretty hopeless right now.
There is a thread on here from a fella who dealt with exactly the same thing. Lots of detail and pictures, good reference.
Was about a year or so back. I cant remember his name.
Jon
That is a bit of rot, I'm not sure what spacers screws you are referring to. The only screws visible are the one securing the ladder. A better photo would be helpful.
Can the offending screws be removed from the exterior side, to be replaced after repairs are made?
If the visible screws are excess extending from whatever they went through, the excess can be cut off using vibratory tool with a hardened, metal cutting blade, a Dremet tool with an angle-head-drive and cutoff wheel or an angle die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Metal screws are heat treated and tough.
Any wood that is wet but seeming solid should be left to dry. I hope you have a covered area to protect the wall during the repairs. Setting a space heater in the Lounge and letting the rear wall cook for a few days wouldn't hurt.
If you would like to talk it over, send me your phone number in an email. The exchange will go much faster than trying to do so over the forum.
Larry
That is a bit of rot, I'm not sure what spacers screws you are referring to. The only screws visible are the one securing the ladder. A better photo would be helpful.
Can the offending screws be removed from the exterior side, to be replaced after repairs are made?
If the visible screws are excess extending from whatever they went through, the excess can be cut off using vibratory tool with a hardened, metal cutting blade, a Dremet tool with an angle-head-drive and cutoff wheel or an angle die grinder with a cutoff wheel. Metal screws are heat treated and tough.
Any wood that is wet but seeming solid should be left to dry. I hope you have a covered area to protect the wall during the repairs. Setting a space heater in the Lounge and letting the rear wall cook for a few days wouldn't hurt.
If you would like to talk it over, send me your phone number in an email. The exchange will go much faster than trying to do so over the forum.
Larry
Sorry to pout like a Millennial...haha. We were raised to express our feelings, as if everyone needs to hear them.
The screw you're seeing is one of the type I'm wondering about; they're spaced about every 8". The head actually starts against but behind the fiberglass panel; I removed the ladder screws so they wouldn't show. I pulled out the rotted wood around them but left them in place.
I can definitely cut/remove those screws but just wondering what their purpose is. They're not screwed into the rear interior wall very far so I wonder if they just hold the bumper beam in place before attaching the outer wall fiberglass panel. I can't image what else they would do.
My rig is in storage with a large canopy cover so at least I have protection from rain. Also, Colorado is incredibly dry so that should help. I'll get the space heater set up this afternoon to dry the boards from the interior cabin area.
Gonna email you my info as well and thank you in advance for being willing to chat privately :-)
Howard
**UPDATE** Here's a better picture of the screw type I'm talking about. This look up from underneath. The left side is outside the rear wall and the right is the exterior wall of the inside cabin. The screw head starts from inside the exterior rear wall and screws through the now removed rotten wood into the exterior of the wall of the inside cabin.
There is a thread on here from a fella who dealt with exactly the same thing. Lots of detail and pictures, good reference.
Was about a year or so back. I cant remember his name.
Jon
Thanks Jon, I'll search for it. If you remember his name let me know.
Howard, you want to search for posts from "Cor2man". He detailed the work he and his wife put in to repair extensive rot. Someone nominated his posts to be the best posts of the year or something like that. I think the message thread was "Hooray for rot repair!"
I sense you bought your rig without seeing it in person? I think you posted questions about the appearance of the shoddily done rear seam resealing when you went to pick this rig up?
What you are dealing with now is something all of us hate to see and some probably wonder what is going on under the skin of their Lazy Daze.
Good luck,
Steve K.
Thanks Jon, I'll search for it. If you remember his name let me know.
2000 lazy daze rear lower storage leak (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=31820.msg188710#msg188710)
2000 lazy daze rear lower storage leak (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=31820.msg188710#msg188710)
Hooray for rot repair!! (https://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=32747.0)
Hi Howard. Yes we (many of us) feel your pain. And as Steve said, many of us are wondering if our own rigs, may have this situation on our own rigs, developing as we speak. I know that I had similar rot on my first (not LD) motorhome, when I bought it at about 11 years old. I didn't know about it then. Took me awhile to fix. Not much money, but a lot of time. Root cause was the back window had been installed upside down, and the sloped back wall fed dew and rain through the weep holes into the wall. I saw it in person in late 2016 (37 years old) still on the road, owned by the person I sold it to when I got my LD. I took a look inside to see how my novice repairs/improvements were holding up. A great education/feedback for me!
A 2001 MB that I bought for friends in 2017, had some rot only on the passenger side corner, below the corner cover joint. That corner had popped loose and was funneling water into the corner. I patched that joint, and got as much rot out as I could. Way less than what you have. Foamed it from below. Made sure the windows were tight, still sealed, and sent it on it's way. RonB
Howard,
Based on the lack of any further response, it sounds like you bought this problem rig without even going to see it before going to pick it up. If that is accurate, this is a good example of how not to buy a used RV. And despite all the advice posted on this terrific site over the years. There is a lesson in there for others who are looking.
Steve K.
Howard,
Based on the lack of any further response, it sounds like you bought this problem rig without even going to see it before going to pick it up. If that is accurate, this is a good example of how not to buy a used RV. And despite all the advice posted on this terrific site over the years. There is a lesson in there for others who are looking.
Steve K.
Hi Steve,
Not exactly. I had been searching for about a year and with previous prospects did due diligence including getting NRVIA certified tech lined up. After 3 of them got bought out from under me while making arrangements to get them inspected and go see them, I decided I had to lax my rules in order to actually get one that wasn't high mileage or early model.
I found this one and scheduled an inspection and made travel arrangements; everything was all set. Then the pandemic started ramping up in seriousness, my inspector cancelled and I couldn't book another one. I needed to get one before the end of August and I wasn't sure I would be able to with the country in quarantine.
It wasn't the way I wanted to purchase but circumstances made things a bit difficult.
Anyways, It's a good and relatively low mileage LD and my intentions were always to learn how to fix and maintain every part of it, but I just didn't expect to jump into the deep end right away.
sorry I didn't see your question in the last comment...wasn't avoiding it.
This looks exactly like mine
"It wasn't the way I wanted to purchase but circumstances made things a bit difficult.
Anyways, It's a good and relatively low mileage LD and my intentions were always to learn how to fix and maintain every part of it, but I just didn't expect to jump into the deep end right away.
sorry I didn't see your question in the last comment...wasn't avoiding it."
Thanks for the clarification and explanation Howard. You sure did have a lot of things working against you. Too bad it was so far away from your location so you could really check it out yourself.
Hope this all ends well for you! Good luck.
Steve K.
So, I've been pulling things apart and honing my skills. Learning where the wood is wet/rotten and, more importantly, how this beast is put (or glued I should say) together. I have some good news and some bad news.......I think. My confidence is building and I've resigned to going slowly, veeerrry slowly.
If you want to see the running image/video album go here: iCloud Photo Sharing (https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B13GtnIORJGiY70)
Couple photos of note. It looks like the water/rot going vertically up the passenger side rear and side wall is limited mostly to the wood panelling that's used (like cartilage in a joint) to fill in the space between the outer skin and the hard wood frame. There's one small plank of wood that "caps" the end of the side wall facing the rear that was completely rotted out and I was able to remove it last night. Looks relatively easy to replace except for learning how to get the wood paneling/filler in place above it.
Thanks for all the help so far from this forum. Don't know how I would do this without ya.
My confidence is building and I've resigned to going slowly, veeerrry slowly.
If you want to see the running image/video album go here: iCloud Photo Sharing (https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B13GtnIORJGiY70)
Go slow and take your time, travel is going to be limited for a while.
Now that you have gone deeper, do you think the leakage was primarily around the passenger side end cap, eliminating the rear window, or is it still a suspect? Either way, resealing the window is needed.
It looks like the driver's side is in good shape and suffered little from the loose end cap.
In the photos, I see you using a vibratory tool with a shape blade, nothing cuts through cured polyurethane like it.
Feel free to ask for advice, Cor2man has been where you are, his rig had interior damage and appears to have suffered more rot. I hope the rot didn't reach your LD's interior paneling.
Larry
Yeah they use a pretty darn thin luan bonded to the aluminum paneling, I purchased some 1/8 inch Luan at Home Depot that was still slightly too thick but I went ahead and used it, didn’t seem to hurt.
Used 3m spray adhesive to bond the Luan, put it all together as I reattached the skin to the camper. If you can get the repair done without removing the skin certainly try to.
Now that you have gone deeper, do you think the leakage was primarily around the passenger side end cap, eliminating the rear window, or is it still a suspect? Either way, resealing the window is needed.
It looks like the driver's side is in good shape and suffered little from the loose end cap.
In the photos, I see you using a vibratory tool with a shape blade, nothing cuts through cured polyurethane like it.
I hope the rot didn't reach your LD's interior paneling.
Larry
Thanks Larry.
I'm still not 100% sure where it's coming from, if not multiple places. I'm going to endoscope the passenger side rear window through the end cap opening today and I'll let you know what i find.
Is the black coloration at the bottom of the driver's side end cap an indication of something abnormal? I also noticed the black stuff where the passenger side top rear end cap meets the roof cap. I see an opening in the (small slit) in the side wall at the top which could be where water is entering but it seemed to be pretty well sealed off up there where those to caps meet.
Yes! I'm using a multi-tool which has been awesome and just got some new bosch blades for it.
I'll be looking for interior panel rot this afternoon too.
Howard
Yeah they use a pretty darn thin luan bonded to the aluminum paneling, I purchased some 1/8 inch Luan at Home Depot that was still slightly too thick but I went ahead and used it, didn’t seem to hurt.
Used 3m spray adhesive to bond the Luan, put it all together as I reattached the skin to the camper. If you can get the repair done without removing the skin certainly try to.
awesome thanks for that info as I was searching for the stuff. any particular 3m adhesive you recommend?
Hi Howard; I've used 3M #77 as a spray, contact adhesive. Spray both sides, let it dry, only one chance to get the placement right. I've cheated and assembled pieces wet, clamped and let dry. Seems to work well also, but I didn't try to move the pieces until after a few days. The solvent used is very volatile (no open flames). It should dry quickly either way. Used to be Toluene, IIRC. Might have changed because of 'huffers'. RonB
Based on what I'm seeing, it looks like the water leak is coming from, at the very least, the passenger rear window and it doesn't go higher than about 6" above the bottom of the window. I wonder if it's also coming from the same height at the rear window as the rear end cap wood had water damage too, or could it just be the spread of the water from the passenger rear window leak? Also looks like the previous owner tried to just apply some sealant along the rotted/wet paneling and call it a day.
What do you guys think?
Hi Howard; I've used 3M #77 as a spray, contact adhesive. Spray both sides, let it dry, only one chance to get the placement right. I've cheated and assembled pieces wet, clamped and let dry. Seems to work well also, but I didn't try to move the pieces until after a few days. The solvent used is very volatile (no open flames). It should dry quickly either way. Used to be Toluene, IIRC. Might have changed because of 'huffers'. RonB
Did you attempt to remove the entire panel piece or just remove the easily accessible panel and cut a new replacement piece to size?
Hi Howard. No I was just replacing a strip about 1 1/2" wide on just a part of one panel, so I stuck a piece into the 'slot'.
Your leak seems to be coming from where the joint next to the rear window is, in the corner molding. LD now attaches a 1" wide strip of aluminum, bent around the corner, on both sides. That seals that entry point well. RonB
Hi Howard. No I was just replacing a strip about 1 1/2" wide on just a part of one panel, so I stuck a piece into the 'slot'.
Your leak seems to be coming from where the joint next to the rear window is, in the corner molding. LD now attaches a 1" wide strip of aluminum, bent around the corner, on both sides. That seals that entry point well. RonB
Ahh okay. Good to know as I was wondering how one might replace the whole panel without removing the skin.
Can you talk a bit about how you prepped the inside surface? Did you sand it and remove all residual glue w/ Acetone or something?
Also, I think mine has the metal strips you're talking about...see pic
Hi Howard. Metal strips to hold down the joint between corner moulding pieces didn't appear until about 2005 or so. The screw head shouldn't be rusty. I use all stainless. It doesn't look like your strip was sealed, and I suspect it was letting in water. Possibly the source of your rot problem. If you remove that strip for cleaning, your corner piece should be completely loose. Check that the strip on the otherside is on and sealed right too.
I use acetone, sparingly and quickly. It evaporates fast. It will soften and wipe away your paint and decals (pinstripes) faster than you think. It takes wax off instantly. Alcohol not diluted with water (rubbing alcihol) is best. Use as little acetone as you can. It also soaks into your skin fast, not good for you either. The acetone carefully applied won't hurt the ABS from inside very fast, and will remove the (looks like contact cement to me) inside the aluminum/ thin plywood panels.
Looks like you are making progress, keep up the good work. All of us here benefit from your pictures. We of course are hoping we don't have these issues, but we all might if we keep our rigs long enough. RonB
The optional metal strip covering the gap doesn't seal the gap, the sealant can still break loose beneath it.
Evidently, there is a lot of stress concentrated at the gap, I have found the end cap gaps on many LDs to have failed, torn-up sealant.
Covering the gap makes it look better.
Even covering the gap with Eternabond Tape is subject to long term failure, there is a lot of twisting applied to the area when driving on poor roads. It is the only place where I have been Eternabond repeatedly fail and pull away, after several years.
Later models seem to have less issues with the end caps but this may be a matter of time, the Mothership has tried a variety of ways to adhere the end caps and to seal the gap, with varying degrees of success.
Presently, the end caps are the weakest point in keeping an LD waterproof. Keep an eye on them.
Larry
Hi Howard. No I was just replacing a strip about 1 1/2" wide on just a part of one panel, so I stuck a piece into the 'slot'.
Your leak seems to be coming from where the joint next to the rear window is, in the corner molding. LD now attaches a 1" wide strip of aluminum, bent around the corner, on both sides. That seals that entry point well. RonB
I think you were spot on with this. Seems the leak was coming only from where that metal strip was improperly sealed. The water moved down the side wood and to the passenger side section of the wood beam behind the bottom bumper. A little spread into the flooring too.
Well I've removed most of the bed up against the passenger side rear/side wall and now sh*t's getting real, haha. I realize I have to put everything back together and it's making me very nervous. How am I supposed to get the wide (15/16") crown staples installed against the new wood that is on the interior of the rear wall? Should I just remove the outside rear wall?
In removing the interior wood paneling I think I've decided just to cut down to the left of the middle and then reinstall with some of that rubber molding so I don't have to remove the entire panel and the other bed (there's no rot on that other side).
Anyone know where to get the white cotton like insulation or is there a better kind to refill with?
Well I've removed most of the bed up against the passenger side rear/sHow am I supposed to get the wide (15/16") crown staples installed against the new wood that is on the interior of the rear wall? Should I just remove the outside rear wall?
Anyone know where to get the white cotton like insulation or is there a better kind to refill with?
Can't the staples be replaced with long screws? Not sure exactly where they need to be installed.
Do whatever you can to prevent disassembly of the rear wall, it will add hours of work to the project.
The insulation can be replaced with fiberglass cut from a roll of insulation, R11 is usually the smallest roll available.
Sheet styrofoam can also cut to fit, it's what the later models use, instead of fiberglass.
Larry
Can't the staples be replaced with long screws? Not sure exactly where they need to be installed.
Larry
Most of these heavy gauge wide crown staples were holding wood beams together at joints. I remember you saying that most everything is glued so perhaps these were there just to hold the beams in place while the glue dried? If that's the case then I can just use a more standard size staple gun to hold the new wood in place.
Side note: what would you recommend to fill in holes in beams where screws have been removed/torn out? I'll likely be screwing back into some of these spots. Should I just use regular spackle?
Side note: what would you recommend to fill in holes in beams where screws have been removed/torn out? I'll likely be screwing back into some of these spots. Should I just use regular spackle?
For me personally, definitely not spackle. The "old timers" would fix a small screw hole with glue and a wooden match stick (ie, put wood glue in the hole and on the match stick and hammer it into the hole; then break off the stick even with the surrounding wood). If the damage is bad enough, I would drill the hole out and glue in a dowel. If done correctly, which really isn't too hard to do, the fix will be "as good as" the original wood (almost :) ). I've used this fix many, many times and it works. Of course, this fix is for those places where you are returning the screw to it's original position. If this is just a cosmetic repair (which I think is not the case for you), this is not what you want; spackle might work if the hole isn't too large. Something like Elmer's Wood Filler might be better; it can be sanded and will probably stay in better than spackle (I'm assuming you are filling holes is wood, of course).
Ken
Most of these heavy gauge wide crown staples were holding wood beams together at joints.
Side note: what would you recommend to fill in holes in beams where screws have been removed/torn out? I'll likely be screwing back into some of these spots. Should I just use regular spackle?
I would still use long screws to make up for the loss of the long staples, the heads of the screws can be painted so they barely show. I use either wood putty or a small amount of body filler to fill holes. Next, lighty sand smooth and then paint.
Matching interior touch up paint , in hundreds of colors, can be found at major craft stores, such a Micheals, Take a piece of the old paneling, one that still has an intact vinyl covering, and use it as a sample for matching. The paint comes in small,, 1-2oz bottle, is inexpensive and has been used on many LD to patch and disguise screw holes and other small damage.
I keep a bottle in the LD to repair any nicks or other damage to the paneling.
Larry
Hi Howard; Spackle is a vinyl paste, good for drywall repairs, but will just rip out with screws. Not water water proof either.
The metal staples LD used were to hold the pieces of wood in alignment while the glue dried. Also slow drying glue would allow the whole assembly to be done, then let dry (overnight perhaps) into a more rigid framework. If the glue at a joint cracked later from a rough road or something, the staples would keep it together.
I've used plastic resin glue for many things. Dry powder (keep the cover on when using to keep the powder dry) small amounts can be mixed. much less water than you think, do small amounts, stir thourouly. It has a very long open time, dries slowly, hours to a day. Very !! waterproof, bug proof and strong. The one pound amount would be good for you. Dap 00203 Weldwood Plastic Resin Glue, 1-Pound - Wood Glue Cabinet - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/00203-Weldwood-Plastic-Resin-1-Pound/dp/B001003J16) Water clean up is a positive.
For filling holes you won't need again, I use Bondo body (car) filler. I keep it in the refrigerator to preserve its life and slow down the reaction. Use 'popsicle' sticks on a polyethylene surface. (old butter container lids). Don't mix much, it sets up in a few minutes. Keep Acetone handy for clean-up. Apply. After it gel's and is a little firm, you can shave off excess. Just a few minute window, 2-3 minutes. When it 'goes off' large amounts can get warm. After 30 minutes it will be rock hard, if you mixed the catalyst in the right proportion. You might want to practice with this before you use it. It shrinks a little so you might wait to sand it flush until after the gel phase. I've had a lot of practice, so it seems easy and inexpensive. Very permanent, waterproof, easy to sand, etc. It doesn't take screw threads as well as I like, but you might find it to be ok. Otherwise Elmers wood putty, but you get to wait a day, and it isn't that waterproof.
For holes you want to use again; tooth pick, match stick, or sawdust with a Titebond type of glue.
Another thing i've used is Liquid Nails out of a tube. It fills gaps better and retains a little bit of softness, so not as rigid a structure. In addition to screws a good assist. I know this was too long, good luck. RonB
Things are coming along. Removed most of the entire rear wall wood and panel. The center beam below the floor line that runs between the outer and inner wall, was black and rotted. Fortunately it hadn't rotted through to the other side of the beam.
Next step is to do some more sanding of the side beam and floor wood that has some minor rot and corrosion along the edges of the aluminum sheet under the floor, outside the RV.
(https://cvws.icloud-content.com/S/AWmhFo3llbLJAf-ByZ1pWtAZ-6t0/IMG_0267.JPG?o=AtEMn-gEF6LJFHS5_xHqrI7Oj6EUw2XcOi1vVtcydLnS&v=1&z=https%3A%2F%2Fp65-content.icloud.com%3A443&x=1&a=CAogf66LpWH_pWSwVagoByje9pGWscMjHR7_lPKfcYhtVEsSFxD9g6X1ri4Y_Zq4-q4uIgEAUgQZ-6t0&e=1593152769&r=f4354ce3-4150-4b6a-a17f-464898ed0c76-2&s=kAW1Qj0Xp7yevOGsCHZpxZCKvLU)
I'm cheering you on Howard! I look forward to seeing that gap filled in.
Reminds me of a dry rot project in our house. The shower had leaked under the pan and migrated past the wall to the adjoining dining room's sub floor. Never noticed the issue till the dining room carpet was replaced with wood flooring. By the time all the rotten wood was removed we could see straight down into the crawl space. Your project has a lot more intricacies.
I'm cheering you on Howard! I look forward to seeing that gap filled in.
thanks! taking all the well wishes I can get :D
Almost done removing rotted wood (actually much of it looks like the rot had only eaten the glue). It encroached on the side panel as well but fortunately there was no indication of leaks from the window sills/frames into the wall as the wood was clean in those areas. Looks like this was completely a results of a leak from the metal strip that covers the area where the two end caps meet. Wonder how long ago it started?
Question: How did LD get the wood utility panel that's glued directly to the interior aluminum skin to be so flush? I have some 1/8" utility panel and it's flexible but seems like it would be hard to glue as closely to the skin as the original.
Almost done removing rotted wood Looks like this was completely a results of a leak from the metal strip that covers the area where the two end caps meet. Wonder how long ago it started?
That's a lot of missing wood, deeper than I have gone.
I have found many LD with loose end caps at the mid-joint. Our LD has been resealed several times, they keep popping free. The rear caps must have a lot a twisting stress applied to them to tear the connections apart.
Larry
Have you seen this series?
The Odd Essay: Overhaul... Continued...... (http://theoddessay.blogspot.com/2015/02/overhaul-continued.html)
It's not quite the problem you're dealing with, but it could be helpful.
Rich
'03 MB in NC
Have you seen this series?
The Odd Essay: Overhaul... Continued...... (http://theoddessay.blogspot.com/2015/02/overhaul-continued.html)
It's not quite the problem you're dealing with, but it could be helpful.
Rich
'03 MB in NC
I had come across that site before but didn't see the entirety of the project....wow. Thanks for the link.
just a quick update on where I am with the wood rot repair. things are coming along as I cut and fit the new wood. I've been documenting everything and plan to do a comprehensive post from start to finish when I have some time to sit down next month.
Trying some new trim molding as the one I originally got from RecPro is just too small in width to cover the 1/4" wood panelling