My research suggests that Dawn and a pressure washer is the way to go. What say you?
My research suggests that Dawn and a pressure washer is the way to go. What say you?
Or a long handle soft brush and some diluted Simple Green.Good Sam Extendable Wash Brush | Camping World (https://www.campingworld.com/good-sam-extendable-wash-brush-70120.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjPyIsODM5AIVBdVkCh1SKA9nEAkYCyABEgJruPD_BwE)
Chris
Pressure washer will force water into your LD if you have any cracks / even pinprick holes. Not the way I would go.
Jane
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Using this product to coat your roof is a terrible idea. Only the existing sealant should be addressed by replacement or tape-over. The roof coatings deteriorate, leaving a mess to deal with. Properly prepared and applied, seam taping can last the life of the rig.
Steve
I clean my LD roof maybe three or more times a year. The roof is sheet aluminum. From the factory it was painted a flat white.
The seams are screwed down then coated with a factory sealant. I was advised never to use Simple Green on or near aluminum as it has a tendency to eat it. I'm told there is a Simple Green product that can be used. Must read the label.
I use a mild car wash product I buy from the big box store. I carry empty bucket, soft bush, a few clean 'yellow' rags and water hose up to the roof.
As an aside there are many threads on LD roof upkeep and re-sealing. I like others would strongly advice against put a rubber type coat on the roof.
glen
Or a long handle soft brush and some diluted Simple Green.Good Sam Extendable Wash Brush | Camping World (https://www.campingworld.com/good-sam-extendable-wash-brush-70120.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjPyIsODM5AIVBdVkCh1SKA9nEAkYCyABEgJruPD_BwE)
Chris
Have the wash brush. Did not think about simple green. TY.
Pressure washer will force water into your LD if you have any cracks / even pinprick holes. Not the way I would go.
Jane
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone (https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS)
I did wonder about that. My thought was that it would dry out quickly in CA heat.
Read all about it.....
Simple Green | Data Sheets (https://simplegreen.com/data-sheets/)
Using this product to coat your roof is a terrible idea. Only the existing sealant should be addressed by replacement or tape-over. The roof coatings deteriorate, leaving a mess to deal with. Properly prepared and applied, seam taping can last the life of the rig.
Steve
I am going to get Eternabond Double Stick for the cabover join. The rest of the roof surface is so 'brushed' that a sheet may not adhere correctly.
I clean my LD roof maybe three or more times a year. The roof is sheet aluminum. From the factory it was painted a flat white.
The seams are screwed down then coated with a factory sealant. I was advised never to use Simple Green on or near aluminum as it has a tendency to eat it. I'm told there is a Simple Green product that can be used. Must read the label.
I use a mild car wash product I buy from the big box store. I carry empty bucket, soft bush, a few clean 'yellow' rags and water hose up to the roof.
As an aside there are many threads on LD roof upkeep and re-sealing. I like others would strongly advice against put a rubber type coat on the roof.
glen
Would you mind elaborating on why the no on EPDM? If not EODM, then what are other options? Elastomeric paint?
Read all about it.....
Simple Green | Data Sheets (https://simplegreen.com/data-sheets/)
UU r a veritable thesaurus. TY.
I am going to get Eternabond Double Stick for the cabover join. The rest of the roof surface is so 'brushed' that a sheet may not adhere correctly.
What do you mean about brushed? Pictures would help see what is there.
My research suggests that Dawn and a pressure washer is the way to go. What say you?
Dawn is fine but I would forget about the pressure washer, too many ways of causing problems.
When I sealed roofs, an assortment of brushes were used to get into the nooks and crannies.
Hand cleaning forces you to look closely at all the surfaces, it does a better job, compared to pressure washing.
All surfaces to be sealed were then wiped with a clean rag and either acetone or lacquer thinner right before resealing.
I only used Dicor to topcoat the existing sealant around the vents, antennas and solar panels. I would never overcoat the roof seams with Dicor or any other sealant without removing the old sealant. I have found too many voids in the Factory sealant to bury them in other coat of sealant.
For the roof seams, I used 4" Eternabond tape for many years, switching to the 6" wide tape after learning how to handle the uncooperative, sticky stuff.
The idea is to use a tape wider than the Factory roof sealant, overlapping the old sealant.
Before applying the tape, make sure the existing seam sealant is 2" or less in width, so the tape will have an inch of coverage on each side. Sometimes some sealant needs be removed .
Pulling a straight line, with a chalk line, provides a visual edge to guide the application of the tape. A neat, permanent job is all about cleaning and laying out the lines on which the tape will follow.
Get a helper when applying the tape, it can be tricky to handle solo. The tape can be applied from a 8' step-ladder, as well as from the roof top.
Avoid any rubber roof coating, it will not make a big difference in insulation. Problems can develop under the coating that can go unnoticed until a lot of damage is done. It makes working on roof repair and maintenance difficult down the road.
I made the mistake using a roof coating on my 1983 LD, within three years, it was peeling in many places. It is just about impossible to get the roof clean enough for the EPDM to bond permanently, especially on an old roof.
Larry
.
Dawn is fine but I would forget about the pressure washer, too many ways of causing problems.
When I sealed roofs, an assortment of brushes were used to get into the nooks and crannies.
Hand cleaning forces you to look closely at all the surfaces, it does a better job, compared to pressure washing.
All surfaces to be sealed were then wiped with a clean rag and either acetone or lacquer thinner right before resealing.
I only used Dicor to topcoat the existing sealant around the vents, antennas and solar panels. I would never overcoat the roof seams with Dicor or any other sealant without removing the old sealant. I have found too many voids in the Factory sealant to bury them in other coat of sealant.
For the roof seams, I used 4" Eternabond tape for many years, switching to the 6" wide tape after learning how to handle the uncooperative, sticky stuff.
The idea is to use a tape wider than the Factory roof sealant, overlapping the old sealant.
Before applying the tape, make sure the existing seam sealant is 2" or less in width, so the tape will have an inch of coverage on each side. Sometimes some sealant needs be removed .
Pulling a straight line, with a chalk line, provides a visual edge to guide the application of the tape. A neat, permanent job is all about cleaning and laying out the lines on which the tape will follow.
Get a helper when applying the tape, it can be tricky to handle solo. The tape can be applied from a 8' step-ladder, as well as from the roof top.
Avoid any rubber roof coating, it will not make a big difference in insulation. Problems can develop under the coating that can go unnoticed until a lot of damage is done. It makes working on roof repair and maintenance difficult down the road.
I made the mistake using a roof coating on my 1983 LD, within three years, it was peeling in many places. It is just about impossible to get the roof clean enough for the EPDM to bond permanently, especially on an old roof.
Larry
.
Thanks Larry