This is a view facing up to my water tank as I'm lying on the ground in front of the left dually.
I'm going to drain the tank immediately and check for internal moisture.
Any suggestions on a fix?
Tough to tell what I'm looking at. Is it the fresh water tank's drain pipe or it is the gray holding tank.
If the fresh, the drain pipe may be leaking where it attaches to the bottom of the tank.
The best way to reattach the pipe is to spin-weld or hot-air weld it.
Cracks in the tank can be air-welded.
Larry
Tough to tell what I'm looking at. Is it the fresh water tank's drain pipe or it is the gray holding tank.
If the fresh, the drain pipe may be leaking where it attaches to the bottom of the tank.
The best way to reattach the pipe is to spin-weld or hot-air weld it.
Cracks in the tank can be air-welded.
Larry
It's the freshwater drain pipe.
It looks very difficult to get to.
I have no idea how the tank comes out, hidden under the kitchen cabinet.
A call to the Mothership should provide some hints.
Let us know what they say or you find out on your own.
Looking at the photo, there appears to be a metal plate around the pipe. Possibly if it was removed, along with the foam insulation around the pipe, the bottom of the tank may be exposed, enough to allow the connection to be cleaned and glued with a plastic epoxy.
Amazon.com: J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz.:... (https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=J-B+Weld+8237&qid=1567884699&s=gateway&sr=8-1)
Larry
I have no idea how the tank comes out, hidden under the kitchen cabinet.
A call to the Mothership should provide some hints.
Let us know what they say or you find out on your own.
Looking at the photo, there appears to be a metal plate around the pipe. Possibly if it was removed, along with the foam insulation around the pipe, the bottom of the tank may be exposed, enough to allow the connection to be cleaned and glued with a plastic epoxy.
Amazon.com: J-B Weld 8237 PlasticWeld Plastic Repair Epoxy Putty - 2 oz.:... (https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8237-PlasticWeld-Plastic/dp/B003S2E4UE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=J-B+Weld+8237&qid=1567884699&s=gateway&sr=8-1)
Larry
Thanks Larry as always!
I'll post back when I solve this.
I had a leaking water pump on our prior LazyDaze - a 2015 Twin King. I became aware of the leak having noticed water (and mildew), in the outside storage compartment through which the drain pipe runs. Vince (Mother Ship service manager), was very helpful. He advised starting by visually inspecting the tank and water pump area for leaks. In my case, 2015 TK, beneath and behind the kitchen drawers. I found that water had been leaking onto the floorboard and trickling down the outside of the drainpipe. I then checked water pump fittings and housing for leaks (a common cause of leaks). I found that the water pump’s pre-filter bowl was cracked. Once I replaced the cracked part the leak stopped. I’m not suggesting this is the problem in your case but the idea of starting with an inspection of the tank and water pump seems relevant.
Good luck identifying and fixing your leak.
Warren
I think Warren has a good idea. Water travels, that can include down a pipe so it is not actually the pipe that is leaking.
Since this is fresh water, I would check that anything you use for repairs is made for potable water so if it is exposed to the inside of the water tank (or pipe), it doesn't leach anything into your water you don't want there.
Jane
I had a leaking water pump on our prior LazyDaze - a 2015 Twin King. I became aware of the leak having noticed water (and mildew), in the outside storage compartment through which the drain pipe runs. Vince (Mother Ship service manager), was very helpful. He advised starting by visually inspecting the tank and water pump area for leaks. In my case, 2015 TK, beneath and behind the kitchen drawers. I found that water had been leaking onto the floorboard and trickling down the outside of the drainpipe. I then checked water pump fittings and housing for leaks (a common cause of leaks). I found that the water pump’s pre-filter bowl was cracked. Once I replaced the cracked part the leak stopped. I’m not suggesting this is the problem in your case but the idea of starting with an inspection of the tank and water pump seems relevant.
Good luck identifying and fixing your leak.
Warren
Just checked.
Water pump and pipe connections are dry.
It definitely looks like the leak is coming from the drain pipe connection.
Getting it's mounting plate off is going to be challenging. There is the wheel well in the way and it's wood mount glued over the plate.
If I could remove the front wheel well plate that would help.
It definitely looks like the leak is coming from the drain pipe connection.
Getting it's mounting plate off is going to be challenging. There is the wheel well in the way and it's wood mount glued over the plate.
If I could remove the front wheel well plate that would help.
Did you call the Mothership?
Steve or Vince should be able to provide some advice. You cannot be the first to have leaky tank in a T/K..
Larry
Did you call the Mothership?
Steve or Vince should be able to provide some advice. You cannot be the first to have leaky tank in a T/K..
Larry
Good idea.
I was able to remove the valve assembly at the pipe's end. This affords me more space to work in. I'm chipping wood and goop away to get to the plate mounting screws.
On edit...
Just talked with Mothership. I'm on the right track.
Got the old PVC drain pipe unscrewed and out and prepping the new. I will clean the tank threads carefully with a small nylon brush.
After I install the drain pipe (capped) and check for leaks I plan to cut and glue in a ball valve followed by a hose thread fitting which seal with a threaded brass cap with washer.
For the connection going into the tank.
Should I use thread tape, compound, or as I just saw on YouTube both? They applied the tape and added a thin coating of compound. I'm leaning towards that.
"...with a small nylon brush."
Previously used tooth brushes are excellent for that sort of job! ;)
I'm a little confused here, what was actually broken or leaking? Just the drain pipe?
Jon..
I'm a little confused here, what was actually broken or leaking? Just the drain pipe?
Jon..
As best as I can tell it was leaking from where the drain pipe screws into the tank.
There was no thread tape and I can see what appears to be old compound residue. Not much was sealing it anymore.
I put 3 wraps of tape on the pipe threads focusing at the end of the threads where they terminate on the fitting. I then smeared a thin coat of thread compound into the entire threads.
I threaded it into the tank snugly with the pipe capped.
Filled 6 gallons into the tank.
No leaks so far.
I'll let it sit for a few hours to test before cutting and installing the valve assembly.
It's been difficult but hopefully this solves it.
Good work and thanks for sharing how you are doing it..
I would go for the gusto and fill the tank before proceeding...just in case.
If still leak free, being filled will not make a difference in gluing the valve in place.
Larry
Good work and thanks for sharing how you are doing it..
I would go for the gusto and fill the tank before proceeding...just in case.
If still leak free, being filled will not make a difference in gluing the valve in place.
Larry
You read my mind.
I filled it more and the leaking started again sadly.
This freshwater tank is so embedded this may require a Mothership repair.
On edit...
Just talked to Vince. I'm taking it in next Wednesday for a diagnoses.
Well it's an ongoing saga but I found the problem finally.
The tank drain threads have a crack.
Lazy Daze is closed or I'd call Vince back for advice.
This crack isn't surprising to me considering the weight of the stock brass drain valve assembly at the plastic drain pipe's end. It had one metal strap for side to side but nothing supporting the weight. After 24 years of vibration it's no wonder.
The only solution may be to coat the PVC pipe threads and the tank threads with some sort of adhesive like 3M 5200 and thread the pipe on?
I'd let it set up for good while before messing with gluing the valve on.
Larry, would 5200 work in this scenario?
It's a last ditch try.
Vince told me removing the tank is a huge task which for me is probably unaffordable.
It's difficult to see in this pic but the crack is highlighted by some thread compound I used. I can stick my fingernail in and feel it's cracked.
This is a view from me laying on my back and looking up.
Is your fresh water tank (other than the drain pipe) all inside the kitchen sink cabinet? I think ours is and the connecting pipe to the water pump easily was removed and replaced.
Do you have pex or the old grey pipe inside (eg tank to water pump)?
While I think finding a way to securely connect the new pipe using some kind of sealant or gasket is the easier choice, if that doesn't work you may be able to remove (then replace) some small parts of the cabinet to take the tank out that way and put a new one in. Unless Lazy Daze has done a massive glue in place job on that tank.
Jane
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Is your fresh water tank (other than the drain pipe) all inside the kitchen sink cabinet? I think ours is and the connecting pipe to the water pump easily was removed and replaced.
Do you have pet or the old grey pipe inside (eg tank to water pump)?
While I think finding a way to securely connect the new phone using some kind of sealant or gasket is the easier choice, if that doesn't work you may be able to remove (then replace) some small parts of the cabinet to take the tank out that way and put a new one in. Unless Lazy Daze has done a massive glue in place job on that tank.
Jane
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Connecting line to the water pump is dry as is the water pump area.
This tank was installed before the sink cabinetry making it a big and expensive deal to replace.
I'll call Vince Monday at the Mothership send let him know what I found and ask his suggestions. I see know no other way than a "glue in place" connection. It would be a one shot try that I can't get wrong.
You have done a great job so far of tracking the leak, finding the source and trying to deal with it. I would NOT try the 5200. I don't know what the mothership will have to go through to repair or get the tank out and replace it, but having stuff stuck on that cannot be removed won't be helpful.
Ken F in WY
You have done a great job so far of tracking the leak, finding the source and trying to deal with it. I would NOT try the 5200. I don't know what the mothership will have to go through to repair or get the tank out and replace it, but having stuff stuck on that cannot be removed won't be helpful.
Ken F in WY
The gluing (should it take place) I don't think would hinder removal other than a sawsall to cut the drain pipe close to the tank.
Here's the thing. It's a good rig and the drivetrain has under 60K on it and well maintained with a Banks kit. I've done extensive upgrades to the coach and it's inner workings and appliances. However, it's a 1995. I'm not sure I would be willing to spend thousands more replacing the water tank.
This is an awful place to be. Lots of TLC in this rig.
I will talk to Vince Monday.
It doesn't appear the drain is separate from the tank. In other words not a removable bulkhead. Wouldn't that have been nice?
There may be a way to simply plug the 3/4" drain opening and install, albeit smaller, another drain close by.
At this point I'm willing to go without a drain as we don't drink the water anyway. Not good I know but if we must remove cabinets I will need to sell her.
Before you try anything like 5200, I would find someone who is experienced with repairing plastic tanks. Farm supply places should be a good resource since a lot of agricultural tanks are plastic.
I bet it can be repaired well by someone with the proper tools and knowledge.
Good luck in your search.
Rich
'03 MB in NC
The problem I see using 5200 and other sealants is getting the sealant into the crack. None of the sealants we use are thin enough to be drawn into the depths of the crack.
If me, I would consider using a small saw and cutting the crack open, before filling the cut and threads with plastic epoxy and then threading in a new piece of PVC pipe, its threads also coated in epoxy.
Keep the pipe as short as possible to reduce the chance of it getting hit sideways, the longer the pipe, the more leverage trying to break it again.
Since the cabinetry is screwed and glued to the walls, removing the cabinet is not possible without destroying it. I would guess LD will remove the counter top, along with the sink, then lift the tank out after the plumbing connections are disconnected.
Take a look at how the counter top is secured to the cabinets, to see if it is designed to be removable.
It may be something you can do yourself, if so the tank can be repaired.
Larry
Hi Ted. Your picture was a good indicator of the problem. I would clear a little moe of the plywood away from the fitting in question. One good thing is the tank really isn't under much pressure, not like 40 or 50 psi. There are plugs that could stop it up. https://assets.supply.com/images/productimages/test-tite-rwn4.jpg;width=500;height=500;bgcolor=White;quality=65;scale=both . It would be harder to drain it, but you could syphon from the filler, or pump it out when needed. Certainly not a 'motorhome killer', just an incovenience. Somewhere is someone who can fix it. I don't think the tank needs to be removed. I have a TK also. RonB
The problem I see using 5200 and other sealants is getting the sealant into the crack. None of the sealants we use are thin enough to be drawn into the depths of the crack.
If me, I would consider using a small saw and cutting the crack open, before filling the cut and threads with plastic epoxy and then threading in a new piece of PVC pipe, its threads also costed in epoxy.
Keep the pipe as short as possible to reduce the chance of it getting hit sideways, the longer the pipe, the more leverage trying to break it again.
Since the cabinetry is screwed and glued to the walls, removing the cabinet is not possible without destroying it. I would guess LD will remove the counter top, along with the sink, then lift the tank out after the plumbing connections are disconnected.
Take a look at how the counter top is secured the cabinets, to see if it is designed to be removable.
It maybe something you can do yourself, if so the tank can be repaired.
Larry
The real daunting issue tackling this from underneath is work space.
I'll check the counter top.
I've even thought of an idea to totally plugging the drain, which would be easier, and install a smaller drain near it.
Or no drain at all.
We drink bottled water.
Hi Ted. Your picture was a good indicator of the problem. I would clear a little moe of the plywood away from the fitting in question. One good thing is the tank really isn't under much pressure, not like 40 or 50 psi. There are plugs that could stop it up. https://assets.supply.com/images/productimages/test-tite-rwn4.jpg;width=500;height=500;bgcolor=White;quality=65;scale=both . It would be harder to drain it, but you could syphon from the filler, or pump it out when needed. Certainly not a 'motorhome killer', just an incovenience. Somewhere is someone who can fix it. I don't think the tank needs to be removed. I have a TK also. RonB
Hi Ted. Your picture was a good indicator of the problem. I would clear a little moe of the plywood away from the fitting in question. One good thing is the tank really isn't under much pressure, not like 40 or 50 psi. There are plugs that could stop it up. https://assets.supply.com/images/productimages/test-tite-rwn4.jpg;width=500;height=500;bgcolor=White;quality=65;scale=both . It would be harder to drain it, but you could syphon from the filler, or pump it out when needed. Certainly not a 'motorhome killer', just an incovenience. Somewhere is someone who can fix it. I don't think the tank needs to be removed. I have a TK also. RonB
Thank you Ron!
It would not hurt to try one of these!!
I'm now looking for one of these to fit 3/4".
You could always use what we used on Navy ships as a temporary fix, a wooden DC (Damage Control) plug.
You could always use what we used on Navy ships as a temporary fix, a wooden DC (Damage Control) plug.
Thank you for that idea.
I think those run the risk of splitting the plastic crack worse and could fall out.
I really like Ron's idea as those plugs worked well in my boat under far more pressure.
Would an automotive “freeze plug” work?
I'm now looking for one of these to fit 3/4".
You already tried to seal it with a new pipe, which didn't work.
A plug, while closing the hole, will do nothing to prevent water from leaking through the crack, the crack needs to be sealed or the fitting replaced.
Before shipping the rig off the LD, for a Factory repair, I would be willing to give several things a try. Whatever you do will be repairable once the tank is removed.
I would use a hack saw blade to cut the crack open before using a lot of plastic epoxy to seal the crack and glue the pipe in place.
Larry
You already tried to seal it with a new pipe, which didn't work.
A plug, while closing the hole, will do nothing to prevent water from leaking through the crack, the crack needs to be sealed or the fitting replaced.
Before shipping the rig off the LD, for a Factory repair, I would be willing to give several things a try. Whatever you do will be repairable once the tank is removed.
I would use a hack saw blade to cut the crack open before using a lot of plastic epoxy to seal the crack and glue the pipe in place.
Larry
I know with my expandable boat drain plug it was relatively deep. I'm thinking a similar size would go deep enough to get past the crack and seal at the body.
Sawing in this tight work space is impossible I think but ideally I hear what you're saying.
Would an automotive “freeze plug” work?
I'll explore that.
I'm going to get a freeze plug and try it.
Where I had to be careful with any expandable plug is to not make the cracking worse.
The threaded drain hole is at 1" x 1" deep.
I remembered that 3/4" pipe measurement is based on the inside diameter of the pipe not the fittings...duh.
Here is a handy chart. As you indicated, outside pipe diameter will vary with pipe wall thickness:
Standard Pipe Schedules and Sizes Chart Table Data - Engineers Edge (https://www.engineersedge.com/pipe_schedules.htm)
I'm now looking for one of these to fit 3/4".
It wouldn't hurt to try an expansion plug.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-autograde-rubber-expansion-plug-3-4-in-size-range-3-4-in-7-8-in-02608/89014938-P
The crack will still be there and probably will continue leaking.
If you need a specialized adhesive for plastic tanks, check this.
Permatex® Plastic Tank Repair Kit - Permatex (https://www.permatex.com/products/specialized-maintenance-repair/radiator-tank-repair/permatex-plastic-tank-repair-kit/)
Larry
This almost worked.
Just one drip every few seconds at 2/3 tank filled. But this isn't horseshoes so close doesn't count.
I'm now wondering if coating the expansion plug with liquid thread compound then tightening would work or would that make it too slippery to stay in?
The hose clamp I installed snugly but not too tight to give the expansion plug something to push against as it expanded rather than expanding the crack.
I'm real leery of permanently gluing a fitting in this situation for fear if that doesn't stop the leak then I'm really in more of a bind.
The circle is where it was dripping from and the arrow points to the crack.
I couldn't find any specific sealer made for polyethylene. At this point, I would consider a wicking thread sealer or epoxy. Either way, the tank would need to be drained and the crack dried.
Amazon.com: Permatex 29000 Penetrating Grade Threadlocker Green, 6 ml: Gateway (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-29000-Penetrating-Grade-Threadlocker/dp/B000HBNUTA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Permatex®+Penetrating+Grade+Threadlocker+GREEN&qid=1568496568&s=gateway&sr=8-1)
If a solvent for plastic epoxy could be found, thinned plastic epoxy could be applied to the crack with a small irrigation syringe, hoping it will wick in.
If you can fit a finger through the tank's outlet hole into the tank, rub the area around the crack clean and then, using a gloved finger, apply a blob of mixed plastic epoxy to the inside perimeter of the hole, in the area where the crack is located. push the epoxy into the crack as deeply as possible.
I might push some epoxy into the crack, where it crosses the threads, and then clean up the threads with a pipe die, after the glue has cured a bit but before it has completely set up.
Another possible way of fixing it would require cutting a little more of the floor away, providing access so the old fitting could be cut out, with a hole saw, and a new fitting spun-welded in . You would have to find an RV or plastic shop that does this type of work.
One way or the other, the crack needed sealing or the fitting replaced.
Larry
I couldn't find any specific sealer made for polyethylene. At this point, I would consider a wicking thread sealer or epoxy. Either way, the tank would need to be drained and the crack dried.
Amazon.com: Permatex 29000 Penetrating Grade Threadlocker Green, 6 ml: Gateway (https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-29000-Penetrating-Grade-Threadlocker/dp/B000HBNUTA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Permatex®+Penetrating+Grade+Threadlocker+GREEN&qid=1568496568&s=gateway&sr=8-1)
If a solvent for plastic epoxy could be found, thinned plastic epoxy could be applied to the crack with a small irrigation syringe, hoping it will wick in.
If you can fit a finger through the tank's outlet hole into the tank, rub the area around the crack clean and then, using a gloved finger, apply a blob of mixed plastic epoxy to the inside perimeter of the hole, in the area where the crack is located. push the epoxy into the crack as deeply as possible.
I might push some epoxy into the crack, where it crosses the threads, and then clean up the threads with a pipe die, after the glue has cured a bit but before it has completely set up.
Another possible way of fixing it would require cutting a little more of the floor away, providing access so the old fitting could be cut out, with a hole saw, and a new fitting spun-welded in . You would have to find an RV or plastic shop that does this type of work.
One way or the other, the crack needed sealing or the fitting replaced.
Larry
I do have this:
west-system--g-flex-650-8-liquid-epoxy-resin-and-hardener-- (https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-system--g-flex-650-8-liquid-epoxy-resin-and-hardener--9223132?recordNum=7)
I was thinking along the lines that Larry suggested above. Here is a slight modification. Using epoxy glue (not putty), push your gloved finger into the hole to blob it around the inside lip of the hole. Then, do the threads. Next, run a threaded pipe into the hole to spread the crack a bit. That will force some epoxy into the crack as the pipe opens the crack. Push some more epoxy into the crack from below. Remove the pipe. As the crack closes, any epoxy that made its way into the crack will spread further into the crack. You could repeat this thread coating and pipe insertion a few times. Finally, wipe away as much as you can remove with a cloth or a bottle brush. Let it take an initial cure, then clean up the threads with a pipe die as Larry suggested. Then, allow a full cure before adding any load to it.
By coating the inside surface and working epoxy into the crack, I would expect it to hold water. By removing the pipe and cleaning up the threads later, you retain the original installed configuration. I would advise that you use plenty of pipe dope when re-assembling, and don't crank that pipe in too hard. A bit more than hand tight should seal it. If not, you can tighten it a quarter turn at a time until it is sealed. You want to avoid creating stresses that would re-open the crack, so be gentle.
Ken F in WY
Tede, the West Marine epoxy resin and hardener is intended for use with fiberglass cloth. On its own, it is pretty brittle. It does have the advantage of being thin, thus giving better penetration. If you get a double tube of epoxy glue, it is thicker but will still run, will be more flexible, and is actually stronger than the stand alone resin and hardener. My vote would be for the glue rather than the resin.
Ken F in WY
Tede, the West Marine epoxy resin and hardener is intended for use with fiberglass cloth. On its own, it is pretty brittle. It does have the advantage of being thin, thus giving better penetration. If you get a double tube of epoxy glue, it is thicker but will still run, will be more flexible, and is actually stronger than the stand alone resin and hardener. My vote would be for the glue rather than the resin.
Ken F in WY
Any particular glue/adhesive you'd recommend for this job?
What would be a good solvent I can use now that will clean the residual thread compound before installing the epoxy glue?
A tap like this?
The epoxy - I like Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. Be sure you thoroughly mix the two components.
The solvent - That's a tough one. I hesitate to put any solvent into a potable water system. I am thinking acetone, using a toothbrush to scrub with. Wear gloves and eye protection, especially because you are probably lying on your back, looking up at the work area. A full face shield would be better. Larry might have other suggestions. Whatever you use, when you are done, thoroughly flush the tank at least once, preferably several times, before using the contents. There are a number of other solvents - MEK, Toluene, methylene chloride, but they have significant health risks. You do not have controlled conditions, and acetone is the primary ingredient in nail polish remover. Thus, other than drying out any skin it touches, it is relatively benign.
The tap - that one looks like a machine thread tap, because at full width its sides are parallel. A pipe die will taper.
Ken F in WY
Any particular glue/adhesive you'd recommend for this job?
What would be a good solvent I can use now that will clean the residual thread compound before installing the epoxy glue?
A tap like this?
I would use a two-part plastic epoxy. I have used J-B Weld's plastic epoxy on many projects .
Amazon.com: J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan... (https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50133-Tan-1-Pack/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=plastic+epoxy&qid=1568509566&s=gateway&sr=8-5)
Nothing I know of dissolves pipe dope, it needs to be mechanically removed, a dental tool for example.
I believe you need a 1/2"-14 NPT tap. It produces a tapered thread, compared to a machine screw's straight thread..
Amazon.com: IRWIN 1905ZR Tap 1/2-14" Npt Pipe: Gateway (https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-1905ZR-Tap-2-14-Pipe/dp/B000GAQEEK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=RWIN+1905ZR+Tap+1%2F2-14%22+Npt+Pipe&qid=1568509279&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0)
Please check the pipe size before acquiring the pipe tap, it might be a 3'4" thread.
Larry
I would use a two-part plastic epoxy. I have used J-B Weld's plastic epoxy on many projects .
Amazon.com: J-B Weld 50133 Plastic Bonder Structural Adhesive Syringe - Tan... (https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50133-Tan-1-Pack/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=plastic+epoxy&qid=1568509566&s=gateway&sr=8-5)
Nothing I know of dissolves pipe dope, it needs to be mechanically removed, a dental tool for example.
I believe you need a 1/2"-14 NPT tap. It produces a tapered thread, compared to a machine screw's straight thread..
Amazon.com: IRWIN 1905ZR Tap 1/2-14" Npt Pipe: Gateway (https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-1905ZR-Tap-2-14-Pipe/dp/B000GAQEEK/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=RWIN+1905ZR+Tap+1%2F2-14%22+Npt+Pipe&qid=1568509279&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0)
Please check the pipe size before acquiring the pipe tap, it might be a 3'4" thread.
Larry
The drain's female threads accept a 3/4" PVC male adapter.
I'll look around for a dental pick. That's a good idea.
Like this?
Amazon.com: Professional Dental Scraper Tool - Dentist Pick, 2-Pack Medical... (http://Professional Dental Scraper Tool - Dentist Pick, 2-Pack Medical Stainless Steel, Dental Tarter Scraper for Tooth Stains Remover, Dentist Home Use Tools [url=https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RBDSYNB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IozFDbTT9B1D6)
Not too late am I? I always have a set of Mechanics Picks in my tool bag. Amazon has several to choose from. Here’s an example. Mayhew Select 60003 4-Piece Mini Hook & Pick Set Mayhew Select 60003 4-Piece Mini Hook & Pick Set - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NABEZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DAzFDb4VSTV17)
JC Performance - 5pc Solid Stainless Probe Picks A/C O-Ring Compression Fitting Gasket Removal Tool Amazon.com: JC Performance – 5pc Solid Stainless Probe Picks A/C O-Ring... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT1SDIR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6FzFDb4AHP0F1)
I’ve also had great results repairing household drains using a similar product as this. Pool & Marine Underwater Epoxy Moldable Putty (Medium (24 oz.)) Amazon.com : Pool & Marine Underwater Epoxy Moldable Putty (Medium (24 oz.))... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BZV948X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WIzFDbXWXMCXB)
https://youtu.be/33b75WBlkok
Like Larry, I’ve also had great results with JB Weld two part epoxy.
Kent
Not too late am I? I always have a set of Mechanics Picks in my tool bag. Amazon has several to choose from. Here’s an example. Mayhew Select 60003 4-Piece Mini Hook & Pick Set Mayhew Select 60003 4-Piece Mini Hook & Pick Set - Hand Tool Sets - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NABEZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DAzFDb4VSTV17)
JC Performance - 5pc Solid Stainless Probe Picks A/C O-Ring Compression Fitting Gasket Removal Tool Amazon.com: JC Performance – 5pc Solid Stainless Probe Picks A/C O-Ring... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MT1SDIR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6FzFDb4AHP0F1)
I’ve also had great results repairing household drains using a similar product as this. Pool & Marine Underwater Epoxy Moldable Putty (Medium (24 oz.)) Amazon.com : Pool & Marine Underwater Epoxy Moldable Putty (Medium (24 oz.))... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BZV948X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WIzFDbXWXMCXB)
https://youtu.be/33b75WBlkok
Like Larry, I’ve also had great results with JB Weld two part epoxy.
Kent
You're not too late Kent.
Your input is much appreciated!
The female tank thread fitting is cracked.
Like Larry and Ron mentioned I'll need to somehow glue it together.
That putty looks very cool and it's tempting to smear it on the threads and then tape it but the crack remains and I'm afraid that thin putty bond would give way.
I was thinking the epoxy would be a good option for repairing the hole that resides outside the threaded area. Sounds like you have your work cut out for you. Best of luck.
I’m not sure if this next video is a solution to your problem. Larry and others may have some input on its content or validity but I found it interesting to say the least.
https://youtu.be/alyzGrgL6So
I remember an episode on “Wheeler Dealers” were they had a plastic bumper welded back together. They had a pro do it, but the above video holds some interesting promise. I’d practice on something else first.
Kent
tedeboy, do you know how far the crack extends from the opening?
Like Larry, I have had good results with JB Weld. It will be a bit thicker when mixed than the Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. That will be good for putting it on your finger, then spreading it above the hole, but not as good for penetrating the crack. I would expect it to do at least as well as the Devcon for holding the crack together, if you can get it in there. As you will be cleaning/reforming the threads with a tap, don't forget Larry's suggestion to use a saw to open up the crack. That would make getting the JB Weld in there much easier. To saw into the crack, a hacksaw blade should do well, using it on the pull stroke.
Ken F in WY
Like Larry, I have had good results with JB Weld. It will be a bit thicker when mixed than the Devcon 2 Ton epoxy. That will be good for putting it on your finger, then spreading it above the hole, but not as good for penetrating the crack. I would expect it to do at least as well as the Devcon for holding the crack together, if you can get it in there. As you will be cleaning/reforming the threads with a tap, don't forget Larry's suggestion to use a saw to open up the crack. That would make getting the JB Weld in there much easier. To saw into the crack, a hacksaw blade should do well, using it on the pull stroke.
Ken F in WY
I'll try and get in there Ken but it's difficult to reach and I only know there's a crack when I stick my finger in the drain and flex it slightly I can see the movement. Impossible to see which direction the crack goes.
I've got the motorhome side skirt, wheel well, and grey tank hindering me. It is one of those jobs where the work space is about 8" narrow and 12" deep. My hands fill this space quickly.
It's difficult to see the drain fitting in detail.
tedeboy, do you know how far the crack extends from the opening?
That's a great question.
I'm going to see of removing the front wheel well cover plate gives me a better look.
Got the front wheel well off. They sure use lots of adhesive. I'm tempted to remove the side skirt also for additional work room.
Tedeboy, cleaning the threads - better than a dental pick or mechanic's pick is the pipe thread tap. It will fit in there and scrape the threads perfectly clean.
I get that you can't easily work your way in there. So, scrape the threads clean with the tap, something you can do by feel. Then, take a piece of 100 grit sandpaper, cut a strip 3/8" wide, insert it part way into the hole, then put your finger in, bend the sandpaper over, and use it to scrub the inner surface clean. Wet a small piece of rag with acetone and wipe that surface clean. If you can fit both hands in there, use one hand to pull the crack open from above and use the other with a toothbrush and acetone to scrub the crack. If only one hand will fit, just scrub with the toothbrush.
When it is dry, you are ready for the JB Weld or epoxy. With a gloved finger, spread some (a lot, because you do not know the direction or extent of the crack) JB Weld on the inner surface. Then, if you can get both hands in there, pull on top to open the crack and work more JB Weld into the crack from below. If only one hand will fit, just spread the JB Weld onto the threads in the hole and run your throw-away pipe in. With it part way in, wiggle it a bit to open the crack. Run it the rest of the way in and wiggle. Remove it, add more JB Weld to the threads and repeat a few times. Remove the pipe and wipe excess JB Weld with a dry cloth, then let it all cure until it is pretty stiff. Run the tap in until you feel the resistance change enough to tell you you have cleaned the threads and are starting to cut, then back the tap out. You can clean the tap with the acetone and a stiff brush. Let everything sit at least 24 hours, then re-assemble and check for leaks.
Good luck!
Ken F in WY
Tedeboy, cleaning the threads - better than a dental pick or mechanic's pick is the pipe thread tap. It will fit in there and scrape the threads perfectly clean.
I get that you can't easily work your way in there. So, scrape the threads clean with the tap, something you can do by feel. Then, take a piece of 100 grit sandpaper, cut a strip 3/8" wide, insert it part way into the hole, then put your finger in, bend the sandpaper over, and use it to scrub the inner surface clean. Wet a small piece of rag with acetone and wipe that surface clean. If you can fit both hands in there, use one hand to pull the crack open from above and use the other with a toothbrush and acetone to scrub the crack. If only one hand will fit, just scrub with the toothbrush.
When it is dry, you are ready for the JB Weld or epoxy. With a gloved finger, spread some (a lot, because you do not know the direction or extent of the crack) JB Weld on the inner surface. Then, if you can get both hands in there, pull on top to open the crack and work more JB Weld into the crack from below. If only one hand will fit, just spread the JB Weld onto the threads in the hole and run your throw-away pipe in. With it part way in, wiggle it a bit to open the crack. Run it the rest of the way in and wiggle. Remove it, add more JB Weld to the threads and repeat a few times. Remove the pipe and wipe excess JB Weld with a dry cloth, then let it all cure until it is pretty stiff. Run the tap in until you feel the resistance change enough to tell you you have cleaned the threads and are starting to cut, then back the tap out. You can clean the tap with the acetone and a stiff brush. Let everything sit at least 24 hours, then re-assemble and check for leaks.
Good luck!
Ken F in WY
I just too this pic.
My best view yet of the crack.
It appears to not go into the body of the tank which I assume is a good thing!
(https://i.postimg.cc/rs01qF7d/20190915-120250.jpg)
It does, however, look like the crack extends through the entire fitting. I was hoping you would be able to drill a larger hole and rethread, using a larger plug, but don’t think that’s possible in this case. Larry and Ken’s solutions are your best bet, I think.
Tedeboy, cleaning the threads - better than a dental pick or mechanic's pick is the pipe thread tap. It will fit in there and scrape the threads perfectly clean.
I get that you can't easily work your way in there. So, scrape the threads clean with the tap, something you can do by feel. ...,
Good luck!
Ken F in WY
I'm wondering if the tap will spread the crack open thus giving me the opportunity to clean it from the outside if I can with a toothbrush?
Thinking in terms of prevention, I'm curious as to what may have caused the crack in the threaded area in the first place. Inherent material weakness? "Off-threading"? Overtightening a connection?
Thinking in terms of prevention, I'm curious as to what may have caused the crack in the threaded area in the first place. Inherent material weakness? "Off-threading"? Overtightening a connection?
It started leaking just sitting which is odd.
The drain valve assembly is heavy brass attached to the PVC pipe coming from the tank. There is a strap around the pipe to limit side to side movement but it isn't very efficient and doesn't relieve the downward pull of the weight.
I'm fairly confident that this weight, after 24 years, contributed to this. I may have exacerbated the issue with tightening but I didn't wrench on it.
Regardless, it is what it is and when I reinstall I'm going to just go with a PVC drain pipe with a hose thread fitting and a cap. I don't want hardly any weight this time.
I just too this pic.
My best view yet of the crack.
It appears to not go into the body of the tank which I assume is a good thing!
I would still want to open the crack up for cleaning and application of epoxy, the crack needs to be completely clean, if possible.
A short piece of a hack saw blade or a dental pick would still be my choice for removing the crack's dirty plastic.
Ken's description is the same method I would use.
The crack in Ted's tank could have been caused by a too long or unsupported drain pipe, the flexing could have caused the crack to appear and grow.
A protruding drain pipe could have been hit hard enough to crack the fitting.
Larry
I would still want to open the crack up for cleaning and application of epoxy, the crack needs to be completely clean, if possible.
A short piece of a hack saw blade or a dental pick would still be my choice for removing the crack's dirty plastic.
Ken's description is the same method I would use.
The crack in Ted's tank could have been caused by a too long or unsupported drain pipe, the flexing could have caused the crack to appear and grow.
A protruding drain pipe could have been hit hard enough to crack the fitting.
Larry
Larry, since getting a blade in there and sawing movement is next to impossible how about I heat up a thin metal of some type like say a razor blade and slice down the crack?
Rather than struggle with this crack and retapping the threads what about gluing in this reducer and going with a 1/2" drain?
Provided there was a bit of clearance so the crack doesn't get pushed apart and for plenty of epoxy glue.
On edit...
The outside diameter of this reducer is too large.
It sounds like you are still looking for ideas.
You might find some here (on a boat forum): Leaking fitting on polyethylene holding tank - Cruisers & Sailing Forums (http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/leaking-fitting-on-polyethylene-holding-tank-149962.html)
Rich
'03 MB in NC
Good pic! That helps.
It looks like the crack extends along the length of the threaded protrusion, but not to the mating of the tank with the fitting. If so, I would not change any of the plans discussed. I would hesitate to cut open the crack, fearing that I would spread the crack to the tank itself. If the crack already reaches the tank, nothing to lose in opening the crack. You might try fitting a small flat bladed screwdriver into the bottom of the crack to spread it, then scrape it clean. That would also facilitate working JB Weld into the crack.
Looking at the pic, I think I would add one thing, if possible. After finishing with the JB Weld, before cleaning the threads with the tap, if there is room, I would try to get a band clamp onto the fixture to hold the crack together, supplementing the strength of the JB Weld work. I think it will be hard to tighten it ( a whole lot of little turns with a small box wrench), but I think it will add a lot to the strength of the repair. With the band clamp in place and snugged up, use the tap to clean the threads, then do the assembly.
Ken F in WY
Good pic! That helps.
It looks like the crack extends along the length of the threaded protrusion, but not to the mating of the tank with the fitting. If so, I would not change any of the plans discussed. I would hesitate to cut open the crack, fearing that I would spread the crack to the tank itself. If the crack already reaches the tank, nothing to lose in opening the crack. You might try fitting a small flat bladed screwdriver into the bottom of the crack to spread it, then scrape it clean. That would also facilitate working JB Weld into the crack.
Looking at the pic, I think I would add one thing, if possible. After finishing with the JB Weld, before cleaning the threads with the tap, if there is room, I would try to get a band clamp onto the fixture to hold the crack together, supplementing the strength of the JB Weld work. I think it will be hard to tighten it ( a whole lot of little turns with a small box wrench), but I think it will add a lot to the strength of the repair. With the band clamp in place and snugged up, use the tap to clean the threads, then do the assembly.
Ken F in WY
Thank you Ken.
A few pictures back I was able to get a band (hose) clamp around the fitting. It's the picture with the boat t handle drain plug I experimented with.
Just remember, pipe taps and threads are tapered. Too much enthusiasm with your tap or the new fitting would most likely crack something else not too tight, lots of teflon and thread compound help. The hose clamp would be a very good idea if you can do it.
Just remember, pipe taps and threads are tapered. Too much enthusiasm with your tap or the new fitting would most likely crack something else not too tight, lots of teflon and thread compound help. The hose clamp would be a very good idea if you can do it.
Good advice. Thanks
tedeboy, do you know how far the crack extends from the opening?
Here's a good pic I took today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rs01qF7d/20190915-120250.jpg)
Wow--excellent picture!
Hi Ted. The picture of the reducer that was too big, was for a 'slip' fitting that is meant to glue into a schedule 40 glued pipe to 'give' it threads. Instead you could use this 3/4" x 1/2" Sch 40 PVC Reducer (T.T.) Bushing Mipt x Fipt 439-101 (https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/439-101-3-4-x-1-2-schedule-40-pvc-reducer-bushing-flush-style.html?matchtype=&network=u&device=c&adposition=&keyword=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIusrxjNbU5AIV1Rx9Ch0scgg-EAQYBCABEgLu7_D_BwE) a threaded insert to reduce the hole to 1/2".
As Jon stated pipe threads are tapered, Because of this as you screw in a fitting it gets tighter. That's how you would stop a leak by tightening a fitting. If it were straight, like a bolt, it would just continue leaking. When you tighten a fitting you are forcibly expanding the fitting that is welded onto the fresh water tank. Putting the plastic surround in tension. As plastic ages, the compounds that give it flexibility evaporate, so eventially the fitting will crack, as yours did. The motion and flexing of the drain pipe, with the weight of the metal valve didn't help. Lighter weight, and a plastic valve would be a better long term solution. Some other more stable material might be better. (Too late for that) A spring type clamp would apply better pressure on the outside of the problem fitting.
A better design would leave a male end of a fitting welded into a tank, sticking out, so that a female threaded part could be screwed onto it. If it cracked at some future date it could be replaced easily. The 'male' stub sticking out of the tank would be in compression, instead of tension. That won't help us now of course. My tank doesn't leak yet, but mine is just a bit newer than yours. So thanks for the preview, I hope your fix works! RonB
Here's a good pic I took today.
(https://i.postimg.cc/rs01qF7d/20190915-120250.jpg)
Perhaps something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ProFlex-Proflex-2-in-x-1-1-4-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3001-2125/205107046?MERCH=REC-_-SearchPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-205107046-_-N
if you can find one sized to fit over the fitting at one end, and over the pipe at the other. I have used these several times to mate uncooperative and dissimilar material pipes of different sizes. The rubber coupling inside is sized differently at each end.
Steve
I'm learning that polyethylene is problematic.
It's difficult to glue.
Here may be a couple of choices.
Loctite 3035 (https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/structural-adhesives/loctite_aa_3035.html)
Permabond TA4610 (https://www.permabond.com/2015/03/31/prepare-bond-polyethylene/)
Perhaps something like this:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/ProFlex-Proflex-2-in-x-1-1-4-in-Neoprene-Shielded-Coupling-P3001-2125/205107046?MERCH=REC-_-SearchPLPHorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-205107046-_-N
if you can find one sized to fit over the fitting at one end, and over the pipe at the other. I have used these several times to mate uncooperative and dissimilar material pipes of different sizes. The rubber coupling inside is sized differently at each end.
Steve
I like your idea however the contact surface isn't smooth. This also is an issue when I use a hose clamp and try to apply even pressure.
(https://i.postimg.cc/J7yw7DZn/20190916-071709.jpg)
I don't think the hose clamp needs to provide even or uniform pressure. Its purpose would be to prevent those tapered pipe threads from pushing open the crack once you have done all that prep work and are doing the assembly. The plastic material has considerable "give" or flex. The steel band clamp would prevent spreading, preserving the repair.
Reading about JB Weld, I find that "J-B Weld is a two-part epoxy adhesive (or filler) that can withstand high-temperature environments. J-B Weld can be used to bond surfaces made from metal, porcelain, ceramic, glass, marble, PVC, ABS, concrete, fiberglass, wood, fabric, or paper." That suggests to me that the Loctite or Permabond materials you found might be a better material than Devcon epoxy or JB Weld. My package of Devcon says, "Not recommended for use on polyethylene or polypropylene plastics."
Ken F in WY
Tedeboy,
I don't necessarily disagree with Ken, but if possible, could you use a dremel tool to remove those 'nubs' that prevent a clamp from applying equal pressure all the way around?
Here's a link to a 3/4" rubber fitting similar to what Steve mentioned. Because of what appears to be a short shoulder on the tank fitting, some trimming of the rubber may be required to allow you to get the clamp up on the shoulder enough to get a good purchase.
Fernco 3/4 in. Dia. x Hub x 3/4 in. Dia. Hub Flexible Coupling - Ace Hardware (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/pipe-fittings/pex-fittings/4901989?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjw5fzrBRASEiwAD2OSV5vF1UAXC89HOD_5YitwWIolJdkF_Dp3NbZyJ4ZiwXN38M-gq675RRoCIz4QAvD_BwE)
Below is a link to a pipe joint sealant I was never without when working on refrigeration equipment. Lots of uses, I still keep some handy.
Highside Chemicals · Leak Lock (https://www.highsidechem.com/leaklock.php)
Bill
Tedeboy,
I don't necessarily disagree with Ken, but if possible, could you use a dremel tool to remove those 'nubs' that prevent a clamp from applying equal pressure all the way around?
Here's a link to a 3/4" rubber fitting similar to what Steve mentioned. Because of what appears to be a short shoulder on the tank fitting, some trimming of the rubber may be required to allow you to get the clamp up on the shoulder enough to get a good purchase.
Fernco 3/4 in. Dia. x Hub x 3/4 in. Dia. Hub Flexible Coupling - Ace Hardware (https://www.acehardware.com/departments/plumbing/pipe-fittings/pex-fittings/4901989?x429=true&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&gclid=CjwKCAjw5fzrBRASEiwAD2OSV5vF1UAXC89HOD_5YitwWIolJdkF_Dp3NbZyJ4ZiwXN38M-gq675RRoCIz4QAvD_BwE)
Below is a link to a pipe joint sealant I was never without when working on refrigeration equipment. Lots of uses, I still keep some handy.
Highside Chemicals · Leak Lock (https://www.highsidechem.com/leaklock.php)
Bill
I did call Highside Chemicals. He said the Leak Lock would work on polyethylene and recommended HVAC/R Instapatch for the outside of the fitting on the crack. That won't work I don't think because the fitting is vertical and not laying flat.
I really like the rubber fitting idea. The link you gave says up to 4 psi. I am not sure what the pressure would be of a full tank though.
InstaPatch (https://youtu.be/JAhetNnYkdA)
I'm trying to decide what I would do if this was mine. The way I see it, you are between a rock and a hard spot. I think I like the idea of opening the crack slightly and maybe using a liberal coating of FC 5200 and thread the whole mess together then a nice bead around the outside bottom area. If it glues everything together, so what that's what your after. Anything that hardens too hard may crack again when you tap and thread in your new adapter. With better access you could have a new fitting welded in.
I think I'll go out and check mine and see how it is supported.
Jon
I'm trying to decide what I would do if this was mine. The way I see it, you are between a rock and a hard spot. I think I like the idea of opening the crack slightly and maybe using a liberal coating of FC 5200 and thread the whole mess together then a nice bead around the outside bottom area. If it glues everything together, so what that's what your after. Anything that hardens too hard may crack again when you tap and thread in your new adapter. With better access you could have a new fitting welded in.
I think I'll go out and check mine and see how it is supported.
Jon
This is a tough situation and I am approaching with trepidation.
My choices are a fix that is "reversible" where the threads remain or a glued in fitting.
I think I have a handle on the glued in option with Loctite 3035 but what if? What if it still leaked?
I may also try Loctite MR 5438 thread locker with the hose clamp. I want to try non permanent fixes first.
Like you Ted I would save the permanent glue fixes for last. Water pressure is about .45 psi per foot of water. A three foot deep tank (I'm sure it is less than that) would be 1.3 psi. A little sloshing, or rapid filling could increase that, but not much. Rapid filling with a hose that restricts outflow could pressurize the tank a lot. Definitely to be avoided. RonB
Have you considered adding an access port on top of the tank to allow you to reach inside. I'm not sure about your floorplan, but on a Mid-Bath you might be able to work something out under the stove.
Rich
'03 MB in NC
Like you Ted I would save the permanent glue fixes for last. Water pressure is about .45 psi per foot of water. A three foot deep tank (I'm sure it is less than that) would be 1.3 psi. A little sloshing, or rapid filling could increase that, but not much. Rapid filling with a hose that restricts outflow could pressurize the tank a lot. Definitely to be avoided. RonB
I would love to try the flexible rubber coupler idea but as you can see there is not enough clearance.
I'm real leery trying to wood chisel that wound away for fear of puncturing the tank.
(https://i.postimg.cc/v8kRSp3D/20190916-152748.jpg)
I installed the hose clamp and tightened it snugly.
I coated the top of the fitting around the crack with the thread sealer.
I then coated the male threads and installed the fitting snugly with an attached pipe which I capped to test after I let it sit for a couple of days.
It says cure time is 24 hours but I am giving it longer.
I will update in a couple of days.
Rectorseal Tru Blu (https://rectorseal.com/product/rectorseal-tru-blu/)
"For pipe made of galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, PVC, CPVC, polyethylene, and reinforced fiberglass."
I installed the hose clamp and tightened it snugly.
I coated the top of the fitting around the crack with the thread sealer.
I then coated the male threads and installed the fitting snugly with an attached pipe which I capped to test after I let it sit for a couple of days.
It says cure time is 24 hours but I am giving it longer.
I will update in a couple of days.
Rectorseal Tru Blu (https://rectorseal.com/product/rectorseal-tru-blu/)
"For pipe made of galvanized steel, iron, brass, copper, aluminum, stainless steel, PVC, CPVC, polyethylene, and reinforced fiberglass."
This attempt leaked. Not much but it leaked.
Next I am going to see if I can try a flex coupling.
My next try.
Good luck. I have nothing more to offer.
Ken F in WY
Good luck. I have nothing more to offer.
Ken F in WY
You've been very helpful and I thank you.
I tested this tube and it held at the connection but I hadn't used and thread sealer for the cap yet so I got drips there. I sealed the cap and tomorrow I will fill near half full and test.
If that holds I'll fill it and drive the rig around.
Looks promising.
I'm hopeful.
Update
Full tank.
No leaks.
I'll drive it soon.
Hurrah! :)
Hurrah! :)
Fingers crossed for the drive test.
I'm going to add a zip tie lasso so I don't lose it if it disengages.
"Hope for the best. Plan for the worst."
I hope the tank repair proves complete and durable. In any event, congratulations on your creativity and perseverance!
Warren
The drive test held and I found every speed bump and pothole I could find.
Yeah it's hokey looking but it's working.
Yeah it's hokey looking but it's working.
the thing about Rube Goldberg devices is that they did work.
That's what counts.
Good repair job and great reporting job.
Thanks
Joel
Okay.
Here is the final final fix ;D
I shortened the down pipe and epoxied the cap on to the end of the pipe so it's essentially a plug now rather than a drain. I didn't want any unnecessary movement as in cap removal.
I'll carry spare parts with me namely a spare flexible collar, house clamps, and heavy duty epoxy just in case.
I fabricated a new wheel well front from wood.
"Here is the final final fix..."
Were I you, I think I'd seal all exposed wood with something like automotive undercoat. ;)
"Here is the final final fix..."
Were I you, I think I'd seal all exposed wood with something like automotive undercoat. ;)
I did give it a coat of paint.
Most likely will last as long as I need it to.
How are you planning on dumping the water tank in the future?
How are you planning on dumping the water tank in the future?
I'll pump it into the grey tank.
I rarely dump it, if at all, anyway when traveling.
We drink bottled water on the road.
The connection to the tank isn't strong enough to support a valve or any torque on a valve.
Ted,
You mentioned, “The connection to the tank isn't strong enough to support a valve or any torque on a valve“.
I would agree that a brass valve may be a bit heavy however PVC valves are a lighter option. Local hardware stores or Amazon can provide the part. SHMONO 1/2'' Valves, Inline PVC Ball Valve, Compact Single Handle Shut-Off... (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VSYV5PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yRvMDbKQAPNJP)
I’d hate to imagine the water flowing through your fresh water pipes after a long overdue flush of the FW Tank.
Just a thought.
Kent
Luckily, flushing the fresh water tank isn't something you need ever do as long as you use your LD often and never let water sit for long periods.
If it is parked for a while, make sure to add a little bleach or chlorine to the tank to prevent any little beasties from growing or just pump it out occasionally and refill with fresh, chlorinated water.
We use our LD often and I can't remember the last time the tank was drained or 'sanitized', we have never experience a problem with water tasting or smelling funny YMMV..
The lack of a drain would be a bigger problem if you lived in a climate that requires winterizing, I think you are safe down in San Diego County.
Larry
Luckily, flushing the fresh water tank isn't something you need ever do as long as you use your LD often and never let water sit for long periods.
If it is parked for a while, make sure to add a little bleach or chlorine to the tank to prevent any little beasties from growing or just pump it out occasionally and refill with fresh, chlorinated water.
We use our LD often and I can't remember the last time the tank was drained or 'sanitized', we have never experience a problem with water tasting or smelling funny YMMV..
The lack of a drain would be a bigger problem if you lived in a climate that requires winterizing, I think you are safe down in San Diego County.
Larry
Yes we use ours a lot.
Similar experience as you with draining in that I can't remember the last time I drained it either.
Thanks Larry
As a fulltimer, I am with Larry. In 11 years, I have never dumped and flushed my fresh water tank. BUT - what if you went somewhere and filled with water and found it to be cloudy looking and/or it did not taste good? You would want to dump and sanitize, right? I consider that option to be important.
You have a PVC pipe from the tank now. You can put a PVC valve on that pipe now or you could leave the cap on and carry a PVC valve and cement "just in case". Then, if you find yourself needing to dump the tank, you could take a hacksaw and cut off the cap, dump, wipe it clean and dry, glue on the valve, and be ready to sanitize in minutes.
With you having glued the cap in place I see no need to change it at this moment, but I would carry what I needed to be able to drain and close that tank in the future, if needed.
Ken F in NM
As a fulltimer, I am with Larry. In 11 years, I have never dumped and flushed my fresh water tank. BUT - what if you went somewhere and filled with water and found it to be cloudy looking and/or it did not taste good? You would want to dump and sanitize, right? I consider that option to be important.
You have a PVC pipe from the tank now. You can put a PVC valve on that pipe now or you could leave the cap on and carry a PVC valve and cement "just in case". Then, if you find yourself needing to dump the tank, you could take a hacksaw and cut off the cap, dump, wipe it clean and dry, glue on the valve, and be ready to sanitize in minutes.
With you having glued the cap in place I see no need to change it at this moment, but I would carry what I needed to be able to drain and close that tank in the future, if needed.
Ken F in NM
If we used the tank for drinking and cooking I would have approached it different for sure.
Thanks Ken good point.
I noticed another had a tank leak.
I wanted to update.
I removed the PVC pipe and installed a much cleaner solution.
I placed the hose clamp around the tank fitting and tightened it. There was just enough room.
This held the fitting's crack together as I cranked a rubber plug directly into the fitting. I ordered a few plugs just in case but it is holding like a champ!
RUBBER PLUG (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0UUGZ2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
"...I cranked a rubber plug directly into the fitting."
So that's where my wine bottle plug went!
Those plugs are great - meant to keep sewer smells away while the pipe is open during remodeling.