I have done due diligence research wise.
Everything works except the lights on either side of the house. (It is not the tubes as I tested with known good ones).
All center ceiling items work.
Fuses on distribution panel are good. (Should I expect a power reading here at all)?
Power test at the outlet is good. (Outlet to be replaced in the next couple days. Just don't know which kind to get).
Note that fan works on one side, but not light. Outlet works on the other side, but not light.
I am stumped.
I have included pics...
Florescents?
Power to the unit?
Lamps work in different unit?
Maybe the ballasts have gone out?
Maybe it's whispering 'LED time?
Florescents?
Power to the unit?
Lamps work in different unit?
Maybe the ballasts have gone out?
Maybe it's whispering 'LED time?
Yes on fluorescents except in center light. LED'S
Tried LED's on both sides but no luck.
No power to side lights. Checked with the new LED's, but no go. Also tested accordingly.
Ballasts? Not sure. How are those checked?
Ballasts? Not sure. How are those checked?
I haven't worked on 12V Florescents but there should be hot and neutral wires coming in thru the wall/ceiling. Is there power at that point? If not, then the issue is upstream. Sorry I can't be more help.
<sigh> what is really need is a good (read accurate) wiring diagram. But having said that I'm guessing an open at a common junction spot.
Like others a said if you are going to go for all this work I would suggest finding the source of the power, correct problem and replace with LED's.
glen
The fluorescent lights in our MH were 12 V not 120 V . The light fixtures won't work with only one bulb installed and if you install LED tubes each fixture will need rewiring and bypass of the ballast before anything works. Don't be fooled by the red and white wires coming into the fixture red is hot (12 v ) and white is ground.
Fuses on distribution panel are good. (Should I expect a power reading here at all)?
How did you check the fuses? Did you check for 12V at each end of each fuse, with the non-functioning lamps turned on? Note that a visible check of the fuse element is inadequate. With age, there are internal stress failures that may not be noticeable.
Steve
How did you check the fuses? Did you check for 12V at each end of each fuse, with the non-functioning lamps turned on? Note that a visible check of the fuse element is inadequate. With age, there are internal stress failures that may not be noticeable.
Steve
Did not but will now. What of this Steve. Just tested for pwr from source to light fixture and it was good. However from the wire nut connection to light switch, the readings were intermittent/arbitrary. What deduction should I come to?
Each place you check, one lead should connect to a known good ground, the other to the point being tested. By good ground, I mean ground at the converter ground. Often I will connect a long wire to the converter that will reach wherever I need to probe. Ground faults are as likely to cause your problem.
Steve
Each place you check, one lead should connect to a known good ground, the other to the point being tested. By good ground, I mean ground at the converter ground. Often I will connect a long wire to the converter that will reach wherever I need to probe. Ground faults are as likely to cause your problem.
Steve
Thanks for your patience.
In ours, I found several grounds that were questionable. The factory gives zero extra wire and they put a bunch of wires under one red wire nut. At this point it doesn't take much to cause problems. I agree with the good ground wire, establish a good ground and trouble shoot from there.
In ours, I found several grounds that were questionable. The factory gives zero extra wire and they put a bunch of wires under one red wire nut. At this point it doesn't take much to cause problems. I agree with the good ground wire, establish a good ground and trouble shoot from there.
Yes, this was an issue even in 1988. All those wires in one wire nut prevented me from adding an auxiliary solar fuse box.
I finally installed a "B-" buss bar for each fuse box. One "B-" near each fuse box, but not connected to anything but the main ground wire, else ground loop noise, and /or ground overloading may occur.