Looking for an effective black water tank flushing system. I have read about this Camco system, which looks pretty good, and wondered if any of our group have used this unit and if the they think it is an effective way to clean the tank. Thanks for your thoughts.
Ian
Silver Fox, 2015 MB, Seattle
Looking for an effective black water tank flushing system. I have read about this Camco system, which looks pretty good, and wondered if any of our group have used this unit and if the they think it is an effective way to clean the tank. Thanks for your thoughts.
Ian
Silver Fox, 2015 MB, Seattle
Do a search for "black tank flusher" and you will see some comments.
Chris
I installed Tornado flushers in our 2003 LD's gray and black tank in March of 2003. They get used all the time and have not failed yet.
A 3-way valve and hose quick disconnect were added to simplify flushing.
Holding tank flusher | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157602104741465/)
(https://live.staticflickr.com/1204/1415578185_3936632a3d.jpg)
Larry
Ian, not sure if it’s the model you mention but I have a brand new one in the garage that I purchased for my last RV but never used. I’ll check tomorrow for the model number. Your welcome to have it for postage to your location.
Yep, that’s the model I have. Yours for the price of shipping if you want it!
On the other hand... I installed one of the Tornado rinsers and it failed (clogged) within a year. So did its replacement, a plain-vanilla nozzle type. So did the one that came preinstalled in my Airstream trailer.
I must not be living right. ;-)
On the other hand... I installed one of the Tornado rinsers and it failed (clogged) within a year. So did its replacement, a plain-vanilla nozzle type. So did the one that came preinstalled in my Airstream trailer.
I must not be living right. ;-)
Andy, perhaps one of these? :D
Amazon.com: Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment by BOSS | Fresh Water Sprayer |... (https://www.amazon.com/Bidet-Attachment-Cleaning-Electric-Warranty/dp/B01DXE2BEC?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01DXE2BEC)
Andy - it might be the difference between full timing and not full timing.
I looked at Amazon reviews - several people had/knew of ones that lasted 6-7 years and several others said it failed out of the box before they even installed it.
Must be a YMMV item.
Jane
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone (https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS)
On the other hand... I installed one of the Tornado rinsers and it failed (clogged) within a year. So did its replacement, a plain-vanilla nozzle type. So did the one that came preinstalled in my Airstream trailer.
I must not be living right. ;-)
It's probably a difference in lifestyle, our rig never goes very long without dumping, most of the time done at home where the the tanks can be throughly flushed with high pressure water. In your LD, you would go for over two weeks without dumping.
The other thing that may help keep our flushers clean is the summertime soak, performed once a year where the tanks are flushed, then filled with fresh water, along with a packet of septic tank enzymes in each tank. The tanks soak for a week or more, preferably in very hot weather, before draining and one last flush. The enzymes clean the walls of the tanks and may be of help in keeping the flusher nozles clean.
When installing a flusher, it is one place where silicone RTV works, it allows the flusher to be pulled and either cleaned or replaced, if necessary. I have seen flushers glued in with ABS cement, with no way to remove them.
Larry
It's disappointing, because I would love for one of these tank rinsers to work. Instead, I use a Hydroflush elbow, which shoots water back up the waste pipe from the dump valve. It definitely helps, but a good rinse nozzle would be better.
Good points, Larry!
I wonder if this would help for a midbath - with it's turns in the waste line.
Flexible Tank Wand (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0187VP-Flexible-Tank-Wand/dp/B000BGHYE8/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=tank+flush+rv&qid=1556022791&s=gateway&sr=8-12)
We have used a straight wand in our TK which helps a lot (put up and down very slowly) but recently we added the hyrdoflush - it hasn't been long enough to form an opinion about it. But I was considering the flexible wand above for our future MB.
Has anyone used the flexible wand in a MB? What is your experience with it?
It's disappointing, because I would love for one of these tank rinsers to work. Instead, I use a Hydroflush elbow, which shoots water back up the waste pipe from the dump valve. It definitely helps, but a good rinse nozzle would be better.
It depends on how the holding tank's outlet are situated. A Hyroflush works great if it is a straight shot into the rear of the tank. Some models are built this way, other models have long plumbing runs before reaching the dump valve.
Amazon.com: Valterra 45 Degree Hydroflush Attachment with Removable Anti-Siph... (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-F02-4100-Hydroflush-Removable-Anti-siphon/dp/B0002UHVAA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Valterra+Hydroflush&qid=1556042018&s=gateway&sr=8-1)
Both of our 1983 LD's holding tanks had straight shots to the rear of the tanks and the Hydroflush worked perfectly.
Our 23.5 FL's gray tank outlet consist of three feet of 1-1/2" ABS pipe, with two tight turns in it. The black tank has a 90 degree turn into it. On our rig, a Hydroflush is an ineffective cleaner and in-tank flushers is the best way of flushing, especially the gray tank, which has no other way of accessing it directly.
In all floor plans, the black tank can always be flushed using a wand and hose, .
Amazon.com: Valterra A01-0184VP Master Blaster Tank Wand with Power Nozzle:... (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0184VP-Master-Blaster-Nozzle/dp/B000BGHYDO/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Valterra+A01-0184VP&qid=1556048661&s=gateway&sr=8-1)
Larry
Years ago, I installed a Camco flush unit on both my black tank and my grey tank. Like Andy's experience, the one on my black tank stopped spinning in its first year. The one on the grey tank is still working.
These days, I use an elbow with hose attachment to jet water into the black tank. It does a great job of cleaning the system from the gate valve up to the tank, but is marginal beyond that. When possible, I use a flexible flush wand that I bought from the factory. It does a great job. In testing, when facilities allowed it, I have used the clear elbow with hose to jet what I could until it ran clear. I then disconnected the hose, and used the flush wand while looking out the window at the clear elbow below me. I got a considerable amount of discolored water out before it began to run clear, so I know the flush wand removed stuff that the elbow does not get out.
Ken F in NM
I am going to get a Camco 40074 "Swivel Stick" to use after a good dose Unique RV Sensor Cleaner to clean the black water tank. Have read good comments about both. I really appreciate the comments from this group and the offer of a different Camco unit with tank mounted nzzles, which I may go to if the present plan does not work. Will keep the group posted. Thank you for the benefit of your experience.
Ian, "Silver Fox"
2015 MB, Seattle
I am going to get a Camco 40074 "Swivel Stick" to use after a good dose Unique RV Sensor Cleaner to clean the black water tank. Have read good comments about both.
To clean the tanks, the septic tank enzyme soak does a good job of removing the coating in the holding tanks, working better than the Sensor Cleaners.
Our 16 years old Factory tank sensors still work perfectly, the tanks get the treatment every summer.
Flush the tanks, fill with fresh water and to each tank add one packet of septic tank enzymes. Let soak for a week of longer before dumping. This is best done in warm or hot weather, to speed up the process.
To eliminate sensor misreadings, the other solution is to install a SeeLevel tank monitor .
Larry
To clean the tanks, the septic tank enzyme soak does a good job of removing the coating in the holding tanks, working better than the Sensor Cleaners.
Our 16 years old Factory tank sensors still work perfectly, the tanks get the treatment every summer.
Flush the tanks, fill with fresh water and to each tank add one packet of septic tank enzymes. Let soak for a week of longer before dumping. This is best done in warm or hot weather, to speed up the process.
To eliminate sensor misreadings, the other solution is to install a SeeLevel tank monitor .
Larry
This process works. I've done it ever since Larry posted it many moons ago.
Chris
"Flush the tanks, fill with fresh water and to each tank add one packet of septic tank enzymes. Let soak for a week of longer before dumping."
I'll bet this procedure works well. Unfortunately, it isn't very practical for a full-timer.
Larry, Do you use a particular septic tank enzyme packet? I use an enzyme packet for my house septic system but the tank is cement walled. Don't want to compromise walls of LD. Thanks.
A bit off topic --- at the risk of using authority as a statement of fact , my first job as a young boy age 13 was to clean out septic tanks on our farm and others. It was my uncle's business. I leaned very fast what should go in a septic tank and what should not. Frankly the best way to keep a septic tank clean is to NOT let anything that hasn't gone thru your body go into the tank. Toilet paper and hygiene products were our best friends. IMHO nothing I know or heard about works as best as not putting it in there in the first place.
We have for almost five years put nothing in the black tank that has not gone thru our bodies. All paper and other products go into a special bag next to the toilet. Every four or five dumps we do a strong water clean out of the black tank - flush till clear. Our sensors still work perfectly <smile> ok a prefect as they can.
An in-ground septic tank and an RV waste holding tank are very different in form, function, treatment, and "emptying" procedures. A septic tank is designed to allow liquids to run off through leach lines, usually 4" drain pipes with regularly-spaced holes to allow liquid to escape into drain rock lined covered ditches into a leach "field"; the bigger the tank, the larger the field. (We used "Orangeburg" pipe in the three systems on my properties; ABS drain pipe is standard now.)
In a septic tank, the "sludge" is removed from by a pump-out every few years; the most common bacteria-enzyme treatment for a septic tank is Rid-X. This is a slow-acting bacteria-enzyme that helps to liquidate the sludge so it remains "pump-able". An RV holding tank is not a septic tank; its job is to temporarily contain waste until it can be emptied. (Yes, sometimes a holding tank is vacuum-pumped if there is no dump station or sewer outlet, but this is not the usual procedure.) An RV holding tank, even on the largest RVs, is a lot smaller than a septic tank, and the waste treatment and emptying procedures are different and far more frequent than a septic tank; one may find that using a bacteria-enzyme product designed for RV holding tanks, i.e., faster-acting and greater amounts of "waste chompers", can be effective in breaking down (enzymes), then liquidating (bacteria) waste.
Two popular bacteria-enzyme products for RV holding tanks are Pure Power and Digest It; in my experience, Digest It is more effective. However, if the waste tanks on one's RV are small, frequent dumping is necessary, and plenty of water is used with each flush of solid waste, even a bacteria-enzyme product may not be necessary; the products do take a bit of time to do their work.
Please do NOT use a tank treatment product with formaldehyde, or some "home brew" concoction with caustic chemicals that can murder the good bacteria and damage seals. Never leave the black tank drain line open and hooked up to a sewer connection! (Some people leave the grey tank valve open and connected to a sewer outlet, I do not, but YMMV.) Dump when the tanks are at least 2/3 full, use plenty of water with each flush, thoroughly flush the black and grey tanks after each dump, if possible, or if not, as often as you can. Wipe pots, dishes, and utensils with paper towels before washing them, use stainless steel mesh strainers in the sink and shower to keep hair and "gubbins" out of the drains, and use the same bacteria-enzyme product in the grey tank that is used in the black; a poorly maintained grey tank can stink worse than a black tank. (I agree with not putting anything down the toilet unless it has gone through one's system first; this includes TP, another "YMMV" point.)
A few years ago, a friend bought a R------k van; the dealer told her that she could put anything down the sink drains and toilet that she did at home because the system was so well-designed that it would handle it. When the inevitable came to pass, I suggested that she return to the dealer and hand him a shovel. A very expensive "s--- happens" lesson.
As ever, YMMV.
Larry, Do you use a particular septic tank enzyme packet? I use an enzyme packet for my house septic system but the tank is cement walled. Don't want to compromise walls of LD. Thanks.
I have used this product for many years. Amazon.com: ZEP Commercial Drain Care Drain & Pipe Build-up Remover (Removes... (https://www.amazon.com/Commercial-Build-up-Remover-Removes-Prevents/dp/B00XIKFHZW)
Chris
I agree with Joan, septic tanks are very different than RV holding tanks. Septic tanks are designed so the material leaving the tank is processed enough it will easily disperse thru the leach field with no smells. We were told that enzymes are not required as they naturally come out of our bodies (we did add something like ridX once every year or two). The septic tank is designed to let liquid material only out (e.g. the pipe leaving the tank for the leech field is about a foot above the bottom of the tank, typically with a screen on it), so that there should be some material always at the bottom of the tank "developing".
Older septic tanks can be touchy (I just googled and reports says the tank can last for 50 years), though problems can develop if there is too much rain (or too many people using the home regularly so too much toilet water) as they are designed for a set amount of liquid to go thru the leech field. Also driving heavy things over the leech field or the pipe between the tank and field can cause collapses of the leech system/pipe resulting in problems.
Ours was an early 1970s septic system (we were in it in the 90s) and it handled TP just fine, but I have heard of others that had older systems that didn't handle TP well. Nothing else should go down it.
RV tanks do not really have time to fully process what is in the black tank the same way septic does (gets emptied too often). So it is more a matter of having things fully come out and the tanks being fully cleaned.
That said, we do use the Valtera Pure Power Blue (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BDEP5ZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) that Joan mentioned and it helps keep the odors down and I allow myself to believe it helps liquefy things though I have not done any experiments to see it it makes a difference using it vs not using anything. It was recommended to us by State Trailer saying that people reported to them it worked best.
Joan, thanks for the name of the second brand, we will have to check it out.
Jane
I just checked the digest it product that Joan mentioned. It looks very intriguing. They make products specifically for hot weather, for dry camping (when water is conserved so not that much used in the tanks), and for full timing. As well as sensor cleaners, etc.
uniquecampingmarine.com products (https://uniquecampingmarine.com/collections/rv-products)
I agree septic tanks are different then black tanks but ..... (no pun intended) there is always a but. We, my uncle and I, also had and cleaned portable potties. Yes the ones you see at fairs and what not. Most of what you see and smell are chemicals to make then smell nice. Bottom line without going into details is soap and water (H2O) is the best chemical. Soap is a surfactant. (surfactant is a chemical that helps to brake down other chemicals) A good stream and brushing is cheaper than any chemical treatment. Dump then wash till clean (clear flow from tank) that's all ya need. Cheap and effective.
glen
I agree septic tanks are different then black tanks but ..... (no pun intended) there is always a but. We, my uncle and I, also had and cleaned portable potties. Yes the ones you see at fairs and what not. Most of what you see and smell are chemicals to make then smell nice. Bottom line without going into details is soap and water (H2O) is the best chemical. Soap is a surfactant. (surfactant is a chemical that helps to break down other chemicals) A good stream and brushing is cheaper than any chemical treatment. Dump then wash till clean (clear flow from tank) that's all ya need. Cheap and effective.
glen
Update: after mentioning that I've had three different tank rinsers clog over the years, I should say that this morning when I gave the factory-installed one in my Airstream another try just for the heck of it, it started working!
Most likely reason: last time I dumped, I used my HydroFlush elbow to backflush the tank for about twenty minutes (yes, I cringed at the waste of water!), until my SeeLevel tank gauge read "0". (Normally it goes down only to about five or ten percent.) That must have been enough to clean off the in-tank nozzle.
Conclusion: an in-tank rinser may work... if you periodically use a different rinser (e.g., HydroFlush) to rinse the rinser! I'll see how long this lasts...
I have installed and successfully used the Camco Quickie Flush in several motorhomes I have had over many years. It is just a fixed nozzle spray head mounted at the opposite end from the drain outlet of the black tank. It sprays in several directions (sides, down, and forward). I very slightly enlarged the spray holes for an increased water flow. After the initial draining (I have a clear plastic adapter fitted to the drain pipe to see when the tank is empty) I will close the drain valve and partially fill the black tank for an additional flush until the water is clear. I also put a dishwasher soap packet in with a deodorant packet for the next cycle of use. This helps keep the tank surfaces cleaner. As I have the Rear Bath I can look down through the toilet to see when the tank is nearing the full level. The level gauge never worked well for the black tank anyway. It is okay for the other tanks.
Quickie Flush with 8' hose (http://www.camco.net/holding-tank-cleaning/quickie-flush-with-8-hose-quickie-flush-with-8-hose-40123)