Hi all,
Today I moved my LD back to my house and plugged everything in. I realized today I'd never even hooked up the water, though I have no idea why. It seems to work fine and other than an initial dribble at the inlet on the rig, which went away after tightening, no issue there.
But what about leveling for the fridge? I am parked in my driveway on a slight slope. The level on the dash shows within 1 mark of 0, so I'm good from side to side. But front to back is not good. I also got a mini level for my fridge (suggested at the RV shop), and it's way off. I don't want to risk messing up the fridge so I want to level out my LD before turning on the fridge. She is nose down, so I pulled her on to a single layer of bricks (with more built up in front of it to help keep her in place), but it's still not close to level.
My dad said either get ramps or leveling jacks (I think that's what he said). What's the consensus here? What's the safest and most secure way of leveling? And how do you level one side and not the other, etc?
Another question- anyone know if you can swap out the hideous fluorescent tubes in the longer overhead lights with LED tubes? I went to Home Depot and the LED had to match the ballasts. Ugh, ok....
And finally, just a cool thing- I have Wyze security cameras that you can monitor from a cell phone. My dad suggested trying one as a back up camera. They require a WIFI connection. So I set up my Verizon MIFI in the RV and connected the Wyze camera- now I can see great behind my RV! Only problem is it is like looking at it as if you were looking out the window, so things are on the wrong side. But it's still great to have that blind spot removed. AND I can run the Wyze camera off an external battery back when the 120V is not available (like when I'm driving). Very cool. I also like that I have security cameras in my RV while I'm staying somewhere else. Nice way to keep tabs on it!
Lisa G
These levels are common: Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028PJ10K/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) You can put more under one tire than another tire, so easier to get them them height you want them. They are reasonably small and light.
Other people use pieces of wood or flat pieces of plastic (what came with our rig).
Do a search on led lights and you will find good information on how to put LED lights into those fluorescent lights.
Thanks! Mine came with a couple pieces of wood. But one got lost during my move and the one left isn't really high enough to level where it's parked right now.
I will check out the link.
Thank you,
Lisa
Hi, Lisa--
You are accomplishing so much--congratulations on your adventure! Many folks do well & swear by the ease of using leveling blocks, & my late farmer father made his own out of 2x12 lumber for their Pace Arrow class A back in the '80s...of course Dad had Mother to help set up, so he didn't have to GOAL for every movement.
I'm a solo, & chose to have Big Foot levelers installed--they put the controller under the driver's seat with about two feet of cable so it easily reaches up into my lap, or between the front seats when I'm in the lounge area. I can put my Feet down from the comfort of the rig without having to get out in rain or snow or bitter cold wind, & though I've so far not been in a situation that felt sketchy, I could pick up my Feet & go pretty quickly without having to get off the blocks, if need be. My Feet operate in pairs, so I can easily adjust front-back/side-side...I use Dad's large level (about 18" long--easier to read from a distance) on the table console & have a small torpedo level I check the fridge with. Only at my aunt's retirement facility did I need to put anything under the Feet, because the street was crowned so much that I put a Lynx block + 2x12 on the curbside front & back.
Re: hooking up to water. You may want to read some of the cautionary tales of misadventures on the site...at the least, consider turning off your supply line when you're away from the rig; I just use out of my fresh tank & replenish as needed. Joan's mantra applies: YMMV.
Thx for sharing your journey.
Lynne
I'm a solo, & chose to have Big Foot levelers installed--they put the controller under the driver's seat with about two feet of cable so it easily reaches up into my lap, or between the front seats when I'm in the lounge area.
Re: hooking up to water. You may want to read some of the cautionary tales of misadventures on the site...at the least, consider turning off your supply line when you're away from the rig; I just use out of my fresh tank & replenish as needed. Joan's mantra applies: YMMV.
Thx for sharing your journey.
Lynne
Hi Lynne,
Thanks for that info. For now I think I'll try out the cheap and easy leveling solutions until I figure out my long-term RV goals. The Big Foot things sound interesting.
As for the water- I like to err on the side of caution so I definitely turned the water off before I left! I also got one of those pressure regulators which I apparently erroneously connected to the tap itself before connecting the hose instead of to the inlet on my RV. But since it should regulate the pressure either way, I think it'll be ok. I'll switch it out when I go back.
I also turned off the propane.
Since i need to be able to use the fridge this week, I will probably just order those Lynx levelers via Amazon prime so I can get them ASAP.
Hopefully they'll work. Seems like I may need a lot, since the bricks are almost 3" high and haven't been enough. :/
Lisa G.
Sorry- another mundane Q for which I found no answer from past posts-
Recommendations for battery operated carbon monoxide/smoke detectors?
I have been unable to find a propane alarm in my LD. I don't know where it would be, but I've looked along the baseboards and see nothing. There is an old smoke detector on the ceiling with a missing battery, so I figure I should just replace it with a smoke/Carbon monoxide detector. The smoke detector is not hard wired.
Thoughts? Brands? Links?
Lisa G.
Lisa, can you post some photos of your current parking situation?
I use this one in the rig and in the house.
First Alert Smoke Detector and Carbon Monoxide Detector Alarm | Battery... (https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-SCO5CN-Combination-Monoxide/dp/B000MXJ498/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=CO+and+smoke+detector&qid=1553693372&s=gateway&sr=8-3)
Links to the LPG alarm; white and 'brown' versions:
Amazon.com: MTI Industries 30-442-P-WT Propane Gas Alarm – White: Gateway (https://www.amazon.com/MTI-Industries-30-442-P-WT-Propane-Alarm/dp/B000AMBHG4/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1I1P0LUWWXY26&keywords=lpg+detector&qid=1553693447&s=gateway&sprefix=LPG+detector%2Caps%2C217&sr=8-13)
Amazon.com: MTI Industries 30-442-P-BR Safe T Alert 30 Series Propane/LP Gas... (https://www.amazon.com/Industries-30-442-P-BR-Alert-Propane-Alarm/dp/B003D32OK0/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_5/135-9762245-8401840?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003D32OK0&pd_rd_r=9004dbf2-5094-11e9-b40d-c5ba70b48a31&pd_rd_w=AMjWb&pd_rd_wg=iMXMZ&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=8TCXCJW97DZKSPS2E3QS&psc=1&refRID=8TCXCJW97DZKSPS2E3QS)
Check several sites for the best prices on Lynx levelers; prices and shipping charges do vary. I have used Lynx levelers for many years; they are inexpensive, versatile, tough, and provide a wide-enough surface to support the entire footprint of the tire. I suggest not getting the cheap yellow things from CW (or anyplace else) because they often crack and/or shatter. Also, be sure to block both duals if levelers are used under the rear wheels.
Leveling.
It's about the refrigerator. The LD manual explains that if water drains normally then its ok. Off by a bubble or so is not a big deal.
Fresh Water Tank and Water Pump.
The large majority of us live out of the fresh water tank. We fill the tank and use the internal water pump to get fresh water. In fact the only time I ever used the outside water hookup was the first day I owned 'Baxter'. After that it always been the tank.
I do suggest buying a water alarm. Water outside the water tank is no friend of the rv unless you have it contained.
First Alert Wa100 Battery Operated Water Alarm - - Amazon.com (https://www.amazon.com/First-Alert-Wa100-Battery-Operated/dp/B00433OTHU/ref=sr_1_36?keywords=water+alarm&qid=1553694792&s=gateway&sr=8-36)
"Off by a bubble or so is not a big deal."
-----
Operating an absorption, 'gravity-powered' RV refrigerator out of level, particularly out of level front to rear, will shorten the life of the refrigerator. While it may be true to say that 'modern' RV refrigerators are more forgiving of off-level operation than older refrigerators, the tubes are still prone to blockage if the refrigerator is consistently operated off-level.
An occasional 'half a bubble off' orientation for short periods may not affect the performance or longevity much, but operating off-level can create a lot of heat, and particularly if there's poor ventilation. The sodium chromate (anti-corrosive for the ammonia refrigerant) can crystallize and block the pipes of the cooling unit; a particularly vulnerable area for blockage is in the narrow percolator tube.
If there's a smell of ammonia or yellow powder in the refrigerator compartment, the cooling unit is toast. A cooling unit may be able to be repaired, but it's expensive and finding competent repair services may be very difficult.
YMMV, as always, but try hard to stay 'in the bubble'.
Lisa,
We do not have automatic levelers on our RB. With this in mind, I go to great lengths to maintain a very level rig when the fridge is operating.
This topic was covered during the last Morro Bay GT. The “Gold Standard” for assuring a properly leveled LD was to place a “Bulls Eye” bubble level in the bottom of the refrigerator. Simply remove the two trays for the vegetables and place the level centered on the bottle of the fridge.
I shoot for perfectly centered but am pleased to get a 1/4 to a 1/2 bubble off center. I won’t quit until I’m within those parameters.
I made leveling blocks from 2x6 pine boards (my next set will be of laminated plywood for added durability) that I have designed to be tri-level and pinned together with plastic dowels about 1/8” in diameter. I also use the plastic levelers purchased at the Mothership when needed.
Here is a shot of our blocks and usage. Don’t mind the squirrel he’s just checking on my work. 🧐
Keeping a level head and rig,
Kent
Kent, I see you had a furry helper. 😂
Yes indeed. He works for peanuts. 🤗
Lisa, you can usually get a bag of Lynx blocks at larger Walmarts.
Bob
We carry two leveling ramps and two set of Lynx leveling blocks, or what I call the adult legos.
With the ramps and blocks, there are times when everything is used to level the rig.
The ramps are made of 3/4" and 1" exterior plywood, with internal blocking, and are coated with marine epoxy, they need to be strong to support the weight.
Make sure to buy 'Lynx' brand blocks, they hold up where the cheaper blocks can shatter, especially in very cold weather.
Amazon.com: Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0028PJ10K)
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1228/1416451648_261d21c396.jpg)
Plywood ramps- carried in LD | Ramps dimensions 30 inches Lo… | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/1416451648/in/album-72157602095132726/)
Also carried are two 18" X 18"- 3/4" plywood boards, for use under the Lynx blocks to prevent them from sinking when the soil is very soft or when using jacks on soft ground.
Do yourself and the your rig and favor and not use the city water connection. The inlet valves develop tough to fix leaks and the entire LD's water system is exposed to whatever water pressure surges exist, unless a high quality pressure regulator is used.
Most of us old timers only use water from the onboard tank, supplied by the water pump, refilling when necessary .
Other than a past failed water pump, our 16 year old LD's original water system is fully intact.
Larry
HELP.
I got the lynx levelers and blocks. But I can't get this damn thing level!! I've tried various heights on each sides and based on the level in the fridge, the front left needs a bit of height. But no matter what I do ( add to one side, remove from other, go forward, move back) I can't her any better than what I have without the blocks. What am I doing wrong??
HELP.
I got the lynx levelers and blocks. But I can't get this damn thing level!! I've tried various heights on each sides and based on the level in the fridge, the front left needs a bit of height. But no matter what I do ( add to one side, remove from other, go forward, move back) I can't her any better than what I have without the blocks. What am I doing wrong??
My Lazy Daze book said the one sure spot that was level was the flooring in front of the range. I got that level perfect than I put a couple levels on the frig door and the wall beside the frig and attached them. I now level to those levels and can see at a glance where I need to adjust be it front, back, left or right. The first time is always the worst because you have to wrap your head around what the bubble is telling you. I like the kind of level you have over your drivers door you can tell exactly how many blocks to use. Some times it is just easier to start all over, maybe drink a beer and it'll just fall in place.
It might not be right but it works for me....
Jon......
Lisa, the rig has to be leveled, usually by taking it to an empty parking lot and using a couple of 'carpenter's levels' or the like to square everything side-to-side and front to back, before placing the level markers in the rig; if the rig is not level before the markers are placed, and the markers (bubble or graduated levels) aren't synched with the levels the carpenter's levels indicate, the level markers will not read correctly. It doesn't work just to plop the levels on the door or dashboard or in the refrigerator or in front of the stove or anywhere else; at least, it did not for me.
The instructions that came with the levels should have contained this information.
But no matter what I do ( add to one side, remove from other, go forward, move back) I can't her any better than what I have without the blocks. What am I doing wrong??
Here is the method:
1) Level side-to-side - On the low side, place one block under each rear wheel and the front wheel, and recheck. If still low, add another block to each of those wheels. Continue until level side-to-side.
2) Level front-to-back - at the low end (we'll say it's the front, since that is easiest) add an additional block under each front wheel until level.
Note that this method works perfectly, but if the ground is soft allowing the blocks to sink, you will be fighting a losing battle.
Steve
When leveling our rig (RB), I actually place my bulls eye bubble level between the sink and stove top. Of course this location might work well for a RB but not for other models, this is why Larry mentioned at the MBGT to simply place the level in the fridge as I mentioned earlier.
I start my leveling by placing the level (wherever appropriate for you) with no blocks under the tires. I then lift the level slowly around its perimeter and watch in which direction the bubble travels to achieve the center of the bullseye. Keep in mind that the circular level still represents the four corners of the rig front to back and left to right.
If I need to lift the front right corner of the level to get the bubble to go to center, I put a block at a time under the front right tire. I make a mental note of how well the block has effected the bubbles journey to center. If it hasn’t reached center yet, I’ll add another block under that tire and check again.
Sometimes I only need to raise one front tire. Sometimes I’ll need to block both rear dually sets and a front tire. You just need to practice a bit. With time, you’ll get better at the job.
Depending on what the bubble shows at first will determine my approach to leveling the rig. Jalama Beach had me spend 30 minutes leveling. I actually removed my blocks and started over again once or twice. It can definitely become a challenge.
It’s no wonder so many RV owners have powered levelers. Here’s a quick video in case you haven’t viewed one already. https://youtu.be/dnH3ZQEEyWY
You’ll notice that in the video they are pulling forward onto the levelers. I always back onto the leveling blocks. (note: I do not use the device advertised in the video but the jist of the video still demonstrates the leveling technique)
Your drive way is a good place to practice. Good luck. And don’t give up.
Kent
Lisa, the rig has to be leveled, usually by taking it to an empty parking lot and using a couple of 'carpenter's levels' or the like to square everything side-to-side and front to back, before placing the level markers in the rig; ...
The instructions that came with the levels should have contained this information.
Hi,
Those levels were there when I bought the LD. I thought they were part of the original package. The only one I've added is the tiny one I'm trying in the fridge.
I did my best and got as close as I could. I'm limited in where i can move in that confined area. I got more Lynx levelers today but I am not very comfortable with the placement, though they say no more than 5" and it's just at or below that.
I have turned on the fridge. I left for the evening but it had been on for about 30 minutes and did not feel like it had cooled down at all, so maybe it's not even going to work now. That would figure. I guess I'll find out when I return tomorrow.
A new issue has arisen- I emptied the tiny bit of water in the fresh tank and tried to fill it with a hose. I don't know what's wrong now, but I could not run the water any more than a few seconds without the water being spit back out at me. I swear there is a troll living in my LD.
Now what?? Why can't I fill the tank??
Lisa, re: the water - try filling slower. I had a TT with a similar filler as the LD and too high volume/pressure filled the tubing and caused backup like on the freeway when it hits saturation. Also, the tubing might have a kink that will obstruct higher flow rates.
On leveling- it appears the rear end is on black gravel. Is that stable enough for the lynx levelers, or do they sink a bit into the ground? If they do, get a piece of plywood to distribute the weight. I think Larry W. carries some 18"x18" pieces for that.
Lisa, From the photos of the levels the rig looks ok level wise side to side but the front end of the motor home still needs to go higher. You could try putting those bricks under the orange level squares to give yourself some more height. Just group the bricks together so they are flat as possible and under the whole length of the orange level squares. Or go out and buy yourself more squares or some wood as wide or wider then the squares.
As per filling the water tank, turn down the water hose valve so it fills slower. With practice you won't get a shower. When the tank is full it will shoot water back out at you. When the tank is full and you turn on the pump it is normal for it to sputter and spray everywhere as the air gets pumped out of the lines when you open any of the faucets if you had run the tank empty. Again with practice you won't get a shower.
When turning the fridge on it can take overnight or over 24 hours for the inside to cool down. If there is a lot of warm contents inside the fridge it will take even longer. RV fridges take longer to cool then house fridges.
JohnF
2003 T/K and 1987 MP w/Roof Sleeper(for sale)
Lisa with the Lynx blocks and the photos. With the photos with more blocks under the tires you want to move that orange stop forward a half block so that the tire will lay flat on the whole square. The way it is in the photo it looks like the back part of your tire is hanging in the air. Maybe someone else can explain it better or maybe it is just the photo.
JohnF
2003 T/K and 1987 MP w/Roof Sleeper(for sale)
The way it is in the photo it looks like the back part of your tire is hanging in the air.
JohnF
2003 T/K and 1987 MP w/Roof Sleeper(for sale)
That was exactly my concern. I just don't get these lynx blocks because the chock blocks (?) have to be on only a half block in order for them to fit, so you need even MORE of the lynx blocks just to utilize the stop. I'm hesitant to get more lynx levelers because at this rate I won't have any room in my RV for anything but the levelers when I go anywhere
The black stuff is a layer of mulch- it's cement underneath. The mulch was the realtor's solution to unsightly concrete. ::)
I did turn on the fridge, and it is cooling off. I was worried so drove all the way back to my house to check.
And here's a new mystery- the ceiling light and separate ceiling vent/fan are working again. They have not worked since they were at the RV shop. I tried them before on and off shore power and they did not work. I tried them yesterday and they did not work. Tonight they worked. Is this related to being level? Or is it the troll?
Lisa G.
Lisa, re: the water - try filling slower. I had a TT with a similar filler as the LD and too high volume/pressure filled the tubing and caused backup like on the freeway when it hits saturation. Also, the tubing might have a kink that
On leveling- it appears the rear end is on black gravel. Is that stable enough for the lynx levelers, or do they sink a bit into the ground? If they do, get a piece of plywood to distribute the weight. I think Larry W. carries some 18"x18" pieces for that.
Lisa,
John said, “The way it is in the photo it looks like the back part of your tire is hanging in the air. Maybe someone else can explain it better or maybe it is just the photo”.
It is important to have the entire bottom of the tire completely supported. That is from front to back and side to side. Doing so will protect the internal belt structure of the tire and prevent damage to the sidewalks.
It isn’t unusual for me to finally get the rig leveled the way I like it only to find that a tire or two is hanging off one end of a block or a sidewall is not being supported.
It can be a bit frustrating to pull off the blocks because I “missed it by that much”. Hang in there. It’s all worth it.
Kent
Well crap. Unfortunately I'm back at my sublet in another town and I left the LD as shown in the last pics. I'll have to go get MORE lynx tomorrow and readjust then. I would really like to find a less expensive and complicated way to level!
Lisa
p.s. I think selling those things in 10 packs is really annoying and intentional- there is no way 10 of those will work to level with at least TWO wheels. >:(
quote without comment from LD factory manuel ......
"The motorhome must be reasonably level anytime it is parked and the refrigerator is on. The motorhome is considered reasonably level, when it can be lived in comfortably i.e. the sinks and showers drain normally. etc. This means no obvious slanting of the coach. "
Lisa,
If you know anyone with a skill saw, you can have wooden ramps like mine (with or without the angled cut out on the end) for the cost of a couple of 2x6” 8’ planks of pine.
Any Home Depot will cut the lumber for a minimal charge.
Just a thought.
Kent
"The motorhome is considered reasonably level, when it can be lived in comfortably..."
A good indicator of 'level' is when the bathroom, shower and/or fridge doors will remain in place, without swinging open or closed, once they are placed at the mid-way position. ;D ;)
Lisa,
If you know anyone with a skill saw, you can have wooden ramps like mine (with or without the angled cut out on the end) for the cost of a couple of 2x6” 8’ planks of pine.
Any Home Depot will cut the lumber for a minimal charge.
Just a thought.
Kent
I actually bought an 8' plank of 2x6" and had it cut into 3 pieces. My dad told me to put it up against some bricks and use it as a ramp. But to me they don't seem wide or strong enough. Looking at your (Kent) pictures, I understand what you are saying. But I'm not clear what that red thing is and what would keep your tires in place besides the brakes. I'm skittish about being inside a 5 ton vehicle when parked on a slope and relying on "park" and the brakes.
Lisa, the “red things” are the leveling ramps sold by the mothership. They don’t have “stops,” but I think it’s the rare rig I ever see that uses any stops. The parking brake and the “park” position on the tranny should be all you need if you have achieved a reasonable degree of level. If you’re still so sloped that you fear rolling off the blocks or ramps, you’re not level! Leveling is almost an art, and we all have been frustrated at our own attempts, and wildly amused by those of our fellow campers. It will take a while, but you eventually will be able to gauge when you have moved up each level and to hit the brake to stay in the center of the block. It does help to have a spotter when learning. It saves a lot of trips in and out of the cab. Keep trying! — Jon
Lisa, this may not work in your particular driveway situation but, for future reference, you can also dig out a trench on the high side(s) to help achieve level. I agree with the others that it doesn’t need to be perfect. My wife says I’m a half bubble off anyway so I subscribe to that when leveling.
Lisa,
As Jon said, the red ramps are the ones sold at the Mothership.
As it has been mentioned in another “parking brake” thread, Joan mentioned the importance of setting the parking brake when the rig is on an incline (on a ramp or a hill). With the break set prior to shifting into park, the transmissions “parking pawl” and the brake will stop any movement of the rig. This simple step has kept me on the ramps without fear of rolling off in the middle of the night or high winds (like the ones at Jalama Beach).
My wooden ramps do not slide on top of each other when I back up onto them due to the plastic pins I insert through them (see previous pics). The Red Ramps from the Mothership have not yet been pinned through the wooden ramps, yet, and do tend to slip backward slightly when they are on top of my wooden ramps.
As you get used to “slowly” pulling/backing onto the ramps, you will feel the rise on the ramps and know when you have reached the elevation you desire.
Leveling is not necessarily an art form but rather a skill set that most RV owners master after a bit of practice.
You’ll get it.
Kent
OK, I changed the stops. This is as good as it is going to get for now.
Side note - when I first plug into shore power my fridge takes a while to switch to AC. When I choose AC it goes to gas. After A few minutes of trying it finally stays on AC.
ALSO odd - that vent and light not working again. Very Annoying.
ALSO odd - that vent and light not working again. Very Annoying.
Did you check the switch? :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXaw70X7wb4
Lisa, water. Beside the fresh water inlet opening is a small opening (pen tip size) with a plastic thing stuck in it (like a thick wire with a bump on the end - ok I will dig up a picture cause the sounds crazy to me).
Make sure that tiny opening is opened up - it lets air out so the water can go in.
One day I thought ok, that whatever-it-is should be covered and the water struggled to go in like you described. Lesson learned.
I have been unable to find a propane alarm in my LD.
Lisa, we have a 89TK and there is no propane alarm in it. I don't think they put it in back then. This is in our list of things to add (towards the top).
There was no CO monitor when we got it, we added a portable battery one right away that we just rest on the floor for now. And we replaced the old fire/smoke detector (battery run on the ceiling. I didn't think of a LP monitor despite people talking about it until a lightbulb went off a couple of months ago (sometimes that forest of upgrading an older LD is so think individual trees don't stick out well).
Note: While there are fire alarm/CO combos, CO gathers low on the floor, fire smoke/heat gathers high in the ceiling. So it is recommended to have one close to the floor for CO.
The LP detectors we found on amazon also detect CO. They are all 12v, no battery run ones. Note: Once it is in, from reading the forums these monitors are something that can run down your battery if you have it in storage and are not trickle charging it.
In the TKs, in at least some of them, they are located at the bottom of the kitchen cabinet under the flip out countertop. We have a small light there so that is a convenient place to add a 12v items. I plan to add one there. Check for flush mount or if it needs a hole to set into the cabinet - if taking one that needs to set into the cabinet and make sure it will clears whatever else is in there and you won't drill into anything unwanted while installing it.
But from Larry's story a few months ago about having LP get into their overcab bed (from an outside propane leak, with windows and vents open, because of drafts carrying the LP gas up there), I also want to add one where our heads rest in the back lounge bed area. No easy access there but it is very do-able (pull off a light, down a corner of the rig, and then inside under the ledge. This is further down on the todo list.
Just so no ‘alarm’ is in play here... CO2 is carbon dioxide, CO is carbon monoxide.
Did you check the switch? :D
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iXaw70X7wb4
Ha! Exactly.
Lisa
Lisa, water. Beside the fresh water inlet opening is a small opening (pen tip size) with a plastic thing stuck in it (like a thick wire with a bump on the end - ok I will dig up a picture cause the sounds crazy to me).
Make sure that tiny opening is opened up - it lets air out so the water can go in.
One day I thought ok, that whatever-it-is should be covered and the water struggled to go in like you described. Lesson learned.
Ah! Thank you ! That makes total sense. I kept thinking that it was spitting back at me because of a vacuum effect, but couldn't figure out what I could do but open the drain, which of course would have been self-defeating. I will look for that little opening.
Lisa
Lisa, we have a 89TK and there is no propane alarm in it. I don't think they put it in back then. This is in our list of things to add (towards the top).
There was no CO2 monitor when we got it, we added a portable battery one right away that we just rest on the floor for now. And we replaced the old fire/smoke detector (battery run on the ceiling. I didn't think of a LP monitor despite people talking about it until a lightbulb went off a couple of months ago (sometimes that forest of upgrading an older LD is so think individual trees don't stick out well).
And thanks for this. I've looked all along the walls, kitchen area, etc, and found nothing. I got a battery operated CO detector the other day that I have sitting on the kitchen counter. I want to put it on the floor since that's where the CO would gather. I have to get a new smoke detector and a propane detector. Where am i going to put all this stuff?? I only have 22' but 125 lbs of dog, 9 lbs of cat, office equipment and me! I need to put some food and clothes for me somewhere!!
Lisa
Lisa and Jane. CO is a result of incomplete combustion, CO2 is a completed combustion result of either cooking, space heater, or water heater operation. Humans exhale CO2. It isn't deadly, but doesn't contain Oxygen either. Some catalyst heaters will shut off with a low Oxygen situation, hopefully before humans suffocate.
If there is inadequate Oxygen, (flame is mishapen, or the mixing area is obstructed) , you will get Carbon monoxide, CO. Usually it is hot, a result of a flame, so it is lighter than air. (think hot air baloon) the best location is high on an inside wall, close to the smoke alarm, but far enough to tell them apart. Since both can be battery driven, with the same requirements for placement, they are often combined. They have distinctively different sounds to tell them apart. Kidde Night Hawk Combination Smoke/CO Alarm w/Voice/Alarm Warning - Walmart.com (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Kidde-Night-Hawk-Combination-Smoke-CO-Alarm-w-Voice-Alarm-Warning/10910787?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227010064381&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=40872040232&wl4=pla-78764497952&wl5=9031352&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=10910787&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyoHlBRCNARIsAFjKJ6CuqLKaQkG81tLVY9YJ-7yKCdjYaQ10WWKtXZU4Qo6A1h3ARtfNT5UaAoS3EALw_wcB)
Liquid Propane Gas is heavier than air, not by much, but enough to warrant having this alarm located near the floor. They take from 46 ma. to 76 ma. to run, some even over 100 ma. (.046 amps, .076 amps or .1 amps). Not a lot of current, but they are constantly on, so they will eventually drain a 12vdc battery. The .076 amps x 12 volts x 24 hours, uses 21 watt hours per day. (The equivalent ceiling light (incandescent) uses that much power in one hour). With Solar that problem is eliminated.
That is too much power drain to have an LP detector run on it's own battery, so they run on your house battery. Liability is such that manufacturers don't put in on/off switches. You can turn off the whole coach, or add a switch to turn it off when you aren't camping. If you forget to turn it on, well, that's your problem. An LPG detector, since it is wired into a large battery, can be combined with a CO detector, so those devices are available, but it is best to sense CO higher up. This one drops to a 10ma. drain if your battery voltage is low (they don't say if it still works at that low power) RV LP Gas Protector – bigdaddysparts (https://bigdaddysparts.com/products/atwood-lp-gas-detector-rv-12v-white-36719-replaces-36720?variant=16389692260416&gclid=Cj0KCQjwyoHlBRCNARIsAFjKJ6CgFSlUcT2w0qgpJoNrzHxf3qBvwSRBwxi9DYJedF4W2Z_cSbtiFG8aAo1bEALw_wcB)
edited to replace suggested CO/smoke alarm with one that would operate just on battery. RonB
Jane and Scott, my ‘85 TK had a propane detector but, since I was not the original owner, I can’t be sure it was a factory install.
This is the propane detector Factory has used for years.
Amazon.com: Safe-T-Alert 30-442 12V Propane Alarm Flush Mount Black: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6EWDU0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
For filling the water tank, try using a flexible filler wand, made for this purpose.
Amazon.com: Camco Water Tank Filler with Shutoff Valve- Quickly and Efficient... (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Shutoff-Efficiently-Eliminates-Backflow/dp/B0006IX850?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B0006IX850)
For an even easier fill, plumb the water drain pipe with a valve and quick disconnect, so it can be filled from the bottom.
Water tank filler- bottom fill. | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157602095133804/)
Make sure the fresh water tank's vent screen, located inside the fresh water fill door, is clean. A plugged screen will result in spitting of water out of the fill hole.
Larry
This is the propane detector Factory has used for years.
Amazon.com: Safe-T-Alert 30-442 12V Propane Alarm Flush Mount Black: Automotive (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F6EWDU0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Larry
Just to be sure- is there any place in particular I should be looking for the propane detector? Along the kitchen baseboard there is the fuse panel box and a large furnace vent. Further towards the back there is another furnace vent. IN the entry on the side of the kitchen sink cabinet there is a built in alcove for a tiny fire extinguisher (in a size I have been unable to find). If there is/was a propane alarm, where might it be that I might not see?
Lisa G
Lisa,
On our RB, the propane detector is mounted several inches above the floor on the isle side of the rearward dinette seat. I believe it is there due to its proximity to the stove etc. but not so close as to get false readings or interfere with all the other electronics at the base of the kitchen cabinets.
Kent
Hi Lisa, I guess it's possible yours didn't come with one. Jane mentioned that hers was just below her night light. That's where mine is in a TK. The water pump is right there below the three kitchen drawers. In your multi-plan, I wouldn't know where it is. Maybe someone who has/had a multi-plan could give you a better idea where to put one. RonB
Lisa, with regards to the Propane detector. My 1987 MP does not have one nor did it ever originally as far as I know (I am forth owner).
JohnF 2003 T/K and 1987MP w/Roof Sleeper
Has anyone tried this propane detector, or similar?
Natural Gas Detector-Ourjob Household LPG/Coal Gas Combustible Gas Leak... (https://www.amazon.com/Detector-Ourjob-Household-Combustible-Detector-Detectors/dp/B07DQVCMQW)
I get that it needs electricity, but seem like so long as you can plug in when you stop where there are hook ups, or maybe even just use the generator long enough to check for leaks, it would be useful.
Thoughts?
"...so long as you can plug in when you stop where there are hook ups, or maybe even just use the generator..."
No need for shore power or generator so far as I can see... says powered by USB. That means you can plug it into a DC outlet and run (charge) it from your coach batteries. 8)
Thanks all for catching the CO2 vs CO error I did, I guess I should not do late night posts :D . I fixed it in my original post.