I've recently joined this forum, do not yet own an RV, and I'm trying to do my due diligence before buying. I am intrigued by the Lazy Daze, the quality that most people rave about, and to be honest, I love that retro look! My questions center around what problems to look for in a used LD coach. I know that I have read several post about roof problems, water damage, rot, etc. Is this a common occurrence or mainly with not well cared for coaches? Any other problems to look for? Any and all help will be appreciated. I live on the East coast, so that is a problem to start with since most LD'S are in the west.
Thanks in advance
Milosdad
I've recently joined this forum, do not yet own an RV, and I'm trying to do my due diligence before buying. I am intrigued by the Lazy Daze, the quality that most people rave about, and to be honest, I love that retro look! My questions center around what problems to look for in a used LD coach. I know that I have read several post about roof problems, water damage, rot, etc. Is this a common occurrence or mainly with not well cared for coaches? Any other problems to look for? Any and all help will be appreciated. I live on the East coast, so that is a problem to start with since most LD'S are in the west.
Thanks in advance
Milosdad
Welcome to the LDOG, Dad. This older thread might be of use to you: Some Advice If Your First RV Is A Used Lazy Daze (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=15462.msg75848#msg75848)
Chris
My questions center around what problems to look for in a used LD coach. I know that I have read several post about roof problems, water damage, rot, etc. Is this a common occurrence or mainly with not well cared for coaches?
First, we'd like to welcome you to the LDO Forum and wish you the best in your search. Secondly, it would be helpful if you could narrow down your definition of "used" since that encompasses somewhere around 53 of years of a vast array of LD's.
Nevertheless, your assumption about some of the causes of "roof problems, water damage, rot, etc." is spot on IMO. On the other hand, there are a good number of current Forum Members with 15 - 20 year old Rigs and older that are going strong and free of water related issues.
Best of luck and once again, welcome to this Neighbor.
I have a 2008 26.5ft rear bath unit with only 19000 miles that I will be putting on the market soon. Mostly in covered storage during its life. Excellent condition. Located in AL. Let me know if you are interested.
Sent from Mail (https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986) for Windows 10
Thanks to all for the helpful information. The older thread from Don McGlothlen was very helpful, and complete. As for my definition of used, that's probably kind of flexible. I've seen some for sale as far back as the early 90's that looked good in photos, but I would probably not want to go further back than the early 2000's. I would also prefer to keep the price under $40k, but that's just my number and not set in stone. That could definitely go up for the right coach. I would prefer to get something with a lot of useful years left as I'm really hoping that my wife and I have a lot of travelling years left!
We will be leaving on the 27th , road trip to southern AZ for a short visit. I'm hoping to perhaps find one to look at in the Tucson area while we are out there. I know that dealers here have new Thor, Coachman, etc for not much more, but I really don't want to go that route.
Good day to All
Milosdad
We will be leaving on the 27th , road trip to southern AZ for a short visit. I'm hoping to perhaps find one to look at in the Tucson area while we are out there.
You might want to give a rough idea of your route...there may be LD owners along the way that would be willing to let you look at their rigs.
"I know that dealers here have new Thor, Coachman, etc for not much more, but I really don't want to go that route."
Your statement above certainly does not include Lazy Daze motorhomes. Lazy Daze has no dealers, they sell factory direct only. What you might find on a dealers lot would be a pre-owned LD (think used). ::)
My wife and I are the happy owners of a 2003 Mid Bath. Odometer just turned 124,000 miles and we have spent 680 nights in Daizy while camping in 47 of the lower 48 states. Plan on adding Minnesota this summer.
We love our LD and like most everyone else on this website feel it is the best built Class C made. That said, it is not perfect.
Prior to the internet, I'm guessing that the vast majority of LDs were sold to folks who live in and camp mostly in California, Arizona and New Mexico. As I believe it was the Beach Boys said, "It doesn't rain in southern California". Well it rains a lot back here in Virginia. Be sure to regularly reseal all of your seams! The flexing the coach goes through can loosen the caulking the factory uses quickly. Like many in our club (Northeast Lazy Daze Caravan Club) I had to shell out several thousand dollars to have wood rot repairs. My bad for not checking out the seals earlier. I now spend a little to have it done by professionals every other year.
That said, I will still recommend an LD to anyone. Just make sure you have someone thoroughly check for leak damage before purchasing.
"I now spend a little to have it done by professionals every other year."
If the job is done correctly it should not be necessary to do it that often! A good roof seal should last up to ten (10) years. ;)
Actually, the sealing is being done on the rear end cap. That's where most of the problem has been in the past. Also where my rear window was replaced. Seems like anytime you have a window taken out (replaced) if not done by the factory it's seldom done correctly.
We will be travelling on I-81 through Virginia, and pick up I-40 in Tennessee. I-40 all the way to Tucumcari NM, then south Las Cruces to pick up I-10 to Tucson ( actually Green Valley). I prefer to go through Kentucky, the Blue grass Parkway and Western Kentucky Parkway, across the Mississippi to Sikeston for a Lamberts Café stop. Then US 60 west through the Mark Twain National Forest to Springfield, and on to Oklahoma where I pick up 40 again. The Parkway roads in Kentucky, and 60 west in Missouri are really fine roads, and little traffic ( compared to I-40) and almost no truck traffic. But, my wife's Father lives in Rock Island Tn, so that route wins out. And on the return trip we must stop at Dyess AFB in Abilene, to visit daughter and family.
Thanks for the reminder, but I am aware that you do not buy new LD's at the local RV store. That is why I mentioned the brands that I did, that most say have a lot of problems from the start.
Milosdad
I know you didn't ask but new buyers and want to be's come up to look at our LD all the time. I have a very small speech I gave --- one of the most important if not the most important part of an RV is weight limits. We as humans can adjust to just about any floor arrangement. But we can't change the weight limits. That is set in stone the day the truck manufacturer put the vehicle together. There are two ways a RV manufacturer can meet the weight limits. Built small and strong or large and weak.
OK they can overbuilt ie over weight out the door also.
I'm saying all that to say in the LD world the main overweight issues are with folks that tow. Even if you plan to tow yourself try to get an LD that has never towed.
If I had to do it over again, I’d still buy our LD despite the massive amount of rot we found and had to repair.
It seems any class C is going to experience leaking, and my guess is the issue is typically ignored. Many modern RV’s are being built with aluminum and more “water resistant” fiberglass sidewalls but despite this the overall quality of these units leaves a lot to be desired.
With a lazy daze, since the final skin is aluminum, most any water damage can be repaired. This is not the case with fiberglass delamination. That being said, removing the outer skin is no easy task.
I think a lazy daze has much less potential to leak than many RV’s...but I also suspect this assumption leads to many unchecked issues regarding water damage.
Hi Milosdad and welcome to the forum.
You may have spotted this on the forum or maybe not, but the North East LD club is having a get together this Spring in West Virginia near Cumberland Maryland. The dates are May 15 to May 19. Prospective LD owners are welcome to come and check out our rigs and a couple different floor plans. This is a great opportunity to speak to owners, see LDs, and check out the group.
Additionally, the Mothership is only about 7-8 hours from Tucson. If you have the time, it could be worth it to you to stop by and speak to Todd. By the way, if our 27 mid-bath is still there (needed repairs), you have our permission to look through it.
Bob
I'm saying all that to say in the LD world the main overweight issues are with folks that tow.
I'd be grateful for the source of this observation. And thanks in advance.
"I'm saying all that to say in the LD world the main overweight issues are with folks that tow."
I'm not sure where you're coming from with that statement!
I have towed or driven solo for the last fifteen years (2004 30'IB) and have never been overweight or had any issue with towing. I have Henderson's Line Up (Grants Pass) weigh all four points and do a road test to boot. Am I doing something wrong? ::)
I really appreciate all of the helpful response. I see almost all of the LD coaches for sale are in California, or somewhere else on the west coast. So I will need to be ready, cash in hand, to fly to wherever the coach is. I love to travel, but hate to fly. It's like boarding a very rude cattle car! That being said, I need to know how to check for flaws, roof, or whatever is common myself. I really do not know any inspectors out west, and if they are anything like home inspectors here in Delaware, I really would be hesitant to trust their judgement. I'm also concerned that I could make a long distance deal, fly to the coach, and find out that someone offered more money, and I'm out not only the coach, but the plane ticket. Any input from other successful long distance buyers?
Thanks
Milosdad
Milosdad,
I don’t know much about carrying cash for large purchases but I have seen videos about mishaps in doing so.
I prefer to be cautious in carrying too much cash. I also prefer not to be an alarmist. So it’s with a “grain of salt” that I offer the following. Here’s a CNN news report from a few years ago. https://youtu.be/mevVt5sHDNA
Hope all goes well with any LD purchase you make.
Kent
Thank you. I am aware of this robbery by local/state/ agencies. I think that I would have to take a cashiers check.
Milosdad
Here is a post I made on the “checklist” that I believe Joan originally posted. It may be helpful regardless of the year and model you inspect.
Used Lazy Daze purchase checklist 1999 Lazy Daze 23.5' TK
• Ask owner to turn on refrigerator (on LP gas) the day before inspection. There should be propane to test appliances.
• Wear clothes suitable for crawling under rig. Bring gloves, headlamp, small night light to test AC plugs (or a polarity checker).
Have a tarp available for crawling under coach.
Coach
• Does the rig sit level on level ground? No listing or leaning? Remember that it won't be perfectly level unless fully loaded, but severe listing should be checked out further.
• Make sure ladder is stable. Climb up on the roof and inspect the seams and roof penetrations. The sealant cracks naturally as it dries, but look for anyplace where it has cracked through or pieces are missing. If you find any significant gaps, check the inside ceiling carefully for any soft spots. Check to see if the previous owner tried to seal a leak using some different type of caulking.
• Check roof for bubbles or very small whitish spots. This may indicate electrolysis, a condition caused by dampness inside the coach wall. Electrolysis erodes the aluminum panel until small holes are worn through.
• Check solar panel. Solar panels could have cracked glass from rocks, hail, pinecones etc. Look for moisture inside the panels, corrosion inside on the metal collectors.
• Check air conditioner cover, TV antenna, all plumbing vents, refrigerator vent, roof vents. They should all be intact. Skylights? Screens? • Pay attention to leading and trailing edges of roof as that's where damage from low hanging trees, etc. is most likely.
• Sight down the sides of rig and look for uneven surfaces. LD's aluminum siding has a rippling appearance - that's normal. Large bulges are abnormal.
• Also inspect the outside paneling for electrolysis while checking for scratches, dings, signs of impact and paint fading/damage. Are there any stains, rust spots or areas of corrosion? Check that the Phillips screws are snug on the outside trim pieces.
• Check end caps for gaps. The end cap trim piece in the rear corners at eye level will often look bad. It's mostly cosmetic.
• Check wheel wells to see signs of tire blow-out damage. While here, check & make note of tire pressures. Check condition of sidewalls and tread. Look for abnormal or uneven wear on the tires.
(I already know age of tires) R. front ____ L. front ____ R. rear/outside ____ R. rear/inside ____ L. rear/outside ____ L. rear/inside ____
• Look at the rubber seals on the windows and the coach entry door.
Look for cracking or separation from glass. Check caulking. Look for cracking or gaps. Have the windows been caulked or re-sealed? This may indicate that they had leaks in the past, or it may be appropriate preventive maintenance. Check that the window weep hole covers are in place. Missing covers let dirt accumulate and plug up the hole.
• Generator - check for obvious signs of oil leaks or other external damage. Run the generator (later).
• Awning - make sure it deploys. Check for tears or mildew.
• Step (electric or manual) - make sure it works.
• Storage compartments. Make sure all the locks function and latches are in place.
• Check the battery compartment for acid corrosion.
• INTERIOR: Check for water damage everywhere. Inspect closely for dry rot from leaking seams, roof penetrations, or windows. Look very carefully wherever water could get in and collect. Check around all windows, vents, and hatches. Look *everywhere* for discoloration or dampness in the interior paneling. Look for rust spots on drape hooks, which could indicate a high level of moisture by the window. Look at the ceiling for discoloration or stains.
Look closely at the paneling below each window, all the way to the floor. Running a hand over the paneling may be the only way to find the soft spots. The affected areas would be soft and/or brittle.
While you're checking the interior, be alert for unpleasant smells.
Mildew and mold are good signs of water penetration.
• Climb in cabover bed. Feel under mattress for any damp or soft areas. Check for any signs of leaks around windows and escape hatch.
Make sure hatch opens & closes tightly.
• Check the bathroom floor around the shower and toilet for soft spots. Check vinyl for peeling or bubbles.
• Check all overhead cabinets for leaks from the ceiling.
• Check lower cabinets for signs of damp or mold.
• Look for patched carpet, new floor coverings, or an uneven floor.
These may indicate water damage. Listen for creaking that may indicate the sub-floor is damaged. If it's very cold, some creaking may be normal.
• Open and close every window. Make sure that the cranks all work, and that windows close properly and seal. Do they slide freely? (they may not slide like a puck on ice, but should not be severely stuck) Are the window locks working? Are the screens in place? Check all blinds.
• Open vents. Turn on fans.
• Pull out all drawers and open all cabinets. All should operate smoothly, and have no unpleasant odors. Make sure all handles, pulls and hinges are present. Check that the dinette or couch that converts to a bed can still do so. Use a flashlight to check for discolorations or stains.
• Lift up and inspect all cushions, including the cab-over bed.
Broken frames, worn or stained fabrics, or sagging cushions will be expensive to replace.
• Turn on an inside faucet and then turn on the water pump. Pump should prime immediately and water should flow. If water heater tank isn't full, let pump fill it by leaving hot water faucet open. Once you have water flowing from both hot and cold faucets, turn off faucets. Pump should shut off automatically. Wait a minute or two... pump should not cycle again. If it does, suspect leak in plumbing system.
• Check tank level panel. Fresh water should be full and both waste tanks empty.
• First, make sure that water heater is not bypassed with a water heater bypass kit (used to bypass water heater for winterization.. if you're not sure, ask.) and is full of water. Light water heater.
• While waiting for water heater, test cold water in kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower & the toilet. Make sure all the water drains quickly and easily. Check tank level panel again.
• Back to water heater. Check for: * Pilot light (if so equipped) stays lit.
* If Direct Spark ignition, make sure control switch works.
* Main burner works.
* leaks (especially around drain plug and pressure release valve) * If electric equipped, check for operation.
* Let it heat up and check for shutoff if possible.
• Turn on the furnace and set thermostat above current temperature.
It may take a while to light.
• Go outside and check flames for the water heater, furnace & fridge.
Check that the flames are noisy and robust. A proper mix will burn loudly with a blue flame, not lazy with a yellow flame. It can be adjusted by loosening the small Phillips screw and sliding the air adjust collar. Usually that can be left alone unless you are over about 6000' and are having a soot problem.
• Make sure hot air is coming out of all heater vents. There are two forced air vents: one facing the bathroom and one right around the corner from it, facing the cab. They are round brown vents about 5" in diameter, so they're easily recognizable. One duct goes right underneath the drawer under the refrigerator. Pull out the drawer, pull at the stop forcefully. You can see the hose and it should be OK.
Check that it isn't collapsed either.
• Water heater should be ready now. Check hot water in both sinks & the shower. Fill both the black and gray tanks and drive over some bumps (later). This makes sure the tanks don't leak, and that the supports holding them up are in good shape.
• Turn on generator and let it run for 15-30 minutes. Make sure it doesn't stall or stutter.
• Check all interior and exterior lights • Light all range burners. Light oven pilot light and turn oven on.
• Test microwave • Check that roof A/C is blowing cold air, then turn it off.
• Turn off generator. It should stop quickly and not run on for another minute.
• Check that refrigerator is cold (best if you have wireless thermometer to check temp-38F frige/0-5F freezer). If the fridge has been running on AC, turn switch to LP and listen for flame to light.
Go outside and check fridge access door. The flame should stay on.
• Check solar controller. Hopefully you'll see a black panel about 5" x 7" with an LCD panel and some buttons. About all you can do is look to see that at least a few amps are coming down from the roof. even with a small panel you should see at least 3 or 4 amps at noon on a clear day. * The Solar controller should show the current voltage of your batteries, and a switch to show the charging current. Watch the voltage increase when you plug in the shoreline. The fluorescents won't change brightness, they have internal voltage regulators.
• Activate levelers. Make sure they all deploy. Leave them deployed while you inspect underneath the rig.
• Look underneath at the bottom of the rig at the exposed wood frame areas for dry rot, particularly around the entrance step and behind the rear wheels. You should look for collision damage, things that have come loose, or after-market items that weren't installed well. Check the gas hose to the generator for cracks. Check for signs of water, oil or fluid leaks.
• Look at all axles and suspension components. Are there any bent or broken parts? Major rust? Dangling wires? Missing shock absorbers?
• Retract levelers.
• Plug the shore power cord in and make sure it works. Check all AC outlets inside with night light (better w/polarity checker).
• Raise, rotate, lower TV antenna and test for function • Test any Smoke, Propane and/or CO detectors
• Dump valves. Check for leaks. Dump black tank, then grey tank.
Make sure everything works easily.
Engine and drivetrain
• Start the engine. Exhaust blue smoke = burning oil, white smoke = burning coolant, black smoke = running rich. Listen for exhaust leaks (ticking or obvious exhaust gas escaping). This will all have been checked by mechanic, but do this anyway to hear how engine sounds. Go somewhere flat.
• Make sure hood release works.
• Check all the fluids under the hood to see if if they smell burned or extra foul, or look really dirty. Again, just double check all fluids.
• Does hood close securely?
• Drive the coach down the road and find out if it accelerates smoothly, pulls, vibrates, etc. Make sure the in-dash A/C and heat, radio, CB and other electric equipment work properly.
Go over some bumps to jog the water in the tanks.
• Evaluate the condition of the cab. Are the seats worn, seat cushions squashed, dashboard cover cracked? Are all seatbelts in place?
• Crawl under coach again and check for water tank leaks. Check that the supports holding both tanks up are in good shape. Check levelers - they should still be fully retracted.
• See how well engine restarts after about an hour sitting.”
That's kinda what I was looking for. Thank you very much!
Kent. That list is an excellent tool. Is it saved somewhere on this site. If not, it should be.
Dale from Downey
Dale, I think that this is the comprehensive RV inspection checklist that Kent refers to; I did post the link two or three times in the past. ;)
RV Inspection Checklist (http://changingears.com/rv-checklist-inspection.shtml)
"I'm saying all that to say in the LD world the main overweight issues are with folks that tow."
I'm not sure where you're coming from with that statement!
I have towed or driven solo for the last fifteen years (2004 30'IB) and have never been overweight or had any issue with towing. I have Henderson's Line Up (Grants Pass) weigh all four points and do a road test to boot. Am I doing something wrong? ::)
My point it when comparing two equal LD's one pulling a tow is harder on the vehicle then not towing. The drivetrain is a very important part. Weight is what the drivetrain is overcoming as it works. The harder the work the more damage is done.
"Weight is what the drivetrain is overcoming as it works."
Since the weight of the towed is supported by it's own wheels the only work necessitated by the RV is to move the dinghy's rolling resistance which is relatively slight. I'll not be holding my breath while expecting a breakdown. ;)
Kent. That list is an excellent tool. Is it saved somewhere on this site. If not, it should be.
Dale from Downey
It is pinned Used Lazy Dazes Inspection Checklists, Tips, Recommendations, Discussions (http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29779.0) in the Lazy Daze Gen Info and Discussions Forum.
Chris
I would add to the list above:
When checking toilet check it holds water (flush, let fill, then check 5/10 min later water level didn’t drop).
I think deploying the awning was in the list Kent posted but also check it is securely attached to the rig.
Gather information on all appliance - brand and model and if it has one the manufacture date. Things can work but at some point they will fail and you want to be prepared to replace with new appliances (working now does not mean working in a year). This includes refrigerator (obtain cubic foot size at same time), oven/range, furnace, any alternative heat such an added catalytic heater or heat strip, water heater, water pump (double checks for leaks under this), air conditioner / evaporative cooler, any fantastic fans, and the power center including the charger / converter / inverter (if there is an inverter) and battery monitor (check the history like depth of last charge). Know beforehand about smart battery chargers (vs the dumb ones) and the good battery monitors that tell % used (only a few out there and not in most rigs. Also gather generator information.
Ask about any upgrades or modifications that were made. Ask to see the records - are there receipts for all work done plus original purchase? Including things like oil changes and regular service. Are manuals for everything? Check their coach batteries (what kind, size, age, etc.) and ask how they maintain their batteries.
Check the condition of the gaskets (glazing seals) around the windows - inside and out. Ask what they did to ensure their LD stayed new leak free. Check the sealand used between the window frames and the rig, if any was put between the window gasket/glazing bead and the window, between the end cap and rig, where there are seams around the rig and on the roof, and around any protrusion through the walls/roof (think vents, porch and other lights, things attached to the roof (air conditioner, solar attachments, vents/fans, etc.). And based on my latest experience with an older used LD make sure none of those sealants are silicon (huge effort to replace that sealant when that needs to be done).
Likely a used LD is going to have some issues including a well cared for one that is getting older. Having your information gathered helps you pay an appropriate price and helps you understand what work you need to do on the rig (now and in the future).
And you are going to miss some things. It you caught most of it you did well.
Jane
I really appreciate all of the helpful response. I see almost all of the LD coaches for sale are in California, or somewhere else on the west coast. So I will need to be ready, cash in hand, to fly to wherever the coach is. I love to travel, but hate to fly. It's like boarding a very rude cattle car! That being said, I need to know how to check for flaws, roof, or whatever is common myself. I really do not know any inspectors out west, and if they are anything like home inspectors here in Delaware, I really would be hesitant to trust their judgement. I'm also concerned that I could make a long distance deal, fly to the coach, and find out that someone offered more money, and I'm out not only the coach, but the plane ticket. Any input from other successful long distance buyers?
Thanks
Milosdad
Welcome, welcome!
As with my experience, you are getting the best possible input from a variety of knowledgeable sources. Here's my 2 cents.
I'm in north Missouri, so only half as far away from SoCal as you are, but still quite an undertaking to make such a decision sight unseen off the internet. The generous input from so many on this site helped prime the pump for me to take the leap.
When the floorplan that I'd been craving came up on the old Yahoo site, I asked if someone might be available to put eyeballs on the rig to assess if it was even worth the trip from Missouri; I received a very gracious offer from a Forum member who lived nearby (that being a relative term, given SoCal driving compared to Missouri :P ). He shared his assessment of the rig's condition & the asking price; I decided to make the trip in mid-December 2013, & made an appointment with Vince at the Mothership for an inspection.
I, too, hate being crammed in an aluminum cigar tube, with other miserable souls, & flung across the sky... As it turned out for me, Amtrak had a much better option (Joan's YMMV mantra is applicable)--friends took me (& everything but the kitchen sink) to Kansas City on a Friday evening, where I checked two huge suitcases (that were not weighed) & was allowed two additional carry-ons that were not measured for dimensions as the airlines do, plus no checking for liquids/etc., so the yogurt & other food I took for two days wasn't an issue; I wasn't "dinged" for the travel pillow/sleeping bag I rigged to the rollerbag; & the large backpack with laptop/etc. counted as my "purse". There was WiFi, I could move around easily, the scenery was wonderful, seats/legroom were excellent, though it did fill up from Albuquerque on to where I got off at Fullerton. On Sunday the previous owners picked me up in Fullerton, & I spent the night in the rig in their driveway reading manuals/etc. Monday they took me & the rig to the Mothership (whatever the distance is from Whittier to Montclair) for the appointment with Vince (he recommended replacing the showerdome with the new style, which I did, & despite the standard well-reported grumblings about Eternabond, he said she was in great shape). The previous owner went over the various systems with me, had scoped out a park/school parking lot to give me driving lessons, & helped me plan an escape route....I called my insurance company to activate the new policy before I left Wednesday, the CA plates took me home, & the seller gave me a midmorning-after-traffic-eased-some escort from their place in Whittier to I-10 which then got me to I-15 & I was on my way. :)
The only hiccup was on the money end on Tuesday. I'd heard my dad talk of writing checks to buy cattle in Texas, & on various trips, so I didn't think about getting a cashier's check...problem was that the California bank wanted to hold my check for several days--I had a commitment at home that was already squeezed on the calendar the next week & there was a big winter storm building in the NW & aimed at the midwest...I needed to get out of Dodge on schedule. The two-hour time difference meant it was after bank closing in Missouri; fortunately, I'd tossed a local phone book in the who-knows-if-I-need-it-but-just-in-case stash of stuff, so I called the president of the bank at home; he called the office/they called me at the CA bank/confirmed the funds to that bank manager & then wired the transfer to the CA bank. We got everything signed & sealed, and all sighed with relief.
I didn't think to ask some of your questions...I'll certainly think the finances out in advance should I do anything like this again. The sellers included linens/paper & plastic ware/etc., so I didn't need to take as much in the big suitcases as I did. Time of year made it a bit dicey for me as a newbie; flying ahead of the weather from Denver across Kansas was anxiety-provoking, but I got into my driveway as the ice storm hit. I know this is wordy--I do tend to ramble ::) , but hope this helps you think of things that matter to you as you navigate this process. Most important--have fun learning what's important to you.
Best wishes--
Lynne
Welcome, welcome!
As with my experience, you are getting the best possible input from a variety of knowledgeable sources. Here's my 2 cents.
I'm in north Missouri, so only half as far away from SoCal as you are, but still quite an undertaking to make such a decision sight unseen off the internet. The generous input from so many on this site helped prime the pump for me to take the leap.
When the floorplan that I'd been craving came up on the old Yahoo site, I asked if someone might be available to put eyeballs on the rig to assess if it was even worth the trip from Missouri; I received a very gracious offer from a Forum member who lived nearby (that being a relative term, given SoCal driving compared to Missouri :P ). He shared his assessment of the rig's condition & the asking price; I decided to make the trip in mid-December 2013, & made an appointment with Vince at the Mothership for an inspection.
I, too, hate being crammed in an aluminum cigar tube, with other miserable souls, & flung across the sky... As it turned out for me, Amtrak had a much better option (Joan's YMMV mantra is applicable)--friends took me (& everything but the kitchen sink) to Kansas City on a Friday evening, where I checked two huge suitcases (that were not weighed) & was allowed two additional carry-ons that were not measured for dimensions as the airlines do, plus no checking for liquids/etc., so the yogurt & other food I took for two days wasn't an issue; I wasn't "dinged" for the travel pillow/sleeping bag I rigged to the rollerbag; & the large backpack with laptop/etc. counted as my "purse". There was WiFi, I could move around easily, the scenery was wonderful, seats/legroom were excellent, though it did fill up from Albuquerque on to where I got off at Fullerton. On Sunday the previous owners picked me up in Fullerton, & I spent the night in the rig in their driveway reading manuals/etc. Monday they took me & the rig to the Mothership (whatever the distance is from Whittier to Montclair) for the appointment with Vince (he recommended replacing the showerdome with the new style, which I did, & despite the standard well-reported grumblings about Eternabond, he said she was in great shape). The previous owner went over the various systems with me, had scoped out a park/school parking lot to give me driving lessons, & helped me plan an escape route....I called my insurance company to activate the new policy before I left Wednesday, the CA plates took me home, & the seller gave me a midmorning-after-traffic-eased-some escort from their place in Whittier to I-10 which then got me to I-15 & I was on my way. :)
The only hiccup was on the money end on Tuesday. I'd heard my dad talk of writing checks to buy cattle in Texas, & on various trips, so I didn't think about getting a cashier's check...problem was that the California bank wanted to hold my check for several days--I had a commitment at home that was already squeezed on the calendar the next week & there was a big winter storm building in the NW & aimed at the midwest...I needed to get out of Dodge on schedule. The two-hour time difference meant it was after bank closing in Missouri; fortunately, I'd tossed a local phone book in the who-knows-if-I-need-it-but-just-in-case stash of stuff, so I called the president of the bank at home; he called the office/they called me at the CA bank/confirmed the funds to that bank manager & then wired the transfer to the CA bank. We got everything signed & sealed, and all sighed with relief.
I didn't think to ask some of your questions...I'll certainly think the finances out in advance should I do anything like this again. The sellers included linens/paper & plastic ware/etc., so I didn't need to take as much in the big suitcases as I did. Time of year made it a bit dicey for me as a newbie; flying ahead of the weather from Denver across Kansas was anxiety-provoking, but I got into my driveway as the ice storm hit. I know this is wordy--I do tend to ramble ::) , but hope this helps you think of things that matter to you as you navigate this process. Most important--have fun learning what's important to you.
Best wishes--
Lynne
" I called the president of the bank at home"The glories of small town living. 🙂Chris
My point it when comparing two equal LD's one pulling a tow is harder on the vehicle then not towing. The drivetrain is a very important part. Weight is what the drivetrain is overcoming as it works. The harder the work the more damage is done.
In the E450s, the transmission is what gets stressed when towing. As long as the cooling system is in good shape, the V10 will do whatever is asked, within reason, for many miles.
Excluding the blown spark plug problems that 2003 and older E450's suffer from, the V10 regularly runs 200,000+ miles, without major, work in commercial applications, such as airport shuttle buses.
To protect the transmission, when towing heavy vehicles, upgrading to a larger transmission cooler is recommend as well as using a transmission temperature gauge to monitor it's temps.
Larger transmission cooler E450 | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157648794273051/)
Several LDs that I know of have pulled 4000+lb Jeeps for 140,000 miles, without failures.
Larry
Milosdad,
if you haven't done so yet, check out the 'helpful links' section on the home page.
There is a wealth of information there, including changes thru the years so you have a better idea of what year LD started with whatever engines, transmissions etc that interest you.
Colddog said to be wary of weight and Lazybones said he's never overweight - that's because he keeps an eye on it.
I have a 31 Island bed that starts out heavy and I always have to watch it.
About the treatment of airline passengers - they're also known as 'self-loading cargo'
Welcome aboard.
Joel