Perhaps I should write a pamphlet for all those starry eyed hopefuls looking to buy a "vintage" LD that really goes into all the things that really can and do go wrong. Yes, I was warned, and no, I didn't listen.
Just picked up my LD from the shop that replaced the alternator, which luckily still had 3 days on the warranty. Admittedly, that was not the fault of the LD. Now it's running again. I drove it home from the shop (about 3 miles) and there was NO propane smell this time. That's a plus.
Unfortunately, despite new alternator and battery now charging again, and putting gas in the tank because I knew it was very, very low, the gas gauge still registered as "full" the entire time. I put in 10 gallons and could have kept going. Once parked, on a slight list to the right, it went down to 3/4 tank. This stuck gauge started after the first tow (it had less than a 1/4 tank when it was towed and nobody added gas).
New issue - speedometer has stopped working! It worked last time I drove it, right before it was towed. So how did this happen?
I am taking it to an RV place on Monday to have the propane issue checked out, the solar panel/charging looked at, and various other stuff. The shop that replaced the alternator said that the various cables were old and worn and did not make a great connection. They did not feel well versed in RVs enough to try and replace them because they said the cables went to the RV portion, too, and it looked like specialty cables were required.
The vehicle is running. It does not smell like propane. I'm finally kind of comfortable driving it. Because of my concussion last year and various other things, I have not even had a chance to really do anything with it. It has had the following work done since I purchased it:
Transmission rebuilt
New alternator (2!)
New tires
Brake work (new rotors, seals , calipers, pads, new front hoses)
Rear shoes adjusted
Idler arm and right side tie rod replaced.
Alignment of front suspension
Rear lights cleaned out and connections fixed
New ladder and hole patched where I backed up and pushed ladder into rear wall
Propane tank regulator replaced
New rear bumper
All told there has been $12000+ work put into this thing since I bought it, though insurance covered $5500 and the seller paid ~$3k for the transmission.
I really want the opportunity to actually use this thing, but I'm wondering if it will ever be able to go more than 10 miles or a month without something going wrong.
I don't need to be reminded that you all told me so. I am well aware. I think if I'd not suffered a head injury last year shortly after buying my LD, things would not feel quite so acute, but I'm where I am now, and wondering if continuing to try and make this thing work is a hopeless endeavor.
Thanks,
Lisa
Lisa, in 15 years when you are sitting around the campfire at one of the GTG, your 'war stories' will be a great topic.
And, some of us will remember back to the first postings.
You are building a history here.....
Hang in there.
See you down the road.
Joel
"This stuck gauge started after the first tow (it had less than a 1/4 tank when it was towed and nobody added gas)."
Lisa
In reading your last post (paraphrased above) I am curious! Do you know if, during that tow, the tow person disconnected the drive shaft?
I would guess that most everyone on this board is aware that the driveshaft MUST be disconnected while towing. Most tow truck drivers should know it as well.
I'm not totally familiar with the reason or need for this precaution but just perhaps it has something to do with your problems. I'm hopeful that wiser folks will chime in here because I'd like to know the answer myself. Larry? :(
"This stuck gauge started after the first tow (it had less than a 1/4 tank when it was towed and nobody added gas)."
Lisa
In reading your last post (paraphrased above) I am curious! Do you know if, during that tow, the tow person disconnected the drive shaft?
I would guess that most everyone on this board is aware that the driveshaft MUST be disconnected while towing. Most tow truck drivers should know it as well.
I don't know, but would I have been able to drive it if it was still disconnected??
Lisa G.
though insurance covered $5500
Was that from backing into the ladder?
"...would I have been able to drive it if it was still disconnected??"
It would seem that you are not visualizing the picture. Any tow truck driver worth his salt would disconnect the drive shaft prior to towing the RV and reconnect it when the destination is reached, as part of the routine. Thereafter you would have been able to drive the rig.
The questions is, if the drive shaft was not disconnected, did it damage anything, i.e. the speedometer system? ::)
Is it time to throw in the towel?
To address the question in your subject line; maybe, maybe not. It really depends on how much time and money you want to spend dealing with this particular motorhome, considering all the other things that seem to be going on in your life right now. Only you can decide that. Best of luck in your decision. :)
Lisa, I understand your dilemma, but you're really the only one who can decide if it's worth continuing to pump time, energy, and cash into this motorhome. You've spent a lot in repairs; that's a good bit of money that you are unlikely to recover if you sell. However, it's a given that the rig is very likely to need more work, probably for additional repairs, replacements, and/or upgrades, and also simply for routine services and maintenance.
Where I might see using this rig for 'local' camping and/or travel, I would be very uneasy traveling any distance; 'waiting for the other shoe to drop' with what appears to be an unreliable vehicle is not a comfortable feeling.
I wish you luck with your decision.
I suggest selling since additional repairs would be more stress you don't need. Maybe you can find something 3-5 years old (not necessarily an LD) at an affordable (?) price. Have it inspected before the purchase. That should give you a more reliable rig that you can enjoy. Frank
Lisa.
The older the rig the more frustrating the experience.
November 2016 won 88 MB on an Ebay bid I should have lost. $5,000. It had been sitting 3 years on a shore power.
Dec 2016 7 new tires, $1200.
Dec 2016 New coach batteries, $250. by me.
Second Child came back home, moved into LD
2017, automatic Transfer switch. $100, by me.
Installed 200 watts Solar by me.
Dec 2017 Second Child moved out.
June 2018, Exhaust leaks, AC leaks, Overdrive install, $6000, by shop.
Overdrive $3000, by me.
August 2018, 3000 miles. Exhaust leaks Warranty. Rear Brakes, radiator, $2500.
Nov 2018, Engine had no go, 5 MPH tops, 100 miles from home, Catalytic Converter. $1200, plus AAA tow home.
Jan 2019 BLISS!, successful trip, propane station cannot connect to Propane tank. I got it connected???
Generator is still Non Operating.
It is a long path.
As others have mentioned, you either buy an older rig for less $ and be prepared to pay mucho $ to repair and replace things, then to maintain it; or pay big $ to purchase newer, also preparing to spend $ to repair, replace things and maintain it. Either way, you pay. As Larry often reminds us, RVing is not an inexpensive hobby.
"It is a long path."
----
A path that ends for an owner when s/he sells the rig, but until then.... ;)
Even if a rig is in good condition when it's bought, maintenance needs are numerous and ongoing, and any 'path' is made a lot more rocky if one is not able (for any number of reasons) to do at least some, if not most or all, of the repairs, replacements, and upgrades to help manage maintenance expenses. Even if one can afford to hire out the work, there is still the problem of locating competent, skilled repair facilities, and the down time/non-use while the rig is in whichever shop(s) is/are needed.
An old(er) rig can be a good buy for someone who has the time, skills, knowledge, and cash to diagnose, repair, and/or replace all of the warts; if a buyer is not one of those people, or s/he buys a rig (any rig) without a thorough, professional inspection and then experiences a never-ending 'wart revelation', disappointment and disillusionment are likely to really dull the shine on one's plans for adventure on the open road. RVs are complex machines, and there is a very long list of things that can - and do - go wrong, even with the best built rigs, and without diligent, timely, and savvy maintenance, it's a sure thing that plenty of stuff will leak, collapse, shred, rust, fall off, blow up, corrode, seize up, or otherwise go south.
A seller, private or a dealer, aware of a rig's issues or not, will not necessarily offer full disclosure of a rig's issues and repair needs. Some sellers are honest, straightforward, and knowledgeable about what they're selling, but some are not; it's the responsibility of the buyer to educate himself/herself about how to assess the quality and condition of the rig objectively.
There are probably quite a few people who have wished for a do-over after a 'regrettable' RV buy; maybe this is part of the learning curve, but it's often an expensive lesson. :( I just hope that the reports of 'buyer's remorse' on this forum resonate with those who are looking for LDs, particularly older models.
As ever, YMMV.
My dear departed Father once told me that when purchasing a used car be ready to spend another $1,000 on it above the purchase price to bring it up to specs.
As RVs are far and away more complicated than an automobile, my Dads rule can seemingly be multiplied by a factor of 10 in a worse case scenario.
There is obviously a stage at which repairs to a used RV of any ilk will reach the “all done” point. Hopefully the bank or spirit is not broken at that point.
We purchased new “because”. That’s it. That’s what my Mom used to say when I asked her “why”. There was no point in going any further. She had spoken. My father also advised to “cut your loses” when spending for repairs on an old car.
Rabbit holes are difficult to climb out of once you’ve gone done them. At this point, Lisa, if you haven’t already gotten a newly revised assessment of your LD’s prognosis for successful repair you may want to have a pro take a look and advise you on the wise course of action to take.
You’ve done a lot, so far. Professional advise may help you in making any decisions at this point. Best of luck to you and any other used LD owner. Like Joan said, RVs are expensive...start to finish.
Kent
Yes, buying an older rig carries risks. I can't speak for Lisa, but in her pre-purchase messages she made it clear that she was expecting to spend a significant amount of money on repairs and maintenance and had budgeted for that. She wasn't a stereotypical naive buyer.
But she got hit with multiple major, scary problems, one after another--transmission work, major brake work, propane leakage--plus a slew of less major issues, such as two new alternators. Finding competent technicians who didn't have an attitude problem made it that much more difficult... and doing all this while selling her house and moving out made it a complete nightmare.
Now she's "wondering if it will ever be able to go more than 10 miles or a month without something going wrong." You can't blame her for losing confidence, after all that's happened.
My dad used to say "getting old is not for sissies" and I think the same could be said for buying a motor Home , especially an older one. You have to be mentally and financially prepared to cope with the inevitable problems that are going to pop up as you and your motor home start falling apart in tandem. You both are going to start breaking down and going in for repairs and seeing doctors-mechanics more than you used to. Things will start sagging, blood-oil pressure won't be what it once was. Just have to take this stuff in stride and be glad your hear to complain about it while tooling down the road in your body-motorhome that could break down any minute, maybe even catastrophically. Carpe diem.
Once again I am not receiving notifications for replies, so had no idea there were a bunch of them.
I tried driving my LD to RV shop in San Leandro today (15 miles away). Got on freeway (using speedometer app on my phone), and the engine sounded like it was really straining though app measured only 38 mph! I got off freeway and the LD died at first stop light (had been driving fine until I got on freeway). Stuck on the street, tow truck came within 15 minutes (now i know exactly who to call and ask for!)
Turns out San Leandro RV does not do any engine work, ONLY RV stuff. Ugh. But they called to say they did a pressure teest and found the likely source of the propane smell- bad solenoid in the hot water heater. They also said the house battery is totally dead and probably shot and that's why the solar panels not charging. They were going to hook it up to a trickle charger to test it. He said the cables to the engine battery aren't bad, but the contacts are corroded and need to be sanded, and the battery isolater (?) was likely not good. He believes this may be the reason the battery went dead again despite the new alternator.
He's going to get back to me with an estimate, but initial number was ~$6-700. I am not holding my breath.
As for the tow- I asked the driver today if he ever undid the drive shaft to tow- he said no, as that would take much more labor and cost alot more, so they don't take it on the freeway, only city streets (which explains why it took him over an hour to arrive at the first RV shop that then turned him away!). Today I drove in the truck with him and we took city streets all the way. It was slow and very, very bumpy. My bladder was crying. (Sorry if that's TMI).
Does this mean that my vehicle is now probably fried from all the tows without d/c ing the drive shaft? Is that perhaps the reason for the bad freeway experience?
I feel screwed. And not in a good way.
Lisa
Good info on being towed.
When You Have to be Towed (http://www.prevost-stuff.com/towstory.htm)
Lisa,
I hope things improve for you!
Relay contacts get corroded and are cleaned by sanding or filing. Just like battery connections. The battery isolator could be a relay or a pair of diodes in and aluminum block.
My guess is you will be getting a new valve, Battery isolator , and coach batteries, for $700. Looks like a good price, $400 in parts plus labor.
The drive shaft removal for towing is they should. But even the Ford and Chevrolet operators manuals,if you still have one, usually lists the limits for towing with the drive shaft connected. Like less than 5 miles below 25 mph etc. The issue becomes cooling without a working oil pump in the automatic transmission and lack of air flow through the radiator.
In 2015 my 1991 Ford E250 with E4OD transmission was towed connected 50 miles on the bumper 50 mph at 35F, near freezing in the February 2015 Wyoming storms, without any apparent issues(AAA sub contract tow). And I asked about disconnecting. Now towed this way, the fluid flows back to the drive shaft the bands and clutches inside should be loose, so who knows. It is still working 20,000 miles later.
In Dec 2017 the 1991 was towed San Jose to Milpitas, 7 miles city and freeway 55 mph at 50F and AAA(Great America Tow) disconnected the drive shaft.
The 1991 rig's bigger issue is the Ford Ignition Module used with the EEC-IV engine Computer and the fuel pump electrical interconnection.
My 88 MB on a Ford E350 was disconnected when towed 75 miles from Hollister to Milpitas, 55 mph at 50F day. by a sub contract tow.
At this point; if the transmission still works, it survived. If it does not I hope it is warranty on the builder. ( 38 MPH Limited Issue).
My cousin and financial advisor, Guido, asked if it was insured against "fire, theft and accidents". He knows a guy who knows a guy...
My cousin and financial advisor, Guido, asked if it was insured against "fire, theft and accidents". He knows a guy who knows a guy...
When I was in my early twenties I worked at a campground out of Nevada City California as a caretaker one winter when logging was shut down. A neighbor turned out to be one Sonny Barger, president of Oakland chapter Hells Angels. He had a little cabin-hideout on forty acres right up the road from us. I met him along the dirt road one day when he and a friend were cutting firewood and got their saw pinched. I had my saw and cut them out and after that it was like I was his best buddy. (I later found out he was known for saying "Treat me good I'll treat you better treat me bad I'll treat you worse") and I definitely made his better list. His GF must have made his worse list because she showed up at our trailer one day naked in two feet of snow saying "Sonny kicked me out."
Anyway I had a motorcycle I wanted to sell but it had motor issues and I knew I wouldn't get much for it. Sonny graciously offered to have it stolen if I left it parked in town as soon as weather permitted. It was a very tempting offer!
Wow! Sonny Barger was a big name, back in the day. Hell's Angels were not to be trifled with then, or now.
In my youth, one of my acquaintances joined Hell's Angels. He came by with a couple of his new friends from the club to admire my Corvair Spyder. A few nights later the Corvair disappeared. It was not insured for theft.
Guido isn't really his name, but he does exist, sells insurance and does financial consulting and tax preparation. Miraculously, after a few months of mechanical problems on his boat, it sunk at the dock for a total loss, but fully insured. What a coincidence.
I have passed on the opportunity to have him do my financial consulting, tax preparation, or insurance.
Guido isn't really his name, but he does exist, sells insurance and does financial consulting and tax preparation. Miraculously, after a few months of mechanical problems on his boat, it sunk at the dock for a total loss, but fully insured. What a coincidence.
I have passed on the opportunity to have him do my financial consulting, tax preparation, or insurance.
Does Guido look something like the guy on the left?
OK, guys, let's give Guido a rest and get back on topic. Lisa needs our help.
Chris
OK, guys, let's give Guido a rest and get back on topic. Lisa needs our help.
Chris
Actually, I think I need Guido.
There was a derelict, non-op mid-80s TK for sale last month at the lot where we store our rig. The lot is contained within a largish .5-1 sq mile mature/late stage oil field dating from the original 1920s oil strikes.
There's a handful of quonset huts that are rented out to some cottage industry types involved in off-road design, mfg & sales. Basically, many of the guys behind current (fashion) trends in 4x4, MX, etc.
Well, I was over running the engine for its requisite 30 min/month routine, when one of the guys wandered over to say hello. Of course, what he was really interested in was getting my opinion about the TK for sale.
I gave him a brief run-down on my take to even get it running, but he headed me off by explaining that he simply wanted to flip it to some Burning man hipsters. He has a very tricked out off-road capable Sprinter plastered with his marketing logos, and he laughed when he mentioned that not a week goes by that some hipster dude asks him if he'd like to sell.
So, his idea was to get the LD on the cheap, do a wrap, but on some fake rim bolt wheels, and basically pimp it out as a pseudo-off road capable RV. His partner then came over and we were having a good time going thru the numbers and what it could possibly sell for.
I think in the end he figured if he couldn't get it for around $2-4k that it wouldn't be worthwhile to make any money off of it. Since your rig is actually running, and you're even closer to the Burning man venue (with perhaps even more hipster types), you might think about marketing it as a cool festival mobile.
Honestly, anyone older/more sensible who is actually thinking buying, fixing and using the rig will have much higher expectations. Maybe explore the greater fool market segment to see what types of bites you might get.
As for ongoing service, maintenance and repairs, it's a never ending cycle. Our rig actually runs unreal, but I'm still not satisfied with the return on the amount of time, money and effort we've put into it. For what I've done, it should be sparkling. So, mentally I've been reaching the end-of-the line and have been recently pestering Andy about information regarding the possibilities of following him over to the dark side.
That is not a bad idea. There is an inordinate number of people in this area with way more money than sense. I will see what happens this summer (if I keep it that long), and if I just can't justify it any longer, I'll start marketing it in July for the Burning Man crowd. Or maybe in April for those that have dreams of summer RVing along the coast.
With my current luck, the person I sell it to will probably drive it to Machu Picchu and back without a single problem AND get miraculous gas mileage.
To be honest I have to wonder what Lisa is complaining about. When you buy a motor Home of that vintage you pretty much have to expect all of the above that happened to her. When I bought mine in San Diego I brought it into an RV shop there and had much of what she had done before I even drove it home. If you wanted something that wouldn't need work you should have been prepared to spend at least 30k and even then you'll likely have many of the same issues. The other alternative is buy new which not all of us can afford or would do even if we could afford to do so. When I bought mine for 11k I assumed I could easily have 20k into it before all was said and done but I've been lucky so far and that number seems way out in the future. I originally budgeted 30k to do this motor home thing so even at my worst case scenario of 20k I feel like I'm way ahead. Don't buy something on the cheap and then whine because it doesn't perform like brand new.
To be honest I have to wonder what Lisa is complaining about. When you buy a motor Home of that vintage you pretty much have to expect all of the above that happened to her. When I bought mine in San Diego I brought it into an RV shop there and had much of what she had done before I even drove it home. If you wanted something that wouldn't need work you should have been prepared to spend at least 30k and even then you'll likely have many of the same issues. The other alternative is buy new which not all of us can afford or would do even if we could afford to do so. When I bought mine for 11k I assumed I could easily have 20k into it before all was said and done but I've been lucky so far and that number seems way out in the future. I originally budgeted 30k to do this motor home thing so even at my worst case scenario of 20k I feel like I'm way ahead. Don't buy something on the cheap and then whine because it doesn't perform like brand new.
Mike, I don't think Lisa needs to be chastised for her ill-advised LD purchase, a fact she now knows.
Lisa, perhaps it would be wise for you to give your plans to unload your mechanically challenged LD to unsuspecting buyers a rest. Our members don't need to know that. If you continue to have bona fide problems that you think we can help you with, we are here to help as best we can.
Chris
I wouldn't actually sell a vehicle I know to have major problems without disclosing that to the potential buyers. Thing is, I know that there are many people where I live that would buy something they like even if they know it will cost a lot in work because they either have the disposable income or think they can DIY.
As for my LD- just spoke with the shop and it seems there is finally some good news. The dead battery/inoperable speedometer/gas gauge/dashboard monitors, and likely the problem with acceleration on the freeway, were all due to a bad alternator fuse and a bad something or other fuse. Once replaced, all the electrical is working again. They also sanded the contacts and alternator now charging the battery fine. Apparently the dead fuse is what was causing the alternator not to charge the battery. So I was driving on just the battery the other day- it was not charging at all, which is why it just up and died again. I wonder if the shop that just replaced my alternator knew about that fuse? I'm betting that the alternator did not need replacement after all, just the fuses.
My house battery was totally dead, so they replaced it with two new batteries, and with everything now fixed, the solar panels are now charging the house battery like they should. Solenoid on hot water heater has been fixed, too, so the propane leak/smell should no longer be an issue. Total is at $745, which compared to other work that's been done, seems like a great deal.
In addition, the guy at the shop is setting aside time to do a walk through of the vehicle to educate me on the various systems and how to use them properly.
He did recommend getting a kill switch for the house batteries to avoid draining them when vehicle not in use. Price is about $45. That is doable but I'm not clear on why you would need a kill switch if everything is turned off. Is it just in case you have forgotten to turn something off?
At this point I'm not going to get too excited, but he did say that everything appeared to be working as it should. I will be cautious upon pick up and will try it out before attempting to drive home. But if it really finally works right, I'll be quite psyched. I'm having him look at the roof, too. So far I've had no leaks, but with all the "atmospheric rivers" we've been having in recent months, it would not be surprising to find a leak.
I'll keep you all posted.
Thanks,
Lisa
That's good news, Lisa. I still think you would greatly benefit if you could get your rig down to the Morro Bay GTG in March, or perhaps to the Live Oak gathering later this year. You would learn a lot more about your LD from a group of experienced LD'ers than any RV shop tech.
I will have to see how it's running and where i'm at with finding my next place to live, but the Morro Bay meet up is in the back of my mind. Though if the rain keeps up, I'm not driving anywhere!
Congratulations Lisa. You hung in there. Sounds like you are through phase one of buying an older motorhome. Expect more problems to crop up and take them on one at a time. When we bought ours I told my wife to be mentally prepared to face the fact that we just bought a money pit and that will have to be weighed and balanced with the fun factor. It's all part of the game when you buy any motorhome but especially so when you buy an older one. From this point on you will be dealing with one issue after another as age takes its toll. Took mine in yesterday to get looked over before our upcoming trip and found out I have a carrier bearing cracking up and a small oil leak. It's always going to be something and if that's more than you want to deal with right now would be a good time to sell when everything is working.
I second the suggestion to meet up with a Lazy Daze owners get together. Lots to learn there.
I bought an older LD knowing I can tackle most things (even new things I never saw before). I wanted to learn and make mistakes on an old one and not a brand new one - seeing what falls apart over time and how to make sure things re done right to fix it up is a great learning curve so that I will take care of a new LD so it will last a long time.
I am learning tons and I am much much smarter a year later at what to look for in buying a used LD than I was before, even after having read tons of posts. And yes, there was more things that needed attention (repairing, upgrading, etc.) than I originally guessed, but I expected that. It will be much improved when I am done for the next owner.
We are taking our first long trip to Morro Bay - we have only done a couple hour away trips so far and Morro Bay is more like 10 hours away, so our first real test of the engine.
Lisa, that does sound like good news. Hopefully the big problems are resolved. If you don't make it to Morro Bay this year, it happens on the weekend of daylight savings time happens.
Bring the dogs.
Joel
Hey all!
Just spent the afternoon at San Leandro RV. It appears they really did fix the electrical problems and the propane issue! All gauges now functioning AND everything in my RV seems to finally work! That includes a ceiling light and vent/fan that were previously inoperable even on shore power. They said the house battery had probably been so bad that it wasn't powering things correctly even when it was still charging. My dad thinks the two previously nonworking items may be connected to a different circuit, one affected by the bad fuses. Whatever the case, it all works, there is no propane smell, I now know much more about how to operate things in the RV, and I even got my porch light working! (Interesting, however, to find that the switch marked "porch" lights the step" and the one marked "entry" lights the porch. Hmm).
Dan the Man also showed me how to operate the awning (which appears functional), how to empty and fill the tanks, and other stuff.
Diagnosis, new fuses, cleaning.sanding battery /alternator contacts, replacing leaking hot water heater valve, two new house batteries, a house battery kill switch, new porch LED battery, and checking the roof and general state of the vehicle was right around $760. I drove it home in rush hour traffic on city streets and it was fine. The only hiccup was when I was parking and once again grazed a telephone pole. This time along awning. So maybe it's no longer functioning. I don't have the energy or heart to check. I really see why having a vehicle like this is NOT fun in the city. Between the traffic and the trees planted in the median, and no parking, it's a drag to drive.
I did not take it on the freeway, but everyone seems certain that the drag/noise/inability to accelerate was due to the battery not charging at all.
That said, Dan the Man suggested I take it for a night to a local park with RV facilities to try everything out. That was what I wanted to do, but didn't even know that the park he suggested allowed camping, let alone RVs. Now I'm really psyched!
Not sure I'm up for a drive to Morro Bay this soon, especially with yet another atmospheric river forecast for the coming week (no way am I ready to drive this on the freeway in driving rain!), but hopefully I can do something similar soon. I still have to get the seals on the windshield replaced (San Leandro RV doesn't do windows).
Oh, and Dan said a couple was in his shop the other day with a 2001 LD, blue and white. They commented on mine looking like it was in nice condition, and mentioned something about a Lazy Daze Club and Morro Bay! So who here saw my LD?!!
Lisa
I really see why having a vehicle like this is NOT fun in the city. Between the traffic and the trees planted in the median, and no parking, it's a drag to drive.
Lisa, I have never had any problem with my 31 IB in your city as it has never been there and never will. That's one solution.
I'm sure you looking for a new home that will fit yours in a wide side yard. Hope you find it soon.
Glad to hear things are looking up.
Joel
Lisa,
Now that everything is up and running, you may want to spend some time with a RV Driving instructor. I’m not sure of where you can find one in your area but they can do wonders on increasing your self confidence.
Personally I find our LD a breeze to drive in all kinds of traffic but I also spent several years driving a similarly sized Bob-Tail truck transporting pallets/skids of printed material through Los Angeles traffic at all times of the day. The LD is a piece of cake.
Congratulations on your successful repairs.
Kent
Lisa,
May I suggest a set of traffic cones. You can place them in any place you plan to park then you can aim at them. They are cheaper to replace then rebuilding your RV when a tree or mail box jumps into your path.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunnyglade-Collapsible-Traffic-Purpose-Reflective/
glen
Sounds like you finally found a RV tech that’s a keeper, hallelujah!
Lisa,
We were all pulling for you, even those of us that didn't post but followed your thread with interest. You received many excellent suggestions and are finally ready to take an adventure. Several wise people suggested shorter trips in known areas before venturing to Mexico, etc. Take their advice.
Gary
Thanks everyone.
I've become much more comfortable driving. Not sure if the cones would help as the main problem I have is understanding where the top part is in relation to objects around me. I've actually been parallel parking this thing pretty darn good. But I am usually so busy looking behind and next to the vehicle, that I forget to look up in the side view mirrors to see where I am in relation to trees and telephone poles. Some of the poles are not straight (like the one I brushed yesterday), and the street slopes down towards the curb, so even with my wheels 6-8" from the curb, the top of my RV can (and did) touch a telephone pole due to the incline and awning sticking out. In addition, many of the medians on some of the larger streets have trees growing on them that don't seem to be kept up, so just staying in my lane without getting brushed by a tree is not always possible. Then there are the many trees all around that are not trimmed that I can't park near, is most of the block where I'm currently residing.
I love trees and greenery, but it sure is a pain when it comes to driving this vehicle.
Anyway, new mystery- the ceiling fan and light that worked fine at the shop while not on shore power, stopped working again. I tried the light last night a while after i got home and did not turn on. Just went out and checked the kill switch and it was not on, so that is not the issue. Other lights work, and the panel shows the house battery charge as "good." I started the vehicle with no problem, and tried the light with engine running, but that made no difference.
Why are the light and ceiling fan (the light is near the ceiling fan FWIW), working only sporadically? And should I be concerned that the battery is going to die on me again?
Thanks,
Lisa
"...the main problem I have is understanding where the top part is in relation to objects around me."
Lisa
Have you ever heard the expression; GOAL?
In RV parlance it means "Get Out and Look"!
Try it, works for a lot of us. ;)
It sounds to me that you might have a short somewhere in the 12 volt system; most likely the line that powers the two things that intermittently lose power. The previous owner(s) might have drilled a hold somewhere damaging the 12 volt line leading to your devices that don't work. An experienced tech should be able to find the problem; intermittent ones are tricky to find. I shorted one myself in a boat I used to own. I didn't realize it at the time, but the symptoms were similar to yours until I remembered that I had mounted a cup holder months earlier. Mea culpa!
Gary
HEYYYYY!!!
I just wanted to write about a success - the other day I not only drove my LD on the freeway at 65mph without much anxiety, but today when I went to pick it up (got a new windshield, all underlying rust removed, etc.), I drove that baby home on the freeway, in the rain, during rush hour traffic! And not bumper to bumper rush hour traffic, but the worst, most dangerous kind where there are gaps to get up to speed, and then sudden, awful slowdowns. I did it all with my more anxious dog in the LD, and she not only curled up between the seats and slept, but I didn't even have much anxiety! I figure if I can drive this thing in one of the most congested, road rage areas of the country, in the rain, in rush hour, I should be pretty good to go anywhere (I witnessed two road rage incidents today).
I'm getting there, guys. I am getting there. Good thing, too, because I have 9 days to find a new home or I'll be living in my LD once the sale of my house closes (by April 15!)
Zoinks!
Lisa G.
Maybe time to rewrite the Topic as "Throw the towel in and head out"!
Congrats, and see you down the road.
Pat the dogs,
Joel
Lisa, a few suggestions:
Even though your rig is only 22', you might want to look into driving lessons: RV School (https://www.rvschool.com/) The closest location to the Bay Area is with an instructor in Auburn. Not cheap, but you will get behind-the-wheel instruction, practice, and many tips.
Know the dimensions of your rig; if you can't remember them, write these on a sticky or card and tape it to the dash. Pay particular attention to the total height of the rig.
Learn to use your mirrors; you're essentially blind without these, so if they're poorly adjusted to show what's to the sides and behind you, or they are coming 'un-silvered' (black spots) or there are other issues, replace them. Don't ignore the right side mirror; it is as critical as the left, particularly for spotting drivers who don't know how to merge, motorcycles who use the shoulder to pass you on the right, and drivers who are jonesin' to drive the right shoulder to cut into the traffic line to get to an exit before the other people.
Pay particular attention your speed and lane position when driving in construction zones, especially when there are trucks 'sharing' the space; some truck drivers are skilled, safety-conscious, and professional, but some are not.
As Steve suggested, GOAL is the mantra; when parking and/or maneuvering, getting out and looking to see the position of the rig in relation to obstacles will save the need for a lot of 'band-aids'.
Learn to drive '15 seconds' ahead (and to the sides and behind) to be always aware of what's around you, what's coming up alongside or from behind or in front of you. Constant vigilance and anticipation are the watchwords!
'Own' your lane; learn to position your rig with equal space between the center line and the shoulder. On a two-lane road, do not 'lane share', i.e., move to the far right of the lane to allow somebody to use part of your lane to pass you. This move creates a big risk of getting cut off or catching a wheel on the shoulder and losing control of the rig!
Obviously, pull over to allow following traffic to pass when it's safe; you should have adequate space and clear vision to pull off and get back on the road; never endanger yourself, your rig, or your pets by making a dumb move trying to be a 'nice guy'.
Check out unfamiliar roads or routes on Google maps, and inquire locally about conditions. Don't blindly follow a GPS, particularly if its software is not updated.
Keep the rig nose pointed to a clear exit when you park, overnight, and/or camp; never park in a position or location that would prevent a fast getaway in case of an emergency.
There are lots more 'tips', but you've experienced a lot of 'head poppers' over the months, so it's enough for now. ;)
Those are all great things to do and remember when operating your RV. Thanks for posting them Joan😁🚐
Keep the rig nose pointed to a clear exit when you park, overnight, and/or camp; never park in a position or location that would prevent a fast getaway in case of an emergency.
May I add before you drive in made sure you have a clear exit.
glen
I second Gary, there is something off in your 12v system. With good batteries they should be consistent.
We have an older rig and a lot of the electricity was not solidly connected - it got rattled around over the years and the wire connections were no longer solid, so it had intermittent shorts with a couple light fixtures/switches.
I would suggest opening up that one light and fan to look for the wires coming to the fixture (connected to the wires on the fixtures). And make sure they are solidly connected. If they are connected with a wire connector, what originally was put on for ours so likely yours, pull hard on the wires and confirm they don't move inside that wire connector, they are solid in there. If they move, replace the wire nut. Some, like Larry that works on trucks a lot, strongly suggests soldering the wires together before putting the new wire nut back on.
The fixture itself might be coming loose and not snug and tight anymore - wiggling the innards of the light slightly should tell you that - things should not wiggle. Some of ours were older and had too much wiggle and we have replaced them.
We didn't have any problems with loose fuses, but we did have loose breakers causing problems - again there should be no wiggle.
And as Gary said someone could have nicked a wire - we found one wire while working on our heater that had been bent back on itself tightly and left hanging in the cabinet and I think a drawer being pulled in and out had nicked it.