Winterized my 2017 MB in November - blow out method. Apparently, there was some water in the toilet's plastic water valve that the water line goes into. We left Michigan for Florida this past Monday. When I hooked up to the campsite water, water started leaking at the valve. After looking at a few Youtube videos, it looked like an easy replacement job. Until I looked at the "plumbing" behind the toilet. The Youtube videos had examples of a flexible hose going into the water valve that can be easily screwed off. It looks like Lazy Daze's "plumbing" is a lot more sophisticated - see attached picture. It appears that the toilet will have to be slightly removed in order to unscrew off the water line from the valve. Has anyone else replaced the toilet water valve?
Can't quite figure out the connections from your pic - a different angle might help. However, PEX has enough give you should be able to unscrew things and get enough room to remove the valve or toilet, whichever is needed.
Steve
Can't quite figure out the connections from your pic - a different angle might help. However, PEX has enough give you should be able to unscrew things and get enough room to remove the valve or toilet, whichever is needed.
Steve
I did try to unscrew the white "cap" on the valve, but because there was no "give" it wouldn't budge.
I've never trusted the blowout method for just this reason. Pink stuff throughout the system is peace of mind
I've never trusted the blowout method for just this reason. Pink stuff throughout the system is peace of mind
I have heard of too many toilet water valves damaged this way, adding a little antifreeze on top of blowing the system out is recommended.
Larry
Yes, I now realize the consequences of the “gamble” of the blow out method. But what I really need to know is if I’m correct in my assesment that in order to replace the valve, it looks like I’ll need to remove the toilet. I’ll call the Mothetship tomorrow.
Hi Glenn. Those two white fittings with the large 'paddle' fins on the outside are designed to be un-done by finger. Unscrew the one by the wall first, then loosen the one screwed into the toilet. That will allow that section of pipe to rotate out of the way. I'll call that an 'S' bend. With that 'S' bend removed and out of the way, you should be able to get a short screwdriver in to remove and replace the valve on the toilet. RonB
Yes, I now realize the consequences of the “gamble” of the blow out method. But what I really need to know is if I’m correct in my assesment that in order to replace the valve, it looks like I’ll need to remove the toilet. I’ll call the Mothetship tomorrow.
Didn't mean that as it may have sounded just kind of thinking out loud. Lots of people have told me blow out works but I've always been skeptical. I'm leaving my house pretty quick for an extended vacation and I'm going to blow it out first followed by pink stuff pumped through the system. I'll sleep better.
Glenn,
If you have internet access this YouTube may have the answer you seek. https://youtu.be/yrB2-WBWi88
If the valve/connection to which you refer is the main water line going into the back of the toilet then, yes, it appears you will need to remove the toilet to gain easy access to the part in question.
Best of luck.
Kent
Just a suggestion: if removal of the toilet is necessary to repair/replace parts, you might want to consider replacing the toilet seal while the fixture is off. Your Sealand manual should have the numbers for all of the replacement parts; there are several online suppliers of Sealand parts.
Hi Joan. Glenn's rig is about one and a half year old. And it appears to have enough room to work on that fitting. RonB
I’d be hard pressed to replace the connection on the back of our RB toilet without removing the whole thing. I can’t even imagine removing the hoses. It’s pretty tight back there as attested by these pics.
Tom Thumb-I am not.
Kent
Kent,
Believe it or not, your RB PEX piping configuration allows for a little more room than I have on my MB because you’re pictures have better views. I can’t get those views. But I don’t think the small cramped space is the real problem. It’s the T configuration of the piping that doesn’t allow enough play to unscrew those white nuts.
Glenn,
I imagine removing the water lines from the wall of our RB could be accomplished with a bit of effort 😖 (after removing the angled decorative cover) but after that I would still want to remove the toilet.
Removing some components is fairly straight forward without being up close and personal. Reassembly is another thing all together. That’s when I want to take my time and make sure everything “falls into place” correctly.
With all this, I’m really glad I don’t have to winterize our LD.
Kent
You might call Vince at the Mothership and get his take.
Could this freeze up issue be caused by not pushing down on the foot controlled water valve when blowing out the lines which would allow compressed air to go through the holes in the toilet... now I'm trying to remember if I did that last fall.... Frank
Glenn and Kent. I'm sure that the factory attached and tightened those white fittings with the toilet already in place. I'm sure that Vince will agree, that it is intended to be disconnected that way..
Yes Frank, while using air to blow out the lines, if you don't open the valve, water will remain in the lines and valve right there. When it freezes it expands and pops the valve and/or the pipes going to the valve. Best to run some antifreeze through the water lines after they are blown out. Some water, maybe just vapor will remain in the pipes. Later it can collect all in one place, and freeze. RonB
Could this freeze up issue be caused by not pushing down on the foot controlled water valve when blowing out the lines which would allow compressed air to go through the holes in the toilet... now I'm trying to remember if I did that last fall.... Frank
Definitely and I nearly made a similar mistake when I winterized my LD for the first time. Days later I remembered I hadn't run pink stuff through the toilet wash out hose because no other RV I've ever owned had one. Back to town I went to do so before the real cold weather set in. This is my first winter with my LD and I'm crossing my fingers I did everything right.
On a side issue a couple of people have said you should run pink through your system after blowing it out which makes me wonder why bother blowing it out in the first place? What am imissing here?
I called Vince. He said that the PEX pipe will swivel after unscrewing the white nut. I was able to remove and replace the cracked valve. All is good.