Help!! My dad is visiting and he was going to stay in my LD. I hooked it up to my electrical, which worked fine before, and now the fridge won't turn on and we can't get the stove to work. We tried both gas valves for the propane and I smelled gas really, really strong. Then we tried turning on stove and there was no gas coming out. Also found that 3 of the four burner knobs are completely stuck. I have no idea what's going on. A few weeks ago I went in and tried the fridge and it worked fine. Now nothing. The light for "auto" lights up and it goes to AC, but that's it.
What's more, since getting my LD back, the microwave has been flashing the clock, but the touch panel is unresponsive.
What is going on?! We need the gas so my dad can use the heat and the stove. And we need the fridge. Why is everything suddenly not working? How do I fix it?!
Hi Lisa, wondered how you and MH were; Well the comment "we tried both gas valves for the propane...." has me concerned. There should be only one gas valve at the tank. Closed tight, or all the way on (counter-clockwise) all the way. Another valve? Where would that be? Hmmm, The stove top has 3 stuck valves? So which one isn't stuck? The top burner gas control valves should all be fully clockwise, the oven fully clockwise at pilot off. The far left knob turns to click a piezoelectric igniter. There should be a visible spark at all three burners without any burners on. That you can smell gas means you should have some in the tank. Of course you need to use the piezo lighter knob when you turn on a burner, or you will have gas escaping into the kitchen from the burner. So is the LP gas detector working? It doesn't have an off switch, and it will kill your batteries in a few weeks if you don't have the MH plugged in to keep your batteries charged. Do your interior lights work when you aren't plugged in?
The microwave display blinking... well some need to have the reset(clear) button pressed an/or the clock set before they will work. At least it shows that you have 110V AC.
The refrigerator needs to have 12 v.dc from your batteries, or from your converter for the logic controls to work. The 110v.AC or gas are merely the source of heat for the refrigerator absorption cooler to work.
I wouldn't try to run the FAU space heater until you resolve that gas smell problem. Hope this helps. RonB
p.s. Merry Christmas anyway!
Hi, Ron has some good questions info.
You need to look at things one at a time to figure it out.
As Ron said the refrigerator needs 12v from the battery as well as 120v electricity from your hookup to run. However you don't need a working battery if your converter works (changes the 120v to 12v). Does the refrigerator light go on when you open the door? Testing other 12v items like lights and fans can confirm you are getting 12v to the rig.
Are other 120v items working? Can you plug something else into the microwave outlet and it works? The refrigerators supposedly have outlets they are plugged into (accessible from the outside panel to give an outside outlet). Does something else work plugged into that? Did you try turning breakers off and then back on (in the power center)? A voltmeter can help to test at various places to confirm electricity (and enough volts) are getting to the various outlets (house outlet, microwave outlet, refrigerator outlet).
Let us know how things are going.
Jane
You talked about two propane gas valves - do you have a "Y" splitter - like an extend a stay that lets you accept gas from two sources? I am guessing you have a removeable propane tank in your older LD and splitters are typically in the non-removeable tank. A picture would help lots.
Stove knobs - you are doing a push in and then turn, correct? Sometimes the simple things trip is up so I am asking just in case.
I am guessing in your older model you do not have self igniters on the stove burners. Ours we smell gas pretty quickly if a burner is turned on but doesn't have a flame. Is your stove the closest propane device to your tank? Occasionally we have to turn on the propane device closest to the propane tank and after a few minutes turn it off and try one further away.
As always be cautious about turned on but unlit propane appliances - good ventilation would help make sure there is not a build up of gas.
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone (https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS)
P.S. You said:
" We tried both gas valves for the
propane and I smelled gas really, really strong. Then we tried turning on
stove and there was no gas coming out."
You meant with the propane tank not connected to the LD (the hose to the LD disconnected or loosened up) and the valves open you smelled gas strongly, correct? When the tank valve is open but the hose is tightly attached to the LD you should not be smelling gas at the tank itself unless there is a leak in that area.
Jane
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone (https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/?.src=iOS)
Hi all!!
Merry Xmas!
So my dad got up bright and early and started fiddling with the LD. He has owned a large travel trailer, he's a general contractor and he has maintained all his own vehicles and trailers, so now my fridge and microwave are working. They are both on my home's electric via extension cord. We also figured out the propane based on help from a helpful contributor to the LD Facebook page. However, we still don't know what that red valve is. It's not on the tank itself, but rather a pipe that runs just over the tank on the upper left side. I have not found any pics that look like this online. Once he's done messing about, I'll take a pic and post it.
So we got the stove to light, but yes, turning on the gas valve results in at least an initial strong smell of gas at the tank. Freaks me out. My dad is doing a leak test right now with dish soap. This is why I waited for him to come visit to figure all the things out my LD. I woke up to find him sitting outside with a cup of coffee reading my LD's manuals like they were the morning paper.
As of right now, still no idea why the three other burner knobs are frozen. They look clean, but who knows.
So my dad just said that there were no leaks in the tank and he suspects it's the gas pressure regulator, but he can't figure out how to remove the cover. I told him I'd ask the helpful people one here. He said to mention that the bolts are already gone. Anyone have some info?
Here's a pic of that pipe with the red valve that is over the propane tank. My dad thinks it's a water pipe. Is he right?
Yes it looks like the drain valve to empty your fresh water tank.
Jody
"Here's a pic of that pipe with the red valve..."
Because it's PVC (plastic) it certainly is not related to the propane!
As to the regulator cover, notice that it is comprised of two halves with a seam in the center. They just snap together, use a screwdriver to pry them apart.
The red valve is definitely the fresh water tank drain valve.
The propane regulator's cover may have a couple of plastic pins holding it to the metal base.
Pry the pins out and then pop the cover off whatever way you can, it can be hard to take off .
I take a screwdriver and force it under the cover and start working it up and off, over the plumbing.
Older regulators do go bad and leak. The regulator has a diaphragm that ages and will eventually develops leaks.
Any rig over ten years old is a candidate for a bad regulator. Your LD's regulator is 27 years old, it could be time for a replacement.
On the valves that will not turn, I would spray the valve's shafts, where they enter the valve body, with silicone and let it penetrate for a while before trying to turn the handles.
Larry
"A few weeks ago I went in and tried the fridge and it worked fine. Now nothing. The light for 'auto' lights up and it goes to AC, but that's it."
Sounds as if you have 12 VDC (which is required to run the fridge, even on 120 VAC or propane). But just the same, I'd check the batteries and add water if necessary.
The fridge will take at least 4-8 hours to get cold, so the fact that you didn't feel coldness right away doesn't mean it isn't working. See how it does overnight.
I agree with those who've said that you probably need a new propane regulator. These aren't expensive ($40-$60). Since you smell propane at the tank when turning it on, I'd strongly recommend keeping it turned off until you can eliminate the leaky regulator or whatever it is.
Does the propane gauge read just past full in the pic?
HI All,
Thanks again.
So turns out that the fridge was working but it's silent so we didn't know until it cooled down. My dad found some corrosion on the fridge light and cleaned it off and now the light works fine. He also sprayed the burner knobs with WD40 and they all work, though the one that did not stick works without pushing it in for some reason. The other 3 all have to be pushed in to start up.
I got the regulator cover off and my dad did the soap test and found a pinhole in the regulator. So I have to get that replaced. Can I get that done at a propane vendor? Is it expensive?
Lisa
HI All,
Thanks again.
So turns out that the fridge was working but it's silent so we didn't know until it cooled down. My dad found some corrosion on the fridge light and cleaned it off and now the light works fine. He also sprayed the burner knobs with WD40 and they all work, though the one that did not stick works without pushing it in for some reason. The other 3 all have to be pushed in to start up.
I got the regulator cover off and my dad did the soap test and found a pinhole in the regulator. So I have to get that replaced. Can I get that done at a propane vendor? Is it expensive?
Lisa
Lisa, perhaps you should hire a live-in mechanic. :) Glad your problems have been diagnosed.
Chris
Well latest update- my dad and I went over all the compartments and stuff on my RV and discovered that: 1) the generator door is STILL stuck even though it's one of the things that shop was supposed to fix; and 2) the wastewater hoses are missing. They were stored in one of the compartments when I got the RV, and rest assured I did NOT touch or otherwise move them. So the shop must've removed them.
I called the shop and he gave me some excuse about the door that the frame had been bent and they straightened out the doors "as best they could." No matter that I PAID them to make the compartment doors work again and was told they do work.
As for the hoses, they tried to play that off but said they'd look for them. Uh, yeah.
I am really pissed. That shop is a joke. And the owner had the nerve to lay a trip on me about the review I posted about my experience, all of which was 100% true. Ugh. Thy should be ashamed of themselves. At the very least they should be a bit more careful when dealing with a lawyer.
I wish there were more options for RVs around here.
Lisa G.
Hi, Lisa--
So sorry to hear about your lousy shop experience. I agree that finding reputable service can be a challenge--especially for those of us away from the Mothership or the parts of the country where travelers flocking in greater numbers mean more service options. I find it frustrating to deal with both my lack of knowledge (though everything is an opportunity to learn something new) & those who see $$ because I'm a woman :P --"At the very least they should be a bit more careful when dealing with a lawyer."--hope you gave them a learning experience.
I fell into a good mechanic about forty miles away, already knew a good body guy about thirty miles away, & finally got some recommendations on a guy about forty miles away who I really like for the coach.
Current issue is finding someone to figure out the TV (is it the Jack antenna or the coax or a connection?? :P & how do I set up the Direct TV without having to pay extra for the rig--the folks from whom I bought her put on a Winegard Trav'ler forDirect TV & said they just took their receiver from the house to the rig, but I've had no joy & need someone around here who knows electronics). One place was obviously trying to sell me a new system--claimed things are so cheap these days that nobody learns how to repair/it costs more to service something than just replace--fine if i need a new antenna, but not if it's just a connection or the coax that doesn't require a whole new system :P .
This is a really responsive forum when somebody gives a shout out for help or recommendations, but I long for a satellite location of LD Wizards 'R Us in this part of the world :D (in lieu of Chris's suggestion of "a live-in mechanic. :) "). Wish I still had my dad--for both the knowledge & the bonding time--good for you both. :)
I like the idea of a database/some sort of listing where folks can name the places where they've had good service & places to avoid, though I'm not technoliterate enough to do that.
Thanks for the update. Also, don't know your location, but give a thought to the Ladeze gathering--a great gaggle of gals with whom to howl at the moon during an eclipse (yeah, I'm mixing fowl & mammalian species, but I like the alliteration ::) ). I've not been able to make the calendar work for a couple of years, but so much knowledge & warm spirits (plus the "spirits" around the campfire ;) ).
Give a shout if you're ever coming through north Missouri, for either a meet-up, or if you want a place to light while you see the area (I'll extend the invitation I've given on this site before--I've got a farm just outside of Chillicothe that's available for boondocking). Happy trails with your baby.
Lynne
Lynne
Hi, Lisa--
So sorry to hear about your lousy shop experience. I agree that finding reputable service can be a challenge--especially for those of us away from the Mothership or the parts of the country where travelers flocking in greater numbers mean more service options. I find it frustrating to deal with both my lack of knowledge (though everything is an opportunity to learn something new) & those who see $$ because I'm a woman :P --"At the very least they should be a bit more careful when dealing with a lawyer."--hope you gave them a learning experience.
I fell into a good mechanic about forty miles away, already knew a good body guy about thirty miles away, & finally got some recommendations on a guy about forty miles away who I really like for the coach.
Current issue is finding someone to figure out the TV (is it the Jack antenna or the coax or a connection?? :P & how do I set up the Direct TV without having to pay extra for the rig--the folks from whom I bought her put on a Winegard Trav'ler forDirect TV & said they just took their receiver from the house to the rig, but I've had no joy & need someone around here who knows electronics). One place was obviously trying to sell me a new system--claimed things are so cheap these days that nobody learns how to repair/it costs more to service something than just replace--fine if i need a new antenna, but not if it's just a connection or the coax that doesn't require a whole new system :P .
This is a really responsive forum when somebody gives a shout out for help or recommendations, but I long for a satellite location of LD Wizards 'R Us in this part of the world :D (in lieu of Chris's suggestion of "a live-in mechanic. :) "). Wish I still had my dad--for both the knowledge & the bonding time--good for you both. :)
I like the idea of a database/some sort of listing where folks can name the places where they've had good service & places to avoid, though I'm not technoliterate enough to do that.
Thanks for the update. Also, don't know your location, but give a thought to the Ladeze gathering--a great gaggle of gals with whom to howl at the moon during an eclipse (yeah, I'm mixing fowl & mammalian species, but I like the alliteration ::) ). I've not been able to make the calendar work for a couple of years, but so much knowledge & warm spirits (plus the "spirits" around the campfire ;) ).
Give a shout if you're ever coming through north Missouri, for either a meet-up, or if you want a place to light while you see the area (I'll extend the invitation I've given on this site before--I've got a farm just outside of Chillicothe that's available for boondocking). Happy trails with your baby.
Lynne
Lynne
I like the idea of a database/some sort of listing where folks can name the places where they've had good service & places to avoid, though I'm not technoliterate enough to do that.http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29329.0 Lynne, there is this thread to which not much has been added recently. Chris
"I like the idea of a database/some sort of listing where folks can name the places where they've had good service & places to avoid, though I'm not technoliterate enough to do that."
http://www.lazydazeowners.com/index.php?topic=29329.0 Lynne, there is this thread to which not much has been added recently.
Chris
HI folks,
Not sure why I don't get notifications of replies half the time.
So I'm at the end of my rope with everything right now and just about read to put all in storage and try my hand at an RV road trip. But first i have to figure out where to get my propane tank regulator replaced. I have no idea where to find this. I've done a search for propane repair in my area, but I find only propane refill places, and not many of those. Nothing indicates repairs. Where do I go for this in the San Francisco Bay Area? And preferably the East Bay, somewhat close to Oakland?
Lisa
You might try this place. (They don't seem to have a website.)
S & S Rv - RV Repair - 900 Brookside Dr, Richmond, CA - Phone Number - Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/biz/s-and-s-rv-richmond-3)
On edit: I looked at the photo of your propane tank (reply #5 in this thread.) I can't say, but a shop may well decline to replace the regulator due to the amount of rust on the tank, not knowing if this condition affects the overall integrity of the system.
YMMV.
"On edit: I looked at the photo of your propane tank (reply #5 in this thread.) I can't say, but a shop may well decline to replace the regulator due to the amount of rust on the tank, not knowing if this condition affects the overall integrity of the system. "
Lisa, would it be possible to have a new tank and regulator installed at a regular RV repair emporium? If you want to go on a road trip, but not have the use of your propane system for a short while, maybe you could make arrangements to visit an RV repair place in an area outside of the Bay Area? What about the Camping World in Fairfield? Is it still there?
Maybe others can suggest a competent RV repair somewhere with more location choices for you, if you are willing to spend a day traveling, and then a day or three at the facility. If you can make contact with an appropriate facility, they could have the tank and regulator ready for you when you arrive.
Even if this procedure took four days (a day to get there, two days in situ (so to speak), and then another day to get back home), it might be a fun experience - even if just for the non-hassle aspect of driving around the crowded Bay Area streets. Should your schedule allow you to go on from the repair place for a few days of relaxation . . . all the better.
Virtual hugs,
Judie
•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•~•
You might try this place. (They don't seem to have a website.)
S & S Rv - RV Repair - 900 Brookside Dr, Richmond, CA - Phone Number - Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/biz/s-and-s-rv-richmond-3)
OMG!!!! Thank you!!! I do not know why this place has NEVER come up in my google or Yelp searches. And believe me, I have done several. I just called and the guy was nice and, like my dad, said external rust is not an issue. WHY DID I NEVER SEE THIS PLACE BEFORE?!! SO MUCH easier to get to than San Jose, and something about the guy seemed real. Not some fake ass salesperson trying to reel me in with how much they love Lazy Daze and blah blah blah.
I am really hoping i just found my RV place.
thank you thank you thank you!!
Lisa G.
What about the Camping World in Fairfield? Is it still there?
Thanks Judie. I had just gotten off the phone with an RV place in Fairfield when I saw the post about S&S. The one in Fairfield was booked for weeks and the drive is terrible due to traffic.
I'm hoping that S&S is my place. I shall find out next week. He had a cancellation on Thursday so has time for me. I am getting ready to sell my house and looking for a place to live between houses, so don't have much time for a road trip. I'm also in a hurry to get the propane fixed and make sure everything runs smoothly because I am seriously considering living in my RV while between homes. All the rentals I've seen are so, so overpriced for the size and condition that I am having difficulty with the idea of paying more in rent than I pay for a mortgage and yet only getting half the space and no amenities. NO thanks. But I want to sell my house now before the housing market tanks. So it's important that to me to at least have the option to stay in my RV. Not ideal, but in some ways beats paying $2700+ month for a 1 bedroom apartment with a lousy landlord.
Just a FYI: Camping World in Fairfield closed several years ago; there's a location in Rocklin, but it's also a CW sales lot; I don't know where repair service or store customer RV parking is. Reviews of this facility are not positive.
I have no personal experience with this CW, but acknowledge my hearty dislike of CW as a whole. YMMV, as always.
It's been over twenty years since we would pull out of Sunnyvale at ten o'clock at night and head for Fairfield to spend the first night of a trip. Never had any work done there, but it was a fun place to spend that first night, having escaped during the lighter "rush hours" of ten to midnight!
We had a reliable repair shop about 3/4 of a mile from our house, so we could drop off/pick up by walking a pleasant route amongst the open land and greenhouses. Then came the overpass and off ramps, tall buildings housing "tech" companies, and other destructive changes.
The pain of getting out of (and back into) town in our Lazy Daze is one of the main reasons we no longer live there. I know that's not always an option, but my blood pressure dropped considerably upon removal from all that tension!
Virtual hugs,
Judie < -- glad to be gone from Silly Cone Valley
The Camping World that was in Fairfield did close... but reopened farther up the road in Vacaville.
Vacaville Camping World - RV Dealer, Service Center and Gear (https://rv.campingworld.com/dealer/san%20francisco-california-vacaville?scpc=moz&utm_source=moz&utm_campaign=directory&utm_medium=organic)
The place I called in Fairfield was called Cordelia RV. They have a service department but take their customers first. Thankfully S&S much closer and can take my RV next week. The guy estimated $80 to replace my registration, which is roughly same as another place I called.
I suggest having the shop do a LPG system leak test after installing the regulator.
"Thankfully S&S much closer and can take my RV next week."
In matters pertaining to LP I always consult my local bulk propane dealer. Either he will have valuable advise or will actually do the work required. Nothing like listening to the horse's mouth! ;)
"In matters pertaining to LP I always consult my local bulk propane dealer. Either he will have valuable advise or will actually do the work required."
----
I get propane fills at propane dealers/suppliers, but have found none, at least in my local area, that are willing to perform repair/replacement services on the LPG systems on RVs. A while back, I did ask my local fill outfit a "test question" on where to have a leak test and/or a regulator change done; when the answer was, "Camping World" (and another place that I wouldn't do business with), I knew that while the fill guy was competent, I was much better off doing my own research to find any other needed service! ;)
As ever, YMMV.
I hope you don't run into problems changing the regulator, I changed one on a 1990 LD that had an older model of regulator. with different dimensions. It required a creative installation.
Propane regulator change | Flickr (https://www.flickr.com/photos/lwade/sets/72157679873233630/with/32879307285/)
Larry
Interesting point about the old-style regulator. Also, I'd request that the shop install a regulator from Marshall Controls (used to be called Marshall Brass) instead of the Camco regulator.
Also, I'd request that the shop install a regulator from Marshall Controls (used to be called Marshall Brass) instead of the Camco regulator.
Absolutely !
Larry
"A while back, I did ask my local fill outfit a "test question"..."
Since I have patronized my local bulk LP dealership for several years I have established rapport with the tech who normally fills my tank. He has expressed appreciation and interest in my LD. When I broached the subject of adding an ExtendAStay fitting, plus an additional regulator to feed a line under the coach to where I connect to my BBQ, his response was "I can do that.". And so it was done. Recently I was serviced by a different employee who remarked what a neat installation that was. Little did he know that it was done by his co-worker. ;D
Steve--
Thx for that suggestion. I fill at the local MFA Co-Op...even if no one there can/will do the work should I add a cat heater, they will know who to recommend here in town.
Lynne
I called a couple propane places around here (there aren't many), but they not only did not do repairs, they did not have anyone to refer me to.
Hey all, I just pulled into S&S RV in Richmond, CA. I got here 30 minutes late and the guy is looking for replacement regulator as mine is the original and obsolete. So far I think this is the right place for my RV repair needs. Right off the bat he noticed an issue that, though obvious after he mentioned it, I hadn't noticed but Sturken auto should have ( seals on windshield coming off on corners!). Unfortunately he doesn't have the two hours he requires to do a full inspection, but I think I'll be coming back soon for that. This guy hardly talks and just seems to know what he is doing without all the b.s. of the other place.
I feel like i got totally played at Sturken and am going to have to file a small claims complaint for the hoses that went missing that they claim never to have touched, as well as for some of the work they charged me for but which did not actually fix the problems.
I don't understand why this place never came up in my searches, but glad for the suggestion.
Lisa--
Glad to hear you found a place that feels like good fit for you.
I discovered I had a propane problem just before leaving for Ladeze a few years ago. I'd filled at MFA as I prepped for the trip, & the idiot light over the stove alerted me to what I guessed was a leak; MFA confirmed the regulator was the problem, & could have done the repair before I left, but had no RV parts. A shout-out on LDO for a recommendation in the Denver area (I was stopping through there to visit family) & Nancy McKenna to the rescue with a referral in the Denver metro. AAA Propane in Wheat Ridge is in my list of LD reference info because they didn't just fix it, but educated me about what they were doing, even though I will never attempt such a project.
Keep at it--you're learning so much, & will have such a great time with your LD.
Lynne
Yeah, I think this guy is the one.
He said my tank had been overfilled and now I have to go to a propane place to have them release some of it or run my heater for a long time, though he said that running the heater is not the best way to do it. That was my idea because I don't want to deal with going to a propane place since they are all in funky industrial areas.
I just wish this guy had more availability. Next open time is Feb. 12. Frankly I'm afraid of what he'll find when he does his inspection, but the fact that he said he needs at least 2 hours to do it and that he checks everything from roof to tires, instills in me further confidence that this guy knows his sh*t. Plus he took the time to look at the leak I've been worried about that Sturken didn't bother to mention and claims not to have seen though they had her FIVE MONTHS.
Moral of the story- go with the quiet guy that knows his crap and don't buy into the overly friendly "I have an LD, too!" saleswoman that proceeds to ignore you AFTER getting your LD in the shop.
I'll update once the inspection is done.
How do you know the propane tank is overfilled just wondering.....
I assume with a gauge?
Overfull if liquid comes out of the vapor vent valve instead of vapor. RonB
Overfull if liquid comes out of the vapor vent valve instead of vapor. RonB
Ah! Thanks, yes, that reminded me of what he said- there was oil leaking out of regulator. He said that was not good and indicative of overfilling. Not sure if that was his only clue, but he said was way too full and that propane places will often do that to make more money. Told me next time I get it filled to tell them not to fill more than 3/4 full. I did't have this filled, though. It's been full since i got the RV last year.
If I remember right, OPD requirements for ASME tanks on RVs didn’t become law until the late 90s, so a 1991 model would not have an overfill protection device to prevent filling past the 80% level.
Have them replace it with an OPD valve and you won’t have an issue going forward.
I spent some time in the LD tonight testing out the propane appliances and trying to reduce the propane in the tank. First thing I noticed is that when I turned on the propane tank, no smell! Good sign!
Ran the heater for about 20 minutes and it sure does warm the place up. I might have to hang out in there on colder nights. All the burners on the stove now work fine, and the fridge started cooling down right away when I put it on propane.
Only thing I could not seem to start was the oven. Not sure how I'm supposed start it. I turned the knob to "pilot" and pressed the ignite button, but nothing seemed to happen. I tried the ignite button several times, but nothing. I also turned the oven knob up to different temperatures and tried the ignite button, but nothing. Am I doing something wrong?
As an aside, I also turned on the generator. Had to start it up a few times before it would stay on, but then it was fine and I figured out how to set the clock on the microwave.
Once I get that oven working, I'm set. My dream of making pizza while in the middle of nowhere will finally be obtainable.
Is there any way to set up a wifi network in an RV that works almost anywhere? I want to watch netflix while eating my pizza in the middle of a national forest.
Serious about the wifi. Anyone?
Lisa G.
Lisa you said, “Only thing I could not seem to start was the oven. Not sure how I'm supposed start it. I turned the knob to "pilot" and pressed the ignite button, but nothing seemed to happen. I tried the ignite button several times, but nothing. I also turned the oven knob up to different temperatures and tried the ignite button, but nothing. Am I doing something wrong?”
The piezo starter for your stove only works for the cook top burners. It does not light the oven burner (unless you have an oven I am not familiar with).
To start the oven you will have to kneel down next to the oven with the oven door open. Looking below the oven shelf you will see the burner (just like the one in your house). Toward the back along the burner array there will be a small gas outlet for the pilot light. You will need to light the pilot with a long bar-b-que lighter.
Turn the oven to pilot (I use my right hand) and press on the knob until it moves toward the back of the oven (you will need to keep the knob depressed with your hand it will spring back to its normal position if you release the knob).
Have the lighter in your other hand and try to have it lit by the time you depress the oven knob (pressing on the knob allows gas to flow toward the pilot light). Once you have the knob depressed and the lighter lit place the lit lighter at the pilot light. Once you get the pilot light lit you will need to keep the knob pressed down for a minute (I usually hold the knob down for about 90 seconds-this allows the coil in the gas valve to warm up enough to allow it to remain open once you have released the knob).
Once the pilot has been going for 60-90 seconds release the knob and turn the knob toward your desired temperature. (Going the opposite direction will extinguish the pilot and you’ll have to start the process all over again-ask me how I know 🤪). At that point the burners should light up the burner ring. If it doesn’t then maybe the pilot light went out. Take a look.
It’s an awkward thing-lighting the oven but that’s just what you have to do every time you want to use the oven. Once you turn the oven off the pilot light goes out until you go through the steps again.
Some of us use a pizza stone in the oven for making pizzas. They help distribute RV oven heat more evenly.
You may find a video on YouTube for RV oven lighting.
Good luck lighting your oven. After Black Tank cleaning, lighting the oven is my least favorite thing to do. 😖
Kent
Thank you. I was wondering if I had to actually light it. Sounds the same as lighting the heater in my home when the pilot light goes out (which has been somewhat frequently of late). But I really dislike the idea of having to reach into the oven and light it when there is propane pouring in. It sure would be nice if they had an igniter for the oven.
Lisa,
Here is a YouTube on RV oven lighting.
https://youtu.be/1Vw6Fr7-7fs
Good luck.
Kent
I think they do it this way as a safety measure. There really isn’t much propane going to the pilot area as you press the knob. If you don’t light it and you release the knob, the gas shuts off.
Also, by the time you turn on the burner you have already removed your hand from the oven because the pilot was lit a minute before.
Kent
Hi Lisa; On my older 1999 oven you just need to turn it to pilot, That turns on the gas to the pilot, and you don't need to push it on. I can see why they changed that, in newer ovens, to require pushing it to keep gas flowing to the pilot for 90 seconds. Once lit, and the thermocouple is hot, the pilot will stay on without pushing the knob in. Once you light the oven pilot, you can use the oven. When done, turn the knob back to pilot and leave it on. The next time you want to use the oven, the pilot is still on. You don't need to relight it each time you use the oven. If you are home, and won't be needing the oven for a few days (weeks, months) then turn the knob off, and next time you will need to light it again. It uses very little gas (itty-bitty) flame, and an insignificant amount of CO produced. I think that is why there isn't an igniter. I would prefer one just for the oven, but didn't come on mine.
Yeah, no Wi-Fi. It has a limited range, a couple of hundred yards, depending on whether the campground has it. The speeds I've seen are barely enough to get an e-mail through once in a while. Streaming is pretty much out of the question, unless you are the only one in camp. That is where bringing your own movies with you, on DVD or flash drive. Some campgrounds have cable (extra cost in some). Satellite TV...many threads on LDOF in the past about that, lots of $$$$.
And of course no heating the RV with the oven. Residual heat after cooking is ok, flame off. Keep a roof vent cracked open 1/4" while cooking. Your CO alarm will remind you, but is really tough on the pets. RonB
Looked at my smoke alarms. I believe they may be the original! I have to get both smoke and CO2 alarms. Do I need a special size or is regular household size ok? I am sure I need a new fire extinguisher, too, as the one next to the door also looks original.
Lisa
Lisa,
Check out Mobile Internet Resource Center - Mobile Internet Resource CenterMobile... (https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/) for wifi. They are pros at this stuff. They suggest using cellular data. Get an unlimited plan that doesn't include hard caps and you'll be set for Netflix and pizza. 8)
Hi Lisa: That would be Carbon MonOxide, specifically CO. Dangerous because it's looking for another oxygen atom, no matter where it finds it. Your hemoglobin blood cells bind to it, and then you suffocate. Not much need for Carbon Dioxide, CO2, detectors. (just being picky). Your smoke alarm and CO alarm have dates on the back, I'm hoping they are newer. Use the test buttons, check to see if they work. Keep the batteries changed. If you don't have a propane detector near the floor, get one. The fire extinguisher, usually dry powder, has a gauge, or a pin you push in. If the pin doesn't pop out on its own or the needle on the gauge isn't in the green, you need a new one.
Another maintenance item. The dry powder settles to the bottom and packs down tight because of driving vibration. about once a year I get my trusty rubber mallet, turn the extinguisher upside down, and whack it a few times. This loosens the powder inside. You can feel it move around when you shake it. That way it will actually work, if you need it.
My motorhome carries a Foam (unavailable except at great expense anymore), baking soda, Halon (illegal anymore), dry powder (Costco), and Tundra AF400 (Halotron?) extinguisher. Hopefully I'll never need any of them. RonB
Is there any way to set up a wifi network in an RV that works almost anywhere? I want to watch netflix while eating my pizza in the middle of a national forest.
Serious about the wifi. Anyone?
Do you own a smartphone, if so, most have a built-in WiFi hotspot.
Look under 'Settings' to turn it on. There are other ways to have Wifi , this is the simplest and cheapest way to get started.
Many of us use a cellular amplifier, with a rooftop antenna, to boost weak signals when we are ordering pizza in the forest.
They start at $200, for a basic setup.
Amazon.com: weBoost Drive Sleek 470135 Cell Phone Signal Booster for Your... (https://www.amazon.com/weBoost-Drive-470135-Signal-Booster/dp/B073V5S3T7/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1548660117&sr=8-1&keywords=weboost+drive+sleek+4g+cell+phone+booster+kit+-+470135)
https://www.weboost.com
You will find that streaming will blow though your monthly data allotment quickly.
Larry
Do you own a smartphone, if so, most have a built-in WiFi hotspot.
Look under 'Settings' to turn it on. There are other ways to have Wifi , this is the simplest and cheapest way to get started.
Many of us use a cellular amplifier, with a rooftop antenna, to boost weak signals when we are ordering pizza in the forest.
They start at $200, for a basic setup.
You will find that streaming will blow though your monthly data allotment quickly.
Ah! That was what i was looking for. I have 10G of data allotment and rarely use even half. I was looking for something that would allow me to harness my data for a wifi network that I could then use for my laptop. I know it's possible to use data directly with laptop, but it's a hassle and in the past i have not found it very reliable. If I ever do use my LD as a mobile office, as originally planned, then I will need to have some kind of wifi network to use my laptop and printer. But right now it's much more important to be able to stream my shows while in the middle of nowhere. That's very important.
If a data signal can be found in the forest, will Amazon deliver?
.
If a data signal can be found in the forest, will Amazon deliver?
Amazon needs an address.
Maybe in the future, an Amazon's drone will make deliveries out in the boonies.
Larry
Doh! I just turned on mobile hotspot and I guess it's been a while since I tried using that feature (and at least 2 phones ago). I didn't realize how easy it is now! Only thing is that I get almost NO signal in my own home. Yes, I live in Oakland, CA on a hill and have a major carrier. I just have crap luck with things like this. But I'm moving soon. I think that booster would have been very helpful to have in my house.
Doh! I just turned on mobile hotspot and I guess it's been a while since I tried using that feature (and at least 2 phones ago). I didn't realize how easy it is now! Only thing is that I get almost NO signal in my own home. Yes, I live in Oakland, CA on a hill and have a major carrier. I just have crap luck with things like this. But I'm moving soon. I think that booster would have been very helpful to have in my house.
Boosters can be used indoors, using a 120-VAC wall wart power supply. The antenna does need to be outside, as high as possible
Larry
Your reception in Oakland sounds like good practice for reception in the boonies.
I live in the foothills and sometimes have to go to the park to get a good signal.
As they say in real estate: location, location, location.
Joel
*****
"I have 10G of data allotment and rarely use even half."
Keep a close watch on your usage. Reading emails and browsing websites like this don't take a lot of bandwidth. But streaming video can gulp bandwidth at an appalling rate. If you watch Netflix a lot, you could find yourself out of data (or paying hefty overage fees!) in as little as a week.
I have an unlimited plan. I hit 10G often without ever streaming video. Justs few images at full resolution, tad of news reading, bit of web browsing and updating email not mention a few texts 10G becomes very small bucket.
If you plan on using cell phone data is pays to do a lot on homework before you hit the road. If I was advising you I'd frist get a good handle your monthly use then buy a plan based on that. Buy the phone and plan separately. The carriers sell alot of smoke and mirror plans that are designed to remove maximum money from your wallet.
Nobody but you can determine what your daily use will be.